What's New

An important core backpacking gear item, your backpacking sleeping bag needs to be light enough to carry easily, pack small enough so as to not take over your entire pack, and most importantly keep you warm and comfortable at night. In this guide we’ll focus on the best backpacking sleeping bags currently on the market by temperature rating. As this is a backpacking focused article weight of the sleeping bag and warmth to weight ratio will be of a paramount focus here, with down bags ruling the roost. For a basecamp scenario, synthetic bags would be worth consideration. See our guide on down vs. synthetic insulation for more information and background. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on features, weight, and performance. Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Backpacking Sleeping Bags This can be a complicated category with many options. Bags in this range can be very light, but early morning hours can be a bit crisp and ample warmth will be appreciated during the night. My pick hands down would be the Zpacks Classic 30 degree sleeping bag. Weighing in at just 14 ounces and going for $440, this bag is made with DownTek 900 fill power water resistant down and is available in 7 different sizes. Going to a hoodless sleeping bag (I mostly use the Zpacks 20 degree) has changed my backcountry sleeping for the better – now I can turn with the bag, or inside the bag, no matter. Additionally with the zipper on the bottom maximum heat is retained and you have no zipper at the top (leaking the most hot air) no matter if you’re a back sleeper or a side sleeper. In milder conditions above the shoulders just a warm hat works well for me, but if it gets cold at night you can add in an additional goose hood. Traditional top-tier manufacturers include Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering. When it comes to Western Mountaineering, they offer a variety of bags in this category, many that don’t have much difference between each other from a big picture point of view. Their MegaLite 30 degree sleeping bag weighs in at 24 ounces and is a nice option if you like more traditional design features. The MegaLite uses 850 fill down and is a wider bag with a passive draft collar that I’ve found is sufficient down to around freezing. Western Mountaineering bags aren’t cheap – the MegaLite will set you back about $600 – but with proper care these are bags that will last darn near forever. For slimmer users and in warmer conditions one could consider the Western Mountaineering SummerLite (around $500, 19 ounces) – although we’ve found this one starts to take on a chill as temperatures close in towards the freezing mark, it would be ideal for warmer nights. Both the MegaLite and SummerLite from Western Mountaineering feature a fully baffled construction (the bag is not sewn through to create the baffles – a sewn through bag results in a lighter and possibly less expensive construction but will have cold spots when temperatures drop). The Western Mountaineering FlyLite is a newer bag that is an option for warmer weather trips – it’s rated to 36 degrees, weighs just ~14 ounces in a standard width, and retails for just over $500. This makes it the lightest fully baffled bag Western Mountaineering offers. Draft tubes, draft collars, continuous baffles, and so on are not as critical during warmer conditions and their omission can save weight, but I find I've always appreciated these features in the field. Feathered Friends additionally offers top of the line down sleeping bags including the Hummingbird UL 30 ($550, about 22 ounces). This is a narrower bag (saves weight, more efficient) so keep that in mind, but if you’ll fit, as with Western Mountaineering this 950 fill power down bag is expensive but worth it. For women Feathered Friends offers their Egret UL 30 ($550, about 24 ounces) with an even narrower cut but in a more women’s-specific shape. Wider bags from Feathered Friends include the Swift UL 30 ($580, about 26 ounces) and the more middle of the road width wise Swallow UL 30 (24 ounces, $570). It will be hard to go wrong with a Feathered Friends bag, so long as you get the right fit. Another option is the REI Co-op Magma 30 (averaging around 25 ounces, $380) – offered in no less than 9 sizes for an almost custom type of fit, this bag keeps it lightweight via use of an 850 fill power water resistant down, standard features, and you even get an interior pocket. While of all of my backpacking gear a down sleeping bag is one place where I would not try to cut budget, this is one bag that could be considered more in the budget category if you catch it on sale. Summary: Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Sleeping Bags (and rating F) Zpacks Classic 30 Western Mountaineering MegaLite (30) Western Mountaineering SummerLite (32) Western Mountaineering FlyLite (36) Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 30 Feathered Friends Egret UL 30 Feathered Friends Swift UL 30 Feathered Friends Swallow UL 30 REI Co-op Magma 30 Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags Everything in nature seems to change below freezing, and at these temperatures I find that it becomes more important to consider those extra features like a nice draft tube and hood, with a draft collar being very much appreciated. For me and many others that backpack mostly in mountain terrain, the 20 degree bag gets the most use 3 seasons out of the year. These are your bread and butter sleeping bags, and from my perspective if you’re looking for the best sleeping bag in this category, you’ll likely be looking at the same brands we’ve previously discussed. Feathered Friends offers their versatile Hummingbird UL 20 (24 ounces, $610) – with the Feathered Friends Egret 20 (~28 ounces, around $610) being a women’s-specific option in this temperature range. These are narrower bags to save the most weight. However, if you like a little more space in a bag as I do, check out the Swallow UL 20 (27 ounces, $630). In regards to Western Mountaineering, we can narrow this down to the venerable UltraLite 20 degree (29 ounces, $630) – which is your narrow / standard option – and the wider and perhaps more comfortable 20 degree AlpinLite (31 ounces, $710). Although it’s a bit heavier the AlpinLite’s space wins out for me out of these two bags, but as with Feathered Friends, you can’t go wrong here. That said as previously mentioned and although I have had many a comfortable backcountry night in a WM AlpinLite, my preference for a backpacking sleeping bag has evolved towards the hoodless category. The Zpacks 20 Degree Classic sleeping bag (~19 ounces, $460) is my current choice for a bag in this temperature range – I find at these temperatures a hoodless bag is ideal (so long as I wear the warm hat I already take and wear a jacket with a hood). You can find my review of the Zpacks 20 here, although Zpacks has since updated the bag just a bit with upgrades. Zpacks again also offers their goose hood, but with a warm hat and jacket hood, I haven’t personally needed this until temps fall below 20. That said if you’re not ready to give up your sleeping bag hood, Zpacks also offers their 20 degree Mummy sleeping bag (23 ounces in medium standard, $580) with a built-in traditional hood. When on sale, for a more budget option in this category we’ll go ahead and put the REI Co-op Magma 15 in this category (comfort limit: 21 degrees). With a weight of around 36 ounces depending on size and retailing at $429 full price, this bag offers a very reasonable weight in 9 different sizes for a tailored fit, and at a very reasonable price especially if you catch it on sale. Summary: Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 20 Feathered Friends Egret UL 20 Feathered Friends Swallow UL 20 Western Mountaineering UltraLite (20) Western Mountaineering AlpinLite (20) Zpacks 20 Degree Classic Zpacks 20 Degree Mummy REI Co-op Magma 15 Best Winter and Cold Weather (Zero and 10 Degree) Sleeping Bags I find that it’s more versatile to have 2 warmer rated bags, combining them to form a winter sleep system when needed for cold winter trips rather than keeping a bag from this category on hand. As an example, I’ve combined a 20 degree and a more summer-oriented bag and stayed warm (with appropriate sleeping pads and a total r-value for the temperature) on winter trips nearing minus 20F. That said if you have one 3 season bag that covers all seasons other than winter, sleep especially cold and want a warmer bag for 3 season mountain trips, or are looking to add in a dedicated winter bag, a bag in this category may be desired. Same players, different temperature ratings again here. The 2lb., $735 Western Mountaineering VersaLite 10 degree sleeping bag is a solid choice on the warmer end of this category. One nice thing about the Versalite is that it’s in the middle width-wise – just right. Going back a bit to their 20 degree options, if the UltraLite was a bit too tight, and the AlpinLite a bit too wide, the VersaLite will likely be a perfect choice. For a women’s-specific bag check out the 10 degree Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10 (2lbs, $660). This is a super high quality women’s bag that is not unheard of on packing lists even for summer trips in the mountains for cold sleepers. As a women’s bag I haven’t personally used the Petrel, but having seen this bag being used in the field on many occasions I’m never surprised by the loft of Petrel – you may need a bigger pack! At these temperatures I do think a sleeping bag hood is something good to have – you want to retain every bit of heat your body puts off during the night within a singular compartment and bag. Thus the 28 ounce, $600 Zpacks Mummy Sleeping Bag in a 10 degree would be well worth consideration here for hikers looking to save weight. On cold winter trips, I prioritize warmth and features over weight. The colder it becomes the less I am personally concerned about weight – I prioritize warmth and comfort – and the last thing I’d want is a constricting bag on a winter night that could last 16 hours or more. In their wide mummy series the Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL (34 ounces, $700) would make for a top of the line choice in a 10 degree bag, but if saving the weight is more critical (via less width), the Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL (31 ounces, $680) would be the next logical choice here. Pushing the rating to 0F Feathered Friends offers their women’s Murre ES 0 degree bag (3lbs, $780) as well as their Ibis ES 0 Degree (50 ounces, $820). With a focus on heating efficiency, both of these bags have a bit of a narrow cut to be aware of – as with many things, there are pros and cons. Summary: Best Winter and Cold Weather Sleeping Bags Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10) Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10 Zpacks 10 Degree Mummy Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL Feathered Friends Murre ES 0 Feathered Friends Ibis ES 0 Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags While I prefer to combine 2 bags to make a poor man’s expedition bag for general winter backpacking trips in the lower 48, if I were to plan an Arctic expedition, a cold mountaineering summit attempt, or for some type of cold northern basecamp type scenario, an expedition bag would certainly be appreciated in these unique circumstances. Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering offer some very intriguing, and impressive, choices here that both throw plenty of goose down at the issue. The Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (69 ounces, $1360) is rated to -40F with 10” of loft and a weather-resistant shell. This bag is sized generously for additional comfort on those long winter nights. On the Feathered Friends side, their -40F solution can be found in the Snow Goose ES -40 (65 ounces, $1170). This bag is another bag that’s sized generously for more comfort and space if you’ll be spending a lot of time in your sleeping bag. If -40F isn’t warm enough however, the 78 ounce, $1360 Snowy Owl ES -60 bag from Feathered Friends may be up your alley for the most epic of arctic level expeditions. Summary: Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (-40) Feathered Friends Snow Goose ES -40 Feathered Friends Snowy Owl -60 Whether it's an expedition sleeping bag rated to 60 below or a featherweight summer bag that packs up smaller than a water bottle, there is a sleeping bag on the market for every possible use and scenario. In Conclusion A critical item on your gear list, there are a few ways to go about your sleeping bag strategy. You could choose to go with a bag rated for the lowest temperatures you’ll ever backpack in, but this bag may be overly bulky and heavy for warm summer trips (albeit workable). To save weight, I like to go with a 2 bag system, a warmer bag for downright summer-like weather, and a 20 degree bag that gets the vast majority of use for 3-season trips in the mountains where lows in the 20s are not uncommon in August. When I head out on a winter trip, I combine them. Whether you opt for a 1 bag approach or a multitude of bags ideal for every scenario, sleeping warm adds to any trip – and while a slightly heavier and warmer bag may not rule the ultralight spreadsheet, some temperature rating buffer is always appreciated at night when you’re out there. For a list of sleeping bags from various manufacturers that you can sort and filter by temperature rating and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For background info on sleeping bags, refer to our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag. For additional related “big 3” and “big 4” gear selection, take a look at our articles: Choosing the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pad as well as Best Backpacking Backpacks, and Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget.

On the trail my dinner requirements are simple: after a day of hiking and after setting up camp and filtering water for the night, I just want a meal that tastes good, doesn’t take long in the typical fading evening light, and meets some basic calorie and nutrition requirements. And all without too much clean up afterwards. With all these prerequisites in mind, freeze-dried meals can often be found in my food bag – and most of the time these meals will be a selection of staples I’ve come to find always hit the spot over the years. That said, it’s always good to mix things up and as new meals are released I typically give them a try – the latest of which is this Mexican-themed meal from Backpacker’s Pantry. Backpacker's Pantry Fiesta Beef & Vegetable Bowl The Fiesta Beef & Vegetable Bowl from Backpacker’s Pantry is a backpacking meal with 520 calories and 31 grams of protein. The meal is composed of rice, beans, beef, freeze-dried cheddar cheese, vegetables, sour cream powder, lime, and spices. The directions call for 1.5 cups of water and 15 minutes of rehydration time with a stir about halfway through. However, the directions are set for 5000 feet and rehydration time doubles for every 5000 feet over this. Thus, you’ll be waiting about 30 minutes at a common backpacking mountain elevation of around 10,000 feet above sea level. After opening the bag I was surprised that there didn’t seem to be much product in the bottom, and initially I wondered if a mistake had been made. However, after rehydration the resulting meal seemed more like a typical 500 calorie or so freeze-dried meal portion. Rehydration wise, the meal turned out to be quite soupy, but the ingredients did seem sufficiently rehydrated. Due to the soupy nature of the meal, my hopes for this one ending up as a good tortilla filling were quickly dashed. Taste wise, the lime is quite present along with a spicy heat note. I didn’t pick up much on the included freeze-dried cheddar cheese, and I got the overall impression that the meal would serve as a decent base to expand upon – as if it needed just a little something extra…it just didn’t feel like I was getting that Mexican food fix, at least at first. That said, my backpacking food bag often has two staples included – corn chips and cheese – and adding both of these to the second half of the meal made a dramatic difference, turning the meal from a base to tinker with to a trail dinner I’d definitely look forward to, although the small beef bits could either be provided in greater quantity or larger pieces; more presence of some type would be appreciated here. Conclusion Overall this new meal from Backpacker’s Pantry serves as a good base on the trail, and by adding different ingredients to fit your taste (spices, chips, hot sauce, cheese) you could definitely get a good trail meal going here. The price is a bit steep at $13 (at this price, more calories would be quite welcome), however a bit like taste, that is up to each one of us to decide. You can find the Backpacker’s Pantry Fiesta Beef & Vegetable Bowl here at Amazon.com. Find more backpacking meal reviews here on the TrailGroove Blog. Editor's Note: This review and installment of Backcountry Cuisine originally appeared in Issue 57 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

Ironically, I took photography at Brown University, and collect vintage cameras... @Aaron Zagrodnick If he is recording nonstop his cell phone battery life wouldn't cut it, not to mention he would probably need spare memory cards and set storage to the card vs internal memory and just swap out the cards when they get full. I wouldn't want to be swapping those tiny cards outside, as many of the new phones the card sits on top of the SIM card, and mine (SIM) fell out onto my table as I was installing a Mirco SD memory card, just image that falling in the wilderness and not being able to call out. He could potentially use a power bank, place it into his backpack, and keep his phone plugged in to it, but the cell phone will definitely get HOT, not to mention that cord will get annoying. @RobbieH12 Not a chance you are going to find a new digital camera, get the rechargeable batteries and a few spare ones for it and enough storage memory for $80. Your best bet is to buy a used digital camera, like Minolta, Canon, Nikon etc. so you can afford the spare batteries and memory cards for it. Best that it charges using a USB port so that you can use a power bank to charge a battery while you are recording with another. Your best bet is finding one manufactured prior to 2019 as IMO electronics have been crap since lockdown, breaking down within months to a year. I am speaking from personal experience, and I am a computer technician and electronic & small/large appliance repair man As a favor, just remember us here at Trailgroove and post some photos of your journey...

