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For some reason gaiters were one of the “accessory” pieces of backpacking gear that I delayed purchasing far longer than I should have. Trekking poles likely would have fallen into the same category, but fortunately for my knees I received a pair as a gift early in my backpacking days. It was only after I moved to Montana and began adapting my backpacking to a different landscape – the Northern Rockies is quite different from the Southern Appalachians – that I bought my first pair of gaiters. There may be no single best hiking gaiter – as since then, I’ve acquired three pairs of gaiters, all suited for different purposes, and it has been a rare backpacking trip where I don’t start out wearing a pair or have them stashed in my pack.

Keeping debris out of your shoes, dew-soaked vegetation from saturating your pants, or helping rainpants better do their job in a deluge – most gaiters excel at all these tasks. For specific conditions or activities, like with all backpacking gear, there are certain types of gaiters that will be better suited than others. While you could wear the same gaiters snowshoeing as you do on a summer trail run, you’d definitely be better off using ones designed with the distinct requirements of those activities in mind.
The All-around Backpacking and Hiking Gaiter
For all-around backpacking use, the Rocky Mountain Series (which comes in high and low versions) by Outdoor Research are hard to beat in regards to price and efficiency. These water-resistant gaiters (the lower half is coated to assist with this, while the upper is uncoated to assist with breathability) are ideal for most three-season backpacking and have proved as effective at keeping out lingering snow when postholing in Montana’s Welcome Creek Wilderness as they have been at saving pantlegs from being shredded by unruly vegetation when bushwhacking in Washington’s Glacier Peak Wilderness. When paired with rainpants, they’ve been a saving grace during daylong rains in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness in Idaho and allowed boots and socks the luxury of only being wet at the end of the day and not soaked.

While these gaiters are nothing short of excellent in most circumstances, I did have some durability issues with my first pair. The stitching on the Velcro on one pair blew out after two hiking seasons of moderate use and the Velcro closure tab at the hook at the bottom of the gaiter began to separate as well. Outdoor Research replaced them at no cost and provided great customer service during the process. Granted, I had put them through some pretty serious off-trail hikes during the two seasons, but by the standards I have for other Outdoor Research gear (and backpacking gear in general) they fell a bit short in the durability department. It is worth noting that the fabric of the gaiters was still in good repair and the foot straps still had a lot of life left in them as well. Hopefully this was just a fluke with the pair I received and not a common weak spot in the product.
Gaiters for Deep Snow
Once the snow piles up and I switch from hiking to cross-country skiing and snowshoeing to access the backcountry, I also switch my gaiters. Although I’ve used the OR Rocky Mountain High gaiters with minimal issues in dry, powdery snow, my go-to winter gaiters are made by Atlas Snow Shoe Company and feature a waterproof lower, waterproof-breathable upper (Marmot Membrain in the pair that I have), and microfleece lining for warmth on the upper section. I’ve found these gaiters to be a nearly perfect piece of equipment for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, as well as hiking, in all types of winter conditions. The durability has been excellent, even when getting scraped by snowshoe edges when treading my way through dense lodgepole stands. I’ve never seen these gaiters wet-out even when in some very slushy snow conditions and the fleece adds a nice touch of insulation without seeming to contribute to cause too much head to build up when engaged in strenuous cross-country skiing.
My only complaint with these gaiters is that they've been discontinued. However, hopefully this provides some example of what you're looking for in a deep snow winter type of gaiter. While the upper breathable section is nice, other options currently available include high gaiters like the REI Co-op Traverse gaiters (you can find our review of the low version of a similar gaiter here in Issue 45). To sum it up, you're looking for a heavier-duty gaiter here, one that adds warmth, and will keep the snow and wet out when combined with appropriate footwear and clothing.

When conditions warm up, a breathable gaiter will be the best choice.
Lightweight and Summer Gaiters
When the conditions – both trail and weather – are on the milder side, I have a pair of the discontinued REI Co-op Activator gaiters that provide just the right amount of protection whereas a high waterproof gaiter would be overkill. These gaiters pair perfectly with trail runners and excel at keeping out the irritating sand, tiny rocks, and debris that can be hard to ignore but frustrating to have to stop and remove. I’ve used these for hiking as well as trail running and have found them to be adequate but not excellent at their ability to stay in place when properly adjusted.
Oddly, these have to be fitted onto the shoe and the foot inserted through the gaiter and then into the shoe (at least that’s the only way I’ve found to do it, but then again I could just be making things more difficult than they need to be, which wouldn’t exactly be a surprise), but this does allow for the coverage and positioning of the gaiters to be dialed in. Although the Activators are no longer made, what you're looking for here is a low, breathable gaiter. A modern-day example can be found in the REI Co-op Flash gaiter.
During something like a trail run around a low-elevation lake in Montana, with some early season snow patches to run through, these types of gaiters will do a good job of keeping the snow out and don't seem to wet out even with extended sections of melting snow to contend with. Unsurprisingly, a non-waterproof gaiter will be the most breathable and will be the gaiters most appropriate for those who hike mostly on open trails in areas without an abundance of precipitation.
While not having gaiters wouldn’t exactly ruin a trip in the same way that forgetting the stove or not bringing a warm enough sleeping bag would, they most certainly improve the comfort level measurably. And fortunately, there are a plethora of gaiters for distinct conditions and activities.

A waterproof breathable mid-height gaiter is a good all-around choice for colder weather hiking.
Final Thoughts
The gaiters reviewed here represent a good sampling or the most common types and can hopefully guide you towards the type that you would want to purchase for the activities and conditions you most frequently engage in. The Rocky Mountain high and low series of gaiters from Outdoor Research run around the $50 mark here at REI, and the REI Co-op Traverse gaiters go for around the same price (view at REI). REI’s Flash gaiters can be found here. However, there are many other options available no matter your preference for high or low, waterproof or not. You can view a wide selection of hiking and backpacking gaiters here at REI.com.

