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After setting up the tent on a recent trip and after a long day, I heard an unwelcome sound the moment I laid my head on the pillow – the sound of air leaking from the previously trusty pillow I’d been packing along on trips for years. Luckily, this trip was quite warm for the mountains – lows in the high 40s plus having a double walled tent along meant I had a down jacket that I wasn’t wearing at night, and could roll up in a stuff sack to get me through the trip.
However, for more normal temps when you’re wearing that jacket and any extra clothing in your sleeping bag at night, you'll have slim pickings for a makeshift pillow and a backpacking pillow is (for most of us) needed to get us through the night in comfort. With the pillow I had been using having been discontinued, this opened things up and I decided to give another solution a try as a replacement – the Fillo Elite from NEMO.

NEMO Fillo Elite attached to an Exped Synmat UL7
The NEMO Fillo Elite Backpacking Pillow
The NEMO Fillo Elite is a compact backpacking pillow – measuring 15x11x3 inches and packing to – as described by the manufacturer – the size of a lemon (although in practice, I just throw it in with my sleeping bag). The pillow is listed at 3 ounces, and weighed in at 2.9 ounces on my scale. The pillow features a baffled internal air bladder that you inflate by mouth with a twist lock valve, and then a fabric cover over that with a thin layer of PrimaLoft insulation for comfort and a little warmth. The pillow also packs right into its own stuff sack integrated into the pillow. If you’d like a similar design but with a little more room, the Fillo Elite Luxury Version of this pillow is the same size in width and height but is 21” long compared to the 15” of the normal Elite. You can keep moving up the chain as well if you need to – and if weight is of no concern all the way to the Fillo King Pillow.
Immediately what I liked about the Fillo Elite was its light weight and compactness. What I immediately didn’t like was that there is no way to attach this pillow to your sleeping pad. Although you could use this inside of your sleeping bag hood – I use a hoodless Zpacks Sleeping Bag so this is not possible. With a pillow simply on top of my sleeping pad, I am chasing it around all night and this leads to interrupted sleep no matter how comfortable the pillow itself actually is.
Oddly, NEMO includes a sewn-in loop on only one side of the pillow, presumably for hanging the pillow in storage. If a loop on the opposite side was included attaching the pillow would be easy, but no such luck. However, on the side opposite of the sewn in loop is a tag, which is sewn back upon itself to form something I could use – and by attaching a separately sourced small piece of cordage (something like a shoe lace is perfect, cut down), tying this into a small loop, then tucking the knot back into the NEMO label I was able to create loops on both sides. This way, I can attach the pillow to my pad using this system that weighs very little, but works very well.

Filling the pillow is via a twist lock valve: twist to the left, pull outwards, and this opens the valve to inflate or deflate. This is a little tricky, as the valve will immediately release all the air you just blew up the pillow with before you can close it unless you use two hands and twist it closed while inflating. Despite not being a flat valve, it does stay out of the way on your pad and in use. However, I definitely prefer flat valves that are one-way and don’t let air escape as you’re inflating. It makes the inflation process and fine tuning the inflation level much easier.
Additionally, I’ve found that many pump sacks like the Exped Schnozzel are cross compatible with other manufacturer’s flat valves, and this is the best way to inflate anything be it a sleeping pad or pillow – so that your warm moisture laden breath isn’t being used to inflate. No such luck with the NEMO, so be sure to leave it unstuffed and with the valve open in storage. That said, even after using the pillow on a 5 day trip I noticed no moisture build up in the inner air chamber and inflation does become easier with practice, however it is definitely an inconvenience when, once the air inside the pillow begins to cool and becomes denser after inflation and you’ve probably already fallen asleep and the pillow needs a top off, that air begins to escape as soon as you open the valve. One way valves make things much easier.
Once inflated however, the NEMO Fillo Elite does offer comfort. As a side sleeper I found the height of the pillow adequate and the normal, non-luxury version seen here to be ample as far as size is concerned. The internal air bladder is baffled, slightly stretchy, and cradles your head to some extent (in fact, I think the smaller pillow will do better here). The cover and the thin insulation layer just add to this and give it more of a pillow feel, and add some warmth against your face. While the comfort wasn’t off the charts – it is sufficient for a good night of sleep and at 2.9 ounces, it’s hard to complain, but if you like a pillow with extra height and don’t have anything to put on top of the NEMO, look elsewhere.
Noise can be an issue with the Fillo Elite – when moving around the noise the pillow makes against your ear reminded me of being downstairs when someone is walking around on a creaky wood floor upstairs. For some this may be an issue, however in my case it didn’t interfere with getting a good night of rest. When new or after some use, you can remove the inner air chamber and wash the outer cover. Just make sure you do so by pushing the valve in instead of trying to pull the air chamber out.

The NEMO Fillo Elite packs extremely small.
Conclusion
When it comes to backpacking pillows, there is no magic solution – more comfort simply means carrying more weight. For each one of us it comes down to a balance, and as far as I’m concerned I like to carry the minimum amount of weight (and however much that might be) to get a good night of sleep in the backcountry, but no more than that. The NEMO Fillo Elite strikes a nice balance; at less than 3 ounces I wouldn’t consider it weighing any pack down, and in fact it just may lighten a lot of packs for those who make the switch. The Fillo Elite is definitely not what I’d describe as luxurious, but it’s (much) better than nothing, and better comfort wise than lighter alternatives as well, for a very small weight penalty. If you’re looking for fast and light, but with a little bit of comfort at night, the NEMO Fillo Elite is certainly worth a look.
The NEMO Fillo Elite retails for $60. You can find it here at REI, at Backcountry.com, and here at Amazon.com.