For at least half an hour, the solar eclipse seemed like a total bust. Sure, I could glimpse a chipped-out corner of the Sun with my rinky-dink eclipse glasses, but its apparently-undaunted intensity continued to bounce off the surface of Fiddler Creek, searing my skin and melting the chocolate in my food bag. But as totality approached, the atmosphere finally changed. An eerie glow settled over the landscape, and birds began to chirp their evening songs. The Sun, even 99% covered, had bravely persisted in rendering daylight. But then – totality. A flip of the light switch. A blue dusk. The only evidence of the Sun was its corona, blazing out from behind the moon. Planets revealed themselves in the daytime. Time is a strange phenomenon indeed. Those four minutes of totality seemed to pass in an instant. Before I could blink, the fabled ‘diamond ring’ emerged for a few seconds, as the Sun shone only through a tiny crater at the edge of the Moon’s surface. And moments later, as the Sun re-emerged, the whole thing was over. Sometimes, I wish I could freeze the clock and enjoy a few extra minutes of this once-in-a-generation event. A few months prior, I’d noticed that the 2024 eclipse cut its path of totality directly over the 223-mile Ouachita Trail (OT) in eastern Oklahoma and western Arkansas. I’d previously hiked most of the OT in early March 2020. The solar eclipse gave me the perfect excuse to finish what I started. The odds of a sunny April day in Arkansas seemed low, but perhaps I’d get lucky. In any event though, I wanted to hike the OT for its own sake. A Thru-hike of the Ouachita Trail Begins Getting to the trail turned out to be half the battle. I took an overnight train to Texarkana, and caught a bus a couple hours north to Mena, AR. Eventually, getting to the beginning of the trail took nearly nine hours, and involved putting together five separate rides. By the time I got to the western terminus at Talimena State Park, in eastern Oklahoma, the sun had nearly set. I snapped a quick photo and busted out a couple miles in the gathering gloom. Just before dark, I plopped down near a stream and snuggled into my quilt for the night. A quick cowboy camp would suffice. The high terrain of Oklahoma proved the most chilly – and challenging – miles of the OT. The days were sunny and warm, but high pressure dominated the region for my first few days on trail. As soon as the sun set, the temperature dropped to the freezing mark. Equipped with warm clothes and an extra dose of fluffy down though, I cowboy camped my way through Oklahoma, reveling in the delightful orange sunsets and perhaps some of the brightest stars in the eastern United States. The OT is well-marked along its entire length, but seldom-traveled in spots. The previous autumn’s leaf detritus lay thick on the ground, obscuring the rocky terrain of eastern Oklahoma. Each footstep was an adventure, with no indication of what kind of rocks I’d find underneath. In such conditions, my progress was tedious. I hiked deep into the evening hours those first few days. When I finally quit for the night, my legs ached badly enough that I struggled to fall asleep. Hiking into Arkansas Soon enough, I reached the Arkansas state line and my first resupply point – Queen Wilhelmina State Park. There, I charged my phone, met a couple other thru-hikers, and gorged myself at the magnificent breakfast buffet. Only three days in, I’d already developed an insatiable appetite. It was a busy weekend in the National Forest. Plenty of families took advantage of the beautiful weather to stretch their legs with a quick day hike. And, a couple days before the event itself, eclipse-chasers were already starting to set up camp. On one occasion, I crossed a dirt road, only to find my way blocked by a car-camping couple who’d set up their tent directly in the middle of the trail. I apologized awkwardly as I danced past their guylines. I belonged in the backcountry, away from roads and the throngs of eclipse-seekers. The event itself lived up to the hype. Despite an unfavorable forecast, clear skies persisted through most of the afternoon, allowing me an unimpeded view of the eclipse. As the evening progressed though, clouds began to pile up and a strong southerly wind swept moist air into the region. As darkness fell, lightning flashed to my south. After dawdling for most of the afternoon during the eclipse, I needed to make serious miles. And given the night’s grim forecast (thunderstorms and heavy rains), I desperately wanted to get underneath a roof. There was a shelter eight miles away, but the thunder was only getting louder. The next few hours were a blur, as I power-hiked through the darkness. The wind picked up, the lightning became almost continuous, and the humid air menaced rain. But, though the radar looked like a gallon of spilled paint, the downpour held off for the time being. Finally, I spied the sign marking the short side-trail to the shelter. No sooner did I duck under the roof, than did the rain pour down by the bucketful. I made it, with minutes to spare! I took advantage of a break in the weather the next morning to hike to the next road crossing, where I planned to resupply in the tiny hamlet of Story, AR. The trail had turned into a moat. A couple normally-dry creeks were running knee-deep. And more rain was on the way. I’d planned for this eventuality. Each of my previous three springtime hikes in Arkansas had involved multi-day bouts of terrible weather, so I planned a couple of buffer days on this trip. I sat out the remainder of the day in Story, as well as the following day. When I hit the trail thereafter, I again had beautiful weather for the rest of the trip. Story is a must-stop for any Ouachita Trail hiker. The Bluebell Cafe and its long-owner, Lori, have become legendary in the OT community. Lori offered me a ride from the trailhead to her store, and even a couple quick stops around town. The Bluebell itself is largely patronized by a stable crowd of remarkably-friendly locals. The sight of pouring rain through the cafe window made my burger taste even better. After the rain-induced interregnum, I hit the trail for the final 100 miles of the OT. This western section proved lower, greener, and less rocky than the western half of the trail. I cruised through the easier terrain, reveling in the occasional mountaintop vista. A particular treat was Flatside Pinnacle, the best viewpoint on the entire trail. Though a fierce wind battered the mountain, I couldn’t resist the temptation of a thrilling lunch at the viewpoint. The End of the Hike & Ouachita Trail Reflections The last thirty miles of the OT finally brought a reprieve from the constant up-and-down. I cruised around the edge of Lake Maumelle, approaching the outskirts of Little Rock. The OT wouldn’t give up so easily though, delivering one final burst of rocky terrain at the eastern terminus in Pinnacle Mountain State Park. I’ve often wished that I could have begun long-distance hiking in the 1980’s or 1990’s, rather than the 2010’s. Trails such as the Appalachian Trail (AT) or Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) are rightfully iconic, but as the popularity of thru-hiking has surged in the 21st century, the experience they offer has inevitably changed. Shelters on the AT are almost always full during peak season. It’s rare to go more than half a day without encountering other hikers. At times, the AT and PCT can seem like a 2,000-mile conga line, or a linear summer camp. Trail angels, no matter how kind-hearted, often burn out within a year or two, unable to keep pace with the relentless crush of traffic during the hiking season. On the Ouachita Trail, I found an experience reminiscent of decades past. The OT is complete and well-maintained, but it’s not crowded. Its AT-style shelters are clean, well-built, and rarely occupied. Trail angels and shuttle services can engage each hiker one-on-one, rather than shuffling them through assembly-line style. Trailside businesses aren’t overwhelmed with hundreds of packages, and don’t need a complicated numbering system to keep track of them all. When locals help with getting hikers to town, it’s a genuine act of spontaneous generosity, rather than daily drudgery. In almost two weeks on the trail, I met only three other thru-hikers. The Ouachita Trail is a throwback to the past. But perhaps it represents the future as well. As thru-hiking continues to surge in popularity, we need more trails to distribute the impact. The AT and PCT are arguably near their carrying capacity. But the Ouachita Trail isn’t. Neither is the Bartram Trail, Florida Trail, Pinhoti Trail, or the Idaho Centennial Trail. And that’s to say nothing of emergent trails like the Alaska Long Trail, which are still under development. In the Ouachita Trail, I caught a glimpse of both the past and potential future of thru-hiking. I couldn’t freeze the present. The Ouachita Trail was 223 miles long. I often wished it were twice that length. In the end, those four minutes of totality and those two weeks on trail were but a moment – a memory that I’ll treasure for decades. Need to Know Information The Ouachita Trail is 223 miles, located on an east-west axis in eastern Oklahoma and western Arkansas. No permits are required to hike the OT. The majority of the trail is located within the Ouachita National Forest, with small segments of state and private land (with easements), mainly on the west end. The west end of the trail is generally higher, rockier, and more difficult than the east end. Two of the best views include Rich Mountain and Winding Stair Mountain on the west end, and Ouachita Pinnacle and Flatside Pinnacle on the east end. Common resupply points include the towns of Mena, AR and Story, AR. As an alternative to going into Mena, hikers may consider mailing a box to Queen Wilhelmina State Park. Check with the park before mailing a box for any special instructions. Getting There The western terminus, in Oklahoma’s Talimena State Park, is inaccessible via public transit. The closest transit hub is Fort Smith, AR (bus or air), an hour north. Several shuttle services offer transportation. The eastern terminus, in Pinnacle Mountain State Park, is accessible to Little Rock (rail, bus, or air) via a relatively inexpensive rideshare. If section-hiking, the town of Mena, AR (near mile 68) makes a convenient endpoint, as it has twice-daily bus service to Kansas City, Fort Smith, and Texarkana. Best Time to Go The OT can be hiked at any time between October and April. Spring and fall are ideal. In recent years, winter thru-hikes of the OT have become more common. Winter hikers should be prepared for the possibility of subfreezing temperatures, snow, and ice. In times of drought, hikers may encounter the occasional dry stretch. Maps and Books Navigation is generally easy on the OT, though timber harvesting and prescribed burns have impacted the trail in a few spots, mainly on the west end. The trail is marked throughout with 2”x6” blue blazes. Maps can be ordered (or printed at home for free) here. Tim Ernst’s Ouachita Trail Guide is the definitive guidebook for the OT. It’s well-produced and detailed. Although not necessary for navigation, it helps contextualize the trailside sights. A FarOut Guide is available as well. For planning and overview maps, the Delorme Atlas for Oklahoma and their Arkansas atlas can be helpful. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 57 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

As one of the most important decisions you can make when it comes to backpacking gear, your choice of a backpacking tent can have quite the impact in regards to your comfort in camp and protection from the elements. Additionally, choosing the best backpacking tent can also have an impact when it comes to weight carried on the trail (as one of, if not the heaviest items in your pack), and a tent decision can have quite the impact on your wallet, as well. With many factors to consider, in this article we’ll look at the top backpacking tents currently on the market, with a preference towards tents that of course offer protection from the elements, but also are lightweight and include plenty of space for the weight (including headroom), while remaining sufficiently durable and easy to use. Additionally preference here leans towards tents that haven’t had any flame or fire retardant chemicals applied, and for tents that are easy to get in and out of and have space to store gear. Best Solo & Ultralight Backpacking Tents For solo use I look to save just about as much weight as possible and space is less of a concern – I find a little extra space to be much more useful and important when there’s more than one person sharing a tent. If it’s just me and in this day and age, I’ll look to go with a Dyneema Composite Fabric tent every time and will look for an ultralight tent under the 20 ounce mark or so. Previously my choice has been the (discontinued) Zpacks Hexamid Twin, which while designed for two was much more workable for one person having only a single side door and one vestibule. This tent however still only weighed around a pound. An ultralight Dyneema Composite Fabric tent from Zpacks Luckily there are modern-day alternatives available from Zpacks via their Plex Solo tent ($599, 14.5 oz.) as well as their Altaplex Solo tent ($669, 16.5 oz.), with the Altaplex being designed for taller hikers. I like a rectangular, non-tapering floorplan whenever I can get it no matter what tent I’m looking at, and as such the Altaplex would be an intriguing ultralight option. That said for those using standard-width pads who want the lightest pack, the Plex Solo and the Plex Solo Lite tent (a Plex Solo tent option featuring more ultralight materials and further weight savings) are equally interesting choices. With the solo tent category one door and one vestibule work great, as can be found in the tent designs discussed above. However, especially for those that backpack with a wide pad and like space, the Duplex Lite tent ($669, 14.9 oz.) should be given strong consideration. The Duplex Lite is also an option for 2 with standard-width pads, who want to save as much weight as possible and don’t mind bumping elbows. Regardless of which Zpacks tent you go with, I’d suggest at least considering their .75 oz. canopy material over the default .55 oz. Dyneema. I’ve used the .55 oz. material for years without issue – it’s not a bad default material and my tents have withstood years of use and severe weather. However, future DCF tents that I purchase will likely be of the .75 oz. variety just for all-around insurance. The .75 oz. material will be stronger and offer greater puncture resistance, which may be appreciated over the long haul and when you need it, without too much of a weight penalty. As you might have guessed, Zpacks offering buyers the choice of this fabric option is one reason their tents are recommended so highly in this article. Note that as you might expect, their "Lite" tents are not offered in this heavier duty fabric, but are still worth consideration as the lightest of the light. However, if you’re not sold on Dyneema and prefer a more traditionally-designed tent, one that does stand out in this category can be found in the NEMO Hornet Elite Osmo 1-Person tent ($550, 29 oz.). With 39” of headroom this tent may not be the most ideal choice for the tallest of users, but this height is on par with other tents in the more traditional, double-walled and freestanding (or semi-freestanding) tent market. At less than 2 pounds this tent will not weigh you down and can even fit a rectangular large and wide sleeping pad. If you’re looking to save some cash, NEMO also offers a standard version of the Hornet Osmo, which still comes in at a respectable weight with slightly smaller interior dimensions. Summary: Best Solo & Ultralight Tents Zpacks Plex Solo Standard Zpacks Altaplex Classic Zpacks Plex Solo Lite Zpacks Duplex Lite NEMO Hornet Osmo Elite NEMO Hornet Osmo Standard In summary if you’re looking for a Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) ultralight or solo tent and are open to a non-traditional design, Zpacks offers an excellent choice of floorplans and overall performance, and with the option of a heavier-duty DCF fabric for durability. For a more traditional design but still in the ultralight category, take a look at the NEMO Osmo series. Best 2-Person Backpacking Tents For a 2-person backpacking tent, I look for 2 doors with side entries and 2 matching vestibules, without question. This allows each person their own entry and exit (no having to crawl over anyone) and their own space to store gear at night. Generally, around 3lbs. or less is a good target here. For many years my go-to option here was the Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo ($395, 45 oz.). This tent features all the prerequisites above, but the weight of their lighter backpacking model (previously known as the Explorer model, and suggested if budget allows over their heavier Lunar Duo Outfitter) has crept up a bit in recent years. The Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo 2-person backpacking tent That said, the Lunar Duo backpacking model is not exactly heavy by any means and is a wonderful design with a 54x90” floorplan. This is one of the best floor measurements for a 2-person tent I’ve ever used. It’s long enough for tall hikers, wide enough for 2 wide pads, and isn’t excessive even with 2 standard pads…extra space is always nice. Additionally, the 45” centered height is great for sitting up in the tent. If at least one hiker uses a shorter pad, you can easily fit 2 people plus a dog or very small child in this tent as well, with gear being stored in the large vestibules. Find our Lunar Duo review here. About the only downside to this tent is that, as with all silnylon / silpoly tents including those to follow from Tarptent, you’ll need to seal the seams with something like SeamGrip SIL seam sealer at home before you head out, although many manufacturers are now offering this as an add-on service. Many backpackers – including myself – have long hoped that Six Moon Designs would come out with a Dyneema Lunar Duo to take things from lightweight to ultralight...we’ll continue to keep our hopes up. With its 90" long floor, the Lunar Duo from Six Moon Designs can fit 2 people with extra room, especially if at least one person utilizes a shorter sleeping pad. For something lighter but significantly more expensive, the Zpacks Duplex tent ($699, 17.9 oz.) or the larger ZPacks Triplex tent ($799, 21.4 oz.) are worth significant consideration. Zpacks tents are made from Dyneema Composite Fabric to save weight and you’ll end up with a tent that won’t sag in the rain like you can get with silnylon. At a 45” floor width, the Duplex will be tight for 2 people and both hikers will have to use standard-width sleeping pads, unless you want to absolutely max out the width of the floor with 1 wide and 1 regular-width sleeping pad…something I don’t recommend. The Triplex however, at a 60” floor width would be extremely tight for 3, but has plenty of room for 2 people with wide pads and room for gear or possibly a dog or small child as well. For 2+ look at the Offset Trio tent which will offer a little more width at the head of the tent, and a bit more length as well which can make fitting a dog in much easier. The Zpacks Triplex features a 60" wide floor, offering room for 2 people using wide sleeping pads with room to spare. Mainstream manufacturer Big Agnes makes some interesting tents in their Platinum and Carbon lines that are either freestanding or semi-freestanding, however there are some compromises to be had related to interior space or entry configuration (a side door, even when solo, is preferred). For example the Tiger Wall 2 Platinum tent ($650, 35 oz.) will get you a semi-freestanding tent for 2 using standard-width pads, but the 86” length and 39” peak height combined with a lengthwise sloping ceiling would be cramped for taller users. The Copper Spur 3 Platinum ($700, 52 oz.) is an interesting tent that boosts the interior length and height while using a more domed design, and is fully freestanding. This tent would be a palace for something like 2 people using wide pads that want plenty of personal space, or two and a dog (and as a 3-person tent of course – more on that later). All said, the Zpacks Triplex (for more see our full Zpacks Triplex review) is a top choice in this category for maximum flexibility (tents only seem smaller in the field). 60” is a bit much, and something close to the width of the Lunar Duo would be closer to perfect for 2. That said, we’re not making a custom tent here and beggars can’t be choosers. For two using wide pads who also have a dog along, the aforementioned Offset Trio would be a better fit. Both of these tents feature 2 doors and 2 vestibules. You can view both the Triplex and the Offset Series of tents here at Zpacks.com. Summary: Best 2-Person Backpacking Tents Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo Outfitter Zpacks Duplex Zpacks Triplex Zpacks Offset Trio Big Agnes Tiger Wall 2 Platinum Big Agnes Copper Spur 3 Platinum To summarize, the Zpacks Triplex is our choice in this category, fitting 2 people with wide pads comfortably while the Duplex would be more of an ultralight option for 2 with standard pads, while the Offset Trio allows for maximum comfort. The venerable Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo series offers a more budget-friendly option. For a more traditional design, the Big Agnes Platinum tents are worth consideration. Best Family or Group Backpacking Tents There is not much discussion to be had here when it comes to the best group and family backpacking tent, as unfortunately it seems manufacturers pour most of their research and development into their 1 or 2-person tent designs. The Tarptent Hogback ($579, 63.2 oz.) is my choice in this category with few competitors. The Hogback is a 4-person tent that weighs in around 4 pounds and features an 86x86” floorplan that can fit up to 4 standard-width pads, or 3 wide pads, and features double-wall construction with either mesh or partial-solid fabric inner options. 4 people in the Hogback will be a squeeze and you’ll be fighting for vestibule space, but we’ve used it for 3 plus a dog on many occasions. Tarptent Hogback 4-person backpacking tent Although for years Tarptent declined to entertain the idea of making Dyneema Composite Fabric tents, in recent years they began to utilize this weight-saving non-stretch fabric, but it hasn’t made it up the line to the Hogback quite yet (which would save quite a bit of weight in a tent this large). That said, we’ve been quite happy with the silnylon fly utilized in our Hogback and about 4lbs is still quite light for a tent of this size. You can read our full Tarptent Hogback review here. Although more of a backpacking shelter than a tent due to its floorless nature, the Black Diamond Mega Light tent ($400, 45 oz.) is also worth considering in this category and these tents and tents of a similar design have been successfully used by educational expeditions for many years. Depending on where you’re backpacking however, the extra bug and weather protection you get with an integrated floor like you’ll find on the Hogback may be appreciated. There is an optional nest available for the Mega Light; however it more than doubles the weight and almost doubles the price. For a lighter option Hyperlite Mountain Gear offers their UltaMid 4 pyramid ($1440 as a tent, 62 oz. with the floored mesh insert and pole). With either of these shelters you'll need to be aware of some compromises pyramid shelters can have – like a pole in the center of the tent, slanted walls, typically one (relatively) small door for entry and exit, lack of vestibule space, and the possibility of rain getting into the tent when entering and exiting due to the slanted walls. For freestanding options, the previously mentioned Big Agnes Copper Spur 3 Platinum ($700, 52 oz.) can fit 3 people with standard-width pads with room to spare, or 1 person with a wide pad and 2 others with 20” wide sleeping pads. The Copper Spur UL4 tent ($800, 88 oz.), with its larger (listed) 86x96” floorplan can fit 4 people with a couple of those people using wide pads, and this tent also has an impressive 50” inside height. In our testing getting this tent's floorplan to measure up to specs would be quite a stretch; thus we cannot recommend this tent maxed out with 3X wide pads along with 1 standard width pad. That said the tent will fit 4 people all in the same tent, although you’ll be well over 5lbs. And if the UL4 still isn’t enough space, you can take a look at the 86x108” Copper Spur HV UL5 ($900, 117 oz.) which, as you might expect, is designed for groups of 5 and features 60” – or 5 feet, of headroom. The Copper Spur UL line is typically a leader on the spec sheets – just be aware that to achieve light weight in a traditional design Big Agnes uses very light 15 and 20D fabrics that are lower on the hydrostatic head scale and feature a PU (polyurethane) coating. Coatings are very waterproof and allow manufacturers to tape seams, but coatings wear off, unlike impregnated silicone or Dyneema waterproof fabrics (it would be suggested to use a groundsheet – I use one made of window insulation film). At some point and once the group size gets larger, taking multiple smaller separate tents may make the most sense and can even save weight over a single larger tent – although depending on your tent choice, this can potentially be more expensive. Summary: Best Family or Group Backpacking Tents Tarptent Hogback Black Diamond Mega Light HMG UltaMid 4 Big Agnes Copper Spur 3 Platinum Big Agnes Copper Spur UL4 Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL5 For family and group tents the Tarptent Hogback is our choice, if your group will fit. The struts allow for good use of the 86x86” floorplan, but 86x86” is tight as group size approaches 4. The Black Diamond Mega Light and HMG UltaMid4 are pyramid options, which again are great if you fit and if you can deal with the drawbacks of the pyramid design, including inefficient use of floorspace. For more traditional designs, the Copper Spur series should be considered, however care will need to be exercised with the ultralight fabrics utilized. Best Budget Backpacking Tents Budget is relative, but for this category we can go ahead and rule out ultralight Dyneema tents and set our focus on the much more affordable nylon and polyester options. The Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo ($260, 26 oz.) can be had for less with free shipping and a sign-up discount, and if you catch it on sale it can even go for under $200. The Lunar Solo is roomy for one, fitting either standard or wide pads. The REI Co-op Half Dome Series of tents with a 2-person as well as a 3-person option has also been a go-to choice for many years. The REI Co-op Flash Series of tents offer lighter weight options, and can typically be found on sale at intervals throughout the year. The venerable Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo can also be found in their heavier but much cheaper polyester Outfitter Tent version, which will get you a palace for 2 people in a package under 4lbs. for around $200. If you’re looking to save and aren’t too picky on an exact model, checking the REI Co-op Outlet from time to time can lead to some good savings on a variety of tent models from various manufacturers. Summary: Best Budget Backpacking Tents Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo REI Co-op Half Dome Series REI Co-op Flash Series Lunar Duo Outfitter REI Co-op Outlet Tents If you’re looking to save some cash but still want a great tent, the SMD Lunar Solo is a venerable choice in this category for solo use. For two, look to the Lunar Duo Outfitter also from Six Moon Designs. The REI Co-op Half Dome series make for a traditional choice, with the REI Co-op Flash series offering some weight savings, and it’s always worth browsing the REI Co-op Outlet to see what’s on sale. Best 4-Season Backpacking Tents All the tents listed here thus far are primarily targeted towards 3-season use, but if you’re wanting to extend your trips into winter where heavy snow load can be expected and freestanding features become more important, you’ll need to look into 4-season options. The Black Diamond Firstlight 2P ($480, 54 oz.) has been a popular option for solo and 2-person use for years – you can find our full review of the Firstlight 2P tent here. If you like the Firstlight but want a little more space for 2 people, look at the Black Diamond Firstlight 3P ($550, 64 oz.). Black Diamond also offers their Hilight 2P tent as well as the Hilight 3P tent, which are very similar to the Firstlight except with upgraded features at a weight penalty. Tarptent Scarp 2 4-season tent For my use, I like the Tarptent Scarp 2 ($539, 56 oz.), however the weight is getting up there with the crossing poles and you’ll need to set a couple snow anchors with this one. For more, take a look at our Tarptent Scarp 2 review. When it comes to 4-season tents and winter backpacking, you don't want to make any compromises in regards to protection from the elements or the sturdiness of your tent, and extra weight carried here is typically worth it. Summary: Best 4-Season Backpacking Tents Black Diamond Firstlight 2P Black Diamond Firstlight 3P Black Diamond Hilight 2P Black Diamond Hilight 3P Tarptent Scarp 2 For winter and 4-season usage the Scarp 2 from Tarptent is my choice, be it a solo or 2-person trip. However and as you might expect, Black Diamond has plenty of choices in this category that are among the most popular 4-season tents of all time. Final Thoughts Overall when selecting the best backpacking tent you need to find a balance between weather and bug protection, weight, space, and price – and getting that balance just right will be a little different for each of us. However, with hundreds of options on the market the perfect tent is likely out there for everyone no matter your needs. For more on baseline information and factors to consider when choosing a backpacking tent or shelter, see our guide on how to choose a backpacking tent that goes into tent design and factors to consider on a more overall and general level. For a list of additional backpacking tents to consider from various manufacturers that you can narrow down by capacity, season, and more, check out this page at REI.com.

Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine is now available! Click the preceding link or the cover below to take a look: In This Issue: Jargon: Polyurethane Trail News Trail Tip: Shoe Fit Backpacking Getting Ready Guide Hiking Wheeler Peak and Geologic Area Trekking Poles and Backpacking Gear Mash Cheesy Beef Enchilada Bowl Review The Friendliness of Familiarity 107 pages dedicated to backpacking and hiking. Special thanks to all of our readers and contributors @Steve Ancik and @Susan Dragoo for your support and contributions towards the latest issue! If it's your first time viewing the magazine, we suggest starting on Page 1 for online viewing tips and tricks. Prefer to view the magazine in high definition or save it and view it offline? Our HD PDF is also available individually or included with a Premium Membership. Your input is highly appreciated. Let us know what you thought about Issue 58 here on the TrailGroove Forum, or contact us anytime. Thanks for reading!

One of the big 3 of backpacking gear choices (backpack, tent or shelter, and sleeping bag), the backpacking backpack you choose will have a profound impact on your comfort during the hiking day. Your pack will also be one of the more expensive items you’ll purchase, and to get the best pack within your budget a little research will be needed as there are a myriad of packs out there on the market. In this guide, we’ll look at the best backpacking packs currently on the market based upon anticipated pack weight and packing category (ultralight, lightweight, heavy weight) along with some budget options as well. For the purposes of this guide, we’ll focus on performance, availability, reasonable price, and reasonable longevity for the intended purpose. Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks If you’re a weekend or overnight backpacker and / or manage to keep your total pack weight at around 25lbs or less, more ultralight backpacking packs may be worth a look. That said, if you do plan on going over this weight from time to time, and prefer a quiver of one, the next section in this article may be more appropriate to evaluate. For ultralight loads however, the frameless ULA Photon (35L total, 26 ounces, $220) from Ultralight Adventure Equipment is not the lightest pack out there, but is tough and has excellent comfort at these weights along with a livable pocket configuration. For a bit of a space and a carrying ability upgrade, look at the ULA Ohm (63L, 34 ounces, $280) as well as the ULA CDT (54L total, 27 ounces, $220). The Zpacks Nero Ultra 38L (38L total space, 10 ounces, $250) offers an ultralight option for the lightest of ultralight packers, but in typical Zpacks style still has organization and features you need in a pack of this nature. The Super Nero Ultra 50L boosts the space up to 50L total, with a pack weight of just 12 ounces at $270. Both of these packs are suggested for 20lbs or less of total pack weight. Another option is the MLD (Mountain Laurel Designs) Burn. This pack weighs in just over a pound and retails for $325 with 38L of storage. Featuring the tried and true combination of roll top main compartment, outside pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets, the Burn is a nice option for ultralight overnights or beyond, so long as you are indeed focusing on the “ultra” of ultralight. Note that if you’re moving toward going ultralight, your backpack is the last thing you should upgrade. There is no point in exceeding the comfort limits of a pack just to achieve a target weight number on a spreadsheet. Comfort is more important and it’s better to have a slightly heavier, but more comfortable backpack when loaded. Summary: Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks ULA Photon ULA Ohm ULA CDT Zpacks Nero Ultra 38 Zpacks Super Nero Ultra 50 MLD Burn Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks This is the bread and butter category of backpacking packs if you’re focused on lightweight backpacking, planning longer trips where saving weight is a priority, or if you're planning on thru-hiking a long trail. These are the packs that are just right most of the time, just fine (if a little under-loaded) for an overnight, and can be pushed for longer trips – although they may not be the most comfortable for hauling heavy loads the first few days out and until some of that consumable weight is reduced. In this category and if your pack weight will be under 35-40lbs two packs from ULA Equipment have been a favorite choice of both mine and the backpacking community for years. My pick is the ULA Circuit (total volume 68L, 38.5 ounces, $300) that I’ve used on overnights up to 10 day trips and everything in between, although it’s definitely pushing it for trips over a week for me (whether you’d want to grab a pack from the next section in this article is a personal call). If you’ll be packing a little heavier, trend towards longer trips, and / or like more space the ULA Catalyst (75L total, 44.4 ounces, $320) will make more sense. To save a little weight and for a more waterproof pack Ultra versions of both of these packs are available. These two packs feature my favorite storage configuration for the trail (as previously described): large roll top main compartment, large outside back pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets. In either case, you simply cannot go wrong with these two venerable ULA packs if you’ll be carrying less than 40lbs fully loaded (I’ve had 50lbs in the Circuit, not suggested but the pack was no worse for wear). And as a quick note if you're looking for a great kid's pack look no further than the ULA Spark. Another and newer pack to check out in this category is the Durston Kakwa 55 (around 60L total, about 31 ounces, $200-$260). This pack can be either had in the more affordable UltraGrid fabric option or Ultra 200X. Either way you get a pack with impressive organization at reasonable prices, and a pack that’s quite light but still can carry up to 45lbs. A note on Ultra: while many manufacturers have begun using Ultra (100X / 200X / 400X) fabrics for packs, durability has been mixed on the original fabric and the jury is still out on newer, further reinforced X versions. That said an Ultra pack will get you a completely waterproof pack (except seams unless taped). UltraGrid however, is a heavier denier nylon with a UHMWPE gridstop and a PU coating on the inside. This coating is rated at a 1500mm hydrostatic head – that’s as waterproof as some tents on the market. Fabrics similar to UltraGrid have proven themselves over the years. They will become more water-resistant in time, but these fabrics have held up very well to the trail – on or off trail for that matter – and have handled abrasion situations very well in my experience. Long story short, it is hard to beat a good gridstop fabric for packs. Gridstop may not be the most waterproof, but I have gridstop packs with a decade+ of usage that are still quite water resistant and there are other ways to keep your backpacking gear dry. This would include using a pack liner or a large dry bag or two…or alternatively a trash compactor bag would be suggested in regards to pack waterproofing. Gridstops aren’t as trendy as laminates, but I fully expect 10 years or more of use out of packs made with these gridstop ~200+ denier nylon fabrics and there is a lot to be said for that. Back to backpacks, for the lightest of the light, the Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60L (60L total storage, about 22 ounces, $400) is worth consideration – this pack is rated to carry 40lbs via a carbon fiber frame system with integrated back ventilation and as a bonus is also available in a women's specific version. The pack uses a lighter Ultra 100X to save weight – so this pack will be better for users that are willing to be a little careful with their gear in order to save the weight. Summary: Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks ULA Circuit ULA Catalyst ULA Spark (for kids) Durston Kakwa 55 Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60 & Women's Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs Weight (of the pack itself...or weight carried within it for that matter) can quickly spiral out of control in this category, with some manufacturers offering packs here that can weigh well over 5lbs. In this category we have a few main venerable larger players, with one example being the Gregory Baltoro and the Gregory Deva series, in particular the Baltoro 75 liter (~80 ounces, $360) and the Baltoro 85 Pro (around 88 ounces, $400), with the women’s version being offered in the Deva 70 backpack (about 75 ounces, $360) as well as the larger Deva 80 Pro pack (~84 ounces, $400). If you’re looking for a cushy mainstream get-it-done pack to haul large loads that can be on your doorstep a few days from now, the Baltoro and Deva packs have been a go-to for many years and are rated to carry up to 70lbs. Saving weight for the pack itself is not however a strong point here. If you’ll be hauling a heavy load (long trips, lots of food and water, or extras like packrafts or camera gear) but still have a lightweight approach like me, you may need to look at smaller companies to fill this niche. Leaders in this category include the Superior Wilderness Designs Wolverine 95L (a 70L is also offered) pack as well as their 95L Big Wild pack (no large outside back pocket), also offered in a 70L version. While color is usually not my primary concern when selecting a pack, these two SWD packs for better or worse are only made in Ultra 400X fabric which only comes in white or black – which I’d have to say, would be towards my last 2 choices when it comes to something like a pack or tent color. That said, these packs are rated to carry up over 50lbs for around $400 and will come in around 40 ounces for the pack itself, plus or minus depending on options. Be sure to check out their available add-ons if you want something like a hydration port or hipbelt pockets. Hipbelt pockets offer convenience and storage for smaller items you'd like to keep immediately at hand. A few other packs stand out here: Nunatak makes extraordinary gear and offers their Plateau Pack (around 40 ounces, $350) with an up to 75L capacity and capable of carrying 50+ lbs. This pack is more custom built and you’ll have to see if things like hydration ports or hipbelt pockets can be added. Be it Superior Wilderness Designs or Nunatak or even Seek Outside which we'll talk about to follow, plan in advance and buckle up for some wait times. Seek Outside offers a couple packs worth checking out – although Seek Outside seems to lean towards the lightweight backcountry hunting crowd at times, some of their products can be used for lightweight backpacking like the 79L Divide 4800 2.0 ($505, 55 ounces). However, Seek Outside takes no custom requests so if you want something like a hydration port, you’re out of luck unless you want to start cutting and sewing yourself. The largest pack they offer with a hydration port is currently the Gila 3500 2.0 ($485, 51 ounces). The Gila isn't all that large of a pack (for a load hauler pack) with a 57 liter pack bag, but you can use the top strap and bottom straps to carry items on the outside and the pack features Seek Outside's load hauling frame. Seek Outside’s frames are very uniquely rated for pretty much whatever weight you can physically carry, so if you’re looking to grab a single pack that can handle just about whatever you can throw at it in regards to pack weight, these are the packs that would be up to the task. Summary: Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs Gregory Baltoro Gregory Deva SWD Big Wild 95 SWD Wolverine 95 Nunatak Plateau Pack Seek Outside Divide 4800 2.0 Seek Outside Gila 3500 2.0 Best Budget Backpacking Packs If you want to keep it under $200 (at least before shipping and tax) – which I would very much consider a budget range for a backpacking pack – the previously mentioned Durston Kakwa 55 in UltraGrid offers quite a bit of value in this category as long as you’re packing somewhat lightweight, with the REI Co-op Flash 55 (about 55 liters, just under 3lbs, $200) offering another option that’s worth ample consideration. The REI Co-op Flash has the bonus of being offered in both a men’s and women’s version and in my experience, this line has demonstrated good value and very acceptable performance. Another interesting sub-$200 option can be found in the Osprey Rook 65 backpack (men's) and the Osprey Renn 65L (women's). Designed to carry up to 40lbs, these packs offer 65 liters of space, basic features, and can be had for about $190 while weighing in just under 4lbs. A pack from the REI Co-op Flash series. It is also worth checking out the REI Co-op Outlet from time to time, as you can often find many packs or last year’s model that will be perfectly serviceable at a discount here. For a budget load hauler pack, this can be tough since these are typically the larger and more feature-packed (expensive) options. The aforementioned REI Co-op Outlet is a good place to start your search. That said the Kelty Asher 85 is also worth consideration – as you’d expect it’s an 85 liter pack that weighs in close to 6 pounds, but can carry a heavy load and retails for just under $200 full price. With use but not abuse, I’ve found that a quality lightweight backpacking pack can last quite some time – a decade or so – of frequent use. For me they can be pushed beyond that on trips but they will be showing some wear and tear. A backpack is critical for comfort on the trail however, so with that 10 year mark in mind that I get out of quality packs, I’m not afraid to spend up a bit if it translates to durability and additional comfort on the trail. Summary: Best Budget Backpacking Packs Durston Kakwa UltraGrid REI Co-op Flash 55 Osprey Rook 65 Osprey Renn 65 REI Co-op Outlet Packs Kelty Asher 85 My Approach to Backpacking Packs and in Conclusion If you like to keep your gear simple and want one pack to do it all, there are a few ways to go about your approach. You can pick a pack rated for the heaviest load you’ll ever carry, and while it may be a bit much for shorter trips it will work. Or you could go for a pack rated for the typical load you’ll carry, but your shoulders may be complaining at the start of longer trips. This can be done if you’re only rarely expecting to take these kinds of trips and saving the cash is more important than comfort (not my choice). You could also pick a pack for overnights, another for most trips in the middle, and an even larger pack for load hauling and the longest excursions. For me, I like two packs: one do it all (from the lightweight and long distance category) and another load hauler for extended trips with extra gear. One advantage of this route (multiple packs) is that it spreads the wear out a bit and your packs will last longer. For more information on how to choose a backpacking backpack, size, materials, and pack features and considerations, see our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking and Hiking Backpack. For a large selection of various backpacking packs that you can sort and filter by capacity and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For Related reading on the "big 3" see our articles, Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget as well as How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag.

