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Hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail Day by Day


Wired

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For many backpackers, thru-hiking a major long trail just isn’t a realistic option. Not everyone can pause life, quit their job, and leave their family and friends behind for half a year to hike a long trail. Even if they could, not everyone has the mental and/or physical stamina to enjoy such an arduous task over multiple months. Maybe you’re an aspiring to thru-hiker, but feel like you need more experience before committing to such a long endeavor. If you fall into any of these categories, or maybe have put the idea of thru-hiking on the back burner, I’m here to tell you that there is still a complete thru-hike experience out there for you! The 173 mile Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) is the perfect solution!

Hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail Day by Day

To give an idea of my perspective, I’ve hiked over 10,000 miles along long distance trails, and the 173 miles spent on the TRT are some of the most memorable. Having already experienced hiking’s Triple Crown (Pacific Crest Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Appalachian Trail), I can honestly say that I came into the TRT a bit jaded with few expectations. My impression of the TRT was that it would be a redundant walk around the same lake for a week or two. Fifty miles of which, I’d already done as it overlaps with the Pacific Crest Trail. I planned the TRT (with two friends of mine from the area) more to fill time between two other long hikes, and was more excited about spending time with my friends than the trail itself. Don’t get me wrong, I knew it would be fun because I love backpacking, but I didn’t expect it to be as great as it was. What a wonderful surprise!

A Hike on the Tahoe Rim Trail

The 173 mile Tahoe Rim Trail offers the opportunity for a shorter thru-hiking adventure.

Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) Logistics and Overview

To start off, there are many pros to the TRT for logistical purposes. As a loop hike, it’s simple to park at a trailhead and return to that same trailhead at the end of the hike. No shuttle is needed, but there are also public transit options if you are not using a vehicle. If something happens and a hiker needs to exit sooner than planned, there are many exit points that will eventually lead to frequently used trailheads and a possible hitch from day hikers, mountain bike riders, or equestrians. Another unique advantage of the TRT is that many access points also allow for caching of water (and food if needed) in stretches that are relatively dry with significant gaps between water sources. All of this access to civilization, and yet the trail still provides a great balance with solitude and scenery. Perfect for someone testing out their thru-hiking skills for the first time.

Our Trip on the TRT Day by Day

What follows is a brief overview of each day of our hike to get a feel for this as a thru-hike and why I recommend it. By the end of the hike, we (myself aka Wired and my friends Christy aka Rockin’ and Nancy aka Why Not) felt like we had experienced a microcosm of what we do on a long trail over multiple months. It was wonderful! Note a few things. Mileage is included as a reference, but not recommended for all hikers. Each hiker should do mileage that in their personal comfort range. Even as a conditioned thru-hiker, I’d have enjoyed a slower pace to really take this trail in more completely. We chose to go counterclockwise and begin at the Kingsbury South Trailhead. This would allow us to see more PCT hikers by hiking against the grain when the two paths overlap. There are multiple trailheads to access the trail. It’s all up to personal preference where you choose to start/end and which direction you choose to go. We started fairly early in the season on June 2nd on a low snow year, so it may not be advisable to start that early on in other years with a higher snowpack.

East Side of Lake Tahoe - Hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail

The Tahoe Rim Trail keeps things interesting and takes hikers through scenery that's always changing.

Day 1: Oh How I’ve Missed You (10.1 miles)

After having just spent a couple months along the Hayduke Trail in the desert of S Utah and N Arizona, it was like a reawakening to be on the Tahoe Rim Trail. Fresh air, a cool light breeze, a beautifully winding blazed trail, amazingly large trees, and a reunion with good friends. We even got a glimpse across Lake Tahoe at what lied ahead with some snowcapped mountains.

Day 2: Lakeview Hiking (23.5 miles)

A day of beautiful views of Lake Tahoe to our west as we hiked high above the lake (most the trail is well above the lake) on the east side. One of my favorite views of the hike was a ridge walk along North Canyon with views of Lake Tahoe and Marlene Lake. Expansive views with low lying clouds in the distance that would build over the next 24hrs. Off a friend’s recommendation, we took a side trip to Sand Harbor Overlook. Well worth the effort for that view at the end of the day!

Day 3: Rockin’ Gets Her Wish (20.2 miles)

Threatening clouds had moved in overnight and loomed all morning as we descended to the flower filled Tahoe Meadows. Rockin’ mentioned that she’d like a bit more of a challenge on this hike given the wonderfully clear trail we’d been on thus far. Well, she got it as we climbed to the highest peak on the TRT, Relay Peak at 10,301ft. Temps dropped and snow fell as we hit snow covered trail that had yet to melt from the winter. It was like we entered a magical winter mountain expedition for a brief period before dropping back down to snow free trail.

Backpacking the Tahoe Rim Trail

Some areas still had remaining snowpack from the previous winter.

Day 4: Of Course We Did! (31.1 miles)

We awoke knowing that we were 31.1mi from our resupply location of Tahoe City, which the trail goes right through and the one point where the trail goes down to Lake Tahoe. There was quite a bit of wooded hiking with a gradual descent. The pull of a hotel room, a restaurant meal, and shower motivated us to make the miles in time for dinner. It was glorious in only the way a meal at the end of a 31 mile day can be.

