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A backpacking sleeping pad very importantly provides warmth by insulating us from the cold ground at night, and ideally a sleeping pad will also provide sufficient comfort to allow for a good night of rest. As an item that’s one of the heaviest and bulkiest core gear items you will carry on any backpacking trip, the sleeping pad requires some thought and consideration when it comes to selection and application.
With a multitude of options available there's a sleeping pad to specifically suit any season and backpacking trip, as well as those that offer a wide range of versatility across many situations. In this article we'll look at things to consider and features of some of the best sleeping pads on the market today.

When considering a backpacking sleeping pad, weight, warmth, comfort, and durability should all be considered.
R-Value and Warmth
The most important function a sleeping pad serves is to keep you warm; although we all like to be comfortable we can’t be comfortable if we’re cold. Thus, consider a sleeping pad’s r-value when making a choice. However, there’s no free lunch; the warmer the pad the heavier and bulkier it will be. As such we have to seek a balance just like anything else. For general 3-season use here in the Rockies where it always gets a bit chilly at night, I target a sleeping pad with an r-value of at least 3. Combined with an appropriate sleeping bag for the forecasted lows of course, I’ve found this to provide sufficient warmth into the higher 20’s.
When it will be colder, I combine this pad with the thinnest (1/4" or less) and lightest generic closed cell foam pad I can find particularly of the Evazote foam variety that can easily be cut down to a custom size or folded over to double up if needed. Options like the ULA Siesta pad or this option on Amazon, and foam pads sometimes carried by many cottage makers / vendors also work well. Essentially, you are looking for a thin 1/8" to 1/4" foam pad that will cover you width wise (depends on your main pad width of choice), and at least offer torso length coverage or more. This system will keep me comfortably warm to the high teens.
If it will be colder than that I will combine my usual sleeping pad with a thick foam pad of nearly an equal r-value. As an example, the Exped Synmat UL7 – find our full review here – which is my choice for an inflatable pad – combined with something like the Z Lite Sol foam pad and the aforementioned thin foam pad will provide a total r-value approaching 6. A combo like this has kept me warm on winter trips well below 0.

On this trip with a low for the night well below 0, I packed both this RidgeRest Solar plus an insulated inflatable.
Some inflatable pads like the Exped Ultra 1R feature no insulation at all (r-value around 1) and basically provide mostly comfort from the ground, but not cold ground. These pads are lighter and cheaper, and might be useful for a dedicated summer sleeping pad in warm locales. On the flipside some winter sleeping pads, such as the Exped Dura 8R or the NeoAir X-Therm NXT MAX, are heavily insulated and would be sufficiently warm all on their own for cold winter camping and for cold sleepers.
On both sides of the coin though each are on the specialized end of the spectrum; I prefer the adaptable approach of using one 3-season rated pad, and then adding in a thin, or thicker foam pad when needed for colder temperatures. For the 3-season pad I like an inflatable to provide the comfort and some baseline level of insulation, and when combined with the additional foam pad the foam pad protects the inflatable and will even serve as a fail-safe should the inflatable spring a leak.

As a general starting guide an r-value of 2+ has been useful for me on summer trips in the mountains and for 3-season use in warmer locations; warm into the 30 degree range. I find an r-value of 3+ most useful all-around, providing sufficient warmth for most 3-season trips in the mountains and down to the 20 degree range. However if you're a cold sleeper or sleep warm, you can implement some respective addition or subtraction here. For winter trips I do not mess around and take a combination of pads totaling a 5-6+ r-value. Pads that feature an r-value under 2 I find useful only as part of a larger system (as a solution to boost warmth as part of an overall sleep system), but not on their own.
Sleeping Pad Size
Sleeping pads are usually offered in multiple lengths and depending on your height and use, an appropriate fit can be found. If you’re going with an ultralight approach a shorter pad can work that offers coverage for the most important part of your body – your torso and core, but your feet and legs will hang off the end. To insulate this area you can pile gear and your backpack – that might just have an insulating foam backpanel – at the bottom of the shorter sleeping pad. This will save the most weight, but still will not be as warm or as comfortable as a longer pad. My preference is to use a pad that’s at least close to my height. A few inches shorter is fine as we often sleep a bit shorter than our height with knees and back bent, etc., or longer than your height offers the most luxury. Either way, by getting your whole body on the pad you will sleep warmer.
The standard width for most sleeping pads is 20 inches. Often a wide version (not really standardized, but usually 25”) is also offered and even up to double wide pads for two like the Exped Ultra 3R Duo sleeping pad are offered. Two one-person pads can always be strapped together – Sea to Summit makes the best solution for this I’ve used. Preference will of course depend on your size and sleeping style. A 20” pad works for me, but there’s not much wiggle room and I do sleep better on a wider pad that offers more room to bend your knees for side sleepers or for toss and turners. Many tents are based around this 20” width standard, so be sure your pad will fit in your shelter of choice and combined with whatever width pad your partner may have if you’re sharing a tent.
Either way longer and wider pads offer more comfort but at the cost of an increase in weight and bulk. I’ve accumulated several sizes over the years, so on trips where I’ll be covering a lot of miles I take a standard 6’ pad; on more relaxed trips I like the comfort my Synmat LW (Long/Wide) offers. No matter the size, you will find sleeping pads available in both a traditional rectangular shape as well as in tapering, mummy shapes that narrow towards the feet. While tapered pads offer some weight savings, a rectangular sleeping pad offers more room.

The lower section of a mummy-shaped sleeping pad. Weight is saved, but there's not as much toss and turn room.
Weight
A great target for an adequately warm and comfortable full length standard 3-season sleeping pad for most locations is around 1lb with the weight falling below that as we get into shorter and/or less warm pads, and above that as we get into longer, wider, and warmer pads. Save for a dedicated winter pad, approaching the 2lb mark is best reserved for sleeping pads in more of the super comfortable and warm, but heavy and bulky car camping variety. If you'll be focusing on car camping, weight shouldn't be a concern. The best car camping sleeping pads will be those that are warm, comfortable, and durable. That said, back to the trail...
Closed Cell Foam Pads
The simplest and cheapest option to go with is a closed cell foam sleeping pad. I’m much more comfortable on an inflatable pad, but as previously described, I still have an assortment of closed cell foam pads in my gear stash to combine with an inflatable pad for additional warmth on shoulder season and winter trips with my 3-season rated Exped Synmat UL7. However, the foam pad excels in the reliability department – it won’t leak and you don’t have to carry a patch kit. They are also usually cheaper.