Now nearly a prerequisite before I head out on any backpacking trip, an ultralight backpacking pillow is an item that will add just a few ounces to your pack but might just be at the top of the list when it comes to a weight to comfort ratio. While the choices on the market are almost endless, Sea to Summit’s Aeros inflatable pillow line has become a popular choice. In this review, we’ll take a look at the Sea to Summit Aeros Premium and Aeros Ultralight backpacking pillows.

Sea to Summit Aeros Ultralight (left) and Premium (right) backpacking pillows
Sea to Summit Aeros Pillows: Design & Impressions
Sea to Summit’s Aeros backpacking pillows consist of the Aeros Ultralight and Aeros Premium pillows. Both feature Sea to Summit’s great dual-function inflation and quick deflation valve and a scalloped, anatomical shape. The pillows can be inflated by mouth and I found the valve compatible with the Exped Schnozzle I already have…Sea to Summit also offers an inflation solution and by inflating slightly more than you prefer and then tapping the deflation valve one can easily achieve just the right balance between height and cushion.
The ultralight version as you might expect is the more bare bones model with a more standard fabric outer, while the Premium adds a softer cover with a thin layer of polyester fill between you and the air chamber. The Ultralight is available in a regular (list 2.1 ounces) and large (list 2.5 ounces). The Premium Aeros pillow is listed at 2.8 ounces for the regular, with the large coming in at 3.7 ounces. We tried both models in the large size, mostly for the additional height that’s offered for a side sleeper over the medium. The Ultralight weighed in at an actual 2.65 ounces and the Premium at 4.1. The stuff sacks for each add about 2 tenths of an ounce.
Both pillows have a nice amount of give even when fully inflated (many inflatable pillows can become a rock in this regard) which does help to make the pillow much more comfortable. Both pillows feel comfortable against your face and while the Premium does offer a softer outer fabric in this regard, the polyester fill of the Premium is a really thin layer and doesn’t honestly, offer much additional cushioning in my experience. The baffled shape helps to keep your head in place, and any noise turned out to be a non-issue with either choice.

Unfortunately, there are no included loops to attach either pillow to your pad using our system detailed here, and with this in mind the Aeros pillows are best for those that like to put their pillow inside the hood of their sleeping bag at night. I typically use a hoodless Zpacks sleeping bag, and thus am a bit out of luck when it comes to the Aeros pillows, and have had a few nights testing them out where I was chasing my pillow all around my tent at night. That said, when utilizing either Aeros pillow inside a hood, the sleeping bag contains the pillows just fine and both are quite comfortable, with the Premium winning here, of course.

For me, while I love everything else about the pillows and the Premium is especially comfortable, without any included way to attach the pillow to my sleeping pad my vote would be with the Ultralight since I’d need to bring along a separate pillow case solution anyway. Unfortunately using a hoodless bag, I've found that on especially cold nights I just can’t get a good seal with a pillow inside.

When it comes to the shape of the Aeros pillows, the scalloped shape just isn’t for me, as it almost felt like my shoulders where pushing the ends of the pillow out of the way throughout the night as I tossed and turned. But again like shoes, personal preference very much applies here and as proof, for my backpacking partner Jen the shape is preferred and the pillow is a winner. In her case and as such, her backcountry pillow of choice is now the Aeros Ultralight.

Both the Aeros Ultralight and Premium pillows pack down to a compact and packable form factor.
Conclusion
Overall the Aeros pillows from Sea to Summit are a solid choice, especially if you prefer to put your pillow inside your sleeping bag hood at night. However, the lack of attachment loops on these pillows prevents one from attaching the pillows to a sleeping pad without modifications. That said, if this is not an issue in your case, the pillows offer a reasonable weight and great packability, while offering decent comfort and a stellar valve system. The Aeros Ultralight retails around $45-$65 with the Premium version coming in at $55-$75 depending on size. You can find both pillows here at Amazon as well as here at REI. For more on backpacking pillows, see our backpacking pillow selection guide.

Now having tested several solar panels over the years that are marketed towards outdoor use and use on the trail – most of these stay stashed in the back of my gear closet, and are more likely to be something I might use during a power outage at home rather than actually depend on out on the trail. For hiking and backpacking purposes most of these panels are too heavy, just don’t perform well enough, or have significant drawbacks like compatibility with one device, while not being compatible with another. Unfortunately, none of these USB solar panels have performed well enough where I’d be completely confident relying on them in the backcountry, and it made more sense to just carry a pre-charged powerbank if additional power would be needed on long backpacking trips. That is until I tested the Solarpad Pro 5W USB Solar Panel from a company called Solarcycle.

A backpacking solar panel is always an interesting weight vs. reward scenario – as the panel itself will of course add weight. But can you leave any spare batteries behind that you might have otherwise taken? If so, that can swing the additional weight carried quite low or maybe even negative. On top of that, you need to figure out if in place of a solar panel, if it would just be lighter to pack a powerbank. Keep in mind however, that you’ll likely need a larger powerbank than you think after typical self-discharge and charging losses, typically about 40% – and this means a heavier powerbank. Thus, you can really split hairs here.
The Solarpad Pro
Initially I held off on the Solarpad Pro – listed at 4.3 ounces, once I add in needed cables and a way to carry the panel the weight would get to be more than I’d really want to add to my pack. However, once I received the panel I found that Solarcycle isn’t quite giving this panel all the credit it deserves – the true weight is 3.4 ounces. I assume that the listed weight includes the carabiners that are also included in the package or perhaps the weight was just transposed. The panel retails for about $50.