Both a prerequisite for the enjoyment of any day hike and critical for the success of any extended backpacking trip, our choice of a hiking shoe or boot is one of the most important gear related choices to make and dial in prior to any outdoor excursion. Not only does the best hiking boot or shoe depend on fit and our own individual preference, but the best options will also vary widely by season – although many options can also be workable across more than one season, or even with a few caveats year round.

A selection of lightweight, breathable trail running shoes. Most hiking shoes should last you at least 500+ miles, more for hiking boots.
Footwear for Early Spring and Late Fall
Characterized by cool to temperate weather conditions with moisture being frequently encountered from many angles including precipitation, light snow, river crossings, and just overall soggy or muddy conditions (i.e. “mudseason”), feet will likely stay pretty warm on their own – as long as they’re dry. Thus a waterproof / breathable option (Gore-Tex, eVent, proprietary membrane) can be very suitable for these conditions and shoes with these technologies are offered in a wide array of styles.
Water resistant trail running shoes, like the Altra Lone Peak waterproof line can be one way to go if you prefer a trail running shoe, or for conditions where you’ll be moving fast (including trail running) and only light moisture may be encountered. Alternatively another option to take a look at would be the Salomon X Ultra line (view at REI), which is offered in low and mid-height versions using Gore-Tex (also offered in non-waterproof versions for milder weather).

Many of the best hiking boots will feature a Gore-Tex waterproof breathable lining.
Slick conditions will frequently be encountered, and snowy conditions are par for the course in mountainous areas from remaining winter snow in the spring and new snow as winter approaches in the fall. Thus a little ankle support from a mid-height boot can offer some reassurance...which will also help further to keep snow and mud out. And admittedly on any soggy backpacking trip with a waterproof / breathable shoe, it’s always nice to hike through the mud all day and still have clean feet at the end of the day when it’s time to crawl in the sleeping bag.
Some hikers who, like myself, prefer to hike in trail runners whenever possible do have success pushing trail runners into these seasons and cool to cold, wet conditions by adding waterproof breathable socks, and while this technique has worked for me in the past, at some point I simply find it more comfortable to bite the bullet and wear hiking boots of the waterproof variety when I head out in these conditions.
Summer Hiking / Backpacking Shoes
With hot and mostly dry hiking, except perhaps for the occasional water crossing or summer rainstorm, summer is ruled by footwear of the non-waterproof and very breathable variety. Trail running shoes vs. boots is up to you and your preference for mobility and light weight vs. ankle support and protection, as well as pack weight, but in these conditions a breathable shoe will keep your feet more comfortable throughout the day, increase comfort and reduce the likelihood of blisters and hotspots, and dry faster overnight.

While our shoes or boots may get wet from the occasional water crossing or rainy day…once things dry up and with warm to hot temperatures, the simple act of hiking dries the shoe as we go along during the day. In contrast a traditional hiking shoe made from leather and / or utilizing waterproofing layers will hold sweat or outside moisture in, and in rather miserable fashion sometimes day after day while backpacking. Usually summer is also the time where our higher mileage backpacking trips are planned, and staying light on your feet helps greatly in this regard. Popular lightweight options include trail runners such as the Altra Lone Peak and the Brooks Cascadia, and for a boot option the non-waterproof version Merrel Moab Mids can frequently be seen on the trail.
Best Winter Footwear Options
True winter hiking and backpacking are where things start to get specialized, keeping feet dry and warm is key, and keeping your feet dry doesn’t mean your feet will necessarily be warm at this stage. Here we know we’ll be encountering deep snow, and waterproof mid-height to higher winter boot options will be sufficient at keeping snow out as long they are compatible with another key piece of winter gear – your gaiter choice – and for cold conditions two things can be helpful: a vapor barrier liner and going with an insulated boot.
Insulated boots are typically insulated with Thinsulate, proprietary insulation, or even space age type materials like Aerogel, and are typically rated by a temperature rating (usually quite generous), and / or an insulation weight spec such as 200 gram, 400 gram, etc., but in all regards the addition of insulation moves this option into a quite specialized category. Even in these conditions, I prefer to avoid a traditional hiking boot with extensive full grain leather, etc. – these boots are often too heavy and considering the leather combined with waterproof membranes, lack breathability.

A 200 gram insulated waterproof breathable boot for backpacking. Many hiking boots will feature a gaiter ring or attachment point towards the toe.
Preferences will vary, but generally in cold conditions the more sedentary you’ll be the more insulation you’ll need – if you are a wildlife photographer or heading in for a day of icefishing, you will probably want the heaviest insulated boot you can get, or you may need to go with a specialized option for something like backcountry ski touring or mountaineering.
For lightweight hiking, backpacking, and snowshoeing purposes however, I’ve found 200-400 gram insulated boots to be perfect for higher output hiking and snowshoeing activities , but as part of a footwear solution. This involves adding in a VBL, gaiters, and a warmer sock solution while making sure the boot is sufficiently sized to accommodate good circulation and the additional gear. Either way, in these bitter cold conditions, test your setup on day hikes first, test both on the move and not, and adjust as needed.
The Lightweight Big 3
Over time I’ve found that for the great majority of year-round backpacking and hiking purposes, having 3 types of footwear options on hand can handle almost any condition very well. A lightweight, breathable trail running shoe is my go-to option from mid to late spring through early to mid fall and for anything from the easiest day hike to the longest backpacking trip. In fact, I find I lace these up as soon as I can in spring and hold out as far as I can into the fall; the light weight combined with the breathability and quick dry times make these a comfortable option for the majority of the hiking season and for backpacking with a reasonably lightweight pack.