The downside is they pack bulky and you will probably have to carry it on the outside of your backpack. This can be a pro though, as the pad will be easily accessible to use as a sit pad on breaks and for lunch. Foam pads are usually just around an inch thick or a bit less, and then compress further when you’re on it. You will definitely feel the ground and any rocks or roots that might occupy your campsite, but if the comfort works for you the foam pad is a reliable and affordable choice. Note that you will want to avoid open cell foam pads, as they will absorb water and when they do they take a long time to dry. Reserve these for use on the futon at home.

Foam pads are bulky to carry, but convenient for breaks.
Most foam pads can be had for under $50. Some popular options include such venerable choices as the generic blue foam pad, the Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest (a classic), and the more conveniently packed Z Lite pad. And in recent years, you can now find that classic foam pads from Therm-a-Rest have been updated with an aluminized reflective (warmer) coating as seen in the Z Lite Sol pad for a small boost in warmth and durability. Overall a foam sleeping pad will above all be dependable, but not the most comfortable or easy to carry.
Inflatable Pads
Inflatable sleeping pads offer a few advantages and disadvantages compared to their closed cell foam cousins. Usually thicker than foam pads when inflated, an air pad can keep you totally off the ground and the inflation level can be adjusted to suit your own comfort preference. Thinner inflatables are better for back sleepers and the thicker variety better for side sleepers.
If you toss and turn, look for a design that is raised around the sides a bit to help center you on the pad and keep you from falling off in the night. Inflatable pads also pack smaller, usually around the size of a Nalgene and even a long / wide inflatable will easily fit inside a backpack. Most air pads usually feature baffles arranged in a horizontal, vertical, or sometimes in a pod like arrangement like the Sea to Summit Ultralight – one of our tested sleeping pads we’ve previously reviewed. Preference varies; I like the lengthwise tubes that I find help me stay centered on the pad. Self-inflating pads usually have a flatter sleeping surface.

The downside of inflatable pads is that they can be punctured, baffles can fail, you have to inflate it, and to be sufficiently warm inflatable pads will use insulation or special baffles that bump up the price. When I carry an inflatable, I also bring a patch kit along just in case, and use care where I put the pad. For inflation I prefer to not use my breath, not only can this be a little difficult at high altitudes after a long day, but it introduces moisture. Many manufacturers offer a pump bag solution – like the Exped Scnhozzel I use, and battery operated pumps are even available.

The standard of inflatables a couple decades ago, some are still self-inflating, but the self-inflating pad has become rarer in recent times. Keeping air pads protected and inside your tent is ideal. Many people may also take a smaller foam pad to use as a dedicated sit pad in this situation. The texture of sleeping pad surfaces vary, and some inflatable pads can be a bit noisy and some can also have slick surfaces that can migrate around the tent, or have you migrating on top of them at night. Some strategic dots of Seam Grip SIL on your (especially if it’s silnylon) tent floor can help mitigate the slipping, and if you combine an inflatable with a foam pad of any type as I often do in colder weather it will mitigate this issue.
For an inflatable lightweight insulated sleeping pad, you are probably looking at something in the $100-$200 range. Popular inflatable pads can be found in the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir series (view at REI) that utilize a combination of baffling and aluminized reflective features to provide warmth, options from Sea to Summit that use microfiber insulation, and many options of various insulation types exist from makers like Big Agnes and Nemo Equipment. The best backpacking sleeping pads will feature a blend of warmth, weight, packed size, and durability. If you choose the most extreme of any category, it will likely be at the cost of something else.
My System & Best Backpacking Sleeping Pads
Just like sleeping bags, selecting a backpacking sleeping pad is without a doubt, a huge balance between weight, comfort, price, reliability, and warmth – and while there’s no best sleeping pad and no free lunch, with so many options out there there’s no doubt the right sleeping pad that suits your style can be found. As a side sleeper who values all the above points fairly equally and has been testing sleeping pads for decades, I like a comfortable 3-season inflatable pad as the main cog in my sleeping pad system, and add in a thin foam pad for just a touch of additional warmth when it's needed and a thicker foam pad for winter conditions.
Some of the best sleeping pad choices on the market can be quickly narrowed down to a few choices. Options include the NEMO Tensor All Season sleeping pad (around $200, 1lb) which is an excellent choice for 3-season use where warmth is appreciated, but it still might get chilly to below freezing at night. With a 5.4 r-value and a rectangular sleeping shape, this pad has a warmth to weight to space ratio that would have seemed impossible a decade ago. The NEMO Tensor All Season is our pick as the top overall sleeping pad currently on the market.
For those looking to save more weight, the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT ($210, 13 ounces in the regular mummy) gets the weight down to an even more ultralight level with sufficient warmth for 3-season trips, and will save some space in the tent and pack if needed (this pad is also available in a rectangular shape).
For winter trips, the pads above can be combined with a foam pad to boost warmth. The Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest (available in a large size) or the more packable Z Lite SOL would be suggested. That said, for dedicated winter backpacking enthusiasts, or for very cold sleepers the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm NXT and NXT MAX sleeping pads with their 7.3 r-values are class leading options.
For a full selection of lightweight sleeping pads that you can then narrow down by type, price, size, etc. take a look here at REI.com.

One of the big 3 of backpacking gear choices (backpack, tent or shelter, and sleeping bag), the backpacking backpack you choose will have a profound impact on your comfort during the hiking day. Your pack will also be one of the more expensive items you’ll purchase, and to get the best pack within your budget a little research will be needed as there are a myriad of packs out there on the market.

In this guide, we’ll look at the best backpacking packs currently on the market based upon anticipated pack weight and packing category (ultralight, lightweight, heavy weight) along with some budget options as well. For the purposes of this guide, we’ll focus on performance, availability, reasonable price, and reasonable longevity for the intended purpose.
Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks
If you’re a weekend or overnight backpacker and / or manage to keep your total pack weight at around 25lbs or less, more ultralight backpacking packs may be worth a look. That said, if you do plan on going over this weight from time to time, and prefer a quiver of one, the next section in this article may be more appropriate to evaluate. For ultralight loads however, the frameless ULA Photon (35L total, 26 ounces, $220) from Ultralight Adventure Equipment is not the lightest pack out there, but is tough and has excellent comfort at these weights along with a livable pocket configuration. For a bit of a space and a carrying ability upgrade, look at the ULA Ohm (63L, 34 ounces, $280) as well as the ULA CDT (54L total, 27 ounces, $220).