Not only is the panel lighter than expected, it’s also quite sturdy and feels more sturdy in hand than something like the Lixada Solar Panel we’ve previously reviewed. The panel has more of a sturdy covering on the front – in the form of a laminated somewhat frosted surface, and the USB output is centered on the back of the panel. Metal grommets, 1 on each corner add a way to attach this to your pack. That’s about it when it comes to the exterior design for the Solarpad Pro, though if it folded – it would be a nice bonus for packing. The manufacturer claims that the panel can output 5 watts, equal to a (standard) phone wall charger for example.

Read our Lixada Solar Panel Review for more on theory when it comes to backpacking solar panels, but with my backcountry electronic usage pattern – plus a pattern on trips where I like to spend some downtime for morning coffee, a lunch break, and preferring to setup camp around late afternoon or early evening rather than finding a spot by way of a headlamp after dark, I always have at least some spare time to set up a panel. Additionally, I’m able to stretch the charge of any device I take to around a week, or possibly more depending on the device, by way of navigating with a paper map and using my devices as little as possible. Aligning with the strategies that many hikers utilize to integrate solar on the trail, Solarcycle suggests using the panel to charge a lithium powerbank, then use that to charge your devices. For me however, this is not a preferred method if I can use the panel to directly charge a device. The powerbank just adds weight, complexity, and I’m not using my devices so much that I need find a way to charge all day as I hike in addition to possibly setting up the panel in camp.

However, this strategy does work well with the Solarpad Pro. Attaching the panel to my pack on a sunny day in an area without tree cover, and averaged between hiking in all compass directions, the panel will add about 10% to a 2500 mAh powerbank per hour. While stopped and with the panel aimed directly at the sun, I was able to boost this number to about 33% per hour to the same powerbank. Attaching the panel to your pack will require a little thought – you can use the provided (2) carabiners or do something like run a bungee through the grommets – the latter of which may just get it attached without adding additional weight.

For me however, and while I prefer to not take anything since that saves the most weight, if I have to I’d rather take a solar panel or a powerbank, but not both. Testing direct charging on the devices that I normally take on a trip worked quite well. When aimed at the sun (not just facing upwards), the Solarpad Pro outputs a true to spec 5 watts (or just slightly over). This will add 44% charge to my InReach Mini in an hour and a 32% per hour boost to my camera. It can also charge my headlamp – which uses a rechargeable AA battery – if I bring along a USB battery charger to recharge the Eneloop AA battery I use in the light. My 2020 iPhone SE also works with the panel, but was the only device I had an issue with. Overall, it will add 44% per hour to the phone – but (on the first panel I tried) the charging would reset occasionally. I quickly found out I could disable “system haptics” to stop the buzzing every time the connection reset, and lower the screen brightness all the way down (along with the phone being in airplane mode) since the screen also lights up when this happens. This way, even if the connection resets, it doesn’t cause much of an interruption and as an end result, you hook it up and leave it and it does charge the phone.
Assuming this was just a characteristic of this particular panel but in an effort to prove that theory, I also tested phone charging on a 2nd panel. Disproving my theory and also resulting in a nice bonus, the 2nd panel did not exhibit this behavior and steadily charges the phone without interruption. Additionally, this is one panel (as observed with both panels I tested) that will restart charging on its own if it’s interrupted by clouds or other shade without having to unplug and reattach your phone to get things going again. This is definitely a nice to have feature – although at least in my experience, and while both panels I tested did work to charge all devices, I’d say it’s worth testing everything you’ll want to charge just to see if there are any oddities that may present themselves.

For packing the Solarpad Pro, a .6 ounce Zpacks Slim Dry Bag works great (the panel is pretty much waterproof, but not the USB connector). The dry bag works to protect the panel from rain and can be clipped on your pack, but it will also fit in a gallon Ziploc. You’ll also need a USB cable, I use a 1.5’ micro USB cable that is shorter to save weight, but long enough that I can move the devices being charged into the shade. This cable charges everything I have except my phone, so I add in a Lightning to micro USB adapter and a “Cable Cozy” to keep things organized. You can also find cables like this pre-made. Total weight for me – the panel, the dry bag, cable, and a small Ziploc (for the cable) all tips the scales at 5 ounces, with the optional AA battery charger adding another .75 ounces (using the discontinued Olight Universal Magnetic Charger) since my particular headlamp does not charge via USB. I can also leave a spare camera battery or two behind if I take the setup, saving 1.5 ounces each.

Solarpad Pro ultralight solar panel and charging cable kit
Conclusion
While the Solarpad Pro is the best performing ultralight USB solar panel I’ve come across – will I be packing it on trips? It depends. Fully charged before heading out, I can make it through weekend trips up to weeklong trips with relatively careful usage. And I do wish the panel had a more packable form factor. Where the extra power starts to make sense for me is on trips over a week, or on longer extended trips where you won’t have, or don’t want the hassle, of having to recharge during a resupply. All these factors will of course depend on your own electronic usage level on the trail, but if you hit that point where you’re looking for ways to recharge on the trail, the Solarpad Pro is worth a close look – as long as the weather cooperates, of course.
The Solarpad Pro retails for about $50 (although stock can be a bit intermittent). You can find it here at Amazon.com.

The Soto WindMaster upright canister stove was released in 2013, and has become a popular stove in the upright backpacking canister stove market. Improving upon Soto’s now antiquated Micro Regulator OD-1R stove, the WindMaster was designed to be even lighter and was designed with wind resistance and efficiency in mind. Soto’s micro regulator valve system is utilized in the WindMaster, which Soto claims improves efficiency and operation during cold weather, where many canister stoves begin to falter. Since I’d always have to take along additional windscreens for my canister stoves in the past, the weight began to add up and before trying the WindMaster I had even been taking along an alcohol stove instead on many trips.

