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Best Backpacking Utensils and Trail Cutlery Strategy

Although your local or online retailer likely carries an array of backpacking and camping utensils sure to satisfy even the most advanced culinary ideas, most of us that don't work as a chef for a living can attain backcountry mealtime prowess with the simplest of choices and without cluttering or weighing down our pack. Here are my thoughts on the main players in this department and what I've found has worked best over the years. A selection of backpacking utensils The Backpacki

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Desert Escape: Backpacking Arizona's Aravaipa Canyon

While not an unknown destination by any means, Aravaipa Canyon in southern Arizona is considerably less famous, even among backpackers, than many other destinations in the Grand Canyon State. One of the few perennial streams in the Sonoran Desert, Aravaipa Creek offers those who hike in the area a reliable source of water. This is a welcome treat in arid Arizona, since many backpacking trips in the state must be carefully planned around water sources. Not only does the year-round water in the ca

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Trips

Helinox Chair Zero Review

After an introduction to lightweight backpacking chairs a few years ago, my philosophy on this admittedly somewhat superfluous (but many times well worth the weight) camp comfort item has generally remained unchanged; on longer trips where I’m moving daily and pack weight is of more concern the chair stays behind and any rock or log will do. For the amount of time that you’re actually in camp – and not inside your tent – carrying the weight is simply not worth it. But mental and physical comfort

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Wind River Trails by Finis Mitchell

I’ve dreamed about flyfishing for golden trout in the Wind River Range ever since I picked up a flyfishing magazine when I was about 13 years old that had a short article detailing a backcountry trip in pursuit of the elusive golden trout. Even at the time I was an avid fisherman, but what I read about in that article was the polar opposite of the type of fishing and the type of outdoor experience I was familiar with. While the magazine has long been misplaced, and internet searches to track dow

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Reading

Backpacking the Lost Coast Trail: An Oceanside Wilderness

The Lost Coast Trail (LCT) in northern California may very well be the best beach hike in the United States. The name derives from the fact that it is the only part of the California coast that is not paralleled by a highway. I’m sure the romantic ring of that name only adds to its considerable popularity. It sounds like something from a teenage adventure novel. “The Hardy Boys and the Pirates of the Lost Coast” There is a northern section and a southern section. The southern stretch is muc

George Graybill

George Graybill in Trips

By Men or by the Earth: By Tyler Coulson

In the spring of 2011, and after leaving his life as a corporate lawyer, Tyler Coulson set off from the Atlantic Ocean and the Delaware coastline to undertake a western journey across the United States with Mabel, his adopted dog and companion. Destination: Pacific Ocean. Method of travel: Foot. After 3500 miles and millions of footsteps, Tyler recounted the journey in By Men or by the Earth. Of course, there’s a deeper story to most long walks, and Tyler dives into not only the day to day exper

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Reading

Lacing Tips for Backpacking, Hiking, and Outdoor Footwear

Spring has sprung and in Colorado that means drying trails and couloirs packed with stable, hard snow. In go the ski boots and from the closet come trail shoes and mountaineering boots. Sadly, my last pair of shoes died a grizzly death at the hands (feet?) of my extra-wide pinky knuckle because I was too lazy to lace them correctly. Below are my tips on funny looking lacing for funny looking feet. My 2016 Lone Peak 2.5's – ready for the trash bin thanks to a 2" long hole. F

HikerBox

HikerBox in Technique

Hunting Season Hiking and Backpacking Considerations

Fall – a time of the year when the crisp air is enjoyed and the greens of summer are replaced with hues of orange and yellow. And, it’s also the time that we as hikers contend with hunting season. Strategies for hiking during this time range from doing nothing different at all to simply staying home, and while hunting season is a worthy pre-hike consideration, by taking a few steps and modifying our gear and routine just a bit, we can continue hiking during hunting season with a few changes to o

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Technique

Biking Going to the Sun in Glacier National Park

The early-season opportunity to bike portions of Going to the Sun in Glacier National Park without any automobile traffic seems too good to be true. Miles of paved road passing alongside streams rushing with snowmelt, climbing into the high country, weaving through lush forests – all behind a gate and open only to bicycles and foot traffic. I’ve done enough recreational road biking and bike commuting to develop a sincere appreciation of a smooth surface, hard tires, and minimal traffic through b

