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While I make every effort to make electronics as small a part of the backcountry experience as possible, I can’t say I’ve ever gone on a trip without taking along some type of electronic item. Whether the old school giant Petzl headlamp that I packed on trips in the 90s, or the smartphone and satellite communicator (along with, thankfully smaller and lighter headlamps) of today, electronics are admittedly a part of every trip in some manner for just about all of us. Even on trips where I haven’t brought the smartphone or the satellite communicator, in addition to the headlamp a camera is non-negotiable for me. And as the folders of photos I keep from previous trips demonstrate where trip timelines stop short, I’ve run out of battery more than once.

The Lixada 10 watt solar panel is an ultralight option that can directly charge devices via USB.
Electronics on the Trail
My general power usage on the trail is however, what I’d consider light. I navigate by way of a paper map with perhaps the occasional smartphone GPS check to double verify navigation decisions or position, and then the phone, which remains in airplane mode for the entire trip, is turned off. If I’m bored at night, I might fire the smartphone up and look at the route for the next day on USGS topos rather than the larger scale paper map I carry. My headlamp is used sparingly – I usually don’t hike at night – and my light is used on the lowest mode possible to accomplish the task.
My camera is however used frequently – so I toss in an extra battery or two to solve the issue. My inReach satellite communicator is turned off during the day and during the night, with check in messages sent in the evening and morning. With this type of approach not only am I able both make use of modern day conveniences in the wilderness, but I’m also able to throttle their usage to a level that works for me and so that these devices don’t infringe upon my wilderness experience. And leaving with all these devices fully charged, I can confidently manage trips of a week or more and have even made it through 10 days on one phone and headlamp charge. I’m not however, so lucky with the camera. And how many $50 spare camera batteries does one really want to pack along? Not only can the cash add up, but so can the weight.

For either heavier electronics usage than my use case, longer trips, or longer trips where you might resupply but don’t have time or an opportunity to recharge, a solution is needed. The most popular option can be found in portable lithium power banks, which feature a USB output and are relatively lightweight, easy to pack, and can charge your devices day, cloudy day, or night. On the downside, the level of power is finite, they self-discharge over time, and in order to deal with the charging losses, you need to buy a power bank with a much larger mAh rating than you think you need which equals more weight (generally you’ll need to add about 40%). And with the limited cycle life of li-on batteries, I try to accumulate as few as possible. Solar is another option, and is typically heavy as well. Often solar chargers have an integrated battery – the idea is to recharge as you hike during the day, then charge your devices at night. This may work, but adds weight, complexity, and another battery to deal with.
The Lixada 10 Watt USB Solar Panel
The Lixada 10 Watt USB solar panel however offers direct charging – there are no batteries involved and the product is essentially a solar panel with a USB port. The panel is approximately 10 x 5.5”, with everything embedded in what appears to be HDPE plastic with a carrying / attachment handle and 4 grommets, one on each corner. The panel is available on Amazon.com for less than $20 shipped and weighed 3.3 ounces on my scale. While 10 watts is in the name, the specs do suggest more of an actual output after all is said and done of about 5 watts (a standard iPhone wall charger is 5 watts, for comparison). Inside the white plastic USB cover and hidden is a red LED that illuminates when the panel is exposed to enough light, but it’s hard to see in actual usage. Note that Lixada also offers a slightly lighter panel as well – however with reports of that particular panel warping in the sun, it not being available for Prime shipping, and the USB connector falling off, I opted for the panel reviewed here.
Frankly, at less than $20, I felt like I could take a chance on the panel at that price but had around 50% confidence that the panel would even arrive in any type of working condition. However, the panel immediately felt solid and a quick test in the sun and it began immediately charging my iPhone. The panel is very light, with rounded corners – and slightly flexible. The USB port appears to be glued on, and durability wise – just to be safe I always support the USB port by pinching with one hand when plugging in or unplugging a USB cable. Additionally – and since this is not a heavy duty unit, I like to gently unplug devices (I have unplugged USB devices in the past and part of the port comes out with the cable).

However, if you expect to simply strap this panel to the top of your pack and charge your phone as you hike all day, you will end up disappointed. Phones are picky about charging, and as soon as the solar panel is faced away from the sun, a cloud comes by, or you hike under a tree in the shade charging will stop and will not start again until you unplug and re-plug in your phone. Be aware that this is the case when stopped and charging as well – if you accidentally step in front of the panel or temporarily face it away from the sun charging will stop.
Performance
Some solar chargers on the market claim to have an auto-restart feature to help with this, but not so with the Lixada. As such, at least for phone charging, this panel is best at camp or on a lunch break. Other solar chargers I’ve tried charged at such a slow rate in this manner that I’d never think about taking them on a trip, however the Lixada will add about 40% charge to my iPhone SE (with around an 1800 mAh / 7 watt hour battery) per hour when angling the panel towards the sun and splitting the difference between where the sun is at in the sky and about where it will be in an hour. This is nearly equal to a standard wall charger rate. This rate holds true for me whether on a cloudless day or even through light cirrus clouds that might pass by. However, don’t expect to charge in the shade or on a cloudy day. Also note that charging may vary by how much your phone is charged (my tests were initiated at 40% phone charge), and also by any “optimized charge” settings you may have enabled on your phone to help with battery aging (check and adjust settings as desired).