Additionally, nights are almost always chilly here in the Rockies, so when using my canister stove I’d always have to toss the canister in my sleeping bag at night to ensure decent performance for coffee the next morning. With the release of the Soto WindMaster stove and its very light weight, I thought I might be able to leave additional windscreens behind, and the alcohol stove vs. canister stove weight gap was significantly narrowed. Additionally, with Soto’s cold weather performance claims, the WindMaster began to stack up on paper as a worry-free alternative to my standard alcohol setup with little to no weight penalty depending on trip length. Since picking up the stove in 2013, the Soto WindMaster has been my go-to stove for more than the past decade.

The Soto WindMaster includes their (more stable) 4Flex pot support, which can be completely removed from the stove and has folding legs for easy packing.
Soto WindMaster Design
The WindMaster is an 11,000 BTU canister stove listed at 2.3 ounces. Instead of a folding design, the optional TriFlex pot support (about $17) is entirely removable for packing, with a clip that secures all arms together and flat when stowed. The optional TriFlex support is designed for pots with a diameter up to 5.5 inches. While the TriFlex was originally standard on the WindMaster, these days their 4Flex support with swing arms is included with the stove, allowing for the use of larger pots and / or greater stability. The 4Flex is spring-loaded, and can be removed for packing if desired. A long wire flip-down flame control handle keeps your hands away from the heat and keeps the handle itself cool when adjusting the flame.
Internally Soto’s micro regulator valve system is utilized as opposed to a standard needle valve arrangement, and a push button piezo-electric igniter is neatly integrated into the stove. Soto doesn’t guarantee operation of the piezo above 10,000 feet, but hopefully you’re already carrying an alternate fire starting solution anyway. In practice, I've used the piezo without issue to 11,000 feet, although your mileage may vary. To gain the “WindMaster” distinction, the burner head is recessed slightly below the outer housing, and the low profile pot supports bring the bottom of your cookpot closer to the flame compared to many other stoves. These features combine to minimize the amount of flame exposed to wind.

The 4Flex pot support arms folded in for storage and packing. The entire pot support can also be removed if desired.
Impressions
At first I was concerned about the TriFlex pot support (this option was the one included with my stove at the time) – would it offer enough stability and would it become a hassle to constantly remove and replace in the field? Additionally, I was quite curious regarding how well the stove would really perform in windy conditions by itself without the benefit of an additional windscreen. More on wind testing later, but upon receipt it became apparent that the stove is a well built and solid product, despite the very light 2.3 ounce weight specification as claimed by the manufacturer.

WindMaster with TriFlex pot support
In hand I measured 2.35 ounces including the TriFlex pot support. By itself the TriFlex support weighs a quarter ounce and the larger spring-loaded 4Flex support tips the scale at just under an ounce. The stove with the 4Flex support weighs 3.05 ounces. Operation of both pot supports is very easy and installation onto the burner head as well as removal takes just a second or two with practice. Just be absolutely sure that you read the manual and have the pot support securely installed prior to use. The optional TriFlex support packs up quite small and blends in surprisingly well with the ground on rocks and in grass, so you’ll definitely want to pack it somewhere secure. Of course, as I learned by experience, be mindful to allow the supports to sufficiently cool prior to removal. On the stove the TriFlex support offered good stability for smaller sized cookware, while the 4Flex support offers excellent stability for both smaller and larger sized pots. At 3.6” tall, the stove does sit fairly high off the canister however, but overall system stability was good on level ground even with the small 110 gram canisters and a 1.3 liter pot.

4Flex pot support coverage example on the Evernew 1.3 liter titanium pot
After you open the valve a bit and click the piezo ignition, the stove lights reliably with a single click or two and you don’t need a stopwatch to realize that the WindMaster heats things up really quickly. Turning up the heat results in a very quick boil – every time I started to think about multitasking while waiting the Soto seemed to beat me to a boil. You’re not out of luck if you need to simmer a meal, or even give lightweight baking a shot – the flame also dials down really low, so much that you can run the risk of the flame being extinguished by a light breeze, and with the micro regulator valve system, flame adjustment is very precise. On many other stoves the flame control is quite rough and it can be easy to accidentally turn the stove off when trying to dial down a small flame.

Over the course of the past decade+, the piezo ignition has needed one replacement (Soto offers a replacement kit if you ever need it), but overall the piezo has proven to be fairly reliable (always carry a backup ignition source).
The stove is on the long side, but packing hasn't been an issue with my cookware of choice. With the pot supports removed, the WindMaster will fit in both of the Ultralight Series Evernew pots I use, including with a 110 gram fuel canister in the 900ml pot, and with a 220 gram canister in an Evernew 1.3 liter pot (for more cookware detail see our 900ml and 1.3L Evernew review). In both cases this required either removal of the canister’s protective cap, or placing the canister with the cap installed inside the pot upside down. If you have trouble squeezing things in using the upside down canister method, place the stove in first. Cookware on the tall instead of wide side worked out too – the Soto fits with a small fuel canister in the Mountain Laurel Designs 850ml pot/mug (a taller, more mug-like design) without incident.