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Trips

Dayhikes in Harriman and Bear Mountain State Park

Living in New Jersey, I’ve hiked all over my state: from the northwest region of the Water Gap, to the New Jersey Highlands (and their frequent view of New York City), to the majesty of the Pine Barrens in the south. I have made infrequent forays into the bordering states of Pennsylvania and New York, hiking a trail or two in both Harriman and Bear Mountain State parks. This past Fall, looking for something a little higher, different scenery, and a little bigger, I decided to explore both Harrim

Greg Jansky

Greg Jansky in Trips

Backpacking in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness

Earth Day was a perfect day, in regards to both weather and spirit, to embark on my first backpacking trip of the year. The destination, the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness, seemed particularly fitting as well as a bit daunting. Covering over 2.3 million acres, this area is one of the wildest places in the Lower 48. With the high country still covered in snow, I would limit my hiking on this trip to a mere five miles on the Lower Salmon River Trail and a short way up the Horse Creek T

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Trips

Along New Mexico's Cabezon Road

I have been exploring interesting and scenic areas in New Mexico for several years. Often these visits have been at the beginning or end of longer trips to places farther west, so the visits are often just a day or so – much less time than the area deserves. I am especially intrigued by the so-called “badlands” of the northwest part of the state. These badland areas include several wilderness areas, including the better-known Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness. I first drove down Cabezon Road to ride my

Steve Ancik

Steve Ancik in Trips

MSR Titan Kettle Review

Some of the best things in life are the simplest. For backpackers, there is a pleasure in sipping hot coffee, tea or cocoa from a sleeping bag that borders on the divine. And behind such a simple pleasure is a simple piece of a gear: a kettle, pot or some other means of warming water. I upgraded from a lidless, stainless steel pot leftover from my brief time in Boy Scouts to the MSR Titan Kettle fairly early in my backpacking days and it has proven to be one of the best gear-related investments

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Gear

A New Mexican Oddity: Hiking to the Paliza Goblin Colony

Even though this sounds like somewhere from J.R.R. Tolkien’s Middle Earth, it is indeed a place here on our Earth, in northern New Mexico. I had already planned a trip in May 2021 to see some New Mexican scenery, and this was right along the route, so I added it to the itinerary, and boy am I glad that I did! Leaving the somewhat boring highway, my hiking buddy Rod and I headed up into the Jemez Mountains where the colony is located. Climbing up higher into the hills, the scenery changed from dr

Steve Ancik

Steve Ancik in Trips

Kahtoola EXOspikes Traction System Review

The EXOspikes Traction System is a product from Kahtoola designed to enhance traction in wintry terrain, and is suited both for hiking and trail running. Sharing some similarities with the popular Kahtoola MICROSpikes, the product is available in multiple sizes, each fitting a range of footwear sizes. A stretchy elastomer harness fits over your footwear, and underneath you’ll find a grid of trekking pole-like metal carbide tips on the forefoot and heel – 12 on each foot to be exact. My size XL p

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Backpacking the Kalmiopsis Wilderness: A 50 Mile Loop

I awoke in the comfort of the back of my vehicle as the Pacific Ocean’s peaceful waves gently moved across the nearby beach. I quickly drove away and soon found myself driving on a remote forest road. Fortunately I had checked road conditions and discovered that I needed to detour to avoid a landslide. The road was bumpy and had deep cracks. My vehicle has all-wheel drive, but not high clearance. With careful maneuvering I arrived at the Chetco Divide/Vulcan Peak Trailhead and the edge of Oregon

Eric

Eric in Trips

Maine's 100 Mile Wilderness: The Narrated Video

As a follow-up to Curry Caputo's excellent Issue 52 article Of Life and of Maine's 100 Mile Wilderness, a story that details a family backpacking journey through the wilderness of Maine and to the top of Mount Katahdin, here is the full narrated, audio version of the story alongside video documenting the entire trip. You can read the original article here in Issue 52, and watch and listen to the video below:

