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Since my sister Melissa retired, we have taken several hiking, backpacking, and photography trips together. This time, we headed to Colorado and New Mexico for another adventure. Melissa has wanted to hike to Wheeler Peak for years. I’ve wanted to see the Wheeler Geologic Area for years. So, we combined the two desires into one awesome trip – The Tale of Two Wheelers.
Hiking & Exploring Wheeler Geologic Area
We started off early on the morning of July 5th and headed west across Oklahoma, experiencing a spectacular sunrise out of the rear-view mirrors on the way. We camped our first night in the Spanish Peaks area of southern Colorado, then the next morning, we headed to Hanson’s Mill near Creede. The road to Hanson’s Mill (apparently the site of an old lumber mill no longer in existence) is fairly well graded and accessible by most vehicles. The area at the end of this road has several campsites, but it is a fairly open sun-drenched area (due to dead trees having been cut and removed), with only a few scattered standing trees.

The only facilities here are a vault-type toilet, a few picnic tables and fire rings, but no water or refuse receptacles. Beyond Hanson’s Mill, the route (Forest Road #600) quickly deteriorates into a one-lane, rough, rocky four-wheel drive, high clearance road for 14 miles. It took us about 2 ½ hours (with a few photo stops) to arrive at the end of the road at the trailhead for Wheeler Geologic Area. There is an 8-mile long hiking trail (Trail #790) that begins at Hanson’s Mill, which would be the alternate way to the geologic area if you don’t have a car capable of the rough 14 mile drive.
The Engelmann spruce forest in this area has been devastated by spruce broom rust (caused by a fungus) and spruce beetle epidemic which has killed vast stands of the spruce. The old forest was already stressed by disease and weakened by extended drought and a warmer climate when the beetles were able to really start their attack. Today, though the epidemic has slowed – killing almost all the trees susceptible to the outbreak – it continues in isolated pockets.
Younger trees seem to be healthy, as confirmed by a college-aged forester along the road, to whom we spoke. She described the forest and how the beetles kill the trees, how they are a natural part of the cycle, how climate change has contributed, etc. The forest service has been putting pheromone packets on some trees which signal to the beetles that “this tree is already full” to prevent the beetles from infesting the healthy trees. Eventually, this forest may look better as the older, still-standing dead trees fall and the younger ones grow up, but for now, it is surely sad to see.

According to the descriptive signs at the trailhead, 30 to 40 million years ago, lava flows that were nearly 4,000 feet thick covered an area of 9,000 square miles. Then about 29 million years ago, a massive pyroclastic (ash, dust, volcanic rock, and pebbles) eruption engulfed the area, producing large quantities of volcanic ash, also known as tuff. For nearly three million years, thirteen volcanoes covered the area with up to 3,000 feet of ash. Subsequent erosion has exposed this ash, resulting in the spectacular scenery of the area.

At the end of the rough road, there are several dispersed camping sites in the fields and woods at the parking and turn around point (in this area there seemed to be fewer dead trees), and we chose a spot and set up camp. We then loaded up our day packs and began our hike, which begins at an elevation of 10,840 feet. We hiked the Wheeler Loop counterclockwise, with a side hike out to Halfmoon Pass, then back down to the Wheeler Loop and on around the loop. Coming from 1,200 feet with very little time to acclimate to the elevation, we found it to be a very strenuous hike, especially me. At the top of the pass, there was a small patch of snow, so we took photos of each other throwing snowballs.

As we continued, we finally arrived at the reason we were there in the first place – the bizarre eroded rocks of volcanic ash. The actual area isn’t huge, but it is quite spectacular. The light-colored volcanic tuff has been eroded into spires, steep cliffs, towers, castle-like shapes, and, if you use your imagination, goblins and gnomes. We almost got there too late – the area faces west, but is partly blocked by some higher cliffs to the west. When we arrived, the sun was getting low and parts of the ash layers were already in shadow. We still got some good photos, but if I were to do it again, I would take the hike clockwise and see the formations first. Our hike here was 6 ½ miles long with around 1,800 feet of climbing.
Over the next few days we visited the town of Creede, hiked to several waterfalls in the area, drove on some crazy 4wd roads, went to Crested Butte to see the wildflowers (Wildflower Capital of Colorado), and then drove south to Red River, New Mexico.
Hiking Wheeler Peak
For our final hiking day of the trip, we drove to the Taos Ski Area where the trailhead for our Wheeler Peak hike starts. The trailhead is at an elevation of 10,200 feet, and starts off as a fairly wide, well-used trail. It slowly climbs over the first couple of miles to a turnoff to Williams Lake. The lake, at an elevation of 11,040 feet, is a short distance away. We stopped just before the lake for a snack and to take some photos.
There were quite a few tents on both sides of the lake and a lot of people on the trail to and from. Having had a week to acclimate to the elevation, this first part was not nearly as difficult as our initial hike at Wheeler Geologic Area. It naturally got more difficult on the hike up to the peak. From the lake, we returned to the intersection and headed up the trail to Wheeler Peak. The trail starts off in dense woods where we heard and saw numerous birds. As you climb higher, the trail finally gets above the treeline, and views open up.