The Zpacks Nero Ultra 38L (38L total space, 10 ounces, $250) offers an ultralight option for the lightest of ultralight packers, but in typical Zpacks style still has organization and features you need in a pack of this nature. The Super Nero Ultra 50L boosts the space up to 50L total, with a pack weight of just 12 ounces at $270. Both of these packs are suggested for 20lbs or less of total pack weight. Another option is the MLD (Mountain Laurel Designs) Burn. This pack weighs in just over a pound and retails for $325 with 38L of storage. Featuring the tried and true combination of roll top main compartment, outside pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets, the Burn is a nice option for ultralight overnights or beyond, so long as you are indeed focusing on the “ultra” of ultralight.
Summary: Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks
ULA Photon
ULA Ohm
ULA CDT
Zpacks Nero Ultra 38
Zpacks Super Nero Ultra 50
MLD Burn
Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks
This is the bread and butter category of backpacking packs if you’re focused on lightweight backpacking, planning longer trips where saving weight is a priority, or if you're planning on thru-hiking a long trail. These are the packs that are just right most of the time, just fine (if a little under-loaded) for an overnight, and can be pushed for longer trips – although they may not be the most comfortable for hauling heavy loads the first few days out and until some of that consumable weight is reduced.

In this category and if your pack weight will be under 35-40lbs two packs from ULA Equipment have been a favorite choice of both mine and the backpacking community for years. My pick is the ULA Circuit (total volume 68L, 38.5 ounces, $300) that I’ve used on overnights up to 10 day trips and everything in between, although it’s definitely pushing it for trips over a week for me (whether you’d want to grab a pack from the next section in this article is a personal call).
If you’ll be packing a little heavier, trend towards longer trips, and / or like more space the ULA Catalyst (75L total, 44.4 ounces, $320) will make more sense. To save a little weight and for a more waterproof pack Ultra versions of both of these packs are available. These two packs feature my favorite storage configuration for the trail (as previously described): large roll top main compartment, large outside back pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets. In either case, you simply cannot go wrong with these two venerable ULA packs if you’ll be carrying less than 40lbs fully loaded (I’ve had 50lbs in the Circuit, not suggested but the pack was no worse for wear). And as a quick note if you're looking for a great kid's pack look no further than the ULA Spark.

Another and newer pack to check out in this category is the Durston Kakwa 55 (around 60L total, about 31 ounces, $200-$260). This pack can be either had in the more affordable UltraGrid fabric option or Ultra 200X. Either way you get a pack with impressive organization at reasonable prices, and a pack that’s quite light but still can carry up to 45lbs.
A note on Ultra: while many manufacturers have begun using Ultra (100X / 200X / 400X) fabrics for packs, durability has been mixed on the original fabric and the jury is still out on newer, further reinforced X versions. That said an Ultra pack will get you a completely waterproof pack (except seams unless taped).
UltraGrid however, is a heavier denier nylon with a UHMWPE gridstop and a PU coating on the inside. This coating is rated at a 1500mm hydrostatic head – that’s as waterproof as some tents on the market. Fabrics similar to UltraGrid have proven themselves over the years. They will become more water-resistant in time, but these fabrics have held up very well to the trail – on or off trail for that matter – and have handled abrasion situations very well in my experience. Long story short, it is hard to beat a good gridstop fabric for packs.

Gridstop may not be the most waterproof, but I have gridstop packs with a decade+ of usage that are still quite water resistant and there are other ways to keep your backpacking gear dry. This would include using a pack liner or a large dry bag or two…or alternatively a trash compactor bag would be suggested in regards to pack waterproofing. Gridstops aren’t as trendy as laminates, but I fully expect 10 years or more of use out of packs made with these gridstop ~200+ denier nylon fabrics and there is a lot to be said for that.
Back to backpacks, for the lightest of the light, the Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60L (60L total storage, about 22 ounces, $400) is worth consideration – this pack is rated to carry 40lbs via a carbon fiber frame system with integrated back ventilation and as a bonus is also available in a women's specific version. The pack uses a lighter Ultra 100X to save weight – so this pack will be better for users that are willing to be a little careful with their gear in order to save the weight.
Summary: Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks
ULA Circuit
ULA Catalyst
ULA Spark (for kids)
Durston Kakwa 55
Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60 & Women's
Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs
Weight (of the pack itself...or weight carried within it for that matter) can quickly spiral out of control in this category, with some manufacturers offering packs here that can weigh well over 5lbs. In this category we have a few main venerable larger players, with one example being the Gregory Baltoro and the Gregory Deva series, in particular the Baltoro 75 liter (~80 ounces, $360) and the Baltoro 85 Pro (around 88 ounces, $400), with the women’s version being offered in the Deva 70 backpack (about 75 ounces, $360) as well as the larger Deva 80 Pro pack (~84 ounces, $400).
If you’re looking for a cushy mainstream get-it-done pack to haul large loads that can be on your doorstep a few days from now, the Baltoro and Deva packs have been a go-to for many years and are rated to carry up to 70lbs. Saving weight for the pack itself is not however a strong point here.

If you’ll be hauling a heavy load (long trips, lots of food and water, or extras like packrafts or camera gear) but still have a lightweight approach like me, you may need to look at smaller companies to fill this niche. Leaders in this category include the Superior Wilderness Designs Wolverine 95L (a 70L is also offered) pack as well as their 95L Big Wild pack (no large outside back pocket), also offered in a 70L version.
While color is usually not my primary concern when selecting a pack, these two SWD packs for better or worse are only made in Ultra 400X fabric which only comes in white or black – which I’d have to say, would be towards my last 2 choices when it comes to something like a pack or tent color. That said, these packs are rated to carry up over 50lbs for around $400 and will come in around 40 ounces for the pack itself, plus or minus depending on options. Be sure to check out their available add-ons if you want something like a hydration port or hipbelt pockets.