A backpacking sleeping pad very importantly provides warmth by insulating us from the cold ground at night, and ideally a sleeping pad will also provide sufficient comfort to allow for a good night of rest. As an item that’s one of the heaviest and bulkiest core gear items you will carry on any backpacking trip, the sleeping pad requires some thought and consideration when it comes to selection and application. With a multitude of options available there's a sleeping pad to specifically suit any season and backpacking trip, as well as those that offer a wide range of versatility across many situations. In this article we'll look at things to consider and features of some of the best sleeping pads on the market today. When considering a backpacking sleeping pad, weight, warmth, comfort, and durability should all be considered. R-Value and Warmth The most important function a sleeping pad serves is to keep you warm; although we all like to be comfortable we can’t be comfortable if we’re cold. Thus, consider a sleeping pad’s r-value when making a choice. However, there’s no free lunch; the warmer the pad the heavier and bulkier it will be. As such we have to seek a balance just like anything else. For general 3-season use here in the Rockies where it always gets a bit chilly at night, I target a sleeping pad with an r-value of at least 3. Combined with an appropriate sleeping bag for the forecasted lows of course, I’ve found this to provide sufficient warmth into the higher 20’s. When it will be colder, I combine this pad with the thinnest (1/4" or less) and lightest generic closed cell foam pad I can find particularly of the Evazote foam variety that can easily be cut down to a custom size or folded over to double up if needed. Options like the ULA Siesta pad or this option on Amazon, and foam pads sometimes carried by many cottage makers / vendors also work well. Essentially, you are looking for a thin 1/8" to 1/4" foam pad that will cover you width wise (depends on your main pad width of choice), and at least offer torso length coverage or more. This system will keep me comfortably warm to the high teens. If it will be colder than that I will combine my usual sleeping pad with a thick foam pad of nearly an equal r-value. As an example, the Exped Synmat UL7 – find our full review here – which is my choice for an inflatable pad – combined with something like the Z Lite Sol foam pad and the aforementioned thin foam pad will provide a total r-value approaching 6. A combo like this has kept me warm on winter trips well below 0. On this trip with a low for the night well below 0, I packed both this RidgeRest Solar plus an insulated inflatable. Some inflatable pads like the Exped Ultra 1R feature no insulation at all (r-value around 1) and basically provide mostly comfort from the ground, but not cold ground. These pads are lighter and cheaper, and might be useful for a dedicated summer sleeping pad in warm locales. On the flipside some winter sleeping pads, such as the Exped Dura 8R or the NeoAir X-Therm NXT MAX, are heavily insulated and would be sufficiently warm all on their own for cold winter camping and for cold sleepers. On both sides of the coin though each are on the specialized end of the spectrum; I prefer the adaptable approach of using one 3-season rated pad, and then adding in a thin, or thicker foam pad when needed for colder temperatures. For the 3-season pad I like an inflatable to provide the comfort and some baseline level of insulation, and when combined with the additional foam pad the foam pad protects the inflatable and will even serve as a fail-safe should the inflatable spring a leak. As a general starting guide an r-value of 2+ has been useful for me on summer trips in the mountains and for 3-season use in warmer locations; warm into the 30 degree range. I find an r-value of 3+ most useful all-around, providing sufficient warmth for most 3-season trips in the mountains and down to the 20 degree range. However if you're a cold sleeper or sleep warm, you can implement some respective addition or subtraction here. For winter trips I do not mess around and take a combination of pads totaling a 5-6+ r-value. Pads that feature an r-value under 2 I find useful only as part of a larger system (as a solution to boost warmth as part of an overall sleep system), but not on their own. Sleeping Pad Size Sleeping pads are usually offered in multiple lengths and depending on your height and use, an appropriate fit can be found. If you’re going with an ultralight approach a shorter pad can work that offers coverage for the most important part of your body – your torso and core, but your feet and legs will hang off the end. To insulate this area you can pile gear and your backpack – that might just have an insulating foam backpanel – at the bottom of the shorter sleeping pad. This will save the most weight, but still will not be as warm or as comfortable as a longer pad. My preference is to use a pad that’s at least close to my height. A few inches shorter is fine as we often sleep a bit shorter than our height with knees and back bent, etc., or longer than your height offers the most luxury. Either way, by getting your whole body on the pad you will sleep warmer. The standard width for most sleeping pads is 20 inches. Often a wide version (not really standardized, but usually 25”) is also offered and even up to double wide pads for two like the Exped Ultra 3R Duo sleeping pad are offered. Two one-person pads can always be strapped together – Sea to Summit makes the best solution for this I’ve used. Preference will of course depend on your size and sleeping style. A 20” pad works for me, but there’s not much wiggle room and I do sleep better on a wider pad that offers more room to bend your knees for side sleepers or for toss and turners. Many tents are based around this 20” width standard, so be sure your pad will fit in your shelter of choice and combined with whatever width pad your partner may have if you’re sharing a tent. Either way longer and wider pads offer more comfort but at the cost of an increase in weight and bulk. I’ve accumulated several sizes over the years, so on trips where I’ll be covering a lot of miles I take a standard 6’ pad; on more relaxed trips I like the comfort my Synmat LW (Long/Wide) offers. No matter the size, you will find sleeping pads available in both a traditional rectangular shape as well as in tapering, mummy shapes that narrow towards the feet. While tapered pads offer some weight savings, a rectangular sleeping pad offers more room. The lower section of a mummy-shaped sleeping pad. Weight is saved, but there's not as much toss and turn room. Weight A great target for an adequately warm and comfortable full length standard 3-season sleeping pad for most locations is around 1lb with the weight falling below that as we get into shorter and/or less warm pads, and above that as we get into longer, wider, and warmer pads. Save for a dedicated winter pad, approaching the 2lb mark is best reserved for sleeping pads in more of the super comfortable and warm, but heavy and bulky car camping variety. If you'll be focusing on car camping, weight shouldn't be a concern. The best car camping sleeping pads will be those that are warm, comfortable, and durable. That said, back to the trail... Closed Cell Foam Pads The simplest and cheapest option to go with is a closed cell foam sleeping pad. I’m much more comfortable on an inflatable pad, but as previously described, I still have an assortment of closed cell foam pads in my gear stash to combine with an inflatable pad for additional warmth on shoulder season and winter trips with my 3-season rated Exped Synmat UL7. However, the foam pad excels in the reliability department – it won’t leak and you don’t have to carry a patch kit. They are also usually cheaper. The downside is they pack bulky and you will probably have to carry it on the outside of your backpack. This can be a pro though, as the pad will be easily accessible to use as a sit pad on breaks and for lunch. Foam pads are usually just around an inch thick or a bit less, and then compress further when you’re on it. You will definitely feel the ground and any rocks or roots that might occupy your campsite, but if the comfort works for you the foam pad is a reliable and affordable choice. Note that you will want to avoid open cell foam pads, as they will absorb water and when they do they take a long time to dry. Reserve these for use on the futon at home. Foam pads are bulky to carry, but convenient for breaks. Most foam pads can be had for under $50. Some popular options include such venerable choices as the generic blue foam pad, the Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest (a classic), and the more conveniently packed Z Lite pad. And in recent years, you can now find that classic foam pads from Therm-a-Rest have been updated with an aluminized reflective (warmer) coating as seen in the Z Lite Sol pad for a small boost in warmth and durability. Overall a foam sleeping pad will above all be dependable, but not the most comfortable or easy to carry. Inflatable Pads Inflatable sleeping pads offer a few advantages and disadvantages compared to their closed cell foam cousins. Usually thicker than foam pads when inflated, an air pad can keep you totally off the ground and the inflation level can be adjusted to suit your own comfort preference. Thinner inflatables are better for back sleepers and the thicker variety better for side sleepers. If you toss and turn, look for a design that is raised around the sides a bit to help center you on the pad and keep you from falling off in the night. Inflatable pads also pack smaller, usually around the size of a Nalgene and even a long / wide inflatable will easily fit inside a backpack. Most air pads usually feature baffles arranged in a horizontal, vertical, or sometimes in a pod like arrangement like the Sea to Summit Ultralight – one of our tested sleeping pads we’ve previously reviewed. Preference varies; I like the lengthwise tubes that I find help me stay centered on the pad. Self-inflating pads usually have a flatter sleeping surface. The downside of inflatable pads is that they can be punctured, baffles can fail, you have to inflate it, and to be sufficiently warm inflatable pads will use insulation or special baffles that bump up the price. When I carry an inflatable, I also bring a patch kit along just in case, and use care where I put the pad. For inflation I prefer to not use my breath, not only can this be a little difficult at high altitudes after a long day, but it introduces moisture. Many manufacturers offer a pump bag solution – like the Exped Scnhozzel I use, and battery operated pumps are even available. The standard of inflatables a couple decades ago, some are still self-inflating, but the self-inflating pad has become rarer in recent times. Keeping air pads protected and inside your tent is ideal. Many people may also take a smaller foam pad to use as a dedicated sit pad in this situation. The texture of sleeping pad surfaces vary, and some inflatable pads can be a bit noisy and some can also have slick surfaces that can migrate around the tent, or have you migrating on top of them at night. Some strategic dots of Seam Grip SIL on your (especially if it’s silnylon) tent floor can help mitigate the slipping, and if you combine an inflatable with a foam pad of any type as I often do in colder weather it will mitigate this issue. For an inflatable lightweight insulated sleeping pad, you are probably looking at something in the $100-$200 range. Popular inflatable pads can be found in the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir series (view at REI) that utilize a combination of baffling and aluminized reflective features to provide warmth, options from Sea to Summit that use microfiber insulation, and many options of various insulation types exist from makers like Big Agnes and Nemo Equipment. The best backpacking sleeping pads will feature a blend of warmth, weight, packed size, and durability. If you choose the most extreme of any category, it will likely be at the cost of something else. My System & Best Backpacking Sleeping Pads Just like sleeping bags, selecting a backpacking sleeping pad is without a doubt, a huge balance between weight, comfort, price, reliability, and warmth – and while there’s no best sleeping pad and no free lunch, with so many options out there there’s no doubt the right sleeping pad that suits your style can be found. As a side sleeper who values all the above points fairly equally and has been testing sleeping pads for decades, I like a comfortable 3-season inflatable pad as the main cog in my sleeping pad system, and add in a thin foam pad for just a touch of additional warmth when it's needed and a thicker foam pad for winter conditions. Some of the best sleeping pad choices on the market can be quickly narrowed down to a few choices. Options include the NEMO Tensor All Season sleeping pad (around $200, 1lb) which is an excellent choice for 3-season use where warmth is appreciated, but it still might get chilly to below freezing at night. With a 5.4 r-value and a rectangular sleeping shape, this pad has a warmth to weight to space ratio that would have seemed impossible a decade ago. The NEMO Tensor All Season is our pick as the top overall sleeping pad currently on the market. For those looking to save more weight, the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT ($210, 13 ounces in the regular mummy) gets the weight down to an even more ultralight level with sufficient warmth for 3-season trips, and will save some space in the tent and pack if needed (this pad is also available in a rectangular shape). For winter trips, the pads above can be combined with a foam pad to boost warmth. The Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest (available in a large size) or the more packable Z Lite SOL would be suggested. That said, for dedicated winter backpacking enthusiasts, or for very cold sleepers the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm NXT and NXT MAX sleeping pads with their 7.3 r-values are class leading options. For a full selection of lightweight sleeping pads that you can then narrow down by type, price, size, etc. take a look here at REI.com.