From the trail, the destination peak is visible, as well as some of the switchbacks yet to be climbed, the Taos ski runs, and several other nearby peaks. And below, in the distance, we spotted Williams Lake several times – those tents looked very tiny from this distance and elevation! After leaving the woods, the switchbacks happen more often and the trail gets steeper. In several spots the trail crosses large scree fields (broken chunks of rock of various sizes that have tumbled from above and settled on the slope), which are places we had to be extra careful so we didn’t twist an ankle or fall. The last quarter mile, just before you arrive on a ridgeline, is the steepest with dust, sand, and small gravel on the trail bed.
Once on the ridge, it’s a short (and easier) hike to the actual peak. Wheeler Peak stands at an elevation of 13,161 feet. There is a plaque and a register to sign there. When we arrived, there were a dozen or so people on and around the peak, but most were in a group and soon left, leaving us with just a few others. We took the “mandatory peak photos” (thanks random citizen!), had a quick lunch (thunderstorms were brewing in the distance), and then headed down. Going down uses muscles in a whole different way – knees bent, tiny steps so we didn’t slip, and constant braking.

We had put on jackets up top, but soon stripped them off because of the exertion. We spotted a couple of raptors flying and doing high-speed dives at one point (we heard the whoosh of the air past the feathers of one). The rest of the hike down was uneventful. We arrived back at the car, quite tired but satisfied by this epic hike. The hike was a total of 9.4 miles round trip with 3,094 feet climbed and descended. It took us 6 ½ hours to complete the hike.

The next day, our drive home was long but uneventful. This was a great trip, and we saw so much! Waterfalls, mountains, rivers, mountain lakes, rough roads, and enough scenery to make us quite content (for a while). On top of that, we accomplished two long-term wish list items and took hundreds of photos. Let’s go do another!
Need to Know
Information
There are no fees or permits required for either of these hikes. Driving to Wheeler Geologic Are requires a high clearance vehicle, preferably with four wheel drive (although we did see a Subaru Crosstrek along the way (I wouldn’t recommend it). Camping at the end of Forest Road 600 is limited to first come, first serve. Parking for Wheeler Peak is at the Taos Ski Valley. There are a couple of other longer hikes to Wheeler Peak, with different parking locations.
Getting There
Wheeler Geologic Area is near Creede, Colorado. From Creede, travel southeast on Colorado Highway 149 for 7.3 miles, to the intersection of Colorado Highway 149 and Forest Road #600 (Pool Table Road), then approximately 9.5 miles northwest on Pool Table Road #600 to Hanson’s Mill. From here, a high-clearance 4wd vehicle is needed to continue the 14 miles to the Wheeler Geologic Area Trailhead.
Wheeler Peak is north of Taos, New Mexico. From Taos, travel approximately 4 miles north on US HWY 64 from Taos to the junction of NM State HWY 150, then east on HWY 150 to Taos Ski Valley. Continue through the Taos Ski Valley parking lot, veering left up Twining Road. Twining Road is approximately 2 miles long and contains several switchbacks. It will be fine for most vehicles in the summer and fall (4x4 in winter). Follow signs for the Williams Lake Trailhead and the Bavarian Lodge and Restaurant. Park at the large parking lot on the right as the road levels off (this parking area is before the Bavarian).
Best Time to Go
Both of these places are late spring to summer to early fall destinations, typically best from May or June through October. Both can experience thunderstorms (particularly in summer) with lightning, usually in the afternoon.
Maps
Trails Illustrated 139 La Garita Cochetopa Hills as well as Trails Illustrated 730 Taos Wheeler Peak. For getting to and from trailheads and exploring other hiking opportunities in the region see the Delorme Colorado Atlas & Gazetteer as well as a New Mexico Atlas.
Editor's Note: This article by contributor Steve Ancik originally appeared in Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

Experience is certainly the best teacher, or at least the most effective, but when it comes to backpacking, it is far better to learn from others’ mistakes than to make them ourselves. Suffering the consequences of poor judgment or inadequate preparation can be uncomfortable at best. In the twenty years I’ve been backpacking and across a wide range of scenarios throughout the country on every type of trail, I’ve made plenty of my own mistakes and learned a great deal about preparation and training for ambitious multi-day hikes.

In recent years I’ve taken up hiking in the Grand Canyon, where bail-outs are not as easy as hitchhiking on the nearest county road. As the signs at the canyon say, “Going down is optional, coming up is mandatory.” Don’t overtax the staff at the Park Service with avoidable issues of dehydration or blisters, but rather, be prepared! My excursions into the canyon have helped me fine-tune my approach to training and preparation for backpacking, and I continue to learn from others more expert than myself. Whether deep in the abyss of the Grand Canyon or high atop a peak in the Rockies, there are some fundamentals that should be considered for any backpacking trip.
Prepare Your Body: Training & Physical Conditioning for Backpacking
Human beings are very adept at self-deception, and one area in which we are most talented is overestimating our physical conditioning, then failing to test ourselves adequately before we attempt some epic undertaking. I’m a strong believer in maintaining a constant level of conditioning that will allow me to “train up” for a backpacking trip within a couple of months. Some may go backpacking so often that they don’t need to “train up” at all but I only do one or two major backpacking trips a year, necessitating a ramp-up each time.

There are two aspects to preparing your body: one is conditioning yourself physically to carry a certain load over a certain type of terrain for a certain number of miles. The other is testing your physical and mental toughness and readiness for those certainties before you put yourself out there in a remote wilderness situation.
To maintain a high level of fitness, I run two to three times a week, do strength training three times a week, and walk on the days I don’t run. When I am preparing for a backpacking trip, I add the stairclimber to my gym routine and start carrying my backpack with heavier and heavier weights on longer and longer hikes as the date of my trip approaches. Training for steep ascents and descents is the biggest challenge, since I live in the flatlands, but there are multiple ways to address this.