For cooler springtime and fall conditions, stepping up to a mid-height, waterproof / breathable hiking boot adds warmth, keeps your feet dry during these times when additional moisture will be encountered and dry times are increased anyway, and the extra height provides a little ankle support on slick, uneven terrain (you can't always tell where your foot will end up in snow), and will help to keep light snow out.
For true winter conditions, a lightweight, insulated winter hiking boot will be well appreciated as temperatures fall into the teens and further to below 0 temperatures. A 200-400 gram insulated boot (depending on activity level) has worked well for me even in extreme cold, and in these true winter conditions I always utilize a VBL and gaiters, providing additional warmth and keeping the interior of the boot dry. If you’ll however, be sitting around a lot, or opt to skip the VBL on day hikes, you will want to swing your choice towards boots of the heavier insulated variety. Keeping the rest of your body dry and warm is also critical in this type of weather (and goes a long way towards keeping your feet warm as well) – but that’s another article.
From trail runners all the way to winter boots, out of the box fit is just one part of the equation. While most of the shoe comfort will be built into the shoe, you can also customize fit and performance using a few lacing techniques that can help take a good shoe to great. For more on lacing take a look at our lacing tips guide which offers a few techniques to help customize your fit.
One Footwear Option to Rule Them All?
With all the previously discussed options in mind, without a doubt hiking shoes are not only a personal choice, but they are for the most part, specifically suited for individual situations. But what if you want one hiking or backpacking shoe that would work well across many, if not most seasons and conditions?
While I’m a big lightweight trail running shoe fan anytime I can possibly get away with wearing them – if I had to pick only one shoe for all conditions, and as much as I might grit my teeth on summer hikes or even stay home when temps fell below 0, I would have to choose a venerable mid-height, waterproof breathable lightweight hiking boot for these conditions.
The mid-height waterproof / breathable boot is perfect for shoulder seasons and in light snow, and provides sufficient warmth in these cool, but not cold conditions while keeping feet mostly dry. These boots are a bit too hot for me for summer hiking, but with a few changes of socks are totally workable for warm, but not too hot, mountain hiking. While an uninsulated boot will be too cold for true winter hiking, they can be used for quite cold temps combined with a liner sock, a VBL setup, and another warmer sock as long as the boot is sized appropriately. Combined with gaiters, this setup will be appropriate for many warmer winter hiking conditions.

The lightweight waterproof breathable mid-height boot is an extremely versatile option across the seasons.
Conclusion
As we've detailed, the best hiking shoes vary by season, terrain, weather, and your personal preferences. Just like the usefulness and performance of an otherwise nice vehicle can be compromised by a set of cheap tires, keeping the right hiking treads on your feet will ensure you’ll be able to make the most out of any hiking and backpacking trip – and if you take care of your feet in the outdoors, they’re sure to take care of you. No matter the solution you choose to go with, fit is of course as important as design, and once you’ve dialed in your own outdoor footwear system – be it a collection of shoes and boots perfect for each season and scenario or an option or two that’s workable across many, all we have to do is lace up and hike.
For a list of hiking / backpacking shoe and boot choices, including everything from trail runners to winter boots and beyond that can be sorted and filtered by the options discussed above, check out this page at REI.

When it comes to backpacking stoves, there are several routes one can take and several different main categories of stoves exist – each with an array of pros and cons. Without a doubt however, no matter which way you go about it the backpacking stove is an important part of any overnight or multi-night gear ensemble. A backpacking stove provides hot meals and drinks, goes a long way towards keeping you warm on chilly mornings and evenings, and for backpacking and hiking a stove needs to be convenient, lightweight, and reasonably fast to use with readily available fuel.

Canister stoves offer proven performance with a convenient fuel source.
The Canister Stove
A canister stove uses a pressurized gas canister for its fuel source, and this fuel can be butane, isobutane, or propane and is usually a mixture of these fuels. These canisters are available in different sizes for varying trip lengths, and if you'll be using the canister in colder temperatures, you want to avoid a canister containing regular butane as its vaporization temperature is quite high in the 30 degree range (translation: your stove may not work / performance will suffer / it may be difficult to use in colder temperatures). However, canisters containing a mixture of isobutane and propane are much more suitable as temperatures drop.
Isobutane will vaporize down to about the 10 degree mark and even lower as you gain altitude, and propane vaporizes down to the arctic-like temperature of minus 44, but there is only so much propane in your usual backpacking canister mix. Canister valves automatically open and close when you connect and disconnect the stove for ease of use and packing, and note that you can mix and match brands here – you don’t necessarily have to match the maker of your stove to your canister brand. As long as the canister has a Lindal valve you are good to go. Popular blended canister fuel brands include MSR IsoPro as well as fuel canisters from JetBoil and propane / isobutane mixtures from Snow Peak.

Inverted canister stoves excel during cold weather.
Either way canister stoves offer convenience: they are easy to carry, usually fuel efficient, simple to use, and the pre-packaged fuel is likely readily available at your local outfitter. While having the fuel contained and prepackaged provides that convenience, they are non-refillable and after a while you are likely to end up with a bunch of canisters that don't have enough fuel to get you through a trip, but aren't empty either. They are recyclable if empty and punctured, and Jetboil makes a specific tool for that purpose. A necessary accessory for any canister stove user should be a digital kitchen scale that measures to the gram – this way you can always calculate the exact amount of fuel inside a canister before a trip. Canister stoves excel at boiling water, but you can dial the flame down and simmer…or even bake…with practice and with the right approach.
Upright Canister Stoves
Among canister stoves, upright canister stoves screw directly into the top of the canister and can be quite light – with many of these stoves falling in the 2-3 ounce range. I’ve used upright canister stoves with isobutane / propane canisters on trips with lows in the high teens, but usage much below these temperatures will become difficult, especially considering that the longer you use a canister in a sitting, the colder it will become – colder than the actual outside temperature – due to evaporative cooling. In cold or cooler temperatures it’s good to keep a few tricks in mind. In cold temperatures you can place the canister in a bit of water inside a container like a shallow bowl if needed to keep the canister’s temperature up and maintain performance, and sleeping with the canister inside your sleeping bag is never a bad idea when temps get chilly to give you a head start in the morning.