For backpackers in all but the most temperate and low elevation climates, a down jacket is an almost indispensable piece of gear. While fleece jackets, wool sweaters, or synthetic insulation pieces can provide warmth, their ability to do so at a comparable warmth-to-weight ratio as a down jacket is lacking. Although synthetic pieces are certainly catching up in the warmth-to-weight regard and their ability to insulate when wet provides a distinct advantage, there is a reason why the most common insulating jacket you'll see on backpackers is the down jacket – it works well and has been proven (and improved) over time. There are also plenty of down jackets to choose from – hundreds of options appear when searching "down jacket" on online outdoor retailers. Most backpackers will want a jack-of-all-trades type of down jacket. The Feathered Friends Eos jacket is an excellent example of this type of down jacket and, after a year of wearing it on various trips in the Northern Rockies and Pacific Northwest, I’ve found that it’s overall an excellent jacket in general. The Feathered Friends Eos Jacket One of Feathered Friends lightweight jackets (the company also offers jackets in midweight and expedition categories), the hooded Eos is an ideal jacket for serious backpackers who don't cancel trips because the forecast might involve some ice forming in their water bottle overnight. While not warm enough – or intended for – use as a primary insulating layer in extreme cold, this jacket will keep you warm in all but the most record-breaking temperatures or highest elevations for most three-season backpacking in North America's mountains. Filled with 900+ fill power goose down, this jacket leaves nothing be desired in regard to insulation. Worn over a midweight baselayer, this jacket was plenty of insulation while watching the sun rise from the breezy catwalk of an abandoned lookout with temperatures in the mid-teens. Tossing a shell over it in similar conditions has kept me warm during periods of low-activity at temperatures down to the upper single digits, but any lower would've been stretching the limits of comfort. The sewn-through construction does theoretically leave the jacket vulnerable to cold spots, but the overall impact on the warmth provided was negligible. The pockets on this jacket were extremely comfortable and just the right size – large enough to hold a glove, warm a pair of socks, or stash a headlamp, but not so large as to swallow the item and have it awkwardly rolling around. This jacket unfortunately lacks one of my favorite features of another down jacket I own (an Outdoor Research Transcendent that was slightly less warm and four ounces heavier, but a solid jacket which the Eos replaced after eight years of dutiful service): internal stash pockets that are perfect for warming up a pair of socks or gloves and storing other bulky clothing items. As warm as this jacket is, its weight – at 11.93 ounces for a men’s medium (advertised average weight is 10.6 ounces) without the stuff sack (0.38 ounces) – is exceedingly reasonable. There are certainly other jackets on the market that are much lighter, but they often either have dialed back features, less down fill, lack a hood, or are extremely expensive. For a hooded, full-featured down jacket that is this warm I think just shy of three-quarters of a pound is nothing to agonize over. After having experienced the bane of zipper failure on other pieces of clothing and gear, I’ve started paying a lot of attention to zippers. And the zippers on this jacket are as solid as they come. The pockets and the main zipper function as to be expected and, somewhat surprising given how stuffed with down the jacket is, I’ve yet to experience anything other than the slightest snag, and that only rarely. A hem cord helps keep drafts out of this jacket, which is helpful since I found the cut to be capable of layering over a very thin fleece in the coldest conditions, but which otherwise fit perfectly. The lycra cuffs snugly fit my wrists and kept their shape well even after lots of use and pulling the cuffs up my forearms when washing dishes, filtering water, and other tasks where I didn’t want to get them wet. The hood is not adjustable but its design was so efficient that it never left me feeling like I needed the cinch cords that are on most of my other hooded down jackets. I’m a big believer in the power of Pertex Quantum fabrics and was pleased to see that was what Feathered Friends used for this jacket. Not only is Pertex Quantum a practical fabric choice, but I find it to be very comfortable when touching the skin, like when the jacket is worn over a t-shirt at a chilly lunch break or around camp on a mild evening. The outer shell of the jacket is treated with DWR and sheds drizzle and snow as well as would be expected for a non-waterproof fabric – which is basically to say well enough to not panic if your rain shell was mistakenly placed at the bottom of your pack. Since the down is not hydrophobically treated, once it gets wet you’re out of luck, but as any reasonable backpacker knows you carry a shell to protect the layers you don’t want to get wet. Over time and after washing, you can always restore the DWR / durable water repellent using a spray-on DWR restorer if needed. With all the bases covered in regard to warmth, weight, and basic features, this jacket is a solid piece of gear by any objective standards. I was also pleased with the subjective characteristics of this jacket, like its color and the color of the zippers. It adds a nice bit of richness to what could otherwise be a bland and utilitarian item. The cut of this jacket was ideal for me (5’11”, 160 lbs.) and fit true to the size (men’s medium). The stuff sack included with the jacket is functional, but I most often opted to store the jacket in an eVent compression sack with my sleeping bag to consolidate the items in my pack. Feathered Friends Eos jacket packed size Conclusion Last but not least, it is worthwhile to note that this jacket is made in Seattle, Washington from imported materials. I’ll refrain from getting into a discussion of economics, trade policies or non-economic values, but I think that buying a high-quality piece of gear made in the United States is something worth feeling good about. At $409, this jacket is certainly not a purchase to be made on a whim. But given the cost of other similar jackets (both in regard to warmth and weight), this price seems to fall within the ever-vague bounds of “fair”. Overall, I found this jacket to be excellent in all regards and would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone who backpacks in areas where the temperatures dip down to freezing or below. Down jackets, like most big gear purchases, are an item that you want to get right the first time. Opting for the Feathered Friends Eos gives you solid odds of doing just that. The Feathered Friends EOS retails for $409. Find it here at Feathered Friends and in both men’s and women’s versions. Editor's Note: This review originally appeared in Issue 38 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original review here featuring additional photos, pros and cons, and our rating of the Eos jacket from Feathered Friends.

If you search the Internet you'll find a couple of places that rent equipment. GoPro seems to be a popular rent by some people just getting started. It's inclusive. Batteries, cards and the like. That way hikers sample a product and then buy or move on. Sony has some good quality cameras for rent through bigger camera stores. Some Sony models are great looking images and good sound recording. Good luck and it would be nice to hear what you used and maybe see a sample.

Hi Mark, Thank you for your input! So I have some questions. I am looking for a 4/5 day trip (80-100 km) that includes forest, alpine and solitude. So your article pointed me in the right direction. Because I am looking for a loop what intrigued me is that you name off-trail travel. Can you name some meadows/passes that are off-trail and don’t include any glacier travel, that might form a great loop? Thank you! Geert van Mourik

No matter your approach to backpacking – ultralight, comfort light, traditional, or whatever our own unique approaches may be in the gear department, backpacking in and of itself goes hand in hand with a gear list (whether on paper or simply in our heads), making a way to carry all that stuff one of the most important gear related items we need to consider. What follows is a guide to selecting an appropriate backpack for hiking and backpacking, including an overview of features, technologies, materials, and other considerations that are needed when it comes to selecting the best backpacking backpacks. REI Co-op Flash 45 Backpack (our review) The Backpack Frame As soon as you start to carry more than 15-20lbs on a trip (including food and water), which is the case for the great majority of backpackers with a full pack, a pack with a frame should be selected to help transfer the weight of the pack off your shoulders and on to your hips. While in years past the great debate was internal frame backpacks vs. those with external frames, the majority of choices on the market today will feature an internal frame when it comes to the multiday hiking backpack category. If you're in the market for an ultralight backpacking pack, with a few exceptions you'll be looking at internal framed packs (or even frameless on the extreme end of the spectrum). Some companies that offer packs like this include Hyperlite Mountain Gear (view their lineup here), backpacks from Zpacks, etc. On the flip side externally framed packs are now available with cutting edge materials and designs that are significantly lighter than the traditional heavy and tubular external framed packs of days past, so with packs breaking out of the mold in many cases, I like to focus more on the other specifications of a pack rather than agonizing over the internal vs. external backpack frame debate. As long as it has a frame – commonly made of aluminum, carbon fiber, or a high density plastic sheet – other specifications such as maximum weight carrying capacity, materials used, comfort, and organization are most important to me. Many frameless backpacking packs exist and are more specialized in nature, suitable for ultralight loads and as such usually most appropriate for shorter duration trips where less food will have to be carried and in areas where water sources are frequent. With careful packing however these ultralight frameless packs can still be used if you’re very diligent about how much weight you’ll be carrying and especially if you are concerned about having the lightest possible total pack weight. However, their use is limited and I find it more feasible to utilize a framed pack on short trips where I might be carrying an extra pound of pack or so, rather than trying to deal with the limited weight carrying capacity of a frameless pack (and often limited storage capacity) on a longer trip. Some frameless packs will even omit a hip belt to save more weight, but even on a frameless pack I still prefer a hip belt – while weight transfer to your hips will be limited without a frame, every little bit helps. While frameless packs will always boast the best weights, often hovering around just 1lb, thankfully many lightweight framed packs are now available from many manufacturers. For most backpacking purposes a framed pack weighing 2-3lbs is a great range to target, and perhaps a bit more if you like to carry a heavier range of gear, food, or water – or all of the above. And like shoes, backpack fit and comfort is critical and this is where it pays to take some extra time measuring your torso length and checking out the manufacturer’s sizing guide, as framed packs are usually available in several sizes. Often each size will have a bit of adjustment built in, and will be provided by moving the hip belt or shoulder strap attachment points in order to fine tune the fit. Capacity Expressed in cubic inches or liters, the most popular sizes for modern backpacking would be options in the 45 liter range (~2750 cubic inches) like the REI Flash 45 – quite appropriate for most weekend trips – and packs stepping up in size into the 60 liter range, which I find most appropriate for week long trips or so. Both sizes can be pushed a bit beyond these limits and depending on your other gear and packing style. Regardless, there will be times when a 45 liter is a bit too small or a 60 liter a bit too large, but it comes down to a personal decision and how your trips typically take place; some of us are weekend warriors with others tending to head out only on longer trips. The other strategy is collecting multiple packs and picking from your collection depending on the trip at hand. For me, I like one pack that can do it all just to keep it simple (and cheaper), with my 4200 cubic inch (this includes all storage – not just the main compartment) ULA Circuit serving as my workhorse backpacking pack for all trips. With around 10 days the longest I will go at a stretch (this is about as much food as I prefer to carry at once), the pack will be at its limits early in the trip, but is perfect after a few days. For overnights or weekends in the summer where gear is minimal, my jack of all trades pack will have some extra space, but I will just allow my down bag to loft up inside and it’s always better to be in a situation where your pack is suited to carry more weight than you actually are carrying than the other way around. The other capacity consideration is in regards to weight. Backpacks with a beefier frame and more sturdy hip belts will allow you to carry more weight comfortably, but as we increase in weight capacity the weight of the actual backpack itself increases as well, forcing a balance to be struck. Again here we need to evaluate the length of our typical backpacking trip and normal proximity to water sources (water is heavy). One pack will not be perfectly suited for every condition. Whether you are just starting your collection of backpacking gear or are looking to upgrade an existing pack, this is also the time where it pays to evaluate all the rest of your backpacking gear, weigh it, and figure out how much food and water you’ll also usually be carrying before buying the pack itself. My preference again is to go with a lightweight pack that is suitable for carrying the full weight of all my gear, the full weight of my food even on day 1 of most trips, and all that combined with all the water I’ll be carrying. Sure, the occasional longest of trips might be a little heavy on my shoulders until I eat a day of food, but 95% of the time the pack will be near perfect. A little math at home here will pay off later on the trail. Features and Organization 25 years ago – when you’d find inspirational, beautiful brochures detailing a popular manufacturer’s complete line of external framed packs along with the latest Campmor catalog in your mailbox, packs seemingly had a compartment or pocket for everything. Dedicated sleeping bag compartment. Swiss Army knife pocket. Zippered storage for your MSR white gas fuel bottle. The list goes on. While organization is a key component to finding what you need quickly on the trail, there’s no reason to go overboard, or under when choosing a backpack. I like the big 4: Main storage compartment, outside pocket or storage, hip belt pockets, and dual side water bottle pockets. I’ve found this arrangement to be the best balance for me on the trail, and I then utilize further lightweight stuffsacks if additional organization is needed – rather than just throwing the complete contents of my first aid kit randomly in the main compartment of the pack for example. With this arrangement you are able to pack anything you’ll need only at camp inside the main compartment (sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc.), pack anything you might need immediately at hand during the day in the outside pocket of the pack like rain gear – this pocket can be in the form of a lid or pocket on the rear of the backpack. You’ll also have easy access to small frequently used items, or emergency items in your hip belt and side water bottle pockets – things like a small camera, snacks, whistle, and water bottles themselves – all without having to take your pack off. Even if you're in the market for an ultralight backpack, you should be able to find these features even on the lightest backpacks. Additional attachment points are always nice to have on longer trips or for those times you might be carrying extra gear. This ability can come in many forms – bungee systems on the outside of the pack, ice axe loops, etc., with the main concern here being their existence without getting in the way or adding too much weight to the pack. Often, normal closure or compression straps can also be utilized to hold items you might want to secure to the outside of your pack like a bulky foam sleeping pad. Top loading hiking backpacks feature a large opening on top of the pack – either a roll top design which works well for compression and water resistance, or with a drawstring closure often covered by a “lid” or “brain” with a pocket. Panel loading packs, which operate a bit like a suitcase with long zippers, are also available if you feel you prefer easy access to all of your gear at once, however panel loading hiking backpacks will often be a bit more complicated and a little heavier. Although it may go without saying, other features such as a sternum strap, load lifters for framed packs to pull the load closer to your center of gravity and move more weight off your shoulders, a comfortable hip belt, and features like a padded backpanel are all things to check off the list. Other features such as ventilated backpanels, hydration sleeves and ports, or trekking pole holders for example should be sought after on a preferential basis. Materials Protecting the rest of your gear contained within, and other than shoes and trekking pole tips, backpacks face one of the roughest existences on the trail of all the gear we carry. However, going over-durable here can lead to an overly heavy pack, but we still need something that can withstand being dropped on the ground and rocks repeatedly, leaned against scraggly trees, and contact with brush and boulders without having to constantly repair or replace our pack. Often the simple eye test can give an indication of just how durable all the various fabrics utilized for backpacks may be. Silnylon and standard Cuben / Dyneema Composite Fabrics dominate the ultralight pack market, but are not particularly durable fabrics in regards to abrasion resistance. A water resistant ripstop nylon pack fabric A hybrid Dyneema fabric is also available, featuring a polyester face fabric for increased abrasion resistance while still taking advantage of the waterproofness and strength of the base Dyneema material (seams may however, not be sealed or taped in any water resistant pack). Heavier duty ripstop nylons and Dyneema gridstop are more popular fabrics and offer a great balance of weight and durability. The latter two options frequently feature a PU coating for waterproofing, which will degrade over time – no matter the case one should always further waterproof their critical gear by way of waterproof stuff sacks, or by using a pack liner of some type – usually just a larger version of a waterproof stuff sack or a trash compactor bag. A pack cover is another way to approach waterproofing, and some packs like the REI Co-op Traverse (view at REI) include a rain cover that can be stashed in the pack when not in use. In rainy conditions, an outside mesh pocket can be nice to have for drying gear, once the rain does stop. In all cases, if the bottom of the pack is reinforced with a double layer or heavier duty material this is always a bonus, with this location being the most susceptible to abrasion and wear. Straps and Belts A backpacking backpack designed for carrying heavy loads will frequently feature heavily cushioned shoulder straps and hip belts, while lightweight packs and ultralight packs will typically feature minimal padding in this regard. I usually carry loads up to around 50lbs on extended backpacking trips, and find that I typically prefer minimal padding on a hip belt, with medium padding on shoulder straps. With the minimal padding, I just feel more connected to the pack and frankly, I think that backpack fit is most important here. Some backpacking backpacks like the ULA Circuit, are worth consideration for their dual adjustable hip belt straps that pull inward. This allows both for a more ergonomic fit and adjustment. Make sure you can easily reach and adjust all straps on your pack, including your load lifter, shoulder straps, and hip belt straps all on the fly. Instead of more pockets than you can count and technical fabric and frame materials, the best backpacking backpack for you might just be the one that's simply the most comfortable and isn't a hassle to adjust on the trail. In Review Thankfully, as a required item for backpacking there are no shortage of lightweight, framed, frameless, heavy duty, ultralight, top loading, panel loading, and men’s or women’s backpacks – or various combinations of these designs – on the market today. No matter your take and approach on the subject, the best backpack for hiking on those extended trips might be the one that you end up thinking about the least while on the trail; one that carries all your gear across the various intended situations with ease, all the while without weighing you down and one that is sufficiently durable to last for countless backcountry adventures. For a current list of backpacks that you can filter and sort by many of the features we’ve discussed in this post, see this page at REI.com. For our current choices so far as the best packs out there are concerned, see our related article: Best Backpacking Backpacks: From Overnight to Thru-hike.