In the gym, you can use the stairclimber and do step-ups to help prepare your legs for ascending. Walking backwards on a treadmill at maximum incline and pulling/pushing sleds also help. Of course, if you live in a mountainous area, this may not be a problem for you, but the main thing is to hone your body to become accustomed to the conditions you will experience on your hike, and finishing your training with the assurance that your physical conditioning (and mental toughness!) is up to the task. Neglecting this will make your experience far less enjoyable.
It should be noted however, that overdoing it is a possibility. The last thing we want is to have to cancel a planned trip because we injured ourselves by over training for it.
Prepare Your Backpacking Gear: Packing List & Considerations
I’m often asked, “What is the most important piece of gear for backpacking?” The answer is footwear. It’s no surprise that you need to wear a well broken-in pair of shoes or boots and, like your body, footwear is something you need to test in training. Wear the shoes or boots you plan to hike in while you are getting in shape for the hike. That way you will find out whether your shoes give you blisters or rub hot spots, or have any other issues.
Footwear
Should you wear hiking boots or trail runners? It’s a personal choice, with trail runners becoming more and more popular, but if you are carrying a heavy pack the ankle support of a hiking boot may be beneficial. I did my first Grand Canyon backpacking trips in Keen hiking boots but used Hoka Speedgoat trail shoes for a rim-to-rim day hike and a rim-to-river-to-rim day hike. Both worked well for the task at hand. For more on footwear, refer to this guide on the TrailGroove Blog.

And, good socks are essential. Look for Merino wool and synthetic materials, and stay away from cotton – other materials offer much better performance. Some hikers wear hiking gaiters to keep out rocks and sand, and this isn’t a bad idea. I wore gaiters on my rim-to-rim hike because of what I read about deep sand on one section of the trail but this proved to be a non-issue. Still, gaiters are not a bad idea if you are wearing trail shoes and want to prevent debris from invading your footwear. In some places, snow and ice are a consideration. Microspikes are handy in this case and I used YakTrax on one of my late spring backpacking trips in the Grand Canyon.
Backpacks
Second only to footwear, a properly fitted backpack is your most important piece of gear. It may be tempting to borrow a pack from a friend but if that friend’s body is not exactly the same as yours it could be a mistake. Go to an outdoor store and get fitted for the right pack. Look for a lightweight pack but think twice before sacrificing comfort.
It may seem counterintuitive that a lighter pack would not be more comfortable, but I prefer my 3.5 lb. Osprey to my 1.5lb. Osprey because the hip belt on the heavier pack is more substantial and distributes the weight better. With any pack, test, test, test. These are items that I’ve found are particularly important to have dialed in and may require a few tries to get right prior to a trip (find more backpacking gear articles here).

A successful backpacking trip starts with planning and packing at home.
General Backpacking Gear List Overview
Backpack Tent / Shelter & Accessories Sleeping Bag Sleeping Pad Backpacking Pillow (or stuff sack w/ spare clothes) Trekking poles (optional, suggested) Water Treatment & Water Storage Backpacking Stove, Fuel, & Cooking Gear / Utensils Lightweight Headlamp and Extra Batteries Lighter Small Pocketknife Food, Proper Storage Bear Spray (depending on destination) Toiletries & Hygiene Kit Clothing for the Weather & Extra Clothing / Rain Gear Map & Compass First Aid Kit Whistle Satellite Communicator Permits Additional Resources
Some specific links are included above (when not otherwise linked to in this guide) for additional reading, and you can find all of these items here at REI Co-op. You can again find more information and specific articles on just about all of the above categories here on the TrailGroove Blog.
It's Backpacking: Keep Your Pack Weight Down
No one doing a three or four-day backpacking trip should have to carry more than 30-35 pounds. I’ve heard the rule of thumb as one-quarter of your body weight, and 30 pounds is more than that for me. But if you weighed 200 pounds, there’s still no sense in carrying a 50-pound pack just because you can…unless of course you prefer many heavier creature comforts. In general though, lighter pack weights lead to more successful longer hikes. In training, I gradually increase pack weight on training hikes, using the contents I will actually carry on the hiking trip. I once put a dumbbell and bags of beans and rice in my pack but that did not work out so well. Replicate your planned hiking experience in as many ways as possible.

Make a formal gear list and weigh everything using a backpacking scale. Don’t take anything you really don’t need, although it does take experience to determine what “need” truly means. For instance, I do now carry a one-pound chair when I backpack because it’s worth it! When it comes to gearing up, checking out the gear selection at REI Co-op is a great place to start.
A Note on Trekking Poles
I am frequently astonished that anyone would question the need for trekking poles, especially when carrying a heavy pack. I’ve found that poles are extremely helpful on uneven terrain and they are of critical importance in taking the load off my knees when I am hiking downhill, as well as giving me an advantage when ascending. With poles, I have the added advantage of my upper body strength to help with the movement, almost becoming a four-legged animal. I prefer the collapsible (bungee-cord) kind to the telescoping poles.