Soto WindMaster Upright Canister Stove with MSR IsoPro 110 gram Fuel Canister
Other types of upright canister stoves feature an all in one, integrated canister stove system like many of the system offerings made by Jetboil and options like the MSR WindBurner that are designed to be particularly efficient, at the cost of upfront weight, while saving fuel. These systems may be a good option if your primary need is boiling water. I personally prefer a more typical upright canister stove and like to choose different pots – like those from the Evernew Ultralight Series – depending on the trip.
In recent years several upright canister stove options that utilize a pressure regulating valve have made it to the market, often claiming to increase overall and cold weather performance. While these stoves won't replace an inverted or liquid stove for cold conditions, I have found them to have better and more predictable performance overall when compared to other options featuring a standard needle valve.
Popular upright canister stoves include my current choice, the Soto WindMaster – find our full review here, and a couple classic examples can be found in the MSR Pocket Rocket 2 and the Snow Peak GigaPower. Integrated canister stoves like the Jetboil Zip are also quite popular.
Remote and Inverted Canister Stoves
Remote canister stoves keep the canister remote from the burner and feed fuel via a hose. This allows for two benefits: remote canister stoves let you really shield the burner with a large windscreen to block wind and hold in heat to save fuel while the canister remains outside the windscreen – in an upright canister stove this would make the canister too dangerously hot. Secondly, if said remote canister stove allows you to use the fuel canister in an inverted position, a solution to the colder weather fuel vaporization issues previously discussed is realized, as using the canister upside down feeds fuel in a liquid form where it's subsequently preheated and vaporized at the hot burner of the stove itself in cold and very cold temperatures. For a remote canister stove that allows for inverted use, I use the MSR WindPro II. You can find our WindPro II review here.

MSR WindPro II and Remote Canister
For all types of canister stoves I like a dedicated starter if I can get it, and always look for built in piezo ignition. A separate piezo starter can be used if your stove of choice doesn’t feature one, or a lighter will do the job as well. Piezo igniters can fail, but they can also be replaced. Of course, always have a backup ignition source in your separate fire starting kit, but the convenience of a piezo igniter has far outweighed any small amount of hassle in my experience. No matter if you're using an upright or inverted canister fuel stove, be sure to dispose of spent fuel canisters appropriately.
Liquid Gas Stoves
The bread and butter stove of cold weather camping and for mountaineers alike, liquid fuel stoves like the MSR Whisperlite International are reliable options that burn white gas, or even an array of liquid fuels including gasoline (note that the Whisperlite Universal also runs on canisters). A liquid fuel stove will work well in very cold weather, but most liquid fuel stoves are heavier and more cumbersome to use in regards to the need to handle liquid fuel in refillable fuel bottles, priming the stove, complicated hardware with more moving parts and maintenance etc.
However, if you’re into group or complex meals like baking on the trail, a liquid stove may be hard to beat (options like the MSR Dragonfly are specifically designed with simmering in mind). A liquid fuel backpacking stove is thus perhaps best for the cold weather backpacker, the backpacking chef, or those who desire a stove that will work across all conditions who might not mind the extra weight and the potential hassle of a fuel bottle for 3 season use.
Alcohol Stoves
Alcohol stoves are designed to run on denatured alcohol (available at many hardware stores, etc.), or for my use I’ve always run them on the cleaner highest proof grain alcohol (Everclear). The benefits of an alcohol stove are weight and simplicity, there aren’t any complicated mechanisms or moving parts – you usually just fill and light the stove. With simplicity comes reduced weight, and the stove can even be made from tuna cans, soda cans, and the like. Alcohol stoves can be subject to fire restrictions and require some extra care with the open flame and fuel. I’ve used alcohol stoves across many conditions and my favorite offering is the Trail Designs Ti-Tri system that works well to trap the limited heat that an alcohol stove produces while blocking wind, greatly increasing efficiency. Another venerable alcohol stove option can be found in one of the several Trangia burners that are available.

Alcohol Stove from Trail Designs
Regardless, if you go with an alcohol stove you will definitely want a windscreen of some type. Alcohol stoves usually compete with upright canister stoves; ultimately the choice is up to you regarding which benefits you find most appealing and on longer trips, the increased efficiency of a canister stove may begin to cut into an alcohol stove’s weight savings. Fuel for an alcohol stove can perhaps be easier to find, and alcohol stoves have been popular for thru-hiking and ultralight backpacking usage for some time. With an alcohol stove you can dial in the exact amount of fuel you need prior to a trip instead of having to take a full canister each time, and perhaps taking too much fuel and the extra weight. On the other hand with a digital scale and some partial canisters to choose from, you can get close with a canister as well.
Wood Burning Stoves