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Trips

Digital vs. Paper Maps for Hiking and Backpacking

Ten years or so ago, questions about smartphones were just beginning to come up in backpacking circles. Questions like “Do you take your phone with you on the trail?” were typically asked. Some – including myself at times, saw little reason to take the extra weight and a potential distraction into the wilderness. Others simply packed theirs along so they didn’t have to leave it in their car at the trailhead where it could be stolen. However, these days you are more likely to hear questions perta

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Technique

A Day Hiking Weekend in Cuyahoga Valley National Park

My childhood best friend moved to Akron, Ohio right after she graduated high school to attend the University of Akron. Being from Virginia and having lived there all my life, I had never really heard of the city aside from its connection to Lebron James (but even about this my knowledge was severely limited due to my lack of interest in basketball). That was seven years ago, and I realized recently that I still had yet to visit despite her open invitation. Feeling guilty and quite aware of how l

Grace Bowie

Grace Bowie in Trips

Solarpad Pro Ultralight Solar Panel Review

Now having tested several solar panels over the years that are marketed towards outdoor use and use on the trail – most of these stay stashed in the back of my gear closet, and are more likely to be something I might use during a power outage at home rather than actually depend on out on the trail. For hiking and backpacking purposes most of these panels are too heavy, just don’t perform well enough, or have significant drawbacks like compatibility with one device, while not being compatible wit

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Garmin InReach Mini: Battery Life with Basic Messaging

Although I’ve been a user of an InReach SE for years – which always met or exceeded my battery life expectations in the backcountry, when the InReach Mini was released – and despite its obvious advantages in the weight and size department over previous InReach devices, I had a few reservations in regards to a possible upgrade. While the weight and size factor would be a step up, custom messaging would be a downgrade – the InReach SE’s message composition already reminded me of text messaging on

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Firepot Spicy Pork Noodles Review

Ever since one of my favorite backpacking meals of all time – the Pad See You noodles from Backpacker’s Pantry was unfortunately discontinued, I’ve been a search for a simple, but good rice noodle dish with an accompanying meat protein. The Pad Thai from Mountain House is a recent meal that ends up being a close contender to my old time favorite, and the latest meal with this theme I’ve tested is the dehydrated Spicy Pork Noodles from Firepot, who makes pre-packaged, just add water dehydrated me

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Food

A Winter Refresher: Backpacking at Chief Joseph Pass

Although I did several trips on cross-country skis and snowshoes that involved camping out in the Northern Rockies in below freezing temperatures for multiple nights, the past few years my definition of “winter backpacking” has either included a US Forest Service rental cabin with a wood stove or a plane ticket to southern Arizona. I still find winter to be a beautiful time of year and I enjoy the heightened elements of the season that seem so magical, but I just hadn’t hadn’t been motivated to

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Trips

  • Blog Entries

    • HikerBox
      By HikerBox in TrailGroove Blog 1
      Spring has sprung and in Colorado that means drying trails and couloirs packed with stable, hard snow. In go the ski boots and from the closet come trail shoes and mountaineering boots. Sadly, my last pair of shoes died a grizzly death at the hands (feet?) of my extra-wide pinky knuckle because I was too lazy to lace them correctly. Below are my tips on funny looking lacing for funny looking feet.

      My 2016 Lone Peak 2.5's – ready for the trash bin thanks to a 2" long hole.

      Fresh Lone Peak 3.0's – they look so helpless!
      Since it was about time to get down to it I figured I'd share what works for me and add in some resources at the end since everyone's feet are different. I generally have two problems with shoes – my wide right forefoot and slippery heels. I have learned to address these issues by lacing my footwear to reduce tension in the front of the shoe and lock down tension at the base of the ankle. First I'll show what I do on my Altra Lone Peak trail shoes, then move to mountaineering boots since boot lacing tends to be different than glorified sneakers. Keep in mind, lacing techniques only go so far and still require a lot of in-store fitting with various brands.
      Lacing Tips and Techniques
      The first technique is straightforward – simply skip some laces where the shoe is too narrow. The tension will still pull down on the front of your shoes but allow some extra width. If this doesn't add enough width, you can try leaving the lace looser there by tying a surgeon's knot (begin by looping your laces together as if you were starting to tie your shoes, but wrap around an extra turn) at the top to allow you to tighten only the upper laces.