To me they seem more stable and reduce to suitcase size if you are flying. I have an old pair of Black Diamond poles I have used so much I recently had to replace the wrist straps. Otherwise, they are in good condition. I prefer cork handles as they provide better ventilation for your hands. I usually wear cycling gloves when using poles, however, as this protects my palms from rubbing. See the TrailGroove trekking pole guide for more info.
Know the Route: Backpacking Trip Planning
Phone apps have become increasingly popular in recent years, but they cannot replace a paper map. Things can happen to your phone and trails can sometimes become obscure. It’s fairly easy to follow trails in a place like the Grand Canyon but not always so in the deep woods. Thankfully, most “official” trails are well blazed, although distractions can lead to following what seems like “the trail” but actually is not. If you get to a point where you can’t see any more blazes, go back to the last blaze you saw and start again. You will often see the next trail marker when you take another look.

Before you set out on your adventure, catch up on the latest trail reports for your destination. Closures, detours, etc. can all happen at the last minute. Online resources include, but are not limited to park websites / groups, trip reports, and even an old-fashioned call to the ranger station can be a great way to keep up. Plan in advance if permits are required and make sure you obtain those beforehand or ensure that you can obtain them in person once you arrive. Additionally, familiarize yourself with regulations prior to a trip.
Once the plan and itinerary is set (and despite modern satellite communication devices, I still like to make someone else aware of this prior to setting out), one of the last things that is typically done is getting that food packed – the right food, the right amount, and the right way to pack it are all important considerations. You can find more on packing backpacking food here.

As a last step, check the weather forecast before you head out so you’ll know what to expect and can plan accordingly. It is obviously ideal to have the gear you’ll need for any weather occurrence no matter the forecast, but if it will be particularly cold for example, swapping in the warmer of two insulating jackets or a pair of warmer socks to sleep in can be considered…and so on for other types of anticipated weather conditions.
Getting Ready for a Backpacking Trip: Conclusion
There’s so much more to backpacking, but you get the idea. Learn all you can, test yourself and your gear, and prepare carefully. New backpackers will benefit from a trial run with an overnight backpacking trip close to home to test body, gear, tent, sleeping system, cooking setup, et cetera. One can gradually ramp up from there. When you get it all dialed in, it’s a beautiful thing. Have fun out there!
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here with additional photos.

For some reason gaiters were one of the “accessory” pieces of backpacking gear that I delayed purchasing far longer than I should have. Trekking poles likely would have fallen into the same category, but fortunately for my knees I received a pair as a gift early in my backpacking days. It was only after I moved to Montana and began adapting my backpacking to a different landscape – the Northern Rockies is quite different from the Southern Appalachians – that I bought my first pair of gaiters. There may be no single best hiking gaiter – as since then, I’ve acquired three pairs of gaiters, all suited for different purposes, and it has been a rare backpacking trip where I don’t start out wearing a pair or have them stashed in my pack.

Keeping debris out of your shoes, dew-soaked vegetation from saturating your pants, or helping rainpants better do their job in a deluge – most gaiters excel at all these tasks. For specific conditions or activities, like with all backpacking gear, there are certain types of gaiters that will be better suited than others. While you could wear the same gaiters snowshoeing as you do on a summer trail run, you’d definitely be better off using ones designed with the distinct requirements of those activities in mind.
The All-around Backpacking and Hiking Gaiter
For all-around backpacking use, the Rocky Mountain Series (which comes in high and low versions) by Outdoor Research are hard to beat in regards to price and efficiency. These water-resistant gaiters (the lower half is coated to assist with this, while the upper is uncoated to assist with breathability) are ideal for most three-season backpacking and have proved as effective at keeping out lingering snow when postholing in Montana’s Welcome Creek Wilderness as they have been at saving pantlegs from being shredded by unruly vegetation when bushwhacking in Washington’s Glacier Peak Wilderness. When paired with rainpants, they’ve been a saving grace during daylong rains in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness in Idaho and allowed boots and socks the luxury of only being wet at the end of the day and not soaked.

While these gaiters are nothing short of excellent in most circumstances, I did have some durability issues with my first pair. The stitching on the Velcro on one pair blew out after two hiking seasons of moderate use and the Velcro closure tab at the hook at the bottom of the gaiter began to separate as well. Outdoor Research replaced them at no cost and provided great customer service during the process. Granted, I had put them through some pretty serious off-trail hikes during the two seasons, but by the standards I have for other Outdoor Research gear (and backpacking gear in general) they fell a bit short in the durability department. It is worth noting that the fabric of the gaiters was still in good repair and the foot straps still had a lot of life left in them as well. Hopefully this was just a fluke with the pair I received and not a common weak spot in the product.
Gaiters for Deep Snow
Once the snow piles up and I switch from hiking to cross-country skiing and snowshoeing to access the backcountry, I also switch my gaiters. Although I’ve used the OR Rocky Mountain High gaiters with minimal issues in dry, powdery snow, my go-to winter gaiters are made by Atlas Snow Shoe Company and feature a waterproof lower, waterproof-breathable upper (Marmot Membrain in the pair that I have), and microfleece lining for warmth on the upper section. I’ve found these gaiters to be a nearly perfect piece of equipment for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, as well as hiking, in all types of winter conditions. The durability has been excellent, even when getting scraped by snowshoe edges when treading my way through dense lodgepole stands. I’ve never seen these gaiters wet-out even when in some very slushy snow conditions and the fleece adds a nice touch of insulation without seeming to contribute to cause too much head to build up when engaged in strenuous cross-country skiing.
My only complaint with these gaiters is that they've been discontinued. However, hopefully this provides some example of what you're looking for in a deep snow winter type of gaiter. While the upper breathable section is nice, other options currently available include high gaiters like the REI Co-op Traverse gaiters (you can find our review of the low version of a similar gaiter here in Issue 45). To sum it up, you're looking for a heavier-duty gaiter here, one that adds warmth, and will keep the snow and wet out when combined with appropriate footwear and clothing.

