Carpets of emerald green moss blanketing volcanic slopes; steam escaping through the earth’s crust, depositing hot water in natural pools; glaciers and colorful rhyolite mountains; lush growth in a stunted forest…the Laugavegur Trail through Iceland’s southern highlands offers a visual feast and an epic hike.

I first hiked the popular thirty-four-mile trail in 2015 and had often thought of going back. The opportunity presented itself in 2022, when I learned of a new trekking route in the same general area as Laugavegur but a bit farther east. The idea of seeing a slightly different perspective was appealing and, along with my daughter-in-law, Jessica, put the trek on my calendar for late July. Like my hike seven years earlier, it would be a hut-to-hut walk, staying in Iceland’s well-organized system of forty rustic, communal mountain huts, dispersed all over the island. Though basic, these cabins offer warm, dry, and welcoming shelter from Iceland’s volatile weather.

But at the last minute, unexpected environmental conditions made our new route impassable. My contact in Iceland, Einar Westlund, a former hiking guide, said there was lots of water in the rivers, more river crossings than usual, and the ice bridges we would have relied on had melted. It would not be safe to attempt the new route so the alternative was to do the Laugavegur Trail again. Airline tickets already purchased, Jessica and I were committed, so Laugavegur it was.

A Second Trip to the Laugavegur Trail Begins

The change required a quick pivot for me. I was already away from home when we got the news, having driven to South Dakota from Oklahoma to meet my husband Bill, who had been traveling on his motorcycle out west. I would be flying to Iceland from Rapid City rather than our home base of Oklahoma City. Anticipating a hut-to-hut trip, I had packed only a light sleeping bag and no sleeping mat, since the huts have bunks or at least mattresses. But with the last-minute change we would have to camp part of the time, requiring much warmer sleeping bags. Fortunately, we would be able to rent a tent and mats in Iceland, and I was able to nab Bill’s twenty-degree sleeping bag, which he’d been using for camping in the mountains.

We were all set, or so it seemed. Then, two days before my departure, Bill broke his leg riding a motorcycle up a rocky hillside in the Black Hills. At the emergency room in Rapid City, we waited to hear how bad it was. It was a relief to learn that, though bad enough, it was not so bad that Bill needed me to cancel my trip. The fracture of his left tibia was non-displaced and he insisted he could drive himself home in our pickup.

Feeling guilty but not terribly so, I flew out of Rapid City on schedule and arrived in Reyjkavik, where I waited for Jessica’s arrival from Oklahoma City. She showed up not long after but, unfortunately, her luggage did not. She was wearing her hiking boots and backpack, so at least she had those essentials. At the hotel, I identified several items I could loan her and the next day we went shopping for others. Meanwhile her husband (my son), Mark, was trying to track down her bag and figure out how to get it to her once we started our trek. Finally, early the following morning, as geared up as we were going to get, we trudged to the bus stop with one large duffel carrying both our gear to head for the trailhead.

After a four-hour bus ride, we arrived at Landmannalaugar, the starting point for the Laugavegur hike and a spectacular place to visit on its own. Located within the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, Landmannalaugar is on the edge of the Laugahraun lava field, formed by an eruption in about 1477. After setting up camp we hiked to the nearby crater of Stutur and walked around its rim, a good warm-up for the days to come, with expansive views and the first chance in several days to get our heart rates elevated.

The highlight of our stay in Landmannalaugar was the hot spring. There, as hot water surfaces from beneath the lava, it mixes with cold streams and fills a natural lagoon, resulting in a comfortable soaking temperature around 96 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit. The Icelandic name Landmannalaugar translates to the “People’s Pool,” referring to the long history of this remote oasis serving as shelter and respite for tired travelers of earlier days. That night, it never really got dark; it was, after all, late July in Iceland, truly the land of the midnight sun, where the day is nineteen hours long and the darkness is mostly just twilight.

Our first day of hiking offered the most elevation change on the hike, which I had erroneously remembered as “mostly flat,” a common problem for me unless I’m talking about something memorably steep like the Grand Canyon. Landmannalaugar sits at just under 2,000 feet elevation and from there the trail ascends for six miles on black obsidian slopes and across snowfields to about 3,400 feet at the Hrafntinnusker Hut, our first day’s destination. The landscape along the way is otherworldly, with steam escaping the earth and geothermal pools making it obvious that this place is nothing if not actively volcanic. Hrafntinnusker was one of the huts where we were lucky enough to get accommodations, and given that this is one of the colder spots along the trail, we were happy for a bed out of the weather.