      Skipping loops can add width where you need it.
      Next I want to address my heel slip by tying a heel lock. The idea is to bring tension from the base of the ankle down through the heel to prevent the foot from moving up and down in the shoe. Regular lacing only brings tension into the sides. I start by lacing the shoe up to the top hole:

      Next I make a loop:

      Then pass the opposite lace through the loop:

      Tension the laces and you should notice more downward pressure on the top of your foot instead of the usual sideways squeeze.
      I also have the same problems on my mountaineering boots (Scarpa Charmoz), which use a different lacing system and come up higher on my ankle. The first step is easy enough – simply find where your foot is too wide for the boot and skip the nearest laces:

      The heel lock is a little trickier since these eyelets are open at the back. We can get a similar effect by skipping the laces closest to where your ankle starts:

      Then loop the opposite laces through and tightening up:

      Completed heel lock
      Final Thoughts
      That's what I do, but you likely have much different issues so here are some resources that might work better for your funny feet and hopefully something here works for you: a great video covering the heel lock and several additional techniques, endless combinations available on Ians Shoelace Site, and lastly a more British approach to locking down the heel. If not – post in the comments!
    • Aaron Zagrodnick
      By Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog 0
      In the spring of 2011, and after leaving his life as a corporate lawyer, Tyler Coulson set off from the Atlantic Ocean and the Delaware coastline to undertake a western journey across the United States with Mabel, his adopted dog and companion. Destination: Pacific Ocean. Method of travel: Foot. After 3500 miles and millions of footsteps, Tyler recounted the journey in By Men or by the Earth. Of course, there’s a deeper story to most long walks, and Tyler dives into not only the day to day experiences of the walk itself but develops a story that shows the reader why exactly he undertook such an endeavor in the first place. We published an article by Tyler in Issue 4 of the magazine, where he highlights some of the hiking lessons and tips that he learned along the way (direct link to that article here). Even before we published the article, I knew that the book detailing the journey was one I’d have to check out.

      The book is an in-depth and engaging read.
      By Men or by the Earth
      After ordering the book and upon arrival I have to admit that it was as bit thicker than I expected. Then I cracked open the cover – this isn’t a book with a large font and generously spaced lines, like you may have tried to get away with in school to meet a minimum page requirement for a report. No slacking here, the book comes in at just over 300 pages, and there’s quite a bit of text in those 300 pages. However, once I started reading the book I was hooked. I was actually reading a few other books at the time, but I found that they were soon pushed aside in favor of By Men or by the Earth. While it’s long and you get the sense that you’re following along for seemingly every step of the way, that obviously just can’t be the case in a 300 page book.
      The book is written in an interesting arrangement over 3 individual “books” all contained within one cover. The individual books are then broken down into individual chapters. Basically, Book 1 covers the day to day experiences while undertaking the walk, Book 2 covers the time period leading up to the walk, and Book 3 takes place after the conclusion of the walk. The books and chapters are not arranged chronologically. As an example, you might be reading about the walk in one chapter, while the next chapter goes back to the story of the author’s experiences prior to the walk while in law school (or later, a law firm). Then, back to the walk or beyond. In the end 3 separate stories are woven and while they are each unique, you begin to realize just how interconnected each story is and each book becomes intriguing in its own right. Tyler writes in a contemplative and at times conversational style, and isn’t afraid to share the personal and emotional intricacies that are always a factor on such a trip, but are often not touched upon in similar texts.