Ti-Tri Wood Burning Stove
Many wood stoves exist on the market, with of course the simplest way to cook with wood being a small campfire – which I’m most likely to use when cooking in this manner – although I’ve utilized the combo wood or alcohol burning Trail Designs Caldera Ti-Tri system for this purpose as well. A wood stove won’t beat a campfire in weight carried, but will beat it in convenience and efficiency. Cooking with wood of course requires you collect wood and start a fire, and would have to be ruled out in areas where fire bans are in effect. Wood also leaves residue on pots and the stove, but a wood fire is hard to beat for ambiance, and fuel is free and you don’t have to carry your fuel in your pack during the day.
Chemical Tablet Stoves
Stoves that burn manufactured hexamine chemical tablets like those from Esbit are quite efficient and very lightweight. Like alcohol stoves, you will want a windscreen to maximize efficiency and block any wind here. These tablets and Esbit fuel can be a bit hard to find if you’re in a pinch, but you can of course stock up from online sources. Esbit stoves leave a residue on your cookware and produce fumes, and as I prefer cleaner or more natural burning fuel alternatives, my experience with Esbit or other hexamine stoves is limited, but I can see the appeal for emergency or backup usage. Some ultralight backpackers however find Esbit fuel appealing for its simplicity and light weight. Esbit stoves, like a titanium wing stove, are small, light, simple, and easily carried. Many backpackers would consider alcohol, wood, and solid fuel tablet stoves alternative fuel stoves.
Final Thoughts
As with nearly any other backpacking gear category, there may be no best backpacking stove, but hopefully the above information can assist with determining which option(s) would work best for you. While I own them all, these days my general approach is to take an upright canister stove (the Soto WindMaster) for 3 season use. Only when needed in very cold weather or anytime melting snow will be needed will I reach for an inverted canister stove. That same inverted canister stove – the MSR WindPro II, would work just fine in the summer as well if the extra weight wasn’t a concern.
But whether you go with a one stove to do it all approach or like to mix and match to specifically meet the needs of the excursion at hand, any backpacking stove should ideally be durable, reliable, and have the ability to heat water and cook your cuisine of choice in a reasonable amount of time, and through whatever conditions will be encountered during a trip.
For a full list of backpacking stoves that you can sort by fuel type and many of the points discussed in this article, check out this page at REI.com.

Water treatment in the backcountry reminds me of backpacking and hiking footwear just a bit – if you’re not thinking of it when you’re out on the trail, you know you got it right. On the flipside, a water filter or purifier that clogs halfway through a trip will have you baby-sitting a device possibly for hours the rest of the way; a situation to certainly be avoided. In this article we will take a quick look at the best water treatment options currently available.

Note that there are many ways to go about treating your water in the backcountry, however for the purposes of this article we’ll stick with mechanical treatment. Boiling and chemical treatment can also be used but is not as common (except for melting snow in winter), and my take is that these methods, other than on winter trips, are best utilized either as a backup or for niche ultralight type scenarios. Caveats stated, on to the article.
Best Backpacking & Hiking Water Filters
For those that are packing fast and light style and don’t have much time in camp or time for breaks on the trail, and need to only process water for themselves, Katadyn offers their BeFree 1.0 liter system ($45, less than 3 ounces) that offers hollow fiber filtration in a very lightweight, fill-and-drink-as-you-go type of approach and a 1000L rated capacity.
This would be a suggested option due to its manufacturer-approved integrity test – which I feel is mandatory on any water filter (it just happens in the backcountry – was that small drop too much...did it freeze?). This same BeFree filtration design has also been utilized in their BeFree 3L gravity system ($80, 7 ounces) and the larger capacity BeFree 6L gravity system ($120, 9 ounces).

For more traditional backpacking with time in camp and perhaps a lunch break appreciated, pump or gravity filters come into play including the latter 2 BeFree options above. For my backpacking, I particularly like the Platypus GravityWorks system ($135, 12 ounces) – you can read our GravityWorks review here. This system may be a little cumbersome with all the hoses but offers reliability, plus the ability to hang the dirty water bag and let gravity do the work. I use the 4L system, but for groups a 6L GravityWorks system is available.
Platypus also offers their QuickDraw 2L water filtration system ($80, 6 ounces) that is backflushable and integrity-testable. This is a unique setup that you can use multiple ways – connected to plastic bottles, to the included reservoir, etc. – depending on what works best for you.

Pump filters like this Hiker Pro have been a go-to for decades and are the classic choice.
Traditionally however pump filters have been the backpacker’s choice, and these filters are still relevant today. However, there are the same hoses as a gravity system to deal with and moving parts are introduced along with some associated weight. Cleaning becomes complicated, maintenance is often increased, and there is more to break. If you like to keep it old school here the Katadyn Hiker Pro ($100, 11 ounces) and the MSR MiniWorks EX ($130, 15 ounces) should be considered. However, unfortunately with no integrity test you’ll have to be especially careful in regards to freezing and drops etc.
If an inline (with your hydration reservoir) water filter is something you’d like to explore, the MSR Thru-link Water Filter ($55, 3 ounces) is great on price and weight, although you’ll need to do just a little work to integrate into your own setup. However, quick-connects are provided that makes this easier. This filter filters to .2 microns and features activated carbon to improve water taste and quality along with a manufacturer-approved integrity test.

Gravity, inline, squeeze-type, or pump….see or our full Backpacking & Hiking Water Treatment Guide for pros and cons and more. Hollow-fiber water filters have come to dominate the backpacking and hiking market and for good reason – they typically offer reliable performance, can typically be backflushed / cleaned, and are very light. For more on how to maintain these filters see our hollow fiber water filter maintenance guide.
Summary: Best Backpacking & Hiking Water Filters
Katadyn BeFree 1.0 liter
Katadyn BeFree 3L gravity system
Katadyn BeFree 6L gravity system
Platypus GravityWorks 4L
Platypus GravityWorks 6L
Platypus QuickDraw 2L
MSR Thru-link
Best Hiking & Backpacking Water Purifiers
While you can add in certain methods to your water processing process with a water filter such as an inline carbon element and / or UV treatment, there are times when a water purifier may be a better choice depending on your backpacking destination and your own comfort level.

To further treat water, UV devices and / or carbon filters can be added into your water treatment routine if needed.
I’ve used several purifiers in the past that utilize electro-adsorption technology and while these products hands down produced some of the best tasting water I can imagine, the cartridges quickly clog. If backpacking, you’ll be buying plenty of cartridges and long trips are tough. Even day hiking and processing typical backcountry water can be difficult. While these types of purifiers may be suitable for travel-type purposes or one-off hiking trips, for more frequent use, they are difficult to use when larger volumes of water need to be processed.