When conditions warm up, a breathable gaiter will be the best choice.
Lightweight and Summer Gaiters
When the conditions – both trail and weather – are on the milder side, I have a pair of the discontinued REI Co-op Activator gaiters that provide just the right amount of protection whereas a high waterproof gaiter would be overkill. These gaiters pair perfectly with trail runners and excel at keeping out the irritating sand, tiny rocks, and debris that can be hard to ignore but frustrating to have to stop and remove. I’ve used these for hiking as well as trail running and have found them to be adequate but not excellent at their ability to stay in place when properly adjusted.
Oddly, these have to be fitted onto the shoe and the foot inserted through the gaiter and then into the shoe (at least that’s the only way I’ve found to do it, but then again I could just be making things more difficult than they need to be, which wouldn’t exactly be a surprise), but this does allow for the coverage and positioning of the gaiters to be dialed in. Although the Activators are no longer made, what you're looking for here is a low, breathable gaiter. A modern-day example can be found in the REI Co-op Flash gaiter.
During something like a trail run around a low-elevation lake in Montana, with some early season snow patches to run through, these types of gaiters will do a good job of keeping the snow out and don't seem to wet out even with extended sections of melting snow to contend with. Unsurprisingly, a non-waterproof gaiter will be the most breathable and will be the gaiters most appropriate for those who hike mostly on open trails in areas without an abundance of precipitation.
While not having gaiters wouldn’t exactly ruin a trip in the same way that forgetting the stove or not bringing a warm enough sleeping bag would, they most certainly improve the comfort level measurably. And fortunately, there are a plethora of gaiters for distinct conditions and activities.

A waterproof breathable mid-height gaiter is a good all-around choice for colder weather hiking.
Final Thoughts
The gaiters reviewed here represent a good sampling or the most common types and can hopefully guide you towards the type that you would want to purchase for the activities and conditions you most frequently engage in. The Rocky Mountain high and low series of gaiters from Outdoor Research run around the $50 mark here at REI, and the REI Co-op Traverse gaiters go for around the same price (view at REI). REI’s Flash gaiters can be found here. However, there are many other options available no matter your preference for high or low, waterproof or not. You can view a wide selection of hiking and backpacking gaiters here at REI.com.

Both a prerequisite for the enjoyment of any day hike and critical for the success of any extended backpacking trip, our choice of a hiking shoe or boot is one of the most important gear related choices to make and dial in prior to any outdoor excursion. Not only does the best hiking boot or shoe depend on fit and our own individual preference, but the best options will also vary widely by season – although many options can also be workable across more than one season, or even with a few caveats year round.

A selection of lightweight, breathable trail running shoes. Most hiking shoes should last you at least 500+ miles, more for hiking boots.
Footwear for Early Spring and Late Fall
Characterized by cool to temperate weather conditions with moisture being frequently encountered from many angles including precipitation, light snow, river crossings, and just overall soggy or muddy conditions (i.e. “mudseason”), feet will likely stay pretty warm on their own – as long as they’re dry. Thus a waterproof / breathable option (Gore-Tex, eVent, proprietary membrane) can be very suitable for these conditions and shoes with these technologies are offered in a wide array of styles.
Water resistant trail running shoes, like the Altra Lone Peak waterproof line can be one way to go if you prefer a trail running shoe, or for conditions where you’ll be moving fast (including trail running) and only light moisture may be encountered. Alternatively another option to take a look at would be the Salomon X Ultra line (view at REI), which is offered in low and mid-height versions using Gore-Tex (also offered in non-waterproof versions for milder weather).

Many of the best hiking boots will feature a Gore-Tex waterproof breathable lining.
Slick conditions will frequently be encountered, and snowy conditions are par for the course in mountainous areas from remaining winter snow in the spring and new snow as winter approaches in the fall. Thus a little ankle support from a mid-height boot can offer some reassurance...which will also help further to keep snow and mud out. And admittedly on any soggy backpacking trip with a waterproof / breathable shoe, it’s always nice to hike through the mud all day and still have clean feet at the end of the day when it’s time to crawl in the sleeping bag.
Some hikers who, like myself, prefer to hike in trail runners whenever possible do have success pushing trail runners into these seasons and cool to cold, wet conditions by adding waterproof breathable socks, and while this technique has worked for me in the past, at some point I simply find it more comfortable to bite the bullet and wear hiking boots of the waterproof variety when I head out in these conditions.
Summer Hiking / Backpacking Shoes
With hot and mostly dry hiking, except perhaps for the occasional water crossing or summer rainstorm, summer is ruled by footwear of the non-waterproof and very breathable variety. Trail running shoes vs. boots is up to you and your preference for mobility and light weight vs. ankle support and protection, as well as pack weight, but in these conditions a breathable shoe will keep your feet more comfortable throughout the day, increase comfort and reduce the likelihood of blisters and hotspots, and dry faster overnight.