      As you might imagine, a coast to coast hike doesn’t always have the wilderness opportunities that you might find on some of the other south to north / north to south running thru-hikes you might think of like the PCT or CDT, especially when you consider the time-crunch to get over the Rockies before winter weather sets in. As such, Tyler and Mabel spend their fair share of time on everything from trails to back roads to highways, and spent the night in everything from bear-infested campsites to shady motels. In all situations however, I still found myself turning the page, waiting to see what happened next. And if you’ve ever travelled any type of distance with a pack or even just dreamed of a long hike, it becomes easy to relate. Even if you haven’t, it’s simply a good book that anyone who appreciates a good story should enjoy. And if you both like to hike and appreciate a good story…there’s not much more to ask for.
      Conclusion
      The book does require some commitment, and while not necessarily an “easy read” it’s well worth it. Even if you’re like me, who is at times plagued with a modern technology-induced short attention span, the book is still strangely addicting. It’s the story of a static corporate desk job juxtaposed against a cross-country journey on foot, something to which many of us can relate. You’ll read about the people that are met along the way – the good, the bad, and even the strange. You’ll follow along as relationships are forged and lost, and you’ll be left with a few things that keep you wondering. Overall, By Men or by the Earth is one of the best books I’ve read in quite some time and I think the book can simply and best be described in one word – real.
      If you’re interested in checking out the book, you can find By Men or by the Earth here at Amazon.
    • Aaron Zagrodnick
      By Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog 1
      Over a decade ago now, Justin Lichter (also known by his trail name Trauma) released a collection of insights, tips, and stories detailed across more than 200 pages in his book Trail Tested.
      If you haven’t heard of Justin yet, he’s quite famous in the long distance backpacking and hiking community – having hiked over 35,000 miles in his career. Not only has he completed the Triple Crown of the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide Trails – he’s done it twice. Throughout his travels his dog Yoni has often been a companion, and he’s no stranger to backpacking overseas either.

      Trail Tested includes insights on long distance hiking ranging from gear to technique and more.
      Trail Tested
      I received my copy of the book shortly after the release and at first was struck by just how visual Trail Tested is. Nearly every page is filled with great photos related to the subject at hand, and at the same time Justin’s descriptions are short and to the point – for a how to guide it’s everything that you need to know without being overdone. As such the book is easy to pick up and read in a relaxed manner, and the book doesn’t require too much commitment from the reader for Justin’s insight to come across. Trail Tested covers just about every backpacking and hiking topic that you can think of, ranging from gear to technique and general trail philosophy.
      The book is broken down into 3 main sections, the first section titled “For Starters” focuses mainly on things like gear and food selection. The book then moves into the “Getting the Groove” section (obviously our favorite), which details more advanced topics ranging from winter camping to first aid and photography. “Stepping it up” is the last section in the book, where Justin details practices for making your own gear, hiking cross country, and much more. Along the way quick “Trauma Tips” are included that really highlight some of the strategies that you only find by spending time on the trail – the book will definitely save anyone who is just getting on their feet in the backpacking world a lot of time, but is still a great read for the more experienced members of the community as well.

      The book covers an extensive range of topics and remains an interesting read for hikers of all experience levels.
      Conclusion
      Even after finishing the book, I found that I kept pulling it off the shelf just to see what Trauma had to say about various categories of gear as I continually work to refine and perfect my own gear list and approach to life on the trail. I read straight through the book over the course of a few days, and it will continue to remain in my collection as a quick reference for all things that are hiking and backpacking related. Best of all, the book includes a great index to find what you need fast, and with all the pictures that are included, the book is sure to keep you motivated when you’re just not able to make it to the trailhead.
      You can find Trail Tested at Amazon for about $20.
    • Aaron Zagrodnick
      By Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog 0
      While the potential exists to makes one's backcountry cooking setup nearly as complex as the average home kitchen, albeit hopefully a bit more miniaturized and lighter, in most cases the average lightweight backpacker only needs to boil water for freeze-dried dinners, freezer bag style cooking, to heat and hydrate a basic meal within the pot, or to heat water for things like coffee and tea. For these backpackers – like myself – the Evernew Ultralight Titanium Series pots have been a fairly popular option on the trail and have been my go-to choice for many trips over more than the past decade.