Evernew 900 and Soto WindMaster with TriFlex pot support
Performance Testing
The Soto WindMaster is excellent across both mild conditions as well as in cold conditions and with chilly canisters. Boil times are excellent. Wind performance was also excellent for an upright canister stove without additional windscreening or protection. As expected however, the stove isn’t impervious to wind which still reduced both time and efficiency – but comparatively much less so than you might expect. I tested the Soto in a variety of conditions to measure both boil times and efficiency. For the 68 & 32 degree tests, the air temperature was as specified and the water, stove, pot, and fuel canister were brought to the testing temperature prior to starting each test. The stove was tested using new 220 gram Snow Peak fuel canisters on full power unless otherwise specified. 2 cups of water were used and the test ended when the water was brought to a rolling boil. An Evernew 900ml Ultralight titanium pot was used with the lid engaged. For each test, the TriFlex pot support was used on the stove. The elevation was just over 5000 feet at a barometric pressure of 24.45 inHg. Here are the results:
Test 1: 68F, 0 Wind
Temp: 68F
Wind: 0
Volume: 2 cups
Boil Time: 2:13
Fuel Used: 8 grams
Test 2: 32F, 0 Wind
Temp: 32F
Wind: 0
Volume: 2 cups
Boil Time: 2:25
Fuel Used: 9 grams
Test 3: 68F, 10mph Wind
Temp: 68F
Wind: 10mph
Volume: 2 cups
Boil Time: 6:57
Fuel Used: 21 grams
Test 4: 68F, 20mph Wind
Temp: 68F
Wind: 20mph
Volume: 2 cups
Boil Time: N/A. 174F Max @ 30 Minutes
Fuel Used: 100 grams
Note: Test ended at 30 Minutes (water temp no longer rising)

Boil times were very fast across both testing temperatures with no wind. On paper, the wind tests may look lackluster; however we also tested one of the most popular needle valve upright canister stoves on the market today in the same conditions, and used its optional windscreen. It wasn’t able to bring the water to a boil in the 10mph test after 30 minutes on full power, using 65 grams of fuel. It got close though, a maximum water temperature of 198 degrees was recorded at the 28:25 mark.
Wind is still a factor with the Soto, but relatively speaking, performance was impressive. In the field, seek natural windbreaks like boulders, a large tree, and consider using your pack at a safe distance to help. While cooking, consider sitting directly upwind of the stove to help further, using your body as a shield. Using all these techniques, even if it’s very windy outside you should be able to cut out enough wind in the small area where the stove is operating to remain within the Soto’s performance envelope. Fuel usage for the Soto was good at full power, however I wanted to see if and how much efficiency would be affected by turning down the power at the expense of time.

The WindMaster runs a bit hot to say the least, but while this may not be the stove for the advanced backcountry chef, with practice the flame can be dialed down for slower cooking techniques in a pinch.
Test 5: 68F, 0 Wind
(Stove set to approximately 1/3 of maximum)
Temp: 68F
Wind: 0
Volume: 2 cups
Boil Time: 3:03
Fuel Used: 6 grams
Turning the stove down to medium-low definitely helped efficiency, saving 25% compared to full power, and waiting around 3 minutes compared to 2 is no big deal. Over a long trip, this efficiency could really add up, especially if it saves you from having to bring another canister. Since dialing down the heat resulted in this large of an increase I wanted to take things a step further – running the same test but essentially boiling the water as slowly as possible. Watching the digital thermometer, I turned the heat control on the stove down as low as possible while still maintaining a rising water temperature (68 degree environment). After 12:03 the water was at a rolling boil, and again, 6 grams of fuel had been used. So after a certain point additional efficiency was not observed, but regardless of time, running the stove lower will save fuel.
Test 6: 68F, 0 Wind, 0F Canister
Temp: 68F
Wind: 0mph
Volume: 2 cups
Canister Temp: 0F
Boil Time: 2:08
Fuel Used: 8 grams
The Soto had already performed well in the 32 degree test with a chilly canister, bringing water from an ice bath to a rolling boil in just less than 2 and a half minutes, not much change from performance at 68 degrees. However, with the Soto’s micro regulator valve system and claims for improved cold weather performance, I took things a bit further and left 2 full 220 gram canisters in a freezer for 24 hours at a temperature of 0 degrees Fahrenheit. I then removed one canister to the 68 testing environment and immediately tested the WindMaster using the chilled canister. The stove lit easily without any impression of reduced performance. 2 cups of 68 degree water were boiled in 2:08 using 8 grams of fuel, virtually identical to the performance of the stove in a 68 degree environment with a 68 degree canister.

I then took the second canister from the freezer and repeated the test with a popular canister stove utilizing a standard needle valve system. Compared to its normal 68 degree performance, its boil time was reduced from a 3:45 to 8:44. Fuel efficiency was however identical – the stove with the needle valve took a lot longer, but used the same amount of fuel as it did at room temperature (11 grams). I repeated this test informally again the next day, using the same canisters. Outside & water temperature was 72 degrees with a gentle breeze. The wind really made a difference on this one – the Soto was basically again unchanged, however the tested needle valve stove now took 12:20 using 18 grams of fuel.
Test 7: 68F, 0 Wind, Canister 8 Grams from Empty
Temp: 68F
Wind: 0mph
Volume: 2 cups
Canister Volume: 8 grams
Boil Time: 1:59
Fuel Used: 7 grams
Lastly, it remained to be seen how well the WindMaster would perform on nearly empty canisters (side note: see our backpacking fuel canister guide for more on the best options on the market). Would the design of the Soto and the micro regulator valve system work to maintain output and efficiency not only in the cold, but with canisters holding a low volume of fuel? I took a nearly empty 220 gram Snow Peak fuel canister and ran it down so that only 8 grams of fuel, or approximately one 2 cup boil at full output was left in the canister. That’s it. I then allowed the stove and canister to return to 68 degrees, and repeated the 68 degree 0 wind test as detailed above. The stove boiled in 1:59 and used 7 grams of fuel. With only 1 gram of fuel left in the canister, the Soto’s efficiency didn’t decline and the stove actually ended up using 1 less gram of fuel and boiled slightly faster than with a completely full canister.
Only after I re-fired the stove on its very last gram of fuel did the flame begin to slowly fade until all fuel had been used over the course of approximately 30 seconds. One last weigh in – the Soto had used every bit of the 220 grams of fuel originally in the canister. Speaking of empty canisters (of which there were a few after all this testing!) Jetboil makes a nifty canister recycling tool to help with that process.