Hipbelt pockets offer convenience and storage for smaller items you'd like to keep immediately at hand.
A couple other packs stand out here: Nunatak makes extraordinary gear and offers their Plateau Pack (around 40 ounces, $350) with an up to 75L capacity and capable of carrying 50+ lbs. If you need something even larger, check out the Sockdolager Equipment Bad Larry pack ($475, 3lbs or so depending on options) with Dan Ransom’s tubular aluminum twin stays. The 90L Bad Larry was designed for packrafting, but packrafting specific features can be removed and you end up with a competitive backpacking load hauler pack. These two packs are more custom built and you’ll have to see if things like hydration ports or hipbelt pockets can be added. Be it Superior Wilderness Designs or Nunatak or Sockdolager, plan in advance and buckle up for some wait times.

Seek Outside also offers a couple packs worth checking out – although Seek Outside seems to lean towards the lightweight backcountry hunting crowd, some of their products can be adapted to lightweight backpacking like the 79L Divide 2.0 ($505, 55 ounces). However, Seek Outside takes no custom requests so if you want something like a hydration port, you’re out of luck unless you want to start cutting and sewing yourself. That said Seek Outside’s frames are uniquely rated for pretty much whatever weight you can physically carry, so if you’re wanting to sign up for a suffer fest in regards to pack weight, these are the packs that would be up to the task.
Summary: Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs
Gregory Baltoro
Gregory Deva
SWD Big Wild 95
SWD Wolverine 95
Nunatak Plateau Pack
Sockdolager Bad Larry
Seek Outside Divide 2.0
Best Budget Backpacking Packs
If you want to keep it under $200 (at least before shipping and tax) – which I would very much consider a budget range for a backpacking pack – the previously mentioned Durston Kakwa 55 in UltraGrid offers quite a bit of value in this category as long as you’re packing somewhat lightweight, with the REI Co-op Flash 55 (about 55 liters, just under 3lbs, $200) offering another option that’s worth ample consideration. The REI Co-op Flash has the bonus of being offered in both a men’s and women’s version and in my experience, this line has demonstrated good value and very acceptable performance. Another interesting sub-$200 option can be found in the Osprey Rook 65 backpack (men's) and the Osprey Renn 65L (women's). Designed to carry up to 40lbs, these packs offer 65 liters of space, basic features, and can be had for about $190 while weighing in just under 4lbs.

A pack from the REI Co-op Flash series.
It is also worth checking out the REI Co-op Outlet from time to time, as you can often find many packs or last year’s model that will be perfectly serviceable at a discount here. For a budget load hauler pack, this can be tough since these are typically the larger and more feature-packed (expensive) options. The aforementioned REI Co-op Outlet is a good place to start your search. That said the Kelty Asher 85 is also worth consideration – as you’d expect it’s an 85 liter pack that weighs in close to 6 pounds, but can carry a heavy load and retails for just under $200 full price.
Summary: Best Budget Backpacking Packs
Durston Kakwa UltraGrid
REI Co-op Flash 55
Osprey Rook 65
Osprey Renn 65
REI Co-op Outlet Packs
Kelty Asher 85
My Approach to Backpacking Packs and in Conclusion
If you like to keep your gear simple and want one pack to do it all, there are a few ways to go about your approach. You can pick a pack rated for the heaviest load you’ll ever carry, and while it may be a bit much for shorter trips it will work. Or you could go for a pack rated for the typical load you’ll carry, but your shoulders may be complaining at the start of longer trips. This can be done if you’re only rarely expecting to take these kinds of trips and saving the cash is more important than comfort (not my choice).

You could also pick a pack for overnights, another for most trips in the middle, and an even larger pack for load hauling and the longest excursions. For me, I like two packs: one do it all (from the lightweight and long distance category) and another load hauler for extended trips with extra gear. One advantage of this route (multiple packs) is that it spreads the wear out a bit and your packs will last longer.
For more information on how to choose a backpacking backpack, size, materials, and pack features and considerations, see our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking and Hiking Backpack. For a large selection of various backpacking packs that you can sort and filter by capacity and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For Related reading on the "big 3" see our articles, Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget as well as How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag.

An important core backpacking gear item, your backpacking sleeping bag needs to be light enough to carry easily, pack small enough as to not take over your entire pack, and most importantly keep you warm and comfortable at night. In this guide we’ll focus on the best backpacking sleeping bags currently on the market by temperature rating.

As this is a backpacking focused article weight of the sleeping bag and warmth to weight ratio will be of a paramount focus here, with down bags ruling the roost. For a basecamp scenario, synthetic bags would be worth consideration. See our guide on down vs. synthetic insulation for more information and background. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on features, weight, and performance.
Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Backpacking Sleeping Bags
This can be a complicated category with many options. Bags in this range can be very light, but early morning hours can be a bit crisp and ample warmth will be appreciated during the night. My pick hands down would be the Zpacks Classic 30 degree sleeping bag. Weighing in at just 14 ounces and going for $440, this bag is made with DownTek 900 fill power water resistant down and is available in 7 different sizes.
Going to a hoodless sleeping bag (I mostly use the Zpacks 20 degree) has changed my backcountry sleeping for the better – now I can turn with the bag, or inside the bag, no matter. Additionally with the zipper on the bottom maximum heat is retained and you have no zipper at the top (leaking the most hot air) no matter if you’re a back sleeper or a side sleeper. In milder conditions above the shoulders just a warm hat works well for me, but if it gets cold at night you can add in an additional goose hood.

Traditional top-tier manufacturers include Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering. When it comes to Western Mountaineering, they offer a variety of bags in this category, many that don’t have much difference between each other from a big picture point of view. Their MegaLite 30 degree sleeping bag weighs in at 24 ounces and is a nice option if you like more traditional design features. The MegaLite uses 850 fill down and is a wider bag with a passive draft collar that I’ve found is sufficient down to around freezing.
Western Mountaineering bags aren’t cheap – the MegaLite will set you back about $600 – but with proper care these are bags that will last darn near forever. For slimmer users and in warmer conditions one could consider the Western Mountaineering SummerLite (around $500, 19 ounces) – although we’ve found this one starts to take on a chill as temperatures close in towards the freezing mark, it would be ideal for warmer nights.

Both the MegaLite and SummerLite from Western Mountaineering feature a fully baffled construction (the bag is not sewn through to create the baffles – a sewn through bag results in a lighter and possibly less expensive construction but will have cold spots when temperatures drop).
The Western Mountaineering FlyLite is a newer bag that is an option for warmer weather trips – it’s rated to 36 degrees, weighs just ~14 ounces in a standard width, and retails for just over $500. This makes it the lightest fully baffled bag Western Mountaineering offers.