When it comes to backpacking stoves, there are several routes one can take and several different main categories of stoves exist – each with an array of pros and cons. Without a doubt however, no matter which way you go about it the backpacking stove is an important part of any overnight or multi-night gear ensemble. A backpacking stove provides hot meals and drinks, goes a long way towards keeping you warm on chilly mornings and evenings, and for backpacking and hiking a stove needs to be convenient, lightweight, and reasonably fast to use with readily available fuel. The Canister Stove A canister stove uses a pressurized gas canister for its fuel source, and this fuel can be butane, isobutane, or propane and is usually a mixture of these fuels. These canisters are available in different sizes for varying trip lengths, and if you'll be using the canister in colder temperatures, you want to avoid a canister containing regular butane as its vaporization temperature is quite high in the 30 degree range (translation: your stove may not work / performance will suffer / it may be difficult to use in colder temperatures). However, canisters containing a mixture of isobutane and propane are much more suitable as temperatures drop. Isobutane will vaporize down to about the 10 degree mark and even lower as you gain altitude, and propane vaporizes down to the arctic-like temperature of minus 44, but there is only so much propane in your usual backpacking canister mix. Canister valves automatically open and close when you connect and disconnect the stove for ease of use and packing, and note that you can mix and match brands here – you don’t necessarily have to match the maker of your stove to your canister brand. As long as the canister has a Lindal valve you are good to go. Popular blended canister fuel brands include MSR IsoPro as well as fuel canisters from JetBoil and propane / isobutane mixtures from Snow Peak. Either way canister stoves offer convenience: they are easy to carry, usually fuel efficient, simple to use, and the pre-packaged fuel is likely readily available at your local outfitter. While having the fuel contained and prepackaged provides that convenience, they are non-refillable and after a while you are likely to end up with a bunch of canisters that don't have enough fuel to get you through a trip, but aren't empty either. They are recyclable if empty and punctured, and Jetboil makes a specific tool for that purpose. A necessary accessory for any canister stove user should be a digital kitchen scale that measures to the gram – this way you can always calculate the exact amount of fuel inside a canister before a trip. Canister stoves excel at boiling water, but you can dial the flame down and simmer…or even bake…with practice and with the right approach. Upright Canister Stoves Among canister stoves, upright canister stoves screw directly into the top of the canister and can be quite light – with many of these stoves falling in the 2-3 ounce range. I’ve used upright canister stoves with isobutane / propane canisters on trips with lows in the high teens, but usage much below these temperatures will become difficult, especially considering that the longer you use a canister in a sitting, the colder it will become – colder than the actual outside temperature – due to evaporative cooling. In cold or cooler temperatures it’s good to keep a few tricks in mind. In cold temperatures you can place the canister in a bit of water inside a container like a shallow bowl if needed to keep the canister’s temperature up and maintain performance, and sleeping with the canister inside your sleeping bag is never a bad idea when temps get chilly to give you a head start in the morning. Soto WindMaster Upright Canister Stove with MSR IsoPro 110 gram Fuel Canister Other types of upright canister stoves feature an all in one, integrated canister stove system like many of the system offerings made by Jetboil and options like the MSR WindBurner that are designed to be particularly efficient, at the cost of upfront weight, while saving fuel. These systems may be a good option if your primary need is boiling water. I personally prefer a more typical upright canister stove and like to choose different pots – like those from the Evernew Ultralight Series – depending on the trip. In recent years several upright canister stove options that utilize a pressure regulating valve have made it to the market, often claiming to increase overall and cold weather performance. While these stoves won't replace an inverted or liquid stove for cold conditions, I have found them to have better and more predictable performance overall when compared to other options featuring a standard needle valve. Popular upright canister stoves include my current choice, the Soto WindMaster – find our full review here, and a couple classic examples can be found in the MSR Pocket Rocket 2 and the Snow Peak GigaPower. Integrated canister stoves like the Jetboil Zip are also quite popular. Remote and Inverted Canister Stoves Remote canister stoves keep the canister remote from the burner and feed fuel via a hose. This allows for two benefits: remote canister stoves let you really shield the burner with a large windscreen to block wind and hold in heat to save fuel while the canister remains outside the windscreen – in an upright canister stove this would make the canister too dangerously hot. Secondly, if said remote canister stove allows you to use the fuel canister in an inverted position, a solution to the colder weather fuel vaporization issues previously discussed is realized, as using the canister upside down feeds fuel in a liquid form where it's subsequently preheated and vaporized at the hot burner of the stove itself in cold and very cold temperatures. For a remote canister stove that allows for inverted use, I use the MSR WindPro II. You can find our WindPro II review here. MSR WindPro II and Remote Canister For all types of canister stoves I like a dedicated starter if I can get it, and always look for built in piezo ignition. A separate piezo starter can be used if your stove of choice doesn’t feature one, or a lighter will do the job as well. Piezo igniters can fail, but they can also be replaced. Of course, always have a backup ignition source in your separate fire starting kit, but the convenience of a piezo igniter has far outweighed any small amount of hassle in my experience. No matter if you're using an upright or inverted canister fuel stove, be sure to dispose of spent fuel canisters appropriately. Liquid Gas Stoves The bread and butter stove of cold weather camping and for mountaineers alike, liquid fuel stoves like the venerable MSR Whisperlite are reliable options that burn white gas, or even an array of liquid fuels including gasoline for some stoves like the International version of the Whisperlite. A liquid fuel stove will work well in very cold weather, but most liquid fuel stoves are heavier and more cumbersome to use in regards to the need to handle liquid fuel in refillable fuel bottles, priming the stove, complicated hardware with more moving parts and maintenance etc. However, if you’re into group or complex meals like baking on the trail, a liquid stove may be hard to beat (options like the MSR Dragonfly are specifically designed with simmering in mind). A liquid fuel backpacking stove is thus perhaps best for the cold weather backpacker, the backpacking chef, or those who desire a stove that will work across all conditions who might not mind the extra weight and the potential hassle of a fuel bottle for 3 season use. Alcohol Stoves Alcohol stoves are designed to run on denatured alcohol (available at many hardware stores, etc.), or for my use I’ve always run them on the cleaner highest proof grain alcohol (Everclear). The benefits of an alcohol stove are weight and simplicity, there aren’t any complicated mechanisms or moving parts – you usually just fill and light the stove. With simplicity comes reduced weight, and the stove can even be made from tuna cans, soda cans, and the like. Alcohol stoves can be subject to fire restrictions and require some extra care with the open flame and fuel. I’ve used alcohol stoves across many conditions and my favorite offering is the Trail Designs Ti-Tri system that works well to trap the limited heat that an alcohol stove produces while blocking wind, greatly increasing efficiency. Another venerable alcohol stove option can be found in one of the several Trangia burners that are available. Alcohol Stove from Trail Designs Regardless, if you go with an alcohol stove you will definitely want a windscreen of some type. Alcohol stoves usually compete with upright canister stoves; ultimately the choice is up to you regarding which benefits you find most appealing and on longer trips, the increased efficiency of a canister stove may begin to cut into an alcohol stove’s weight savings. Fuel for an alcohol stove can perhaps be easier to find, and alcohol stoves have been popular for thru-hiking and ultralight backpacking usage for some time. With an alcohol stove you can dial in the exact amount of fuel you need prior to a trip instead of having to take a full canister each time, and perhaps taking too much fuel and the extra weight. On the other hand with a digital scale and some partial canisters to choose from, you can get close with a canister as well. Wood Burning Stoves Ti-Tri Wood Burning Stove Many wood stoves exist on the market, with of course the simplest way to cook with wood being a small campfire – which I’m most likely to use when cooking in this manner – although I’ve utilized the combo wood or alcohol burning Trail Designs Caldera Ti-Tri system for this purpose as well. A wood stove won’t beat a campfire in weight carried, but will beat it in convenience and efficiency. Cooking with wood of course requires you collect wood and start a fire, and would have to be ruled out in areas where fire bans are in effect. Wood also leaves residue on pots and the stove, but a wood fire is hard to beat for ambiance, and fuel is free and you don’t have to carry your fuel in your pack during the day. Chemical Tablet Stoves Stoves that burn manufactured hexamine chemical tablets like those from Esbit are quite efficient and very lightweight. Like alcohol stoves, you will want a windscreen to maximize efficiency and block any wind here. These tablets and Esbit fuel can be a bit hard to find if you’re in a pinch, but you can of course stock up from online sources. Esbit stoves leave a residue on your cookware and produce fumes, and as I prefer cleaner or more natural burning fuel alternatives, my experience with Esbit or other hexamine stoves is limited, but I can see the appeal for emergency or backup usage. Some ultralight backpackers however find Esbit fuel appealing for its simplicity and light weight. Esbit stoves, like the Esbit Titanium Stove are small, light, simple, and easily carried. Many backpackers would consider alcohol, wood, and solid fuel tablet stoves alternative fuel stoves. Final Thoughts As with nearly any other backpacking gear category, there may be no best backpacking stove, but hopefully the above information can assist with determining which option(s) would work best for you. While I own them all, these days my general approach is to take an upright canister stove (the Soto WindMaster) for 3 season use. Only when needed in very cold weather or anytime melting snow will be needed will I reach for an inverted canister stove. That same inverted canister stove – the MSR WindPro II, would work just fine in the summer as well if the extra weight wasn’t a concern. But whether you go with a one stove to do it all approach or like to mix and match to specifically meet the needs of the excursion at hand, any backpacking stove should ideally be durable, reliable, and have the ability to heat water and cook your cuisine of choice in a reasonable amount of time, and through whatever conditions will be encountered during a trip. For a full list of backpacking stoves that you can sort by fuel type and many of the points discussed in this article, check out this page at REI.com.

On any hiking or backpacking trip, the ability to procure drinking water during the hike is one of the most important logistical considerations for both pre-trip planning as well as while we’re on the trail. Finding the water is of course the first step, and having the necessary gear to properly process the water so it’s suitable to drink is the second part of the equation. Here we’ll look at the main types of water filters and backcountry water treatment methods that are best suited for backpacking and hiking, and elaborate on the necessary reading between the lines that needs to be done when choosing the best backpacking water filters or treatment options for backcountry use. An assortment of various types of backcountry water treatment options What We Need to Treat and Filter Microorganisms and Biological Concerns While protozoan concerns such as giardia and cryptosporidium get the most publicity, concerns are best looked at in a categorical fashion. Starting with biological contaminants from smallest to largest, viruses (example: hepatitis, rotavirus, often smaller than .1 micron) are notoriously difficult to filter as they can slip through most common filter’s pore size. Luckily, viruses are mostly a concern where there are many other people – for example where you might find untreated sewage. However, it’s always important to remember the source of the water you’re filtering. Bacteria (example: E.Coli, Salmonella, average size greater than .3 microns) are a more common concern in the wilderness as they are spread by both humans and wildlife, but luckily they are larger than viruses and more easily captured by most common filters. Protozoa are a bit larger and include cryptosporidium and giardia, and a filter that will filter to 1 micron or smaller is recommended for removal. Concerns that are larger still include tapeworm eggs and unsightly, but not necessarily dangerous, critters of various types in your water such as insect larvae. On many occasions I’ve scooped water from crystal clear mountain streams and upon close inspection, have been quite surprised at what that scoop reveals to the eye – from sticks and stones to tadpoles and worms of various types – not to mention what you can’t see. I prefer to get my calories from my food bag while backpacking, and luckily these larger organisms are of course, very easily filtered. Water sources will vary in purity, but various types of backcountry water treatment and filtration methods are available and can be utilized. Each method offers pros and cons, and I often prefer to use methods / technologies in combination depending on the trip. Other Treatment Considerations Many other components can make up the water you’re drinking in the backcountry as well. Chemicals, pesticides and herbicides, heavy metals, tannins, silt, taste and odor, as well as natural particulates of various types will need to be considered. Some of these concerns will only affect smell and taste, others could affect your health. Visible suspended matter is removed by most filters, but tannins and taste / smell can pass through – in my experience even drinking tea colored water however, has been fine. If your water source is downstream of an area that has seen prior or active agricultural or mining use for example, chemicals and other various components introduced by man could be in the water source, especially as you move further downstream in the water supply chain. To reduce these types of contaminants and concerns we can utilize a purifier or filter that contains a carbon stage, or add a carbon element or step to an existing setup to assist in reducing many of these possible impurities. Physical Filters and Purifiers Most water treatment products designed for backcountry use that are reasonably lightweight, will not address all of the above concerns in one fell swoop. Thus, we need to evaluate our backpacking and hiking destinations, as well as our own personal comfort level to find the best compromise. For backpacking in the mountainous wilderness areas of the United States for example, the general consensus is that viruses are usually not of a great concern, and many times our water sources are fairly pure from man-made pollution as we’re getting it close to the source. In these cases bacteria and protozoa are usually the main concerns. Other backcountry trips may find us filtering water on the banks of a river far from the source, that has passed through many towns before we consume it, perhaps on foreign soil, and the full gamut of contaminants are more of a possibility. Water filters do just what they say; they filter the water to a certain micron level to remove bacteria and protozoa. Water purification by definition, including options like the First Need XLE will take this all a step further by also removing viruses, though not all products that are officially listed as purifiers will remove or reduce chemicals, heavy metals, tannins, debris, etc. – your water may be purified by marketing general standards, but it will not necessarily be “pure”. A classic pump filter works well for pulling water out of hard to reach and shallow sources. Popular water filters for backcountry water treatment should filter to an absolute pore size of .3 microns or smaller for adequate removal of bacteria, protozoa, and all things larger. Note the absolute part of the pore size equation, as filters listed with a “nominal” pore size will only on average filter to that level. Absolute is a guarantee, and is the number we’re actually interested in. If you prefer viral protection, you will need an option with a much smaller absolute pore size; as a result flow rate will likely suffer and these types of purifiers are rare. Alternatively some filters combine with other technology to treat the virus part using an iodine or ion exchange process. Backpacking water purifiers that remove viruses physically can be found in the MSR Guardian as well as the LifeSaver Wayfarer pump purifiers. Other options combine a normal filter with a cartridge that contains an iodinated resin for added virus protection, while the Grayl purifier uses an ion exchange process to achieve this goal. Types of Filters Physical filtration can be achieved utilizing various types of elements and technologies. The most popular lightweight water filter technology today, hollow fiber filters work by passing water through a multitude of small tubes; tubes that are perforated by many, many, pores so small (rated to the micron) that anything larger than this pore size cannot pass through, trapping any living organisms or non-living matter larger than the pore size. Hollow fiber filters are popular for their light weight and versatility – you can pretty much find one in any filter configuration you prefer – be that as a gravity filter, inline filter, or pump. Hollow fiber filters can usually be backflushed to help restore flow rate, and flow rate will vary depending on pore size, surface area, and use. The most popular hollow fiber filters are in the .1 to .2 micron range making them sufficient for bacteria and protozoa, and this micron level is usually a good balance of protection, sufficient flow rate, and lifespan. Smaller micron, virus-rated filters also exist in this category as seen with the aforementioned Wayfarer purifier, but flow rate will be slower due to the smaller pore size. Gravity filters, an example shown here using hollow fiber filter technology, use the force of gravity to move water through the filter. Hollow fiber filters cannot be allowed to freeze when wet (the MSR Guardian is an exception) or after they've been used, so on trips where it will freeze at night you’ll need to sleep with the filter in your sleeping bag or carry it in your pocket any time temperatures begin to flirt with freezing during the day – this goes for nearly all other filters using different types of elements as well. In addition to freezing, physical filters also need to be treated with some care in regards to drops and impacts, which could damage the element. Some hollow fiber filters like the Platypus GravityWorks (read our full GravityWorks review here), and the Katadyn BeFree have manufacturer supported integrity tests which are very helpful for a little peace of mind – unlike other gear, you can’t really tell if a filter is working properly or not, without this test. Other types of physical filter media will use a ceramic element like the MSR EX filter, and the Katadyn Pocket Filter, or utilize a glass fiber element like the venerable Katadyn Hiker Pro. Ceramic filters have the ability to be repeatedly field cleaned. Some filters are entirely self-contained and will need to be thrown away when their flow rate diminishes too much to be of practical use, while others setups will have a replaceable cartridge that fits into a housing. Approaches to Filtering No matter what filter technology you end up going with, physical filters are most often utilized in an inline, gravity, squeeze, or pump configuration. The traditional pump water filter requires you to pump the water through the filter element via a hose in the water source, and is a proven setup at both getting you water and providing an ample upper body workout. Pump filters have moving parts and increase the complication and weight, but these are also great for pulling water out of hard to reach places. The other methods will require you to fill some type of reservoir with dirty water first, by either submerging the dirty water container or bag in the water source or, if it’s one of those shallow or small sources you occasionally may need to use a separate vessel to fill the dirty container, like a mug (boil later to sterilize). An inline water filter connected to a hydration setup treats water as you drink. Gravity setups like the Platypus GravityWorks and the Katadyn Gravity BeFree let gravity do the work for you, by filling a dirty reservoir with water and by elevating, hanging from a tree branch or rock if possible, water passes through the filter element into a clean container. Inline setups such as the MSR Thru-Link splice into the tubing of your hydration reservoir and your own drinking force filters the water with each sip, while with squeeze setups like the Sawyer Squeeze, you can utilize a combination of gravity and squeezing force to move the dirty water through the filter and the filtered water into a clean vessel or drink directly. Other options integrate the filter into a water bottle (LifeStraw Go Series) or softbottle (BeFree), where much in the same manner as an inline filter with a hydration reservoir, your drinking or a combination of drinking and squeezing is what filters the water as you go. Straw type options like the Lifestraw Peak (view at REI) are also another strategy, treating water by directly inserting one end into a water source and drinking from the other side of the straw. A straw filter is limited in that you cannot process larger volumes of water and each sip takes more work, and straw filters are perhaps best reserved more for emergency usage. In whatever case, seek out the cleanest water possible to prolong the life of your filter and for the best flow rate. While many filters can be backflushed or cleaned, this is usually a losing battle over time. Although filters are rated by the gallon or liter in regards to their lifespan, and while it’s a great idea to evaluate this when choosing a filter, take this number with a grain of salt. Clean water is important for other treatment methods as well; in very turbid situations it’s a good idea to allow water to settle in a separate container (in for example, a Sea to Summit Bucket), then treat from the top. Luckily, this is more of the exception than the norm for most of us. UV Treatment Ultraviolet treatment options like those offered by Steripen, come in various forms using either normal or rechargeable batteries, and utilize, as with many municipalities, UV light from a special lamp that’s inserted into your water container to neutralize many microorganisms by disrupting their DNA. This process usually takes about a minute and you’ll most likely be treating a liter of water or so at a time. Some other UV devices have come to market that feature an integrated lamp, like the (discontinued) Camelbak All Clear, and yet others have been designed to float from the surface of your water vessel. UV water treatment uses battery powered ultraviolet light that's inserted in a container to treat many microorganisms. On the plus side, these UV treatment options are quite effective at neutralizing the things that physical filters have the toughest time with – viruses – and the technology is proven. However, many are not comfortable relying on an electronic and potentially fragile instrument for their main or only wilderness water treatment source. Additionally, UV light on its own is not sufficient for neutralizing all living organisms that could be present in your water – tapeworm eggs for example, or larger organisms and larvae that may or may not do any harm but may not necessarily be what you want to ingest, nor will a UV product remove anything from the water or improve its composition. If the water is dirty, you’ll be drinking dirty water. Steripen offers a filter with a 40x40 micron mesh screen that can help here, which is intended to reduce organic matter or particulates. Performance may also be insufficient in murky water, requiring pre-filtration. All said, this is an excellent technology as long as you’re aware of the limitations; I utilize a Steripen Adventurer Opti as a secondary treatment with a hollow fiber filter on any trip where I desire viral treatment. Chemical Treatment Chemical treatment usually utilizing chlorine dioxide (Aquamira) or Iodine (Potable Aqua) and on occasion some other chemicals like household bleach or other chemicals that produce chlorine, like Aquatabs can be effective, but like anything this category has its share of pros and cons. In contrast to physical filters and like UV treatment, chemicals are again effective against viruses, but often take longer (hours) to work on such concerns as cryptosporidium (4 hours) and these products will add a taste to your water; other products are not suitable for cryptosporidium whatsoever. Advocates for chemical treatments praise the ease of just adding the treatment right into their water bottles and allowing the treatment to take place as they hike. To be honest, most of my thought goes into making sure my drinking water source is either free of any chemicals or how to reduce or remove them should there be any chance of them being present, so chemical treatment is a bit counter-productive from my point of view, and options like iodine are not an option for pregnant women or those with any type of a thyroid issue. Iodine and chlorine (i.e. bleach) on their own, are not effective against cryptosporidium. However, this method is lightweight and over the years has been popular with ultralight backpackers, though decreasing in recent years with the increased availability of very light hollow fiber filters like the Sawyer Mini. In this category, other devices have seen the market over the years that create a solution with salt to create an oxidant solution that you subsequently dissolve in water; but as with other chemical treatments, with a 4 hour wait time these are not the quickest of options. An example can be found in the discontinued MSR MIOX. These devices seem to come and go from the market. Chemical treatment may also be integrated with some filters to move them into the purifier category. As with boiling, chemical treatment can be a good backup to bring as well or to utilize in conjunction with other methods. Hundreds of miles from the source, I took extra steps in my treatment process at this backcountry location. Boiling Boiling water is an excellent way to neutralize microorganisms that might be present, but it takes a while, requires a lot of fuel, and let’s be honest, on a hot summer day, who wants to drink steaming hot water when we could be drinking that crisp and cold water from a mountain stream? As such, boiling can be tough to utilize as a main water treatment method on most 3 season backpacking trips, but it’s an excellent method to keep in mind as a backup method should your filter or other method fail you. In winter however, melting snow for water may be your best and only option. Be sure to bring a big pot (my Evernew 1.3 works well solo) and a stove that will work well during continued usage in cold conditions like the MSR WindPro II – read our WindPro II review here. Opinions on how long to boil water vary widely; the CDC suggests bringing water to a rolling boil for 1 minute, or for 3 full minutes at altitudes above 6562 feet (be sure to check that 2 on the end of your altimeter!). Data suggests however that pathogens are neutralized at lower temperatures; in the end it depends on heat and time but luckily, both are achieved by bringing your water to a boil and after removal from heat. Carbon Filtration As we’ve seen, the technologies used above are all mainly designed to thwart microorganisms. If improving the taste and smell of your water, or if any agricultural and / or industrial contamination is a concern, look for a system that integrates filtration technology combined with a carbon stage that will improve and / or reduce, but not necessarily eliminate, these concerns. If desired, a carbon element can be integrated into an existing system using a modular approach to filter water further. This will increase the weight of your system, and possibly the cost of replacement elements, etc., but there is of course no free lunch. The Grayl UltraPress and Katadyn Hiker Pro are all examples of filters with integrated carbon filtration – or if you’re like me and have settled on a treatment method that does not address this concern, but you may occasionally head out on a trip where some of these concerns would be nice to cover, you can always splice in an add-on carbon element (I use an add on GravityWorks Carbon Element) for this purpose when needed. My Approach For a complicated issue, there are unfortunately no one size fits all solutions and in the end, when we’re concerned about not carrying extra weight, it all comes down to a compromise and what each one of us is most interested in removing from our water. Luckily there are many lightweight and effective options out there to choose from. For general backpacking we should expect to find an option that will treat what we’re concerned with for around a pound or less. About half a pound is usually doable, and lighter options of just a few ounces are very realistic to target. The best backpacking water filter or water treatment method very much depends on the task at hand. Most of my trips are very well served by standard hollow fiber filtration technology; as with all of us most likely, my preference is to backpack into areas where the water is already fairly good. As such I’m not usually concerned about viruses or pollution, (both a Steripen and carbon filter have a spot in the gear room for such destinations to use in conjunction with a hollow fiber filter), and I like to target the removal of bacteria, protozoa, and the removal of larger critters no matter their parasitical intent or lack thereof. The hollow fiber filter also has that added benefit of giving your water a good scrub; removing particulate matter. I really like a filter that has a manufacturer supported integrity test as well, so it essentially comes down to the cartridge for me. The Platypus GravityWorks cartridge fits all of the above criteria, and it just so happens the whole setup it comes with works well and is pretty darn convenient to use both on the trail as well as in camp. For a complete list of backcountry-ready, tried and tested backpacking water filters and treatment methods that you can sort and filter by all the main points we’ve discussed in this post, check out this page at REI.