Between the removable nature of the TriFlex pot support and the removable and / or folding arms of the 4Flex, I've been able to easily pack the Soto WindMaster inside whatever cookware I take on a trip.
Field Notes
After using the Soto WindMaster for the past decade plus field performance has been excellent across all conditions. Reliability wise the piezo igniter has required one replacement during this time, but otherwise the piezo has performed well in the field and even at altitude, although like any piezo system you'll want to carry a backup method of lighting the stove. Over time I've come to prefer to the 4Flex pot support – while the TriFex hasn't let me down, the 4Flex offers much more stability and I simply leave the 4Flex on all the time, and just fold the arms of the pot support and fold the control valve in and the stove is ready to be packed away. That said, if you only use solo-sized cookware and going ultralight is a priority, the TriFlex support may be a good option.
Save for true winter conditions where I'll take my inverted canister WindPro II stove (you can read our WindPro II review in Issue 33) the Soto WindMaster has been without question the stove I pack along on all other trips. The WindMaster has performed well from low to high altitude and from cold mornings to windy evenings...and from the desert to the mountains on countless trips. And with a more stable burn rate and performance while cooking and while using from full to nearly empty canisters, the Soto WindMaster has offered impressive performance in nearly all field situations.

The Soto WindMaster has proven to have excellent performance across a wide-range of conditions.
Conclusion
The Soto WindMaster lights up like a jet engine at full power yet remains surprisingly efficient – even in less than ideal weather conditions and under changing canister pressure. But it’s not just an on or off stove, the WindMaster allows you to dial down the flame to increase efficiency or for more complex cooking. Performance across a range of ambient and canister temperatures is excellent. Wind is still a factor, but by seeking windbreaks in high winds you’ll be fine without the weight, bulk, and fiddle factor of an additional windscreen.
The removable pot supports are different, but they’re extremely user friendly and quick to attach and detach, and while you should always take a backup ignition source, the piezo igniter is cleanly integrated into the stove and makes things so easy. The price is higher than average in this category, but if fuel efficiency doesn’t quickly make up for the price difference, the performance will. At just 2.35 ounces with the TriFlex pot support, the WindMaster performed so well at times it had us shaking our heads, and is the current stove to beat in the upright canister stove category.
The Soto WindMaster OD-1RX Micro Regulator stove retails for around $70. You can find it with the 4Flex pot support here at REI Co-op as well as here at Amazon.com. If you're looking to save a little weight and space, you can also pick up the TriFlex pot support as an add-on item, or for a WindMaster option with both supports included, take a look here at Zpacks. For more on stoves, you can also read our backpacking stove guide for additional information on all types of stoves and how to choose the right stove for your next backpacking trip.
Editor’s Note: This review originally appeared in Issue 8 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the magazine article here featuring additional photos, pros and cons, and our star rating for the Soto WindMaster.

Of all the things we carry while backpacking, a tent or our backpacking shelter of choice is among the most important for a safe and enjoyable wilderness excursion. A shelter provides refuge from rain and snow, cuts down on wind exposure, and often will protect us from biting insects as well. While other shelter options are popular from hammocks to tarps to bivy sacks, the traditional backpacking tent, or perhaps some not so traditional modern tents on the market, remain the most popular shelter option with their balance of protection from the elements, ease of setup, and reasonable weight.
Even with that reasonable weight though, any way you spin it, a tent will be one of the heaviest things we carry. As a result many pros and cons must be…weighed, before making a choice. Here we'll look at the main categories and types of backpacking tents, features of the best backpacking tents out there, and design choices to consider.

The Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo single wall, trekking pole supported 2 person backpacking tent.
Single Wall vs. Double Wall Tents
Among these pros and cons perhaps none is debated more often than single wall and double wall tent designs. Single wall tents, as you might expect, feature just one simple layer of fabric or material between you and the elements; an example can be found in our Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo review. This offers a substantial advantage in saving weight, while not being as warm as a double wall design, and condensation can be more of an issue. Unlike double wall tents, you are also not able to setup a mesh inner tent alone for star gazing in good weather. That said if you're looking for an ultralight tent or backpacking tent on the lighter end of the weight spectrum, single wall is a good way to save weight.
Double wall tents feature a similar outer weatherproof fly fabric as do single wall tents, but another layer will be inside of this outer layer, usually made from bugproof mesh, lightweight fabric, or a combination of the two. If you experience condensation in a double wall tent, you will bump into the inner, dryer layer first as you move about the tent instead of directly into a wet wall. In a single wall tent you may need to be a bit more careful, or in severe conditions, periodically wipe down the interior walls with something like a multi-use packtowel or bandana.
However, many well-designed, single wall lightweight tents will feature steep tent walls where any condensation will simply follow those angles downwards and out of the tent if there is a mesh screen between the fly and the floor – definitely a feature to look for in single wall designs. Additionally, since single wall tents feature less fabric the shelter can either be made lighter, or larger at the same weight – it pays to make sure you’ll have enough room so that your sleeping bag will not be touching the canopy (while on top of a thick inflatable sleeping pad if applicable) at the head and foot ends, and that you can sit up and enter and exit the tent without too much contact with the fly.

