I sit alone along a flat gravel ridgeline somewhere in the Sonoran Desert’s Ajo Mountains. There are no winter clouds, no moon, and a spellbinding cacophony of tinsel stars is visible above the din of chirping, cheeping crickets. Suddenly, the distinctive roar of fighter jet engines joins the caroling chorus, aircraft whose red blinking LEDs trace somersault motions in the sky like a berserk Rudolph piloting Santa’s sleigh. A string of yellow puffs, bright as Christmas lights, trail the planes b
Towards the end of any backpacking trip and after a few days of freeze-dried and shelf-stable meals with quite limited fresh food if any at all thrown in, the post-trip meal is something we all start to look forward to. For me, a burger, pizza, and Mexican food typically make up my top 3 choices. While I still haven’t found that suitable freeze-dried substitute when it comes to the pizza or burgers, Mountain House has a couple choices in the other category that allow you to get your fix not at a
For backpackers seeking an immersive wilderness experience in uncrowded and ruggedly beautiful country, the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness is a perfect destination. Located along the Montana and Idaho border, this 1.3 million acre wilderness is one of the original wilderness areas designated in the 1964 Wilderness Act and is the third-largest wilderness area in the Lower 48. Hundreds of miles of trails provide access to lakes, peaks, lookouts, enchanting forests, and wild rivers and streams.
We had a nagging feeling over 500 miles into what we called our “open ended section hike” of the CDT – a non-commitment to hike as much of the trail as we wanted to. Rachel and I both wanted to push our boundaries and hike more off-trail routes and if you were lucky vaguely described on Jonathan Ley’s unofficial Continental Divide Trail (CDT) maps. Almost all of our experience was on trail but we wanted more of an adventure off the beaten path so to speak. On our first attempt at the southern ed
The drive into the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness is one of many layers. Like the layers of the range itself, you must first go through the first layer: in this case the grasslands and rolling hills of Interstate 90, then continue chipping your way up the foothills and hope you make the correct turn. Unraveling further, you pass through farmland where finally, you bounce down a dirt road dodging potholes and prairie dogs while beginning to see the landscape change from rolling hills to forested s
You’ve no doubt heard of the John Muir Trail, justly known as one of America’s premier hiking trails. Perhaps you have even hiked it (if not, put it at the top of your hiking bucket list). But the JMT is not the only long trail through the heart of the Sierra Nevada. Just 10 miles to its west, the Theodore Solomons Trail parallels the JMT. Starting at Horseshoe Meadows south of Mt. Whitney, it bears west over the Kern drainage, turns north to Mineral King, then keeps to the west sides of Sequoia
Most backpacking trips enter a figurative “Paradise” at some point or another. It could be an exquisite sunset, a perfect campsite, or time spent mesmerized by a waterfall. My trip along the Selway River Trail with my stalwart backpacking companion Justin had the amusing distinction of actually beginning at a Paradise. The Paradise boat launch and trailhead in the Bitterroot National Forest in a remote corner of Idaho, to be exact.
From here we would follow the Selway River downstream
In The Old Ways: A Journey on Foot author Robert MacFarlane seamlessly blends tales of his experiences walking historic and modern paths, explorations of the history of influential walkers, and philosophies of the relationships between ourselves and the landscapes through which we move. As a reader, I was initially hesitant about this book. My heart and body are entrenched in the landscapes of the American West, and I thought that reading about MacFarlane’s travels through the chalk downs of Eng
Every season in the mountains of Southern Appalachia comes with its own charms and beauty that can make hiking a familiar trail a novel experience. Blooming wildflowers, fall colors, and snow clinging to trees are the most readily apparent seasonal highlights that make Great Smoky Mountains National Park such a paradise for hikers and backpackers. While the park is technically the most visited unit in the national park system, in nearly a dozen trips there I have found the backcountry to be surp
As I view the green rolling hills and valleys, it is difficult to tell that the elevation is above 12,000 feet. Off in the distance rugged peaks fill the horizon. Today a new adventure begins, one met with anticipation as well as uncertainty. My small Excel spreadsheet route plan reveals that today is actually day 17 of a journey that has been filled with lofty peaks, new friends, and some of the finest scenery in Colorado. Today’s adventure enters the depths of the Weminuche Wilderness in the S
After a drive into the night and an examination of the small walk-in Devils Lake Campground by headlamp, I found an available campsite – close enough to the trailhead that it was safe to say the first part of my journey (getting there) was complete. It was quiet, but there were several others camped nearby. The peaks that dominated the wilderness trip ahead of me were obscured by the darkness of the night. I was excited for the backpacking trip ahead of me, a nearly 60 mile variation of one of O
The San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado have some of the most breathtaking scenery in the country. The views are filled with high peaks, beautiful waterfalls, scenic valleys, and prolific wildflowers which call to you to explore! I have spent several vacations in the area over the years, and was long overdue for another visit. This trip was with three of my hiking friends from the flatlands of Oklahoma and Texas – Craig from Houston, and Ward and Joel from Oklahoma City. We all live at l
Imagine a wilderness area of tundra ridge walks, a place where 13,000-foot peaks tower into the sky, where wildflowers dot the landscape, and bighorn sheep scramble over the terrain. A wilderness area that would seem to be the stuff that backpacker dreams are made of. Now picture this area tucked away in northern New Mexico. An area ignored by many backpackers. No major long distance hiking trail comes through these mountains. No glossy travelogues feature this wilderness area. This wilderness a
Located approximately 15 miles off the Minnesotan and Canadian shores of Lake Superior, Michigan’s Isle Royale is the largest island in the world’s largest freshwater lake. This national park is a wilderness paradise with 99% of it officially designated as such. It includes scenic ridges, rugged coastal views, inland lakes, unique wildlife relationships, and an excellent network of trails. The island is 45 miles long and 9 miles wide. As the third largest island in the contiguous United States,
Like most Americans who were raised in the East and born after the mid 1970s or so, volcanoes are something I associate with middle school science classes and dramatic pictures of Mount Saint Helens and its 1980 eruption. Even after I became enthralled with backpacking and natural landscapes after frequent trips to the sandstone wonderlands of the Cumberland Plateau and the forested slopes of the ancient Appalachian Mountains, hiking around a volcano seemed like a ludicrously exotic experience.