If there is an enduring archetype about the American West, it is the cowboy on his faithful horse riding through the wilderness and into the sunset. This archetype was formed by numerous books, songs and John Ford westerns and has passed into the collective American cultural mythos. Unfortunately, this romantic view of the old West sometimes clashes with reality. In the modern American West, these wilderness lands are bisected by private property, roads, different land agencies, and jurisdictions. Riding through these lands poses a challenge for those on a long journey. Is it still possible to capture the sense of romanticism and adventure on such a journey in modern times? The Unbranded Documentary The new documentary Unbranded has a simple answer: Yes. With some planning and a little help, it is still possible to capture this spirit of the mythologized American West even in modern society. Unbranded is tale of four recent college graduates who set out to ride from the Mexico border in Arizona to the Canadian border by Glacier National Park. These four men, along with sixteen horses and one donkey, cover nearly 3000 miles through deserts and mountains, old mining roads, single track trails, and what looked to be some cross country travel. A route was put together that encompasses parts of both the Arizona Trail and the Continental Divide Trail along with other wilderness areas. Uniquely, the journey was done with another archetype of the American West: wild horses. Commonly known as mustangs. As of 2010, 33,700 horses and 4,700 burros is the current feral population in the United States with another 34,000 in BLM holding pens. Wild horses The three-thousand mile long journey and the resulting documentary was done in part to show the plight of these animals. The politics of the debate on how best to handle the growing numbers of feral horses is discussed. Are the horses stripping the land bare? Are there enough resources to sustain the horses? Should there be more protection? Is it ethical to hold that many animals in holding pens? A wide variety of people and opinions are portrayed. Ranchers state their case, wildlife activists give their thoughts and biologists state the facts. All in what I felt was an even handed and fair manner. The interesting facts, discussions and issues are interspersed within the documentary of the journey itself. And the journey itself was fascinating. Wonderful cinematography and a unique tale. There are plenty of documentaries about end to end hikes on well-known National Scenic Trails, but so few about following a self-made route. And even fewer about performing the journey on horseback. The challenges are many for the journey: The maps often had trails that don’t exist anymore, climbs were performed on old mining roads that were arduous and more akin to scrambling than riding/hiking, and the health of the horses was always a constant concern. There were moments of sadness leavened by moments of silliness. The kindness of the communities and the people within them experienced by the horseback riders was amazing. And, perhaps rather appropriate for a documentary about a long journey on horseback, many thoughtful discussions were had around campfires. In Conclusion As a person who has hiked some of the long trails, two scenes and the discussion engendered by the incidents resonated with me. Namely, when there was a question of breaking the continuity of the journey due to a time delay when attempting to find a missing horse. And, when at the end of the journey, one member of the group performed a symbolic act that may have ruined the continuity of the journey but was important to him. These incidents are essentially the debate over the “purity” of a journey with unbroken footsteps being important versus the experience of the journey itself that may or may not matter more. At just under two hours in length, Unbranded is well worth watching. Unbranded is not just for people who love horses or even long journeys. It is a documentary for anyone who loves the wild spaces and spends time in them. Where to watch: Unbranded is available for both DVD and digital purchase here at Amazon.com. Editor's Note: This article by contributor Paul Magnanti originally appeared in Issue 26 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

Living in New Jersey, I’ve hiked all over my state: from the northwest region of the Water Gap, to the New Jersey Highlands (and their frequent view of New York City), to the majesty of the Pine Barrens in the south. I have made infrequent forays into the bordering states of Pennsylvania and New York, hiking a trail or two in both Harriman and Bear Mountain State parks. This past Fall, looking for something a little higher, different scenery, and a little bigger, I decided to explore both Harriman and Bear Mountain parks. It helps that both parks border each other, with some trails meandering into both parks. Harriman State Park, found in Rockland and Orange counties in New York, borders Bear Mountain State Park, on the western side of the Hudson River. Both parks are a short jaunt from New York City, but are large enough to isolate yourself from the hustle and bustle of modern society. I usually do not lose cell service, but there are times where I have seen the signal get pretty weak. Visitors crowd some trails and you will be able to count your trail-mates on one hand in other areas. Both parks are open year-round, and there are plenty of shelters should you want to camp. (The parks also include beaches, picnic areas, and boat ramps. You even have the ability to drive up Bear Mountain to the observation tower.) I spent last fall making many day trips to hike all around the two parks, and I’ll describe some of my favorites. Bear Mountain State Park The first hike to describe is Bear Mountain itself. Park in the main parking lot for the Bear Mountain Inn (a note that there is a fee.) For this loop, take the Hessian Lake Loop (to the left of Hessian Lake) until it junctions with the Major Welch Trail. This trail goes right up the face of Bear Mountain where there are some great little rock scrambles. (Pro tip: don’t do this on a 90-degree day with humidity.) At the top you will find the observation tower which is easily climbable and offers spectacular views in all directions. When you’re finished climbing the tower, make your way beyond the parking lot to the rocks for a place to have lunch. Crowds abound here, as many people have driven up to this spot. To descend, look for the Appalachian Trail and head down. The AT is well-worn and there are many sections of stone steps. The AT winds its way down the mountain and will deposit you back to the Bear Mountain Inn and your car. Of note, before the lake is a large display describing how the New York New Jersey Trail Conference builds and maintains trails. This is a must see. (3.6 miles) My favorite hike in Bear Mountain State Park starts from a hiker parking lot on 9W before access to Iona Island. From the lot, cross the road, and by the bridge start following the blue blazed Cornell Mine Trail. There are lots of mines in both Bear Mountain and Harriman parks; some are more easily found than others. The Cornell Mine trail is relatively flat until it climbs up the face of Bald Mountain using a few switchbacks. At the top, you will junction with the Ramapo-Dunderber Trail at a huge cairn. Turn right and head to the top of Bald Mountain. (To the right of this junction is the Cornell Mine, it takes some bushwhacking to find.) When the Ramapo-Dunderberg makes a hairpin turn, take a small spur trail to the rocks at the top of Bald Mountain. There, you will have great views of Bear Mountain, West Mountain, and the Timp. Continue on the Rampapo-Dunderberg until the intersection with the 1777 Trail. If you would like, continue on the RD to climb the Timp – it’s not far, and there is not too much elevation gain. There is a large rock outcropping that has views onto West Mountain. Follow the RD back to the 1777 Trail and make a left. You will lose all your elevation on this wide trail that becomes a paved road. But, you will enter historic Doodletown, which thrived in the early 1900s. You can spend a lot of time in Doodletown – the 1777 Trail, though, will make its way back to the Cornell Mine trail and where you parked your car. Two mountains, some mines, and a historic abandoned town? There’s a lot to see here. (6.73 miles) Harriman State Park In southern Harriman state park, one of my favorite hikes is the Pine Meadow Loop. Note that this area is one of the most popular areas in southern Harriman and parking can get very crowded. Arrive super early to ensure you find a spot. You can find parking on Seven Lakes Drive around the Reeves Meadow Visitor Center. Take the Pine Meadow (red) Trail all the way up to the lake. The lake alone is worth the hike, and makes a great spot to picnic. I like this hike for the history and hike all the way around the lake. Follow the trail clockwise, passing many viewpoints of the lake and historical markers. At the eastern end of the lake, the Pine Meadow Trail veers left and you will want to jump on the Conklin’s Crossing Trail (white.) You will only be on this trail for a few minutes, as you will look for an unmarked trail to the right. This goes around the lake and meanders through an old Civilian Conservation Corps Camp. The trail joins up with the Pine Meadow Road and finishes circling the lake. Take the Pine Meadow Trail back to the visitor center. If you decide to take the Kakiat Trail (white) as an alternate, know that the bridge is out where it crosses Stony Brook. (8.24 miles) A final hike starts from the parking lot on Kanawauke Road – take 17 north to the junction of 17A, make a right, and the parking lot is on the right after you pass Lake Stahahe. From the parking lot, head south on the White Bar trail around Car Pond Mountain. When you come to the junction of the Triangle Trail (yellow) make a left and take this all the way up Parker Cabin Mountain. Gorgeous views from the east greet you at the top. Make a left on the Ramapo-Dunderberg trail and head north to Tom Jones Mountain. At the top you will find the Tom Jones Shelter. Follow the RD trail north, down the mountain to the road. Cross Kanawauke Road and follow the trail uphill, steeply at times. At the top of the steep climb you will get to Black Rock (amazing views) and the junction with the Nurian Trail (white.) If you have had enough for the day, you can take this back to the lot. Or, you can continue on the RD to the junction with the Denning Trail (yellow,) crossing the highest point in Harriman State Park. You will pass the Bold Rocks shelter along the way. Make a left at the Dunning and take this to the White Bar trail, and follow this down to your car; ensuring you stay left at the junction with the Nurian Trail. (7.07 miles) A couple of notes: I highly recommend the NY NJ Trail Conference map set for this park. The maps have all the trails, shelters, parking lots, topography, unmarked trails, roads, and more. The maps from the parks themselves are good, but there is so much more on the Conference maps. Link here – I’m not a member, but these maps are invaluable. And, they are great for planning your route from the parking lots. Need to Know Information Harriman State Park is found in Rockland and Orange counties in New York, with Bear Mountain State Park bordering it on the east. Bear Mountain State Park rises from the banks of the Hudson River and besides hiking, includes an inn, a Merry-Go-Round, the Trailside Zoo and an ice rink. The Perkins fire tower is reachable by car (and trail) atop Bear Mountain; by car following Perkins Memorial Drive. There are many many miles of trails in both parks, with many trails crossing the park borders. Both parks include swimming areas (when open,) group campsites, and shelters for hikers. The Appalachian Trail winds its way through both parks. Permits are required for some group campsites, fees are required for day use areas. There is a $10 fee to park in the Bear Mountain Inn lot (which is huge), though there are plenty of lots and trails that leave from parking lots scattered around both parks. Both parks are open year-round; which affords some great winter hiking – though, bear (excuse the pun) in mind, some roads that cut through Harriman State Park are closed during the winter. Check the websites: Harriman & Bear Mountain. Best Time to Go Both parks are open year round. Some non-bridged stream crossings can be more challenging in the Spring with increased water levels from snowmelt and rain. Fall is probably the most popular due to the colors of the Fall foliage. You will see people in the winter. Super Important Note: The Reeves Meadow Visitor Center (which has a small lot) gets insanely packed. There is a pull-out lot across the street, but if you get to that lot late (8 am?) cars will be parked all along Seven Lakes Drive. This is a VERY popular trailhead. Getting There The main parking lot for Bear Mountain is at the Bear Mountain Inn (and costs $10.) That lot is huge. There are free lots scattered along 9W, 202, and Seven Lakes Drive. Parking in Harriman can be found at the day-use sites (which may have fees) and along Route 6, Seven Lakes Drive, Arden Valley Road, Kanawauke Road and Johnsontown Road. A Harriman parking area map can be found here. Maps and Books Both park sites have maps you can print. I cannot recommend enough the maps produced by the NY NJ Trail Conference. These maps have it all, trails, contour lines, roads, parking, unmarked trails, and forest roads. I find them invaluable. Harriman Trails is an excellent book describing the trails, unmarked trails, roads, lakes, mines, and history of both parks. While not necessarily a route-planning tool, the book will give great color to where ever you plan to go in the parks. Finally, if you plan to explore the abandoned town of Doodletown, I highly recommend the book: Doodletown: Hiking through history in a vanished hamlet on the Hudson. The author was one of the last residents to leave the town.

