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Hiking the Fiery Gizzard Trail of the Cumberland Plateau


DustyD

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Just the name Fiery Gizzard sounds like an adventure doesn’t it? The Cumberland Plateau is known for spectacular waterfalls, spring wildflowers, and panoramic views overlooking wild gorges extending for miles in the distance. The Fiery Gizzard Trail has a little bit of everything for the hiker or backpacker looking for a true wilderness experience any time of year. The official name of Fiery Gizzard is the Grundy Forest State Natural Area which is part of the South Cumberland State Park complex in Tennessee.

Hiking the Fiery Gizzard Trail

Much debate surrounds the origin of the name Fiery Gizzard and some stories link the name to Davy Crockett who lived for a time in the region. I’ve come to know the area over the years because it offers a rugged beauty throughout the seasons and is less than a two-hour drive from my home. I think too that the appeal for me is that you can choose between a short two-mile hike, a 10-mile loop or a 13-mile end-to-end hike for a variety of experiences depending on the amount of time you have. Most of the time I enjoy exploring the gorge itself and just take in the streams, waterfalls and wildflowers. Spring is my favorite season to hike the Fiery Gizzard Trail, but fall can also provide some spectacular colors when the maples and other hardwoods paint the forest in yellow, orange, and red.

A Loop Hike on the Fiery Gizzard Trail

The best way to experience Fiery Gizzard on your first trip is to plan for the 9.7-mile loop hike. Pick mid-April for spring wildflowers or maybe late October in hope of catching the fall colors on display. If you hike very far into the gorge, be prepared for some challenging hiking. There are stretches of the trail that consist mostly of boulders and the going can be very slow. But going slow is nice because you can take in so much more of this beautiful scenery. Beginning the hike is a somewhat surreal experience. One minute you’re leaving your vehicle in a small parking area next to a school and residential area. The next minute, you’re rapidly descending into the gorge next to a rushing creek surrounded by massive hemlock trees that are hundreds of years old. The transition is instant and seems impossible.

Fiery Gizzard Trail - Cumberland Plateau

Leaving the trailhead, you’ll head left down the trail and make a sharp right turn and find yourself under a massive “rock house.” It’s a giant rock bluff called Cave Spring Rockhouse. You can already hear the echoing sounds of Little Fiery Gizzard Creek bouncing off the huge formation. Take your time in this first section of the hike to enjoy the gentle flowing cascades. Several spots are worth the view even before you get to the beautiful Blue Hole Falls which is waiting for you about a half mile from the trailhead. If you do hike Fiery Gizzard in summer you’ll quickly notice a 5 to 10 degree drop in temperature as you descend into the gorge and hike next to the cool waters under the canopy of evergreens and hardwoods. You’ll be able to see a variety of trees including hemlock, beech, birch, bigleaf magnolia, and maples. Carve out some quality time to enjoy Blue Hole Falls that you’ll reach in your first 15 minutes or so of hiking. Blue Hole gets its name from the deep blue-green color of the pool at the base of the falls and invites you to stop and enjoy this peaceful scene. Shortly after Blue Hole Falls, the trail splits. You’ll see a wooden bridge going left over the creek and a trail which is the Grundy Forest Day Loop which continues straight. Take the bridge and head left over the creek.

Fiery Gizzard Creek

If you happen to be hiking in mid-May, keep your eyes on the area just to the left of the trail after crossing the bridge where the Little Fiery Gizzard Creek joins Big Fiery Gizzard Creek. This particular section is home to quite a few Pink Lady’s Slippers, a wild orchid that is somewhat rare but can often been found in bloom here. Just after the confluence of the two creeks to the right of the trail, you’ll want to stop and view the Black Canyon where the creek is forced through a narrow passage in the dark rock. The trail winds around a limestone bluff and eventually comes to a place called Chimney Rocks at 1.2 miles from the trailhead. This formation consists of several tall and narrow rock towers that look like large chimneys. Here the creek takes a sharp right turn and creates a bit of mystery about what might be just around the corner.

As the trail heads down from Chimney Rocks, start looking for the spur trail to Sycamore Falls with blue blazes. It’s a short walk to this 12-foot high falls but definitely worth it. It’s also an excellent swimming hole and wonderful place to take a break. There’s a great spot to photograph the falls if you cross the creek and position yourself to the left of the falls and frame the big sweeping limestone curve with the falling waters blurred by a long exposure. This view is easily one of my favorite scenes to photograph on the entire trail. Stay as long as you can, but pull yourself away as even more adventure is waiting for you in the rugged forest ahead.