It was rainy and cold the next day as we started our nine and one-half-mile trek to Hvanngil. We walked downhill most of the way, back to a little less than 2,000 feet. Today we experienced the first of numerous river crossings, which we would learn to take seriously. The swift current of the cold glacial streams can sweep you off your feet in a moment and we came to appreciate the value of taking small steps, using our trekking poles, and relying on another hiker’s strong arm if necessary.

Arriving at Hvanngil, we had two unexpected treats. One was that we were able to nab spots in the hut that night. But, even better was that Jessica’s bag had been located and delivered to the hut, way out there on the trail. It was the best moment of the trip, seeing the smile on her face when she saw her duffel. Jessica had not been letting it get her down, but having her own things clearly brought her great (and well-deserved) joy.

The next day, trekking seven and one-half miles to Emstrur at Botnar, the path was fairly level. Along the way we enjoyed the sights: bright green moss, a profusion of wild flowers, and a black desert of lava. We had lunch out of the wind next to a roaring waterfall and, just before reaching Emstrur for the night, took a short side trip to gaze upon the breathtaking gorge of the Markarfljot River. Mild weather made for comfortable camping that night at Emstrur.

A Final Day and Night Hiking the Laugavegur Trail

The next morning we left for Thorsmork, “The Valley of Thor.” With an eleven-mile hike ahead of us, it would be our longest day. We descended to less than 1,000 feet of elevation and as we approached Thorsmork, we saw, for the first time along the trail, trees. Iceland’s landscape is mostly barren of trees, having been deforested after the Vikings’ arrival. Attempts to reforest the island are inhibited by the poor soil. But in Thorsmork, the topography of the valley, nestled among three glaciers, creates a warm microclimate, resulting in lush vegetation of moss, ferns and, most notably, birch trees. The warmer weather and beautiful scenery made our last night of camping a joy.

After hiking to the peak of Valahnakur the next morning, we caught the bus back to Reykjavik, then spent an extra day sightseeing. As if we hadn’t had enough drama, we learned that day that the Fagradalsfjall Volcano was about to erupt. Located between Reykjavik and the Keflavik airport, an eruption had the potential to disrupt air travel or prevent our reaching the airport. I was a bit on pins and needles about it but, as it turned out, the volcano waited two days after we left to spew its gases and molten lava. A week later, it was the biggest tourist attraction in Iceland, suggesting that, in a weird sort of way, we missed out.

All’s well that ends well, and in this case, it ended very well. Iceland is a top-notch hiking destination with scenery like no place else, and in my case, twice may not be enough.

Need to Know

Information

The Laugavegur Trail is moderate in difficulty. Except for the elevation gain on the first day and the river crossings, the trail is not particularly challenging. It is very well marked and the typical four-day schedule keeps hiking distances to an average of 8.5 miles per day. Laugavegur is usually hiked from north to south, as it has a slightly downward slope in that direction.

Accommodations are limited to huts or their adjacent campsites. Both are operated by FÍ (the Icelandic Touring Association). Hut size and comfort varies, but all offer mattresses or bunks to sleep on, toilets, running water and a communal kitchen. They are heated by gas or geothermal energy, but there is no electricity. Be sure to book in advance here.

The weather in Iceland is unpredictable, with the potential for rain, wind and cold temperatures and even snow, even in the summer months. Come suitably prepared. Numerous reputable trekking companies provide guided hikes with luggage transfer and this is something I highly recommend.

Best Time to Go

The Laugavegur Trail is only open from late June to mid-September. The exact dates depend on the weather. The trailhead and some of the huts are accessed by gravel “F-roads” which are closed during the winter months. The best time to hike the trail is July and August. Earlier or later, you may not be able to access the trail.

Getting There

Fly into Keflavik airport, about forty-five minutes west of Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland and its largest city. Reykjavik is a clean, friendly city with abundant hotels and restaurants. Bus service to the trailhead is readily available. See here.

Maps and Books

For a good read on Icelandic culture, see How Iceland Changed the World by Egill Bjarnason. Specific information and a map of the Laugavegur Trail can be found in the guidebook Trekking Iceland's Laugavegur Trail & Fimmvorduhals Trail and via the Iceland's Laugavegur Trail & Fimmvorduhals Trail map. National Geographic also offers their Iceland Adventure Travel map.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 57 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.