While our shoes or boots may get wet from the occasional water crossing or rainy day…once things dry up and with warm to hot temperatures, the simple act of hiking dries the shoe as we go along during the day. In contrast a traditional hiking shoe made from leather and / or utilizing waterproofing layers will hold sweat or outside moisture in, and in rather miserable fashion sometimes day after day while backpacking. Usually summer is also the time where our higher mileage backpacking trips are planned, and staying light on your feet helps greatly in this regard. Popular lightweight options include trail runners such as the Altra Lone Peak and the Brooks Cascadia, and for a boot option the non-waterproof version Merrel Moab Mids can frequently be seen on the trail.
Best Winter Footwear Options
True winter hiking and backpacking are where things start to get specialized, keeping feet dry and warm is key, and keeping your feet dry doesn’t mean your feet will necessarily be warm at this stage. Here we know we’ll be encountering deep snow, and waterproof mid-height to higher winter boot options will be sufficient at keeping snow out as long they are compatible with another key piece of winter gear – your gaiter choice – and for cold conditions two things can be helpful: a vapor barrier liner and going with an insulated boot.
Insulated boots are typically insulated with Thinsulate, proprietary insulation, or even space age type materials like Aerogel, and are typically rated by a temperature rating (usually quite generous), and / or an insulation weight spec such as 200 gram, 400 gram, etc., but in all regards the addition of insulation moves this option into a quite specialized category. Even in these conditions, I prefer to avoid a traditional hiking boot with extensive full grain leather, etc. – these boots are often too heavy and considering the leather combined with waterproof membranes, lack breathability.

A 200 gram insulated waterproof breathable boot for backpacking. Many hiking boots will feature a gaiter ring or attachment point towards the toe.
Preferences will vary, but generally in cold conditions the more sedentary you’ll be the more insulation you’ll need – if you are a wildlife photographer or heading in for a day of icefishing, you will probably want the heaviest insulated boot you can get, or you may need to go with a specialized option for something like backcountry ski touring or mountaineering.
For lightweight hiking, backpacking, and snowshoeing purposes however, I’ve found 200-400 gram insulated boots to be perfect for higher output hiking and snowshoeing activities , but as part of a footwear solution. This involves adding in a VBL, gaiters, and a warmer sock solution while making sure the boot is sufficiently sized to accommodate good circulation and the additional gear. Either way, in these bitter cold conditions, test your setup on day hikes first, test both on the move and not, and adjust as needed.
The Lightweight Big 3
Over time I’ve found that for the great majority of year-round backpacking and hiking purposes, having 3 types of footwear options on hand can handle almost any condition very well. A lightweight, breathable trail running shoe is my go-to option from mid to late spring through early to mid fall and for anything from the easiest day hike to the longest backpacking trip. In fact, I find I lace these up as soon as I can in spring and hold out as far as I can into the fall; the light weight combined with the breathability and quick dry times make these a comfortable option for the majority of the hiking season and for backpacking with a reasonably lightweight pack.

For cooler springtime and fall conditions, stepping up to a mid-height, waterproof / breathable hiking boot adds warmth, keeps your feet dry during these times when additional moisture will be encountered and dry times are increased anyway, and the extra height provides a little ankle support on slick, uneven terrain (you can't always tell where your foot will end up in snow), and will help to keep light snow out.
For true winter conditions, a lightweight, insulated winter hiking boot will be well appreciated as temperatures fall into the teens and further to below 0 temperatures. A 200-400 gram insulated boot (depending on activity level) has worked well for me even in extreme cold, and in these true winter conditions I always utilize a VBL and gaiters, providing additional warmth and keeping the interior of the boot dry. If you’ll however, be sitting around a lot, or opt to skip the VBL on day hikes, you will want to swing your choice towards boots of the heavier insulated variety. Keeping the rest of your body dry and warm is also critical in this type of weather (and goes a long way towards keeping your feet warm as well) – but that’s another article.
From trail runners all the way to winter boots, out of the box fit is just one part of the equation. While most of the shoe comfort will be built into the shoe, you can also customize fit and performance using a few lacing techniques that can help take a good shoe to great. For more on lacing take a look at our lacing tips guide which offers a few techniques to help customize your fit.
One Footwear Option to Rule Them All?
With all the previously discussed options in mind, without a doubt hiking shoes are not only a personal choice, but they are for the most part, specifically suited for individual situations. But what if you want one hiking or backpacking shoe that would work well across many, if not most seasons and conditions?
While I’m a big lightweight trail running shoe fan anytime I can possibly get away with wearing them – if I had to pick only one shoe for all conditions, and as much as I might grit my teeth on summer hikes or even stay home when temps fell below 0, I would have to choose a venerable mid-height, waterproof breathable lightweight hiking boot for these conditions.
The mid-height waterproof / breathable boot is perfect for shoulder seasons and in light snow, and provides sufficient warmth in these cool, but not cold conditions while keeping feet mostly dry. These boots are a bit too hot for me for summer hiking, but with a few changes of socks are totally workable for warm, but not too hot, mountain hiking. While an uninsulated boot will be too cold for true winter hiking, they can be used for quite cold temps combined with a liner sock, a VBL setup, and another warmer sock as long as the boot is sized appropriately. Combined with gaiters, this setup will be appropriate for many warmer winter hiking conditions.