Day Hiking the Fiery Gizzard Trail - Waterfall and Cascade

At mile 1.5 from the trailhead you will come to the intersection with Dog Hole Trail as you see a massive limestone bluff to the left with the creek on your right. My preference is to stay straight and continue hiking through the gorge. The Dog Hole Trail will take you up the ridge and on top of the plateau where you will head toward Raven Point. But, you would likely return through the gorge which is a much tougher although more interesting section to hike.

Past the intersection with Dog Hole Trail, the going can get really rocky in the gorge. And at mile 2.0 you’ll come to a large pyramid shaped boulder that signals your entrance into an area called the Fruit Bowl. Here the boulders are about the size of a truck and a set of stone steps will lead you down the trail. I’m interested in early spring wildflowers and this is usually the point on the trail where you start to see them. Early favorites in March would be Bloodroot and Hepatica. During the middle of April you will find all sorts of Trillium and many other wildflowers.

Around mile 2.5, the trail meanders close to the creek again so look for a gentle cascade with flat, rocky sections which make for a perfect lunch or snack location. Unless there has been heavy rain, you’ll be able to enjoy a spot on the dry rock bed and sit next to a cascade in the middle of the creek. Take your time here and enjoy the scenery. This particular location doesn’t have an official name but for me it’s simply the “Lunch Spot.” Don’t let the boring name fool you, though, the view up the creek from here is incredibly beautiful. If you have just enough time for a short hike in, this is a perfect place to target before turning around. But, my advice is to keep going and hike the loop.

Fiery Gizzard Waterfall

You’ll continue along the boulder field disguised as a trail as it goes up and down the bluffs and moves toward and away from the creek. In some stretches it’s pretty difficult to stay on course. There are white blazes on the trees but since you’re walking on boulders for much of the way there really is no trail to follow. And since you’re looking down with every step, it’s easy to miss a white blaze. But, that’s all part of the adventure! Think carefully about your footwear too before you head out on the trail. A well constructed trail shoe with some firmness in the sole is about right. Stiff soled backpacking boots don’t provide enough flexibility to grip the rocks and trail shoes that are too light won’t protect your feet very well. Eventually at mile 3.7 the rocky trail will turn left and head up the bluff toward Raven Point. At mile 4.4 you will come to an intersection with the .4 mile spur trail to the point. Make the short walk out there and take in the expansive views of the valleys below. Take your time here also before heading back to the trailhead.

Back to the Trailhead

When you retrace your steps back from Raven Point you will have another decision to make. Should you return to the trailhead back the way you came through the gorge or take the easy walk along the rim and return via the Dog Hole Trail? Much depends on how tired your legs might be. I love all the time I can get in the gorge so I’m usually inclined to head back that way. But, if you want to see some views from the rim and have a little more relaxing time on your way back, take the Dog Hole Trail. From the campsite at Raven Point, the Dog Hole Trail is 2.8 miles long until it intersects with the Fiery Gizzard Trail which will take you back to the trailhead.

Forested Creek - Fiery Gizzard Trail

In planning your hike along the Fiery Gizzard Trail, think about mid-April to mid-May when the wildflowers are on full display and the greens of the forest become electric. The creeks are usually full and the waterfalls can be spectacular with the spring showers. Fall is hard to beat also. Some years are better than others and the colors can definitely start early or late. I like to target late October as fall color is prime time on the plateau. Also come prepared for a variety of temperatures in any season and definitely plan your footwear with care. The rocky and rugged terrain can be a challenge. But, mainly come prepared to enjoy a truly wild and beautiful region that’s one of the best hikes on the Cumberland Plateau.

Need to Know

Information

Total Distance of the Fiery Gizzard Trail: 9.7 miles total which includes hiking in through the gorge and returning via the Dog Hole trail. Total time to hike: 5 hours minimum.

Best Time to Go

Spring for wildflowers and fall for autumn colors.

Getting There

From Interstate 24 you’ll take the Monteagle exit (134) and head east on 41A. You’ll drive a short distance and turn left when you see a brown state park sign indicating the left turn to the Fiery Gizzard. Continue on US 41A toward Tracy City and note the South Cumberland Visitor Center. Stop in and grab a trail map and ask about trail conditions. From there you’ll continue traveling on 41A toward Tracy City and will turn right onto Third Street in 2.3 miles past the Visitor Center. Follow the signs to the trailhead parking lot from there. If you arrive before sunrise, the gate to the parking lot will be closed but there is a small parking area just outside the gate that you can use.

Maps & Books

Fiery Gizzard Trail Map. For getting to and from the trailhead and exploring other destinations in the state the Tennessee Delorme Atlas & Gazetteer can be helpful. The book Fiery Gizzard: Voices From the Wilderness offers some background reading and information on the area. Hiking Tennessee as well as Hiking Waterfalls Tennessee are two guidebooks that cover additional hikes in the state.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Dusty Doddridge originally appeared in Issue 23 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

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