Electro-adsorption purifiers have produced the best tasting and cleanest treated water I've ever experienced in the backcountry. They've also been the fastest to clog.
For backcountry water purification, and when the best resulting water is desired in an all-in-one type product and something like viruses may be a concern, the MSR Guardian water purifier ($400, 17 ounces) is a go-to choice. You will pay a weight penalty here, as well as a price premium for that matter, but the Guardian is a unique water treatment device – first of all it is a purifier, not a filter – and secondly it can withstand freezing temperatures and drops from up to 6’, both of which are quite unique. Additionally, it has a self-cleaning design and can output up to 2.5L a minute. There is no carbon in this purifier.

That said, if you prefer the more laid-back, gravity-style approach, MSR now also offers a Guardian Gravity water purifier ($310, 18 ounces). While sharing the name of the Guardian pump system, this cartridge is a bit different – it’s not rated for freezing or drops, but MSR does detail an integrity test you can perform on it if you’re not sure. It also differs in that a carbon stage is included to further polish your water. Output will also be slower and in the .5L / minute range, so make sure you have a little time…but if you’re like me, kicking your feet up while gravity does the work is not a bad way to go about it.
Summary: Best Hiking and Backpacking Water Purifiers
MSR Guardian Pump Water Purifier
MSR Guardian Gravity Water Purifier
Conclusion
Every destination is different in regards to water quality, and this is one of the first things to do when it comes to planning for an upcoming trip. If your destinations are all higher mountain destinations and you are picky about where you get your water, it’s possible that one product can cover all your water treatment needs.

That said, if your adventures take you from the desert to the mountains and everything in between, it’s likely you’ll either collect another product or two over the years and / or add-in methods to further process the water you’ll drink. In the end, there are a lot of tools in the toolbox and when it comes to your backcountry drinking water, it’s best to use the right tool for the job at hand.
For more background on water treatment methods, what we need to treat for, and water treatment strategy, see our Backpacking and Hiking Water Treatment Guide. You can also find a list of available water filters and purifiers here at REI Co-op.

On any hiking or backpacking trip, the ability to procure drinking water during the hike is one of the most important logistical considerations for both pre-trip planning as well as while we’re on the trail. Finding the water is of course the first step, and having the necessary gear to properly process the water so it’s suitable to drink is the second part of the equation.
Here we’ll look at the main types of water filters and backcountry water treatment methods that are best suited for backpacking and hiking, and elaborate on the necessary reading between the lines that needs to be done when choosing the best backpacking water filters or treatment options for backcountry use.

An assortment of various types of backcountry water treatment options
Backpacking & Hiking Water Treatment: What We Need to Treat & Filter
Microorganisms and Biological Concerns
While protozoan concerns such as giardia and cryptosporidium get the most publicity, concerns are best looked at in a categorical fashion. Starting with biological contaminants from smallest to largest, viruses (example: hepatitis, rotavirus, often smaller than .1 micron) are notoriously difficult to filter as they can slip through most common filter’s pore size.
Luckily, viruses are mostly a concern where there are many other people – for example where you might find untreated sewage. However, it’s always important to remember the source of the water you’re filtering. Bacteria (example: E.Coli, Salmonella, average size greater than .3 microns) are a more common concern in the wilderness as they are spread by both humans and wildlife, but luckily they are larger than viruses and more easily captured by most common filters.
Protozoa are a bit larger and include cryptosporidium and giardia, and a filter that will filter to 1 micron or smaller is recommended for removal. Concerns that are larger still include tapeworm eggs and unsightly, but not necessarily dangerous, critters of various types in your water such as insect larvae. On many occasions I’ve scooped water from crystal clear mountain streams and upon close inspection, have been quite surprised at what that scoop reveals to the eye – from sticks and stones to tadpoles and worms of various types – not to mention what you can’t see. I prefer to get my calories from my food bag while backpacking, and luckily these larger organisms are of course, very easily filtered.

Water sources will vary in purity, but various types of backcountry water treatment and filtration methods are available and can be utilized. Each method offers pros and cons, and I often prefer to use methods / technologies in combination depending on the trip.
Other Treatment Considerations
Many other components can make up the water you’re drinking in the backcountry as well. Chemicals, pesticides and herbicides, heavy metals, tannins, silt, taste and odor, as well as natural particulates of various types will need to be considered. Some of these concerns will only affect smell and taste, others could affect your health. Visible suspended matter is removed by most filters, but tannins and taste / smell can pass through – in my experience even drinking tea colored water however, has been fine.
If your water source is downstream of an area that has seen prior or active agricultural or mining use for example, chemicals and other various components introduced by man could be in the water source, especially as you move further downstream in the water supply chain. To reduce these types of contaminants and concerns we can utilize a purifier or filter that contains a carbon stage, or add a carbon element or step to an existing setup to assist in reducing many of these possible impurities.
Physical Backpacking & Hiking Water Filters / Purifiers
Most water treatment products designed for backcountry use that are reasonably lightweight, will not address all of the above concerns in one fell swoop. Thus, we need to evaluate our backpacking and hiking destinations, as well as our own personal comfort level to find the best compromise. For backpacking in the mountainous wilderness areas of the United States for example, the general consensus is that viruses are usually not of a great concern, and many times our water sources are fairly pure from man-made pollution as we’re getting it close to the source.
In these cases bacteria and protozoa are usually the main concerns. Other backcountry trips may find us filtering water on the banks of a river far from the source, that has passed through many towns before we consume it, perhaps on foreign soil, and the full gamut of contaminants are more of a possibility.
Water filters do just what they say; they filter the water to a certain micron level to remove bacteria and protozoa. Water purification by definition, including options like the First Need XLE will take this all a step further by also removing viruses, though not all products that are officially listed as purifiers will remove or reduce chemicals, heavy metals, tannins, debris, etc. – your water may be purified by marketing general standards, but it will not necessarily be “pure”.