Draft tubes, draft collars, continuous baffles, and so on are not as critical during warmer conditions and their omission can save weight, but I find I've always appreciated these features in the field.
Feathered Friends additionally offers top of the line down sleeping bags including the Hummingbird UL 30 ($550, about 22 ounces). This is a narrower bag (saves weight, more efficient) so keep that in mind, but if you’ll fit, as with Western Mountaineering this 950 fill power down bag is expensive but worth it.
For women Feathered Friends offers their Egret UL 30 ($550, about 24 ounces) with an even narrower cut but in a more women’s-specific shape. Wider bags from Feathered Friends include the Swift UL 30 ($580, about 26 ounces) and the more middle of the road width wise Swallow UL 30 (24 ounces, $570). It will be hard to go wrong with a Feathered Friends bag, so long as you get the right fit.

Another option is the REI Co-op Magma 30 (averaging around 25 ounces, $380) – offered in no less than 9 sizes for an almost custom type of fit, this bag keeps it lightweight via use of an 850 fill power water resistant down, standard features, and you even get an interior pocket. While of all things backpacking a down sleeping bag is one place where I would not try to cut budget, this is one bag that could be considered more in the budget category if you catch it on sale.
Summary: Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Sleeping Bags (and rating F)
Zpacks Classic 30
Western Mountaineering MegaLite (30)
Western Mountaineering SummerLite (32)
Western Mountaineering FlyLite (36)
Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 30
Feathered Friends Egret UL 30
Feathered Friends Swift UL 30
Feathered Friends Swallow UL 30
REI Co-op Magma 30
Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags
Everything in nature seems to change below freezing, and at these temperatures I find that it becomes more important to consider those extra features like a nice draft tube and hood, with a draft collar being very much appreciated. For me and many others that backpack mostly in mountain terrain, the 20 degree bag gets the most use 3 seasons out of the year. These are your bread and butter sleeping bags, and from my perspective if you’re looking for the best sleeping bag in this category, you’ll likely be looking at the same brands we’ve previously discussed.
Feathered Friends offers their versatile Hummingbird UL 20 (24 ounces, $610) – with the Feathered Friends Egret 20 (~28 ounces, around $610) being a women’s-specific option in this temperature range. These are narrower bags to save the most weight. However, if you like a little more space in a bag as I do, check out the Swallow UL 20 (27 ounces, $630).

In regards to Western Mountaineering, we can narrow this down to the venerable UltraLite 20 degree (29 ounces, $630) – which is your narrow / standard option – and the wider and perhaps more comfortable 20 degree AlpinLite (31 ounces, $710). Although it’s a bit heavier the AlpinLite’s space wins out for me out of these two bags, but as with Feathered Friends, you can’t go wrong here.
That said as previously mentioned and although I have had many a comfortable backcountry night in a WM AlpinLite, my preference for a backpacking sleeping bag has evolved towards the hoodless category. The Zpacks 20 Degree Classic sleeping bag (~19 ounces, $460) is my current choice for a bag in this temperature range – I find at these temperatures a hoodless bag is ideal (so long as I wear the warm hat I already take and wear a jacket with a hood). You can find my review of the Zpacks 20 here, although Zpacks has since updated the bag just a bit with upgrades. Zpacks again also offers their goose hood, but with a warm hat and jacket hood, I haven’t personally needed this until temps fall below 20. That said if you’re not ready to give up your sleeping bag hood, Zpacks also offers their 20 degree Mummy sleeping bag (23 ounces in medium standard, $580) with a built-in traditional hood.

When on sale, for a more budget option in this category we’ll go ahead and put the REI Co-op Magma 15 in this category (comfort limit: 21 degrees). With a weight of around 36 ounces depending on size and retailing at $429 full price, this bag offers a very reasonable weight in 9 different sizes for a tailored fit, and at a very reasonable price especially if you catch it on sale.
Summary: Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags
Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 20
Feathered Friends Egret UL 20
Feathered Friends Swallow UL 20
Western Mountaineering UltraLite (20)
Western Mountaineering AlpinLite (20)
Zpacks 20 Degree Classic
Zpacks 20 Degree Mummy
REI Co-op Magma 15
Best Winter and Cold Weather (Zero and 10 Degree) Sleeping Bags
I find that it’s more versatile to have 2 warmer rated bags, combining them to form a winter sleep system when needed for cold winter trips rather than keeping a bag from this category on hand. As an example, I’ve combined a 20 degree and a more summer-oriented bag and stayed warm (with appropriate sleeping pads and a total r-value for the temperature) on winter trips nearing minus 20F. That said if you have one 3 season bag that covers all seasons other than winter, sleep especially cold and want a warmer bag for 3 season mountain trips, or are looking to add in a dedicated winter bag, a bag in this category may be desired.
Same players, different temperature ratings again here. The 2lb., $735 Western Mountaineering VersaLite 10 degree sleeping bag is a solid choice on the warmer end of this category. One nice thing about the Versalite is that it’s in the middle width-wise – just right. Going back a bit to their 20 degree options if the UltraLite was a bit too tight, and the AlpinLite a bit too wide, the VersaLite will likely be a perfect choice.

For a women’s-specific bag check out the 10 degree Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10 (2lbs, $660). This is a super high quality women’s bag that is not unheard of on packing lists even for summer trips in the mountains for cold sleepers. As a women’s bag I haven’t personally used the Petrel, but having seen this bag being used in the field on many occasions I’m never surprised by the loft of Petrel – you may need a bigger pack!
At these temperatures I do think a sleeping bag hood is something good to have – you want to retain every bit of heat your body puts off during the night within a singular compartment and bag. Thus the 28 ounce, $600 Zpacks Mummy Sleeping Bag in a 10 degree would be well worth consideration here for hikers looking to save weight.

On cold winter trips, I prioritize warmth and features over weight.
The colder it becomes the less I am personally concerned about weight – I prioritize warmth and comfort – and the last thing I’d want is a constricting bag on a winter night that could last 16 hours or more. In their wide mummy series the Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL (34 ounces, $700) would make for a top of the line choice in a 10 degree bag, but if saving the weight is more critical (via less width), the Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL (31 ounces, $680) would be the next logical choice here.
Pushing the rating to 0F Feathered Friends offers their women’s Murre ES 0 degree bag (3lbs, $780) as well as their Ibis ES 0 Degree (50 ounces, $820). With a focus on heating efficiency, both of these bags have a bit of a narrow cut to be aware of – as with many things, there are pros and cons.
Summary: Best Winter and Cold Weather Sleeping Bags
Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10)
Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10
Zpacks 10 Degree Mummy
Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL
Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL
Feathered Friends Murre ES 0
Feathered Friends Ibis ES 0
Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags
While I prefer to combine 2 bags to make a poor man’s expedition bag for general winter backpacking trips in the lower 48, if I were to plan an Arctic expedition, a cold mountaineering summit attempt, or for some type of cold northern basecamp type scenario, an expedition bag would certainly be appreciated in these unique circumstances.

Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering offer some very intriguing, and impressive, choices here that both throw plenty of goose down at the issue. The Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (69 ounces, $1360) is rated to -40F with 10” of loft and a weather-resistant shell. This bag is sized generously for additional comfort on those long winter nights.
On the Feathered Friends side, their -40F solution can be found in the Snow Goose ES -40 (65 ounces, $1170). This bag is another bag that’s sized generously for more comfort and space if you’ll be spending a lot of time in your sleeping bag. If -40F isn’t warm enough however, the 78 ounce, $1360 Snowy Owl ES -60 bag from Feathered Friends may be up your alley for the most epic of arctic level expeditions.
Summary: Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags
Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (-40)
Feathered Friends Snow Goose ES -40
Feathered Friends Snowy Owl -60

Whether it's an expedition sleeping bag rated to 60 below or a featherweight summer bag that packs up smaller than a water bottle, there is a sleeping bag on the market for every possible use and scenario.
In Conclusion
A critical item on your gear list, there are a few ways to go about your sleeping bag strategy. You could choose to go with a bag rated for the lowest temperatures you’ll ever backpack in, but this bag may be overly bulky and heavy for warm summer trips (albeit workable). To save weight, I like to go with a 2 bag system, a warmer bag for downright summer-like weather, and a 20 degree bag that gets the vast majority of use for 3-season trips in the mountains where lows in the 20s are not uncommon in August. When I head out on a winter trip, I combine them.
Whether you opt for a 1 bag approach or a multitude of bags ideal for every scenario, sleeping warm adds to any trip – and while a slightly heavier and warmer bag may not rule the ultralight spreadsheet, some temperature rating buffer is always appreciated at night when you’re out there.
For a list of sleeping bags from various manufacturers that you can sort and filter by temperature rating and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For background info on sleeping bags, refer to our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag.
For additional related “big 3” and “big 4” gear selection, take a look at our articles: Choosing the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pad as well as Best Backpacking Backpacks, and Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget.

No matter your approach to backpacking – ultralight, comfort light, traditional, or whatever our own unique approaches may be in the gear department, backpacking in and of itself goes hand in hand with a gear list (whether on paper or simply in our heads), making a way to carry all that stuff one of the most important gear related items we need to consider. What follows is a guide to selecting an appropriate backpack for hiking and backpacking, including an overview of features, technologies, materials, and other considerations that are needed when it comes to selecting the best backpacking backpacks.

REI Co-op Flash 45 Backpack (our review)
The Backpack Frame
As soon as you start to carry more than 15-20lbs on a trip (including food and water), which is the case for the great majority of backpackers with a full pack, a pack with a frame should be selected to help transfer the weight of the pack off your shoulders and on to your hips. While in years past the great debate was internal frame backpacks vs. those with external frames, the majority of choices on the market today will feature an internal frame when it comes to the multiday hiking backpack category. If you're in the market for an ultralight backpacking pack, with a few exceptions you'll be looking at internal framed packs (or even frameless on the extreme end of the spectrum). Some companies that offer packs like this include Hyperlite Mountain Gear (view their lineup here), backpacks from Zpacks, etc.
On the flip side externally framed packs are now available with cutting edge materials and designs that are significantly lighter than the traditional heavy and tubular external framed packs of days past, so with packs breaking out of the mold in many cases, I like to focus more on the other specifications of a pack rather than agonizing over the internal vs. external backpack frame debate. As long as it has a frame – commonly made of aluminum, carbon fiber, or a high density plastic sheet – other specifications such as maximum weight carrying capacity, materials used, comfort, and organization are most important to me.

Many frameless backpacking packs exist and are more specialized in nature, suitable for ultralight loads and as such usually most appropriate for shorter duration trips where less food will have to be carried and in areas where water sources are frequent. With careful packing however these ultralight frameless packs can still be used if you’re very diligent about how much weight you’ll be carrying and especially if you are concerned about having the lightest possible total pack weight.
However, their use is limited and I find it more feasible to utilize a framed pack on short trips where I might be carrying an extra pound of pack or so, rather than trying to deal with the limited weight carrying capacity of a frameless pack (and often limited storage capacity) on a longer trip. Some frameless packs will even omit a hip belt to save more weight, but even on a frameless pack I still prefer a hip belt – while weight transfer to your hips will be limited without a frame, every little bit helps.

While frameless packs will always boast the best weights, often hovering around just 1lb, thankfully many lightweight framed packs are now available from many manufacturers. For most backpacking purposes a framed pack weighing 2-3lbs is a great range to target, and perhaps a bit more if you like to carry a heavier range of gear, food, or water – or all of the above. And like shoes, backpack fit and comfort is critical and this is where it pays to take some extra time measuring your torso length and checking out the manufacturer’s sizing guide, as framed packs are usually available in several sizes. Often each size will have a bit of adjustment built in, and will be provided by moving the hip belt or shoulder strap attachment points in order to fine tune the fit.
Capacity
Expressed in cubic inches or liters, the most popular sizes for modern backpacking would be options in the 45 liter range (~2750 cubic inches) like the REI Flash 45 – quite appropriate for most weekend trips – and packs stepping up in size into the 60 liter range, which I find most appropriate for week long trips or so. Both sizes can be pushed a bit beyond these limits and depending on your other gear and packing style. Regardless, there will be times when a 45 liter is a bit too small or a 60 liter a bit too large, but it comes down to a personal decision and how your trips typically take place; some of us are weekend warriors with others tending to head out only on longer trips.
The other strategy is collecting multiple packs and picking from your collection depending on the trip at hand. For me, I like one pack that can do it all just to keep it simple (and cheaper), with my 4200 cubic inch (this includes all storage – not just the main compartment) ULA Circuit serving as my workhorse backpacking pack for all trips. With around 10 days the longest I will go at a stretch (this is about as much food as I prefer to carry at once), the pack will be at its limits early in the trip, but is perfect after a few days. For overnights or weekends in the summer where gear is minimal, my jack of all trades pack will have some extra space, but I will just allow my down bag to loft up inside and it’s always better to be in a situation where your pack is suited to carry more weight than you actually are carrying than the other way around.