Dyneema Composite Fabric Tent from Zpacks
Choosing a good campsite is a key to avoiding condensation no matter which configuration you go with however, as both single wall and double wall designs will experience condensation. Forested campsites are often an advantage here, and chilly wet meadows would be among the worst offenders. If possible, ventilate the tent in good weather by leaving a door or vent open.
If you do get condensation, you can wipe it down in the morning and pack your tent last, then set it up first at the next campsite for maximum dry times. Single wall tents are often designed with a focus on integrated ventilation to assist, and can have less interior condensation as a result, although you may feel the breeze. With double wall tents you will be more protected from any condensation that may form, and double wall tents will be warmer on chilly nights.
Do I Need a Freestanding Tent?
Some tents are supported by a series of lines and stakes to hold them up, while others are dubbed freestanding. Note that freestanding is a loosely used term; some of these freestanding tents still require stakes to be usable, while others like the Black Diamond Firstlight, are truly freestanding. For tents that still require stakes, terming them as a semi-freestanding tent is better terminology. Either way, it still pays to stake these tents out to secure them in the wind. Non-freestanding tents are lighter as there are fewer poles that you have to bring along. Ultralight tents are typically of a non-freestanding tent design and are often supported by trekking poles.
While freestanding tents require a larger network of poles, their ability to be pitched with fewer stakes or anchors does come in handy if you need to setup in rocky areas and in winter on snow; simplifying pitching in all cases, but they are heavier and bulkier to carry. For my 3 season use, I haven’t found much of a need for a freestanding tent, although one would have been convenient in a couple situations where staking was difficult. For winter on top of snow however, I appreciate a tent with freestanding features like my Tarptent Scarp 2.
If you decide on a non-freestanding tent that requires stakes for setup, you choice of tent stakes will be more critical. The best stake to choose (or the best mix of tent stakes) will depend on ground conditions in the area you'll be backpacking and your preference in regards to weight and durability balance. You can read our tent stake guide for more on backpacking tent stakes. Many backpacking tents these days don't come with stakes or don't include the best you can get.


A 4 season, freestanding option
What Size Backpacking Tent Do I Need?
Often generous with capacity listings, manufacturers almost always base capacity off a standard 20” wide sleeping pad. For solo use it’s personal; just choose a 1 person tent with as much space as you like, making sure that it will fit your sleeping pad of choice and your height, but it's always a space to weight game and especially as you move up in capacity.
In regards to 2 person tents, while technically we only need a 40” wide floor to fit two standard pads, both people would be directly up against both side walls with no space in between. This may be too close for comfort even for the sanity of the closest of hiking partners; and if one person (not to mention both) were to bring a wide pad we’d be out of luck.
I have found that the golden floor width dimensions are about 26-27” per person. This may sound like a lot, but even with 2 standard pads directly against each other that’s just about 6” on either side for wall clearance and incidentals. Larger tents, such as the Tarptent Hogback, are useful for families and larger groups that desire only 1 tent. Note that however, as the number of people increases it may become more hassle than it’s worth for all involved when it comes to getting in and out of the tent and it may just be a better call to take multiple tents.

Arranging sleeping bags head to toe can help create more space if one tent is shared.
Some tents feature a floorplan that tapers towards the feet to save weight, a good match if you utilize a mummy shaped sleeping pad. Interior height of the tent is all about user height. At 6’2”, I look for tents that have around a 45”+ peak height. Also important is where this peak height is found on the tent. Some tents have a canopy that slopes downward as you move towards the sides and the best height is only in the middle of the tent. Others are flat across the top, offering more generous sit up room for all occupants. Height is again, user specific.
Enough room for a bit of a buffer at the head and foot end is very nice to have – 84-90” long floorplans have worked well in my case. Tents that feature a vertical wall section at the head and foot can be on the shorter side, while more length is needed with tents where the canopy slopes to the ground at the head and foot; it’s all about clearance for the foot of your sleeping bag and your head. Again however, there is a weight to space tradeoff to evaluate with these decisions. And, if you hike with a dog, you’ll need extra space somewhere. Plan accordingly. While extra floor space is almost always nice, keep in mind however that the larger the tent, the larger the spot you’ll need to find to pitch it.

While on top of your sleeping pad, make sure you can sit up inside your tent and that your sleeping bag has plenty of clearance at the head and foot ends.
Tent Doors, Floors, and Vestibules
Tents will either feature doors on the sides or at the front of the tent; side entry tents are generally easier to get in and out of and for two, a tent with two side entry doors will be the most livable in the field. Front entry tents can also work well, but often combine the door with the vestibule so you’ll be crawling over your gear to get in or out. Either way be sure that the pole configuration for trekking pole supported tents won’t get in your way too much, and doors that are vertical, not sloped, are preferred so that rain and snow doesn’t fall into the tent interior when you’re getting in and out.
Some tents will even feature an awing that you can setup with your trekking poles. This isn't something I specifically look for when I'm trying to find the right backpacking tent, but this will give you even more space that you can use to store gear or shoes, and further protects the entry from rain. Most backpacking tents won't have this feature as it's definitely not required, but it's always an interesting bonus.
As we’ve detailed, a little space for some incidentals inside the tent is something I’m keen on. For our pack itself, dirty shoes, and gear that we want to keep out of the elements a vestibule will provide the necessary space while keeping rain splashback and snow farther away from the inside doors. While no vestibule space is truly needed, at least 1, or 1 per person, is very nice to have along with general interior space in the tent body. If the tent body also has pockets inside for gear storage space, without adding too much weight, all the better. This is more critical in inclement weather and during wet weather events.
A tent floor should be made of a durable material, and should feature a “bathtub” type arrangement (where the floor raises above the ground for at least a few inches, to further waterproof the inside from running water or splashback under the fly), but in all cases you should still locate a campsite where pooling or running water will not be an issue. To protect the tent floor of the tent manufacturers will frequently offer a separate, and usually heavy, groundsheet, but this is optional with care in site selection. I still like the peace of mind, so I go with a not as heavy duty, but lightweight window insulation film groundsheet on my shelters. Some tents include a groundsheet with the purchase of the tent.