A classic pump filter works well for pulling water out of hard to reach and shallow sources.
Popular water filters for backcountry water treatment should filter to an absolute pore size of .3 microns or smaller for adequate removal of bacteria, protozoa, and all things larger. Note the absolute part of the pore size equation, as filters listed with a “nominal” pore size will only on average filter to that level. Absolute is a guarantee, and is the number we’re actually interested in.
If you prefer viral protection, you will need an option with a much smaller absolute pore size; as a result flow rate will likely suffer and these types of purifiers are rare. Alternatively some filters combine with other technology to treat the virus part using an iodine or ion exchange process. Backpacking water purifiers that remove viruses physically are rare but can be found in the MSR Guardian pump purifier. Other options combine a normal filter with a cartridge that contains an iodinated resin for added virus protection, while the Grayl purifier uses an ion exchange process to achieve this goal.
Physical filtration can be achieved utilizing various types of elements and technologies. The most popular lightweight water filter technology today, hollow fiber filters work by passing water through a multitude of small tubes; tubes that are perforated by many, many, pores so small (rated to the micron) that anything larger than this pore size cannot pass through, trapping any living organisms or non-living matter larger than the pore size. Hollow fiber filters are popular for their light weight and versatility – you can pretty much find one in any filter configuration you prefer – be that as a gravity filter, inline filter, or pump.
Hollow Fiber Filtration
Hollow fiber filters can usually be backflushed to help restore flow rate, and flow rate will vary depending on pore size, surface area, and use. The most popular hollow fiber filters are in the .1 to .2 micron range making them sufficient for bacteria and protozoa, and this micron level is usually a good balance of protection, sufficient flow rate, and lifespan. Smaller micron, virus-rated filters also exist in this category as seen with the aforementioned MSR Guardian purifier, but flow rate will be slower due to the smaller pore size.

Gravity filters, an example shown here using hollow fiber filter technology, use the force of gravity to move water through the filter.
Hollow fiber filters cannot be allowed to freeze when wet (the MSR Guardian is an exception) or after they've been used, so on trips where it will freeze at night you’ll need to sleep with the filter in your sleeping bag or carry it in your pocket any time temperatures begin to flirt with freezing during the day – this goes for nearly all other filters using different types of elements as well.
In addition to freezing, physical filters also need to be treated with some care in regards to drops and impacts, which could damage the element. Some hollow fiber filters like the Platypus GravityWorks (read our full GravityWorks review here), and the Katadyn BeFree have manufacturer supported integrity tests which are very helpful for a little peace of mind – unlike other gear, you can’t really tell if a filter is working properly or not, without this test.
Ceramic Media
Other types of physical filter media will use a ceramic element like the MSR EX filter, and the Katadyn Pocket Filter, or utilize a glass fiber element like the venerable Katadyn Hiker Pro. Ceramic filters have the ability to be repeatedly field cleaned. Some filters are entirely self-contained and will need to be thrown away when their flow rate diminishes too much to be of practical use, while others setups will have a replaceable cartridge that fits into a housing.
Approaches to Filtering in the Field
No matter what filter technology you end up going with, physical filters are most often utilized in an inline, gravity, squeeze, or pump configuration. The traditional pump water filter requires you to pump the water through the filter element via a hose in the water source, and is a proven setup at both getting you water and providing an ample upper body workout.
Pump filters have moving parts and increase the complication and weight, but these are also great for pulling water out of hard to reach places. The other methods will require you to fill some type of reservoir with dirty water first, by either submerging the dirty water container or bag in the water source or, if it’s one of those shallow or small sources you occasionally may need to use a separate vessel to fill the dirty container, like a mug (boil later to sterilize).

An inline water filter connected to a hydration setup treats water as you drink.
Gravity setups like the Platypus GravityWorks and the Katadyn Gravity BeFree let gravity do the work for you, by filling a dirty reservoir with water and by elevating, hanging from a tree branch or rock if possible, water passes through the filter element into a clean container. Inline setups such as the MSR Thru-Link splice into the tubing of your hydration reservoir and your own drinking force filters the water with each sip, while with squeeze setups like the Sawyer Squeeze, you can utilize a combination of gravity and squeezing force to move the dirty water through the filter and the filtered water into a clean vessel or drink directly.
Other options integrate the filter into a water bottle (LifeStraw Go Series) or softbottle (BeFree), where much in the same manner as an inline filter with a hydration reservoir, your drinking or a combination of drinking and squeezing is what filters the water as you go. Straw type options like the Lifestraw Peak (view at REI) are also another strategy, treating water by directly inserting one end into a water source and drinking from the other side of the straw. A straw filter is limited in that you cannot process larger volumes of water and each sip takes more work, and straw filters are perhaps best reserved more for emergency usage.
In whatever case, seek out the cleanest water possible to prolong the life of your filter and for the best flow rate. While many filters can be backflushed or cleaned, this is usually a losing battle over time. Although filters are rated by the gallon or liter in regards to their lifespan, and while it’s a great idea to evaluate this when choosing a filter, take this number with a grain of salt. Clean water is important for other treatment methods as well; in very turbid situations it’s a good idea to allow water to settle in a separate container (in for example, a Sea to Summit Bucket), then treat from the top. Luckily, this is more of the exception than the norm for most of us.
Backcountry UV Water Treatment
Ultraviolet treatment options like those offered by Steripen, come in various forms using either normal or rechargeable batteries, and utilize, as with many municipalities, UV light from a special lamp that’s inserted into your water container to neutralize many microorganisms by disrupting their DNA. This process usually takes about a minute and you’ll most likely be treating a liter of water or so at a time. Some other UV bottles have come (and gone) to / from the market that feature an integrated lamp, and yet others have been designed to float from the surface of your water vessel.