The lightweight waterproof breathable mid-height boot is an extremely versatile option across the seasons.
Conclusion
As we've detailed, the best hiking shoes vary by season, terrain, weather, and your personal preferences. Just like the usefulness and performance of an otherwise nice vehicle can be compromised by a set of cheap tires, keeping the right hiking treads on your feet will ensure you’ll be able to make the most out of any hiking and backpacking trip – and if you take care of your feet in the outdoors, they’re sure to take care of you. No matter the solution you choose to go with, fit is of course as important as design, and once you’ve dialed in your own outdoor footwear system – be it a collection of shoes and boots perfect for each season and scenario or an option or two that’s workable across many, all we have to do is lace up and hike.
For a list of hiking / backpacking shoe and boot choices, including everything from trail runners to winter boots and beyond that can be sorted and filtered by the options discussed above, check out this page at REI.

When it comes to backpacking stoves, there are several routes one can take and several different main categories of stoves exist – each with an array of pros and cons. Without a doubt however, no matter which way you go about it the backpacking stove is an important part of any overnight or multi-night gear ensemble. A backpacking stove provides hot meals and drinks, goes a long way towards keeping you warm on chilly mornings and evenings, and for backpacking and hiking a stove needs to be convenient, lightweight, and reasonably fast to use with readily available fuel.

Canister stoves offer proven performance with a convenient fuel source.
The Canister Stove
A canister stove uses a pressurized gas canister for its fuel source, and this fuel can be butane, isobutane, or propane and is usually a mixture of these fuels. These canisters are available in different sizes for varying trip lengths, and if you'll be using the canister in colder temperatures, you want to avoid a canister containing regular butane as its vaporization temperature is quite high in the 30 degree range (translation: your stove may not work / performance will suffer / it may be difficult to use in colder temperatures). However, canisters containing a mixture of isobutane and propane are much more suitable as temperatures drop.
Isobutane will vaporize down to about the 10 degree mark and even lower as you gain altitude, and propane vaporizes down to the arctic-like temperature of minus 44, but there is only so much propane in your usual backpacking canister mix. Canister valves automatically open and close when you connect and disconnect the stove for ease of use and packing, and note that you can mix and match brands here – you don’t necessarily have to match the maker of your stove to your canister brand. As long as the canister has a Lindal valve you are good to go. Popular blended canister fuel brands include MSR IsoPro as well as fuel canisters from JetBoil and propane / isobutane mixtures from Snow Peak.

Inverted canister stoves excel during cold weather.
Either way canister stoves offer convenience: they are easy to carry, usually fuel efficient, simple to use, and the pre-packaged fuel is likely readily available at your local outfitter. While having the fuel contained and prepackaged provides that convenience, they are non-refillable and after a while you are likely to end up with a bunch of canisters that don't have enough fuel to get you through a trip, but aren't empty either. They are recyclable if empty and punctured, and Jetboil makes a specific tool for that purpose. A necessary accessory for any canister stove user should be a digital kitchen scale that measures to the gram – this way you can always calculate the exact amount of fuel inside a canister before a trip. Canister stoves excel at boiling water, but you can dial the flame down and simmer…or even bake…with practice and with the right approach.
Upright Canister Stoves
Among canister stoves, upright canister stoves screw directly into the top of the canister and can be quite light – with many of these stoves falling in the 2-3 ounce range. I’ve used upright canister stoves with isobutane / propane canisters on trips with lows in the high teens, but usage much below these temperatures will become difficult, especially considering that the longer you use a canister in a sitting, the colder it will become – colder than the actual outside temperature – due to evaporative cooling. In cold or cooler temperatures it’s good to keep a few tricks in mind. In cold temperatures you can place the canister in a bit of water inside a container like a shallow bowl if needed to keep the canister’s temperature up and maintain performance, and sleeping with the canister inside your sleeping bag is never a bad idea when temps get chilly to give you a head start in the morning.

Soto WindMaster Upright Canister Stove with MSR IsoPro 110 gram Fuel Canister
Other types of upright canister stoves feature an all in one, integrated canister stove system like many of the system offerings made by Jetboil and options like the MSR WindBurner that are designed to be particularly efficient, at the cost of upfront weight, while saving fuel. These systems may be a good option if your primary need is boiling water. I personally prefer a more typical upright canister stove and like to choose different pots – like those from the Evernew Ultralight Series – depending on the trip.
In recent years several upright canister stove options that utilize a pressure regulating valve have made it to the market, often claiming to increase overall and cold weather performance. While these stoves won't replace an inverted or liquid stove for cold conditions, I have found them to have better and more predictable performance overall when compared to other options featuring a standard needle valve.
Popular upright canister stoves include my current choice, the Soto WindMaster – find our full review here, and a couple classic examples can be found in the MSR Pocket Rocket 2 and the Snow Peak GigaPower. Integrated canister stoves like the Jetboil Zip are also quite popular.
Remote and Inverted Canister Stoves
Remote canister stoves keep the canister remote from the burner and feed fuel via a hose. This allows for two benefits: remote canister stoves let you really shield the burner with a large windscreen to block wind and hold in heat to save fuel while the canister remains outside the windscreen – in an upright canister stove this would make the canister too dangerously hot. Secondly, if said remote canister stove allows you to use the fuel canister in an inverted position, a solution to the colder weather fuel vaporization issues previously discussed is realized, as using the canister upside down feeds fuel in a liquid form where it's subsequently preheated and vaporized at the hot burner of the stove itself in cold and very cold temperatures. For a remote canister stove that allows for inverted use, I use the MSR WindPro II. You can find our WindPro II review here.