Larger tents are nice for the space, but sometimes there is only so much space available for the "footprint" of your tent.
Tent and Shelter Support Methods
The standard tent has a ridge pole or multiple collapsible poles that form a structure for setup. These poles can be made from aluminum (the most common) or carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is lighter, but will break if it fails whereas aluminum poles are more likely to bend in a failure mode. These shock-corded poles have only one purpose however, so when you’re carrying them around during the day they just weigh you down.
Many lightweight focused tents on the market are designed to save weight in this regard by using trekking poles – which you may already be carrying anyway – for setup instead of dedicated poles. Most of the time, manufacturers of these tents will also offer alterative aluminum or carbon poles for those that don’t carry trekking poles, and these usually end up being lighter than most traditional tent pole sets as well.
If you'll be taking trekking poles for setup, make sure your poles will extend to the required length specified by the tent manufacturer. Some tents may require two trekking poles and other just one. I usually carry just a single trekking pole, and thus often will have to take that along plus an additional tent pole instead of two tent poles.

With enough poles, backpacking tents can be made to be freestanding.
Tent Materials and Construction
Lightweight, silicone impregnated (silnylon), or tents that utilize a PU coated nylon, are the most popular waterproof shelter materials. Coated polyester (which has less stretch than nylon) can also be found. Another fabric, Dyneema Composite Fabric / DCF – previously known as Cuben Fiber, is another option that’s very light, but on the pricier side.
All materials should be sufficiently durable and weatherproof, although with any type of construction as we move into lighter materials some basic care will be required with your gear. Silnylon is relatively affordable in the cost department while still being quite light, and any fabric’s waterproofness will be rated by a hydrostatic head rating; or the pressure of water it can withstand from water before it leaks.
For an ultralight tent and those ultralight tents supported by trekking poles, silnylon and Dyneema Composite Fiber have ruled the roost for some time, while for a more traditional backpacking tent you'll find heavier and more durable fabrics supported by tent poles. You can still end up with a lightweight tent here, but not top of the list when it comes to the lightest weight backpacking tents. An ultralight tent will offer the most weight off your back, but the most spend and lesser durability (lower quality, bargain backpacking tents aside).
Most fabrics should be waterproof even in heavy rains, but some may for example, seep through if there’s water under the floor from the pressure of your body like a knee or elbow. Nylon’s main disadvantage is its stretch; on many nylon shelters you may need to perform an initial taut setup, and then readjust an hour later as the fabric relaxes or when it gets wet. Dyneema Composite Fabric on the other hand, has extremely low stretch and will hold its pitch from the get go. It is however more expensive (while being lighter in most cases) than silnylon, and is about as durable, save for abrasion which can usually be avoided.
Some specialty tents may also make use of waterproof / breathable material, with the intention of reducing condensation. No matter what tent design you go with, choosing high quality fabrics and materials is a good way to go with such an important item, and lighter denier, or lighter weight materials will save the most weight, while heavier options will take more abuse. Evaluate the seams as well – some tent makers do not waterproof the seams of their tents, which will require you to do so yourself at home with something like Seam Grip SIL seam sealer.

Silnylon tents utilize a nylon fabric impregnated (as opposed to coated) with silicone to provide waterproofing.
3 Season vs. 4 Season Tents
Tents will often be rated by 3 or 4 season ratings. For most of us, 3 season tents will be adequate for most spring, summer, and fall conditions while a 4 season tent will be rated to sustain a snow load and all around form a stronger structure. If you need one tent to do it all, a 4 season tent, like the MSR Access will certainly do the job, but will generally be heavier as you carry it around on those potential ultralight summer trips. Thus a 3 season tent combined with a winter-specific option can be the best of both worlds if you backpack across all seasons in locales that experience more traditional winter conditions, or if you hike in more temperate areas a 3 season tent can do the job just fine in any season.
How Much Should a Backpacking Tent Weigh?
These days, you can find a full featured tent and still keep things very light in the weight department, but usually at a price. For a solo tent, you should be able to find something very adequate under 2 pounds, and for two people under 3. There are lighter options of course, but you’ll probably have to make a sacrifice either in the space or wallet department. When it comes to an ultralight backpacking tent, these days you may be able to find single person versions close to a pound. Of course, if you'll be doing something like car camping, you can just throw caution to the wind and can focus on features, room, and a durable tent instead of weight.
For group tents, keep in mind as well that you can all “pitch” in and one person can carry the tent body, another the poles and stakes, etc. if needed. But remember that if your gear is separated, members of the group have to stay together.

At around 1lb per person, this 4lb, 4 person tent is a lightweight group or family option.
Final Thoughts
Without a doubt there are a wide range of pros and cons to be weighed, and selecting the best backpacking tent or best ultralight backpacking tent that is ideal for your application and preference is one of the most important gear considerations that is to be had – and if you're like me, it may take more than just one tent to get the job done. But with an array of options from an array of manufacturers available, from cutting edge Dyneema Composite Fabric tents to mountaineering and expedition-ready classics, there is sure to be a tent out there that will suit the weight, space, packability, price, and weather protection balance one might need for any trip.
See our best backpacking tents article for discussion on top tent choices based around group size, season, and price. And for a list of around 150 backpacking tents that you can narrow down and filter by the topics that we’ve discussed above, take a look at this page at REI Co-op.