UV water treatment uses battery powered ultraviolet light that's inserted in a container to treat many microorganisms.
On the plus side, these UV treatment options are quite effective at neutralizing the things that physical filters have the toughest time with – viruses – and the technology is proven. However, many are not comfortable relying on an electronic and potentially fragile instrument for their main or only wilderness water treatment source.
Additionally, UV light on its own is not sufficient for neutralizing all living organisms that could be present in your water – tapeworm eggs for example, or larger organisms and larvae that may or may not do any harm but may not necessarily be what you want to ingest, nor will a UV product remove anything from the water or improve its composition. If the water is dirty, you’ll be drinking dirty water.
Steripen offers a filter with a 40x40 micron mesh screen that can help here, which is intended to reduce organic matter or particulates. Performance may also be insufficient in murky water, requiring pre-filtration. All said, this is an excellent technology as long as you’re aware of the limitations; I utilize a Steripen Adventurer Opti as a secondary treatment with a hollow fiber filter on any trip where I desire viral treatment.
Chemical Water Treatment
Chemical treatment usually utilizing chlorine dioxide (Aquamira) or Iodine (Potable Aqua) and on occasion some other chemicals like household bleach or other chemicals that produce chlorine, like Aquatabs can be effective, but like anything this category has its share of pros and cons. In contrast to physical filters and like UV treatment, chemicals are again effective against viruses, but often take longer (hours) to work on such concerns as cryptosporidium (4 hours) and these products will add a taste to your water; other products are not suitable for cryptosporidium whatsoever. Advocates for chemical treatments praise the ease of just adding the treatment right into their water bottles and allowing the treatment to take place as they hike.
To be honest, most of my thought goes into making sure my drinking water source is either free of any chemicals or how to reduce or remove them should there be any chance of them being present, so chemical treatment is a bit counter-productive from my point of view, and options like iodine are not an option for pregnant women or those with any type of a thyroid issue. Iodine and chlorine (i.e. bleach) on their own, are not effective against cryptosporidium.
However, this method is lightweight and over the years has been popular with ultralight backpackers, though decreasing in recent years with the increased availability of very light hollow fiber filters like the Sawyer Mini. In this category, other devices have seen the market over the years that create a solution with salt to create an oxidant solution that you subsequently dissolve in water; but as with other chemical treatments, with a 4 hour wait time these are not the quickest of options.
An example can be found in the discontinued MSR MIOX. These devices seem to come and go from the market. Chemical treatment may also be integrated with some filters to move them into the purifier category. As with boiling, chemical treatment can be a good backup to bring as well or to utilize in conjunction with other methods.

Hundreds of miles from the source, I took extra steps in my treatment process at this backcountry location.
Boiling
Boiling water is an excellent way to neutralize microorganisms that might be present, but it takes a while, requires a lot of fuel, and let’s be honest, on a hot summer day, who wants to drink steaming hot water when we could be drinking that crisp and cold water from a mountain stream? As such, boiling can be tough to utilize as a main water treatment method on most 3 season backpacking trips, but it’s an excellent method to keep in mind as a backup method should your filter or other method fail you.
In winter however, melting snow for water may be your best and only option. Be sure to bring a big pot (my Evernew 1.3 works well solo) and a stove that will work well during continued usage in cold conditions like the MSR WindPro II – read our WindPro II review here. Opinions on how long to boil water vary widely; the CDC suggests bringing water to a rolling boil for 1 minute, or for 3 full minutes at altitudes above 6562 feet (be sure to check that 2 on the end of your altimeter!). Data suggests however that pathogens are neutralized at lower temperatures; in the end it depends on heat and time but luckily, both are achieved by bringing your water to a boil and after removal from heat.
Carbon Filtration
As we’ve seen, the technologies used above are all mainly designed to thwart microorganisms. If improving the taste and smell of your water, or if any agricultural and / or industrial contamination is a concern, look for a system that integrates filtration technology combined with a carbon stage that will improve and / or reduce, but not necessarily eliminate, these concerns.

If desired, a carbon element can be integrated into an existing system using a modular approach to filter water further.
This will increase the weight of your system, and possibly the cost of replacement elements, etc., but there is of course no free lunch. The Grayl UltraPress and Katadyn Hiker Pro are all examples of filters with integrated carbon filtration – or if you’re like me and have settled on a treatment method that does not address this concern, but you may occasionally head out on a trip where some of these concerns would be nice to cover, you can always splice in an add-on carbon element (I use an add on GravityWorks Carbon Element) for this purpose when needed.
My Approach to Backcountry Water Treatment
For a complicated issue, there are unfortunately no one size fits all solutions and in the end, when we’re concerned about not carrying extra weight, it all comes down to a compromise and what each one of us is most interested in removing from our water. Luckily there are many lightweight and effective options out there to choose from. For general backpacking we should expect to find an option that will treat what we’re concerned with for around a pound or less. About half a pound is usually doable, and lighter options of just a few ounces are very realistic to target. The best backpacking water filter or water treatment method very much depends on the task at hand.

Most of my trips are very well served by standard hollow fiber filtration technology; as with all of us most likely, my preference is to backpack into areas where the water is already fairly good. As such I’m not usually concerned about viruses or pollution, (both a Steripen and carbon filter have a spot in the gear room for such destinations to use in conjunction with a hollow fiber filter), and I like to target the removal of bacteria, protozoa, and the removal of larger critters no matter their parasitical intent or lack thereof.
The hollow fiber filter also has that added benefit of giving your water a good scrub; removing particulate matter. I really like a filter that has a manufacturer supported integrity test as well, so it essentially comes down to the cartridge for me. The Platypus GravityWorks cartridge fits all of the above criteria, and it just so happens the whole setup it comes with works well and is pretty darn convenient to use both on the trail as well as in camp.
For a complete list of backcountry-ready, tried and tested backpacking water filters and treatment methods that you can sort and filter by all the main points we’ve discussed in this post, check out this page at REI.