      The Evernew ultralight titanium pots have offered me many years of backcountry service.
      Evernew Ultralight 900 and 1300ml Titanium Pots
      These 2 pots are from the Evernew's "All Purpose" lineup, which also includes a 600ml version (ECA251) not tested here. With a listed weight of just 4.6 ounces and 4.1 ounces for the 1300ml (model ECA253 – measured weight: 4.9 ounces) and the smaller 900ml (model ECA252 – measured weight: 3.85 ounces) options at my disposal, respectively, these Evernew pots are really quite tough despite being so light. I've downright abused the 1.3 liter, including dry baking (not suggested), cooking in campfires, melting lots of snow for a group, and it’s even suffered a few impacts in the outside pocket of my pack from dropping it off ledges while traversing class 3 terrain.

      These pots are more short and squat than tall and thin, and as such catch more heat, heating faster and saving a bit of fuel and are more stable on top of a stove. On the downside, the shape doesn't really lend itself to an effective or satisfying combo for an all in one pot / mug solution (such as something like the Snow Peak 700), although it would work if you're not too particular. The lids fit securely, and don’t seem to require constant re-bending of the pot every time you unpack it in an attempt to get things to line up like some other solutions I’ve used. At times I’ve used a large rubber band with a loop to loop to connection on the lid handle – this allows one to then wrap the rubber band all the way around the pot and lid for even more security in the pack (for example when trying to store too many things inside), but these days I don’t bother and store the pot in the outside mesh pocket of my ULA Circuit also helps to keep everything in place.

      The Evernew Ultralight Series is a great choice for a variety of average lightweight backpacking conditions and applications – although the pizza in the upper left was baked in the 1.3 liter proving it possible, the thin walls may not be best for more in-depth and advanced cooking techniques.

      The handles (which fold for packing) along with the handle on the lid both feature heat insulating silicone material so you can take care of cooking without having to find that bandanna to use as a pot holder. A small pour spout is integrated to minimize spills and to ease water transfer, and measurement graduations can be found on the sides. Evernew also offers the non-stick versions of these as well, but in my experience it's not needed, adds a little weight, and the coating requires care both in your choice of utensils and in your cooking technique to keep from scratching it.

      3 sizes are offered – a .6 liter, a .9 liter, and the largest 1.3 liter version. The .9 liter has been a perfect size for me for either solo cooking in the pot or for two when heating water and rehydrating freeze-dried or freezer bag style meals is all that's required. I will step up to the larger 1.3 liter version when cooking in the pot for two, baking experiments, or when melting snow for water in the winter. I've used these with alcohol stoves and mostly in that case with a Trail Designs Sidewinder Ti-Tri, but most recently I’m usually using them with a canister stove and usually the Soto WindMaster. With this stove, I’m also able to fit a small MSR 110 gram fuel canister in either size, and I’m able to fit a larger 220 gram Snow Peak fuel canister in the 1.3 liter upside down while still being able to close the lid.

      If you like to store your fuel canister inside your pot, turning the canister upside down may help to make things fit.
      Conclusion
      While the thin, scorch-possible walls of the Evernew pots might not be the best choice for the gourmet backcountry chefs among us or for your next morning huevos rancheros experiment on the trail, if you mostly need to heat and boil water, melt snow, or cook the occasional basic pasta meal or beans and rice in the pot like me (low heat and keep stirring!) the Evernew Ultralight Series of pots are hard to beat. Throw in a long handled spoon (the Toaks is my current choice) and optionally some type of mug for coffee (my pick: the Snow Peak 450 – single wall) and you're set. Although the Evernew Ultralight pots are a bit on the pricey side, they're also light, effective, and durable – always a great combination for the outdoors.
      The Evernew Ultralight pots can at times be hard to track down, but you can usually find them in all 3 sizes for around $50-$70 depending on size here at Amazon.com.
    • Aaron Zagrodnick
      By Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog 5
      During an April trip several years ago, Ted Ehrlich and I spent a few days hiking and camping in southern Utah – one highlight of that trip had to be our hike through Buckskin Gulch, one of the longest and deepest slot canyons in the world. With a snowy drive through Wyoming and then a whiteout in Colorado, the drive wasn’t a fast one and I met Ted at a deserted trailhead near Grand Junction around 10pm. From here we’d carpool into Utah. We drove west in the night, eventually moving past the snowstorm and into Utah, where we caught a few hours of roadside sleep.