Although the quintessential image of backpacking is of alpine lakes, thick forests and craggy peaks, deserts offer the well-prepared backpacker breathtaking scenery and an opportunity for longer hikes months before most mountains have melted out. Desert backpacking is typically associated with the iconic landscapes of the Southwest and destinations such as Canyonlands National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Grand Canyon National Park, and numerous other national parks, forest
Huge views, colorful rock, geology on display, nature exposed, fresh clean air, massive amazement...these are all included in a trip to this Sandstone Wonderland. In far northern Arizona there is a vast area of rugged and beautiful locations known as the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. An area covering 280,000 acres, the monument includes the Paria River Canyon, Buckskin Gulch, the Paria Plateau, the Vermilion Cliffs, and Coyote Buttes. The area is under the jurisdiction of the Bureau of Lan
While by no means an essential component of backpacking, I’ve found collections of short stories by various authors ending up in my pack more often than not. When tentbound in a thunderstorm, whiling away an afternoon beside an alpine lake, or passing the time on a long winter’s night, I’ve never regretted bringing along a book despite the extra weight. Perhaps no book has brought me as much entertainment, and been so perfect for backpacking, as To Build a Fire and Other Stories by Jack London.
We arrive on the shore of the Buffalo River in northwest Arkansas on a chilly morning in early November 2022, wearing old tennis shoes we have repurposed as water shoes, to begin forty-two miles of hiking on the Buffalo River Trail (BRT). In spite of the cold, we will start this hike with wet feet. But warm socks and dry hiking boots await us once we wade up to our knees across the shallow ford at Woolum and cross the more challenging Richland Creek, a narrower and deeper stream that empties int
For most hikers and backpackers, when they think of Washington their thoughts tend to drift to the rugged grandeur of the North Cascades or the rainforests, beaches, and mountains of the Olympic Peninsula. The beauty and opportunities for amazing trips in those locales can certainly not be understated. As evidenced by increasing crowds at many trailheads in recent years, and stiff competition for permits in areas where they are required, the public lands in the western part of the state aren’t (
The view out the cabin window was nothing short of spectacular. Sitting perched at an elevation overlooking the Gallatin Valley, the city of Bozeman, and most importantly the Bridger Mountains; aptly named by the locals, “The Bridger’s” or “Bridger Range.” A spine that shoots up from the plains with a sheer drop on either side and a ridge that beckons the call for exploration. A sunset glow pierces the cabin window with the fire outside ablaze. The orange glow glissades down the edges of the ran
Rarely is there a book that compels me to head for the library nearly as much as the trailhead. David Gessner’s All the Wild That Remains: Edward Abbey, Wallace Stegner, and the American West is a perfect example of such a book and is an entertaining and entrancing mix of journalism, geography, literary analysis, and travelogue. These attributes make it both an excellent work in its own right as well as a wonderful introduction to the books and philosophies of Wallace Stegner and Edward Abbey an
In backpacking circles CCF (closed cell foam) is most often used in relation to your choice of sleeping pad, which often comes down to one key decision – air pad or CCF? Both have pros and cons. A thick air pad is found to offer a more comfortable night of sleep for many and they pack small, but care must be exercised to guard against punctures and carrying a patch kit is recommended. And if you want one that’s both light and warm, they can be pricey.
CCF pads are warm for their weigh
This delicious recipe involves packing in some fresh vegetables, cheese, and other heavier-than-usual ingredients and cookware, so it’s probably best as the first night’s meal where the hike in isn’t too long or arduous. When paired with a Mexican rice side dish (with jerky tossed in, if desired) this is a very filling dinner and the quesadillas are great appetizers. Depending on your appetite and how many you make, they can also serve easily as the main course.
You can dress them up
Located in the remote Southwest corner of Texas, Big Bend National Park provides numerous opportunities for hiking and backpacking. For those looking for a winter hike away from the cold and snow, Big Bend provides spectacular desert scenery in North America’s largest desert, the Chihuahua, including rugged mountains, expansive vistas, mighty canyons, the Rio Grande, and a variety of desert flora and fauna.
The classic backpacking trip in Big Bend National Park is the Outer Mountain L