The other capacity consideration is in regards to weight. Backpacks with a beefier frame and more sturdy hip belts will allow you to carry more weight comfortably, but as we increase in weight capacity the weight of the actual backpack itself increases as well, forcing a balance to be struck. Again here we need to evaluate the length of our typical backpacking trip and normal proximity to water sources (water is heavy). One pack will not be perfectly suited for every condition. Whether you are just starting your collection of backpacking gear or are looking to upgrade an existing pack, this is also the time where it pays to evaluate all the rest of your backpacking gear, weigh it, and figure out how much food and water you’ll also usually be carrying before buying the pack itself.
My preference again is to go with a lightweight pack that is suitable for carrying the full weight of all my gear, the full weight of my food even on day 1 of most trips, and all that combined with all the water I’ll be carrying. Sure, the occasional longest of trips might be a little heavy on my shoulders until I eat a day of food, but 95% of the time the pack will be near perfect. A little math at home here will pay off later on the trail.
Features and Organization
25 years ago – when you’d find inspirational, beautiful brochures detailing a popular manufacturer’s complete line of external framed packs along with the latest Campmor catalog in your mailbox, packs seemingly had a compartment or pocket for everything. Dedicated sleeping bag compartment. Swiss Army knife pocket. Zippered storage for your MSR white gas fuel bottle. The list goes on.
While organization is a key component to finding what you need quickly on the trail, there’s no reason to go overboard, or under when choosing a backpack. I like the big 4: Main storage compartment, outside pocket or storage, hip belt pockets, and dual side water bottle pockets. I’ve found this arrangement to be the best balance for me on the trail, and I then utilize further lightweight stuffsacks if additional organization is needed – rather than just throwing the complete contents of my first aid kit randomly in the main compartment of the pack for example.

With this arrangement you are able to pack anything you’ll need only at camp inside the main compartment (sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc.), pack anything you might need immediately at hand during the day in the outside pocket of the pack like rain gear – this pocket can be in the form of a lid or pocket on the rear of the backpack. You’ll also have easy access to small frequently used items, or emergency items in your hip belt and side water bottle pockets – things like a small camera, snacks, whistle, and water bottles themselves – all without having to take your pack off. Even if you're in the market for an ultralight backpack, you should be able to find these features even on the lightest backpacks.
Additional attachment points are always nice to have on longer trips or for those times you might be carrying extra gear. This ability can come in many forms – bungee systems on the outside of the pack, ice axe loops, etc., with the main concern here being their existence without getting in the way or adding too much weight to the pack. Often, normal closure or compression straps can also be utilized to hold items you might want to secure to the outside of your pack like a bulky foam sleeping pad.

Top loading hiking backpacks feature a large opening on top of the pack – either a roll top design which works well for compression and water resistance, or with a drawstring closure often covered by a “lid” or “brain” with a pocket. Panel loading packs, which operate a bit like a suitcase with long zippers, are also available if you feel you prefer easy access to all of your gear at once, however panel loading hiking backpacks will often be a bit more complicated and a little heavier.
Although it may go without saying, other features such as a sternum strap, load lifters for framed packs to pull the load closer to your center of gravity and move more weight off your shoulders, a comfortable hip belt, and features like a padded backpanel are all things to check off the list. Other features such as ventilated backpanels, hydration sleeves and ports, or trekking pole holders for example should be sought after on a preferential basis.
Materials
Protecting the rest of your gear contained within, and other than shoes and trekking pole tips, backpacks face one of the roughest existences on the trail of all the gear we carry. However, going over-durable here can lead to an overly heavy pack, but we still need something that can withstand being dropped on the ground and rocks repeatedly, leaned against scraggly trees, and contact with brush and boulders without having to constantly repair or replace our pack. Often the simple eye test can give an indication of just how durable all the various fabrics utilized for backpacks may be. Silnylon and standard Cuben / Dyneema Composite Fabrics dominate the ultralight pack market, but are not particularly durable fabrics in regards to abrasion resistance.

A water resistant ripstop nylon pack fabric
A hybrid Dyneema fabric is also available, featuring a polyester face fabric for increased abrasion resistance while still taking advantage of the waterproofness and strength of the base Dyneema material (seams may however, not be sealed or taped in any water resistant pack). Heavier duty ripstop nylons and Dyneema gridstop are more popular fabrics and offer a great balance of weight and durability. The latter two options frequently feature a PU coating for waterproofing, which will degrade over time – no matter the case one should always further waterproof their critical gear by way of waterproof stuff sacks, or by using a pack liner of some type – usually just a larger version of a waterproof stuff sack or a trash compactor bag.
A pack cover is another way to approach waterproofing, and some packs like the REI Co-op Traverse (view at REI) include a rain cover that can be stashed in the pack when not in use. In rainy conditions, an outside mesh pocket can be nice to have for drying gear, once the rain does stop. In all cases, if the bottom of the pack is reinforced with a double layer or heavier duty material this is always a bonus, with this location being the most susceptible to abrasion and wear.

Straps and Belts
A backpacking backpack designed for carrying heavy loads will frequently feature heavily cushioned shoulder straps and hip belts, while lightweight packs and ultralight packs will typically feature minimal padding in this regard. I usually carry loads up to around 50lbs on extended backpacking trips, and find that I typically prefer minimal padding on a hip belt, with medium padding on shoulder straps. With the minimal padding, I just feel more connected to the pack and frankly, I think that backpack fit is most important here.
Some backpacking backpacks like the ULA Circuit, are worth consideration for their dual adjustable hip belt straps that pull inward. This allows both for a more ergonomic fit and adjustment. Make sure you can easily reach and adjust all straps on your pack, including your load lifter, shoulder straps, and hip belt straps all on the fly. Instead of more pockets than you can count and technical fabric and frame materials, the best backpacking backpack for you might just be the one that's simply the most comfortable and isn't a hassle to adjust on the trail.
In Review
Thankfully, as a required item for backpacking there are no shortage of lightweight, framed, frameless, heavy duty, ultralight, top loading, panel loading, and men’s or women’s backpacks – or various combinations of these designs – on the market today. No matter your take and approach on the subject, the best backpack for hiking on those extended trips might be the one that you end up thinking about the least while on the trail; one that carries all your gear across the various intended situations with ease, all the while without weighing you down and one that is sufficiently durable to last for countless backcountry adventures.
For a current list of backpacks that you can filter and sort by many of the features we’ve discussed in this post, see this page at REI.com. For our current choices so far as the best packs out there are concerned, see our related article: Best Backpacking Backpacks: From Overnight to Thru-hike.