MSR WindPro II and Remote Canister
For all types of canister stoves I like a dedicated starter if I can get it, and always look for built in piezo ignition. A separate piezo starter can be used if your stove of choice doesn’t feature one, or a lighter will do the job as well. Piezo igniters can fail, but they can also be replaced. Of course, always have a backup ignition source in your separate fire starting kit, but the convenience of a piezo igniter has far outweighed any small amount of hassle in my experience. No matter if you're using an upright or inverted canister fuel stove, be sure to dispose of spent fuel canisters appropriately.
Liquid Gas Stoves
The bread and butter stove of cold weather camping and for mountaineers alike, liquid fuel stoves like the MSR Whisperlite International are reliable options that burn white gas, or even an array of liquid fuels including gasoline (note that the Whisperlite Universal also runs on canisters). A liquid fuel stove will work well in very cold weather, but most liquid fuel stoves are heavier and more cumbersome to use in regards to the need to handle liquid fuel in refillable fuel bottles, priming the stove, complicated hardware with more moving parts and maintenance etc.
However, if you’re into group or complex meals like baking on the trail, a liquid stove may be hard to beat (options like the MSR Dragonfly are specifically designed with simmering in mind). A liquid fuel backpacking stove is thus perhaps best for the cold weather backpacker, the backpacking chef, or those who desire a stove that will work across all conditions who might not mind the extra weight and the potential hassle of a fuel bottle for 3 season use.
Alcohol Stoves
Alcohol stoves are designed to run on denatured alcohol (available at many hardware stores, etc.), or for my use I’ve always run them on the cleaner highest proof grain alcohol (Everclear). The benefits of an alcohol stove are weight and simplicity, there aren’t any complicated mechanisms or moving parts – you usually just fill and light the stove. With simplicity comes reduced weight, and the stove can even be made from tuna cans, soda cans, and the like. Alcohol stoves can be subject to fire restrictions and require some extra care with the open flame and fuel. I’ve used alcohol stoves across many conditions and my favorite offering is the Trail Designs Ti-Tri system that works well to trap the limited heat that an alcohol stove produces while blocking wind, greatly increasing efficiency. Another venerable alcohol stove option can be found in one of the several Trangia burners that are available.

Alcohol Stove from Trail Designs
Regardless, if you go with an alcohol stove you will definitely want a windscreen of some type. Alcohol stoves usually compete with upright canister stoves; ultimately the choice is up to you regarding which benefits you find most appealing and on longer trips, the increased efficiency of a canister stove may begin to cut into an alcohol stove’s weight savings. Fuel for an alcohol stove can perhaps be easier to find, and alcohol stoves have been popular for thru-hiking and ultralight backpacking usage for some time. With an alcohol stove you can dial in the exact amount of fuel you need prior to a trip instead of having to take a full canister each time, and perhaps taking too much fuel and the extra weight. On the other hand with a digital scale and some partial canisters to choose from, you can get close with a canister as well.
Wood Burning Stoves

Ti-Tri Wood Burning Stove
Many wood stoves exist on the market, with of course the simplest way to cook with wood being a small campfire – which I’m most likely to use when cooking in this manner – although I’ve utilized the combo wood or alcohol burning Trail Designs Caldera Ti-Tri system for this purpose as well. A wood stove won’t beat a campfire in weight carried, but will beat it in convenience and efficiency. Cooking with wood of course requires you collect wood and start a fire, and would have to be ruled out in areas where fire bans are in effect. Wood also leaves residue on pots and the stove, but a wood fire is hard to beat for ambiance, and fuel is free and you don’t have to carry your fuel in your pack during the day.
Chemical Tablet Stoves
Stoves that burn manufactured hexamine chemical tablets like those from Esbit are quite efficient and very lightweight. Like alcohol stoves, you will want a windscreen to maximize efficiency and block any wind here. These tablets and Esbit fuel can be a bit hard to find if you’re in a pinch, but you can of course stock up from online sources. Esbit stoves leave a residue on your cookware and produce fumes, and as I prefer cleaner or more natural burning fuel alternatives, my experience with Esbit or other hexamine stoves is limited, but I can see the appeal for emergency or backup usage. Some ultralight backpackers however find Esbit fuel appealing for its simplicity and light weight. Esbit stoves, like a titanium wing stove, are small, light, simple, and easily carried. Many backpackers would consider alcohol, wood, and solid fuel tablet stoves alternative fuel stoves.
Final Thoughts
As with nearly any other backpacking gear category, there may be no best backpacking stove, but hopefully the above information can assist with determining which option(s) would work best for you. While I own them all, these days my general approach is to take an upright canister stove (the Soto WindMaster) for 3 season use. Only when needed in very cold weather or anytime melting snow will be needed will I reach for an inverted canister stove. That same inverted canister stove – the MSR WindPro II, would work just fine in the summer as well if the extra weight wasn’t a concern.
But whether you go with a one stove to do it all approach or like to mix and match to specifically meet the needs of the excursion at hand, any backpacking stove should ideally be durable, reliable, and have the ability to heat water and cook your cuisine of choice in a reasonable amount of time, and through whatever conditions will be encountered during a trip.
For a full list of backpacking stoves that you can sort by fuel type and many of the points discussed in this article, check out this page at REI.com.