Fill Power is a grading system for goose / duck down. Often abbreviated as FP. Higher fill power will add more loft and warmth to an outdoor garment or sleeping bag at the same given amount of weight. Measured using a cubic inch per oz system. 500 fill power down will fill 500 cubic inches of space per ounce used. 900 will fill 900 cubic inches of space per ounce. A high fill power down cluster. What Fill Power is Best? It all depends on the application. For use off the trail (in town, at home) just about any fill power will do, as weight of the garment or sleeping bag is not a concern. This would be a good time to save the cash over a higher fill power option. For the trail however where every ounce counts, a higher fill power jacket like the REI Co-op Magma 850 will save weight; going with the highest fill power you can get that is still in the budget will get you gear that weighs less but could contain the same loft (and warmth) as a heavier lower fill power down option. To sum things up, in a higher fill product the same amount of garment / bag warmth can be achieved for less weight. Higher fill power is considerably more expensive than lower level down. For more on backpacking insulation, see our article Backpacking Gear: Down vs. Synthetic Insulation. For more information on jackets, see our article on 3-season backpacking clothing, and for sleeping bags, check out our guide on How the Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag. Editor's Note: This Jargon installment originally appeared in Issue 2 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can find the original article here.

In 1943 and after years of fruitless political wrangling, President Franklin D. Roosevelt finally used his unilateral authority under the Antiquities Act to establish Jackson Hole National Monument. The state challenged the monument declaration in court. Ranchers drove cattle across the Monument in direct defiance of Federal authority. On one side, there were accusations about rich outsiders interfering in local matters. On the other side, conservationists launched a campaign to convince the public that the ecological and historical significance of the area should be forever preserved. In 1950, all sides reached an uneasy compromise. The new National Monument, encompassing much of western Wyoming’s famed Jackson Hole, would be incorporated into the existing (but previously much smaller) Grand Teton National Park. In exchange, Congress would amend the Antiquities Act to curtail the President’s ability to designate future National Monuments in the state of Wyoming. Nearly seventy years later, a similar drama played out in southeastern Utah. After years of fruitless political wrangling, outgoing president Barack Obama established the 1.3 million-acre Bears Ears National Monument at the request of five local tribes who consider the area sacred. The ultimate outcome for Bears Ears still remains to be seen. Continued partisan squabbling continues to rule the day. But let’s shift our focus. Politics and 115-year-old acts of Congress aside, let’s instead put the focus where it rightfully belongs – on the land itself. Let’s journey, as I do several times a year, to Bears Ears. Backpacking in Bears Ears On a chilly November’s day, we begin our hike on the expansive, flat-topped Cedar Mesa. Bears Ears is a place of huge views from horizon to horizon. It’s wild land on a large scale. The Monument’s borders don’t just include the famous Bears Ears buttes themselves, but a huge swath of landscape. We wander along a disused jeep road for a few miles, marveling at the cryptobiotic soil crust that’s started to make a comeback now that vehicles no longer roam here. We enjoy the rising sun illuminating the distant Mancos Mesa and the tips of the Bears Ears. Soon enough, the old jeep road ends and we join one of the few maintained trails in the monument. Like most enduring projects, it was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 30s. Young, underemployed men moved an inordinate amount of rock, scratching and blasting their way down into the canyon. Notwithstanding their efforts, the trail is still rugged and unmarked, but it’s infinitely easier than most approaches into this sprawling 70-mile canyon system. As we descend, our large-scale world is replaced by an intimate one. Below the rim, hidden alcoves and brush-choked side canyons replace the huge views. Our minds drift back 700 years in time as we wander up-canyon in search of a campsite. The canyon is beautiful to be sure, but tough to eke out an existence in. Small pools and potholes are only as dependable as the recent rains. Algae often fouls the few perennial springs around here. Even modest agriculture seems unfathomable. Yet, people lived here for centuries. It’s hard to go more than a mile or two in this great sprawling canyon without seeing evidence of Ancestral Puebloan presence. Enigmatic images (some notable and bold, others faint and hidden) are painted or etched onto smooth rock walls. Sooty cook fires, extinguished for more than seven centuries now, still stain the undersides of great sandstone alcoves. Granaries dot nearly-inaccessible ledges. Intrepid travelers can even spot a housing complex or ceremonial kivas – all from a respectful distance, of course. Nowadays, the gulch is a place of natural wonder and wildness. But it doesn’t take a particularly active historical imagination to see this canyon bustling with the goings-on of any society – agriculture, familial squabbles, religious contemplation, celebration of holidays and life landmarks, and even warfare from time to time. For many years, it was believed that the ancients mysteriously disappeared around 1300 AD. But more up-to-date scholarship, congruent with the testimony of many oral traditions, suggests that the people didn’t disappear at all. They simply moved south and east, perhaps in search of a more hospitable climate. Human habitation in the Bears Ears region has always teetered on the edge of the abyss in one form of another. The ancients experienced numerous cycles of flourishing and collapse over the period of a few thousand years. In more recent times, resource utilization and extraction (causing additional controversy), be it grazing land or uranium/petroleum deposits, has continued the boom-and-bust cycle for many towns in the area. As the local climate continues to get warmer and drier, will drought once again cause the stagnation or even recession of civilization in this part of the world? Such ruminations abruptly cease as the sun makes its departure behind the canyon rim. Even the dim and meager sunshine, shining low in the southern sky at this time of year, cast a feeble warmth over the landscape while it was up. As soon as it’s gone though, the temperature plummets. It’s time to eat and go to bed. Dinner is a simple affair, cooked and eaten quickly as the cold settles in. I can only get through a couple chapters of a truly terrible paperback before bundling into bed. As usual, the sky is clear and the stars are bright. They’re conditions that would make any astronomer envious, but the only observatory around here is my downy sleeping bag, flopped out under a starry tapestry. Not all is idyllic of course. The same harsh climate that the ancients contended with roars to life, driving strong winds down the canyon and stinging us with sand. The romanticism of a cowboy camp on a dark night has only yielded me watery eyes and more than a little grit in my teeth. We’re warm enough overnight, but barely. The wind has a certain bite at this time of year. But just two months earlier, it was scorching hot. It’s hard to win in a land of extremes. Even now, locals contend with drought. A hundred head of cattle choke down meager vegetation and congregate around a handful of ramshackle-looking but meticulously-maintained waterworks. It still isn’t easy to scratch together a living in these parts. It’s little wonder that certain ranchers oppose any additional regulations, even though the Monument text preserves existing grazing leases. We pack up quickly the next morning, skipping breakfast, and climb back up the way we came. On the mesa top, juniper trees pock the landscape. Far fewer Ancestral Puebloan sites are preserved up here, owing to the harsh climate. But some sites do remain, many of them fortifications designed to repel enemy attacks. In modern times, local tribes use the mesa tops for gathering firewood and foraging for other traditional plants. The native legacy of Bears Ears is not limited to the past; it continues right up to the present day. It’s no wonder that the tribes were the earliest, loudest, and most consistent voice calling for the protection of this vital area. Reflecting on a Hike in Bears Ears Back at the car, we reflect on the trip. It was a short one. But Bears Ears isn’t a place to crush miles. Bears Ears lends itself to wandering and quiet contemplation. It reveals its secrets not to the thru-hiker, but to the wanderer. It demands respect for both the ancient and modern inhabitants of this land. Explore the alcove tucked away in that dead-end canyon. Squint at the sandstone panel, and you might be able to make out a series of painted-on handprints. Observe the granaries and ruins from a respectful distance. Follow Leave No Trace principles assiduously. Revel in a place that’s wild, yes, but with a long and storied human history. Bears Ears is a marvel, if only you know where to look. Need to Know Information Bears Ears National Monument protects a large swath of southeastern Utah. The monument lies south and east of the existing Canyonlands National Park. Unlike some other National Monuments, it doesn’t protect a particular terrain feature or archaeological site, but a large area of wild landscapes and dispersed sites. The monument was created partly in response to over a century of looting and vandalism at irreplaceable cultural and historic sites. Please visit with respect and Leave No Trace. Best Time to Go Summers can be very hot in Bears Ears, even at higher elevations, while winters often bring snow and ice. Spring and fall are typically great times to visit. Getting There The town of Moab is served by an airport with regularly-scheduled flights, mostly puddle-jumpers to Denver or Salt Lake City. As of 2022, Moab, Monticello, and Blanding are also served by daily bus service. Though, most trailheads in Bears Ears are located well off the beaten path and only accessible by private vehicle. The Edge of the Cedars State Park & Museum in Blanding makes an excellent introduction to the area and is a fascinating way to spend an afternoon. Those wishing to explore the famous Cedar Mesa should stop by the Kane Gulch Ranger Station (staffed seasonally) to pick up a required dayhiking or overnight permit and learn about best practices for visiting ruins and cultural sites. Books and Maps Bears Ears is a rather new monument that’s been embroiled by shifting borders and political controversy from its inception. As such, not many resources are yet available. One solid, if modest, guidebook is Exploring Utah’s Bears Ears and Cedar Mesa, available from Falcon Guides. The book focuses mainly on day trips, but includes a few backpacks as well, and plenty of inspiration for creating one’s own, longer adventures. The book also places great emphasis on visiting the Monument with respect. Trails Illustrated Map # 706 covers most of the monument. For a big picture view and for getting to and from the trailhead, see the Delorme Utah Atlas & Gazetteer. This story by Kevin DeVries, photos by Justin Swanson. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 53 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

Hi Rob and welcome. What type of production quality are you looking for? Most would use a smartphone if you have one. For a higher production quality than that, and they are often pretty good, you’d be looking at some more expensive professional or higher end camera gear.

Hey everyone I am Rob from IL. I am new to hiking trails and have a trip planned in late August to Acadia National Park. We are going to hike the beehive trail and I was wanting to record it. What is the cheapest but good quality camera to record with? Can anyone give me some advice. I am looking between 50-80 dollars if that is even possible.

Unique among the seasons, winter wields the power to make many hiking destinations inaccessible. Roads are gated due to snow, mountain passes become snowbound and hazardous, and specific four-season gear is required in many regions for those venturing out in the winter months. Human-powered recreation is mostly left to snowshoers, skiers, snowboarders, and winter is also a good time to focus on cleaning gear, summer trip planning, fitness routines, racking up vacation time, and other hobbies. Getting away to a warmer locale for a few days or a week also doesn’t hurt if you’re able to accommodate the expense of time and money. In winter, places inherently seem to become more remote. The Wilderness of Winter Winter also has the singular ability to bring a feeling of wilderness and raw nature to places that feel mundane, even boring, in other seasons. Many of the bumpy and potholed forest roads flanked by endless lodgepole pines that are merely tolerated on drives to the trailhead in the summer become the proverbial “winter wonderland” with the addition of a few feet of snow. Putting on the cross-country skis and heading up one of these roads for a few miles to a scenic overlook that merited only a glance out the window before driving further a few months before becomes an expedition to a breathtaking picnic spot. A cabin that you could drive to in June is transformed into a rustic outpost where you can sit in quintessential tranquility and watch snow fall while a woodstove heats the tiny structure. Favorite trails suddenly take on an Arctic charm that highlights the rock and water features, especially when the water turns to ice. Animal tracks left in the snow can be examined with a clarity rarely provided in typical dirt patches on the trail. The play of light and reflections of the sun off the snow make for near-mystical conditions. If you have the gear and experience to safely and comfortably do overnight trips in the winter months, the stargazing is incredible. The skies are can be exceedingly clear and the stars come out much earlier compared to the summer months. As long as you have the gear to stay comfortable in periods of inactivity in cold conditions, you can fit in some amazing stargazing between dinner and a reasonable bedtime. If you’re staying in a cabin or other structure, such as a lookout, you can head back inside to warm up, make some tea or hot chocolate, and head back out with your beverage in an insulated water bottle if you've brought one along. The sky will be darker, the stars shining brighter, and you’ll be warmer. This back-and-forth can go on as long as your eyes stay open and the rewards always seem to be worth pushing through the sleepiness. If you’re lucky enough to live in a region with natural hot springs, visiting these in the winter can be a luxury almost impossible to describe. Sitting in jacuzzi-warm water, rich with minerals, and watching a frigid river run beneath snow-draped trees is a surefire way to put a smile on your face. The juxtaposition between the harsh and benevolent characteristics of nature are visibly, and physically, apparent. Hot springs that would be crowded in the shoulder-season months due to their proximity roads and parking areas become much less visited. An easy stroll in the summer suddenly becomes a 1/4 mile epic in winter, requiring snowshoes and proper clothing to be comfortable in frigid temperatures until you’re able to immerse yourself in the water. As expected, however, the reward feels much richer and well-deserved. For hikers who live in a region absent of the geothermal phenomenons that are required for hot springs but with sustained subfreezing temperatures, winter often presents the opportunity to see frozen waterfalls. Visiting a gushing waterfall in May and then returning in January to see it frozen from top to bottom provides a sublime comparison. In regions with dense ridgetop deciduous forests, such as many Eastern forests, the views in winter are much grander than in summer. Trails that have the “green tunnel” effect suddenly become much more open and the shadows and shapes created by the bare tree limbs become a spectacle in and of themselves. Certain “life list” destinations are at their most hospitable and enjoyable in the winter months. Big Bend National Park, Everglades National Park and Dry Tortugas National Park come to mind in this regards. Backpacking on Cumberland Island National Seashore in December is a particular treat – the crowds are low, the weather is mild, and the citrus trees are ripe. There’s something beautiful about getting to a campsite, setting down the pack, and picking an orange or grapefruit to enjoy with your oatmeal the next morning. Final Thoughts While the coming of spring is an occasion for celebration, especially for those of us who reside in the northerly latitudes, winter has its merits. It offers a chance for skills to be honed, inimitable adventures to be had – such as moonlit cross-country skiing, familiar places to be experienced in a different atmosphere. If you weren’t able to appreciate the opportunities for solitude this past season, you’ll have a summer full of hiking to look forward to and plenty of time to plan for when the snow flies again. For a detailed article on the "how to" of experiencing the outdoors in winter with many tips along the way, check out this Issue 26 article courtesy of @PaulMags.

Dishes that are a bit lighter tasting can be desirable at many times of the year and especially in warmer weather. The palette does not crave cream, cheese, and the other heavy foods associated with winter. Instead, a touch of citrus might be wanted. A bit of mint on the tongue. And perhaps something a bit tart and a little sweet to balance the flavors out? This recipe is a unique (and fresh!) take on couscous, and the brightness of the meal goes well with spring and summer seasons. This simple, but tasty and filling, couscous meal just may be the perfect dish for those July backpacking trips near an alpine lake. Where blowing snow is a distant memory but a field of wildflowers is very much present. A little bit of summer in every bite. This dish will serve one hungry hiker or two less-than-ravenous trekkers. Ingredients 1 cup couscous 2 tablespoons olive oil or equivalent packable olive oil packets ½ cup pine nuts or walnuts ½ cup dried cranberries 1 tablespoon dried mint (out for an easy overnighter? Substitute ¼ cup chopped fresh mint) 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons lemon pepper; 3 teaspoons if you prefer a little more bite Carnivore? One seven ounce pouch of chicken. Veggie delight? One 15 ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans) for a short trip OR 3 tablespoons instant hummus mix for a longer trip. Optional: dash or two of red pepper flakes for a little zest. Olive oil can be carried in a variety of containers or via packets. At Home Add couscous to resealable bag Pour olive oil into leak proof bottle. I use a 12 oz. sports drink bottle myself or use olive oil packets. Add nuts, cranberries, mint, salt, lemon pepper, and optional red pepper flakes to resealable bag. Mix. Add chicken pouch to food bag when packing. If using canned beans, add to a resealable bag, then double bag & tape closed for the most security. If using hummus mix, place in resealable plastic bag. Ingredients, including repackaged olive oil. In Camp Add two cups water to cook pot, bring to low boil. Add olive oil and stir. Add bag contents with nuts, cranberries, spice, & herbs to pot. Simmer until cranberries are plump (5-10 minutes). Add chicken, beans, or hummus mix. Dried hummus will need more water and/or olive oil. Mix once added. Simmer over very low heat for 3-5 minutes while mixing on occasion. Eat a delectable meal! You can find more food-related and recipe articles here on the TrailGroove Blog. Editor's Note: This article by contributor Paul Magnanti originally appeared in Issue 23 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.