      We woke early the next day and were met with icy conditions through the higher elevations of Utah on the morning of day 2, but with assistance from ample amounts of gas station coffee we eventually made it, and descended into warmer weather near the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area.

      The plan at least, was to self-shuttle by bike.
      Setting up the Hike
      With only one vehicle for this 20 mile point to point hike, our plan was to self-shuttle. Ted's mountain bike was in the bed of the truck, and that evening we left the bike at the White House Trailhead, our finish point the next day. Our starting point would be at the Wire Pass Trailhead, and after the hike one of us would then ride the bike 15 miles along a dirt road, a highway, then another dirt road back to our starting point. Retracing the ride by vehicle, the driver would return to White House Trailhead to pickup the other hiker. Ted had a shoulder injury and was actually due to have surgery as soon as the trip was over, so the bike ride would be in my hands. With an upcoming 20 mile hike of yet to be determined difficulty, capped with a 15 mile bike ride, I mentally prepared for a somewhat long next day. I knew we’d probably finish the hike late in the day, and I just hoped I didn’t get a flat in the dark halfway back to the truck as we’d both left our flat kits at home. We were already down a tire on the truck from our travels earlier that day along House Rock Valley Road.
      The night prior to the hike we camped at the appropriately named Stateline BLM Campground, located right on the border of Utah and Arizona. The weather forecast had called for nighttime lows in the 30’s, but I struggled to stay warm in my 30 degree Western Mountaineering Megalite. The next morning revealed frozen water bottles, and in the cold we got a later start than expected but managed to make it to the Wire Pass Trailhead by mid-morning. That might have been a good thing, with the sun now high in a cloudless sky temperatures had climbed. There was still a slight chill to the air, but it was perfect hiking weather.


      Signs of travelers past
      Into Buckskin Gulch
      After paying the day use fee, our hike began and we followed a sandy wash, heading east and slightly downhill. Quickly, things began to close in and we found ourselves in shade – we'd seen the last of the sun for the day. We soon found ourselves at the confluence of Wire Pass and Buckskin Gulch, (first photo in this post above) where we admired some rock art, cowboy signatures, and unfortunately, some very modern rock carvings. We didn't linger long with many miles left on the hike however, and quickly made a right and entered Buckskin Gulch proper. We tried to keep our feet dry for a while, but that didn't last long. And the water was cold. Though we'd cross through pool after pool of water throughout the hike, we lucked out and it was never more than around thigh deep.

      Bend after bend – we hiked onward, with our cameras getting a heavy workout along the way. The hiking was easy. Imperceptibly downhill / downstream with sand and gravel underfoot – an occasional rocky section. The main challenge was not falling over and receiving a dunk in one of the many pools encountered along the way – and the water didn't always smell that great. The scenery was hard to believe. And it just kept going. Sensory overload that brought a smile to your face with each turn of the canyon. Flood debris appeared out of reach high overhead; this isn't the place you want to be when a flash flood occurs. I was glad we checked the forecast and there was no chance of rain.



      After a few hours of hiking we ran into a pair of backpackers from Boston, and with our hiking paces at a near equal speed the 4 of us hiked through the canyon for a couple miles as a group. They had planned to overnight near the confluence with the Paria River, then a finish at White House the next day where their car lay in wait. They decided to take a break, and Ted and I pushed on at a quick pace since we wouldn't be stopping for the night. I hiked faster – I didn't want to be riding a bike in the middle of the night. Occasionally birds would fly in and out of the canyon from above, easily navigating in and out of the canyon as they wished. I was surprised to even find life close to the canyon floor, however, some of which was best avoided.