Day 5: This Is the Life! (9.7 miles)

A relaxed return to trail after a half day in town and taking in the atmosphere at a quiet and clear Tahoe City Marina. The less populated trail is a bonus for hiking early in the season. One of those days that feels free, relaxed, and calm. With full packs, we began the climb back up into the woods and rain began to fall. We got our tents up in a sheltered area just as an earth shaking thunderstorm blew through for brief periods before bed. Just awesome!

Day 6: Returning HOME (21.4 miles)

The day we all were excited about! We started our 50 mile overlap with the Pacific Crest Trail! Before hitting that intersection, we took a side trip to scramble to the summit of Twin Peaks, a highlight of the hike. All of us have completed the PCT and this was like returning HOME. We talked to countless thru-hikers and reminisced on our respective days through this section.

Day 7: Stupendous & Serendipitous (18.9 miles)

One of my all time favorite days ever on trail..heck ever in life! Sometimes the trail is just magical. We spent the morning hiking through the Desolation Wilderness while still overlapping with the PCT. We were transported to an abundance of alpine lakes reflecting granite peaks with snow on top. Temperatures were the warmest of the entire hike – in the 80s – and that made for some welcoming dips in the lakes and streams. An amazing number of coincidences happened the second half of the day that had us, not only hiking the most beautiful section if the TRT, but also experiencing some true trail magic.

Tahoe Rim Trail - Desolation Wilderness

We were unexpectedly hosted by old trail friends that happened to be staying at Echo Summit Lodge. Dinner was made by a world famous chef, and we were invited to stay the night. Even more magical, as the evening wore on, we discovered how many of our paths had unknowingly crossed years ago, and how serendipitous life can be. We were definitely where we were meant to be that night!

Day 8: Nice Climbs & Fun Finds (17.9 miles)

Coming off the high of the previous day, we were gliding. We saw many more PCTers in our final miles overlapping the PCT. After forking off the PCT, we dipped down into a forested area where we surprisingly found ourselves surrounded by treasure in the form of morel mushrooms! At $40/lb these are a rare find and they were in abundance around us given the unique conditions of cold damp weather. Why Not found a whole new use for her mosquito head net as she collected quite the loot of morels. Note, that it is legal to pick small amounts of morels along many areas of the TRT and as long as they are not being sold for commercial use.

Switchback - Thru-hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail

The final day would be defined by fog and wet weather.

Day 9: Socked Ending (22.3 miles)

The final day ended in deep fog. A viewless, yet mystical ending, that seemed fitting after having experienced almost every type of weather. It was really unique to experience a day that felt like fall in the Northwest, when it was early June and we had been in 80 degree heat just two days prior in the Desolation Wilderness swimming in alpine lakes. Much of the trail that day was in a forested area and made for quite nice scenery, but we did miss out on one particularly great view at the pass near Freel Peak. Looks like I have yet another great reason to return to do this hike again!

Tahoe Rim Trail

The Tahoe Rim Trail holds its challenges, but the rewards made the effort worth it.

Final Thoughts on the Tahoe Rim Trail

As I said before, I’ve hiked thousands of miles, and the Tahoe Rim Trail ranks up there with some of the best. It’s remarkable what we experienced in just the 9 days that we took to hike the trail. I think I could hike this trail multiple times and get vastly different experiences each time. The TRT is unique in providing such a variety of experiences and scenery while also being a trail that both beginner and veteran hikers would greatly enjoy. There are definitely challenges to face with terrain, elevation, weather, and water, but the TRT is one of those trails where the rewards definitely make the challenges worth facing. A highly recommended trail for day hiking, biking, thru-hiking, section-hiking, and horseback riding. Enjoy!

Need to Know

Information

Head over to www.tahoerimtrail.org for links to resources and more information on the Tahoe Rim Trail. Pay attention to days when mountain bikers are allowed on trail, and plan your hiking schedule to avoid them if possible. There is a schedule on the TRT website of which days specific sections are open to mountain bikers as well as hikers. With melting snow and lakes along the way, be armed to defend against mosquitoes during those weeks that they tend to multiply once the snow melts off. Also, look into where the waterless stretches are if you think you’ll need to cache water along these notoriously dry sections.

Permits/Reservations

The two permits needed to hike the Tahoe Rim Trail are a Campfire Permit and a Desolation Wilderness Permit. Information on obtaining those permits can be found on the TRT website.

Best Time to Go

The most ideal window for thru-hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail most years is July-September. Check snow levels if going during the shoulder months.

Maps & Books

There are multiple maps and guidebooks available. Some are listed at the TRT website above including some free ones available for download. A summary of top resources for the trail includes:

The Author

Erin “Wired” Saver is a long distance backpacking blogger that has hiked over 10,000 miles since 2011 including hiking’s Triple Crown (Pacific Crest Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Appalachian Trail). She is well known for her detailed daily hiking journals that can be found on her blog at walkingwithwired.com.

Editor's Note: This article by Erin "Wired" Saver originally appeared in Issue 27 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

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