For backpackers in all but the most temperate and low elevation climates, a down jacket is an almost indispensable piece of gear. While fleece jackets, wool sweaters, or synthetic insulation pieces can provide warmth, their ability to do so at a comparable warmth-to-weight ratio as a down jacket is lacking. Although synthetic pieces are certainly catching up in the warmth-to-weight regard and their ability to insulate when wet provides a distinct advantage, there is a reason why the most common insulating jacket you'll see on backpackers is the down jacket – it works well and has been proven (and improved) over time.

There are also plenty of down jackets to choose from – hundreds of options appear when searching "down jacket" on online outdoor retailers. Most backpackers will want a jack-of-all-trades type of down jacket. The Feathered Friends Eos jacket is an excellent example of this type of down jacket and, after a year of wearing it on various trips in the Northern Rockies and Pacific Northwest, I’ve found that it’s overall an excellent jacket in general.
The Feathered Friends Eos Jacket
One of Feathered Friends lightweight jackets (the company also offers jackets in midweight and expedition categories), the hooded Eos is an ideal jacket for serious backpackers who don't cancel trips because the forecast might involve some ice forming in their water bottle overnight. While not warm enough – or intended for – use as a primary insulating layer in extreme cold, this jacket will keep you warm in all but the most record-breaking temperatures or highest elevations for most three-season backpacking in North America's mountains.

Filled with 900+ fill power goose down, this jacket leaves nothing be desired in regard to insulation. Worn over a midweight baselayer, this jacket was plenty of insulation while watching the sun rise from the breezy catwalk of an abandoned lookout with temperatures in the mid-teens. Tossing a shell over it in similar conditions has kept me warm during periods of low-activity at temperatures down to the upper single digits, but any lower would've been stretching the limits of comfort. The sewn-through construction does theoretically leave the jacket vulnerable to cold spots, but the overall impact on the warmth provided was negligible.

The pockets on this jacket were extremely comfortable and just the right size – large enough to hold a glove, warm a pair of socks, or stash a headlamp, but not so large as to swallow the item and have it awkwardly rolling around. This jacket unfortunately lacks one of my favorite features of another down jacket I own (an Outdoor Research Transcendent that was slightly less warm and four ounces heavier, but a solid jacket which the Eos replaced after eight years of dutiful service): internal stash pockets that are perfect for warming up a pair of socks or gloves and storing other bulky clothing items.
As warm as this jacket is, its weight – at 11.93 ounces for a men’s medium (advertised average weight is 10.6 ounces) without the stuff sack (0.38 ounces) – is exceedingly reasonable. There are certainly other jackets on the market that are much lighter, but they often either have dialed back features, less down fill, lack a hood, or are extremely expensive. For a hooded, full-featured down jacket that is this warm I think just shy of three-quarters of a pound is nothing to agonize over.
After having experienced the bane of zipper failure on other pieces of clothing and gear, I’ve started paying a lot of attention to zippers. And the zippers on this jacket are as solid as they come. The pockets and the main zipper function as to be expected and, somewhat surprising given how stuffed with down the jacket is, I’ve yet to experience anything other than the slightest snag, and that only rarely.

A hem cord helps keep drafts out of this jacket, which is helpful since I found the cut to be capable of layering over a very thin fleece in the coldest conditions, but which otherwise fit perfectly. The lycra cuffs snugly fit my wrists and kept their shape well even after lots of use and pulling the cuffs up my forearms when washing dishes, filtering water, and other tasks where I didn’t want to get them wet. The hood is not adjustable but its design was so efficient that it never left me feeling like I needed the cinch cords that are on most of my other hooded down jackets.

I’m a big believer in the power of Pertex Quantum fabrics and was pleased to see that was what Feathered Friends used for this jacket. Not only is Pertex Quantum a practical fabric choice, but I find it to be very comfortable when touching the skin, like when the jacket is worn over a t-shirt at a chilly lunch break or around camp on a mild evening. The outer shell of the jacket is treated with DWR and sheds drizzle and snow as well as would be expected for a non-waterproof fabric – which is basically to say well enough to not panic if your rain shell was mistakenly placed at the bottom of your pack. Since the down is not hydrophobically treated, once it gets wet you’re out of luck, but as any reasonable backpacker knows you carry a shell to protect the layers you don’t want to get wet. Over time and after washing, you can always restore the DWR / durable water repellent using a spray-on DWR restorer if needed.

With all the bases covered in regard to warmth, weight, and basic features, this jacket is a solid piece of gear by any objective standards. I was also pleased with the subjective characteristics of this jacket, like its color and the color of the zippers. It adds a nice bit of richness to what could otherwise be a bland and utilitarian item. The cut of this jacket was ideal for me (5’11”, 160 lbs.) and fit true to the size (men’s medium). The stuff sack included with the jacket is functional, but I most often opted to store the jacket in an eVent compression sack with my sleeping bag to consolidate the items in my pack.

Feathered Friends Eos jacket packed size
Conclusion
Last but not least, it is worthwhile to note that this jacket is made in Seattle, Washington from imported materials. I’ll refrain from getting into a discussion of economics, trade policies or non-economic values, but I think that buying a high-quality piece of gear made in the United States is something worth feeling good about. At $409, this jacket is certainly not a purchase to be made on a whim. But given the cost of other similar jackets (both in regard to warmth and weight), this price seems to fall within the ever-vague bounds of “fair”.
Overall, I found this jacket to be excellent in all regards and would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone who backpacks in areas where the temperatures dip down to freezing or below. Down jackets, like most big gear purchases, are an item that you want to get right the first time. Opting for the Feathered Friends Eos gives you solid odds of doing just that.
The Feathered Friends EOS retails for $409. Find it here at Feathered Friends and in both men’s and women’s versions.
Editor's Note: This review originally appeared in Issue 38 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original review here featuring additional photos, pros and cons, and our rating of the Eos jacket from Feathered Friends.