      Ted and I continued to try to maintain a steady pace, but Buckskin Gulch can be distracting. We found ourselves hiking with camera in hand, frequently stopping in an attempt to capture what we were seeing as a photograph. I'm not sure we realized it, but our pace was significantly slowed by scenery, and soon we heard the echo of footsteps approaching. The 2 women we'd met earlier approached from upstream. They'd changed their minds. Making the decision to skip the overnighter and hike through as we were, they offered to give us a ride back to our vehicle at the end of the hike. Not only that, but Ted and I were running low on water, and they'd brought enough for two days. They were looking to reduce their pack weight, and we refilled our supply. I was quite relieved to know I wouldn't be setting out on a 15 mile bike ride, already tired from hiking, as the sun set later that day. Life was good. Now able to slow our pace, we hiked together through the canyon in a leisurely style. Conversation ensued and miles flew by. Soon we found ourselves at the crux of the trip, the rockfall.

      Here, with the help of a rope we all down climbed the main obstacle in Buckskin Gulch. To the right an alternate route around the rockfall / jam existed, referred to as the "Rabbit Hole", but that route appeared to involve a bit of down climbing as well, then a claustrophobic crawl under a pile of huge rocks. We all elected to simply take the steeper, but more direct route down via the rope. The climb wasn't too bad, but you definitely don't want to let go of the rope. We were quickly on our way without incident.


      Soon we came to the end of Buckskin Gulch and the confluence with the Paria River.

      We started to trek upstream towards the White House Trailhead, still about half a dozen miles ahead. Gradually, the terrain began to open up. We crossed the river dozens of times, and peregrine falcons swooped overhead, then observed our trek from the rim above.




      Dry shoes are not an option when hiking Buckskin Gulch and the Paria River.
      Wrapping up the Hike
      We eventually made it to Whitehouse Trailhead as the sun was setting, with soggy feet and shoes full of sand. I was definitely glad for the ride and we soon found ourselves back at the Wire Pass Trailhead and our vehicle, and after many thanks we parted ways with our impromptu hiking companions for the day. Having just finished one of the more memorable day hikes I've ever completed, Ted & I pulled back into Stateline Campground just as darkness fell, ready for dinner, sleep, and a change of socks.

      Other than figuring out where to start and finish the hike, the rest is for the most part, just following the canyon and river bed.
      Need to Know
      Best Time to Go
      Buckskin Gulch is best hiked in late spring and fall. It stays cool within the canyon, so in colder weather the water could be quite chilly. Check with the BLM office in Kanab for current conditions and check the weather forecast for precipitation in the area, as well as the vast area upstream, before you enter.
      Getting There
      From Kanab, UT head east on Highway 89 for approximately 38 miles, then take a right / head south on the unpaved House Rock Valley Road. 8.4 miles later you'll reach the Wire Pass Trailhead. For a longer hike, start at the Buckskin Gulch Trailhead, 4.4 miles from the Highway 89 / House Rock Valley Road intersection. To reach White House Trailhead by car, drive east 4.9 miles from Highway 89 & House Rock Valley Road, take a right and head south on a dirt road. 2.1 miles later you'll arrive at the trailhead / campground – one spot towards the end could be tricky for low clearance vehicles. Stateline (1.6 miles south of the Wire Pass Trailhead) or White House Campgrounds offer good places to setup a staging point.
      Maps and Books
      I printed off USGS topos to cover the route, but never needed them (do however, take a map!). The route is shown on Trails Illustrated 859. For driving in the area I found Delorme's Utah Atlas and Gazetteer very useful. There are many hiking opportunities in the surrounding area. I found the Kelsey guides useful for exploring other destinations close by – you can find them here. Additionally, 50 Best Short Hikes Utah's National Parks, as well as Hiking Arizona are guidebooks that are worth a look for planning additional hikes in Utah and Arizona.
      Information
      For day use, permits are available at the self-serve pay station at the trailhead – $6 per person / dog per day. For overnight use, you'll need to get a permit, try to pick one up in advance as they tend to go fast. If you happen to pass through Kanab, consider getting there early and entering the lottery to visit The Wave. Most of the time a use at your own risk rope will be in place at the rockfall, but it's best to take a suitable rope for lowering packs and yourself over the edge. You could possibly sneak through the "Rabbit Hole" as well, but it can at times be blocked by flood debris. If you keep a close watch, a few seeps and springs may be available for water resupply along the way. Commercial shuttle services are also available if needed.



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