Obviously, on a phone with a larger battery (search for the watt hours of your own device to extrapolate) this will take longer, but for me this type of performance is great. With light phone usage and leaving home fully charged, whether while enjoying a cup of coffee in the morning, during a lunch stop, or while setting up camp in the late afternoon, opportunities abound to add a boost to your charge.
If however, you’re more of a break camp before dawn and setup camp by way of headlamp type of hiker, this strategy may not work. One way around this is to hookup the panel to your pack – possibly with the help of micro carabiners, bungees, cordlocks, etc. if needed, and then plug the panel into a small lithium-ion power bank, which isn’t so picky about charging. This way, you can use the power bank to charge devices at night, repeating the process day after day as needed. Testing this strategy worked well with the Lixada, and with the panel attached to my pack in the most convenient way possible, but likely not the most efficient orientation for collecting light, I can add an average of 15% to a 2500 mAh power bank in an hour of hiking in perfect sunny conditions with no effort to point the panel at the sun, and that’s averaged between hiking in all directions (north, south, east, and west).
A 30 minute lunch break where I did leave the panel aimed directly at the sun added 18% of charge to this same power bank. Thus, over a full day, depending on conditions, this method will work and you could recharge devices at night. However, if you’ll be hiking under tree cover all day and / or the weather is not cooperating, you’ll be out of luck. Desert or alpine hiking will work best, and if you’re southbound you’ll get worse results, better if you’re hiking north (with the panel facing south all day).

The smallest and lightest power banks will likely give you about one full phone charge or so, and you can also hit the trail with the power bank already charged. However, this adds weight and complexity, and for me this panel shines in its light weight and simplicity – one panel, one cable and you may be good to go for under 4 ounces. Adding a power bank will add a minimum of 2-3 ounces, and at the point the panel may become less competitive, and depending on your particular situation it may just make more sense to pack a larger power bank at that point. Although, you will not have (somewhat) perpetual revolving power in that case. Lastly, it is more efficient to charge devices directly by way of the panel.
While phones are probably the most common device most people would want to recharge in the backcountry these days, nearly all devices worked for me, and most other devices will auto-restart charging on their own after being shaded. My camera with about a 1000 mAh battery (around 7 watt hours, which is a better figure to use since voltage between batteries can vary, making mAh non-apples to apples) will charge at a 30% per hour rate – and this is actually limited by the camera which limits charging to a .5 amp rate. In this case the panel is producing more power than the camera can take. If you have a USB headlamp – one could determine the watt hours of their battery and extrapolate, but my headlamp uses a single AA battery. I use a rechargeable AA Eneloop battery to run it – which allows me to leave home fully charged. However, the light I use doesn’t have a micro USB port and you must use a separate charger to charge the Eneloop battery. The lightest and most compact I’ve found is the Olight Magnetic Universal Charger at .75 ounces (unfortunately discontinued). This charger works with the panel, and (limited by the chargers rate) will fully charge an Eneloop, allowing me to keep my headlamp of choice but make it rechargeable in the field.

While this older inReach charged fine, a new inReach Mini had some issues.
Unfortunately, I did have issues with one device – an inReach Mini Satellite Communicator, which left me a bit befuddled compared the good performance I had charging nearly anything else. The inReach charged at a very slow rate – just a few percentage points per hour which is more trouble than it’s worth, at least if you’re sitting in camp. I tried everything I could think of – charging with the inReach on and off, connecting things in every which order possible, but still the inReach stubbornly would charge at a rate of just .2 watts. Adding to the confusion is that approximately 1 out of every 20 attempts or so, the inReach would connect and charge at a normal rate of 2+ watts. But it seemed totally random and I wasn’t able to determine any setting or process that would reliably get the device to charge at its full rate.
Testing on other chargers the Mini seems to select an odd charging rate – it wants to draw .4 amps under any circumstance. On the panel, it selects .04 amps. An older inReach, the inReach SE, charges fine. I’m wasn’t sure if this amp rate selection (which is slow, but the Mini has a small battery) caused the issue, or if the Mini was trying to initiate a data connection with the panel or some combination of the two. In an attempt to figure out the issue I tried a USB adapter that is designed to turn USB ports into charge-only ports and disables any type of data connection. In addition this adapter features a chip that tells the connected device it’s connected to a fast charger, in an attempt to get devices to charge faster from computer USB ports.

In any event, it sounded like it was worth a try as the device would take any data initiation attempts out of the equation, and also would modify (and in a way regulate) the USB output of the panel. While I had high hopes, no luck with two different brands of these adapters. Additionally, testing with an entirely new panel yielded the same results, with the moral of the story being to test any of these devices to make sure they’re compatible before heading out. One could of course, utilize the method of using the panel to charge a power bank and then the Mini, or alternatively leave the panel connected to the Mini while hiking all day – which may be enough to offset light usage, but not very confidently.
Accessories and Packing
The panel isn’t any good without a few additions however. First, you’ll need to pack a cable. If everything you want to charge uses micro USB, one cable and you’re set. However, as opposed to power banks where you could get away with the shortest (and lightest) cables available, for this panel a longer cable is best. This not only prevents excessive stress on the USB port of the panel, but allows you to position your device in the shade so it doesn’t overheat – I’ve found with careful placement and anticipation of the direction in which the shadow created by the panel itself will move works great. However, the standard cable length of 36” / 1 meter will work, but seems a bit excessive. You can save weight by going with a 1.5’ USB cable such as this one at Amazon. Note that any adapters you may use could create a power bottleneck, so it’s best to choose adapters that allow for fast charging. If you have an iPhone that charges via a lightning connection, you’ll either need to pack an extra cable, a micro USB to lighting adapter, or buy a 3 in one USB charging cable (or just pack the lightning cable if the iPhone is the only thing you want to charge).

I prefer to not take my chances with this panel in the rain. The panel fits perfectly in a gallon Ziploc, but you’ll still have to put it somewhere and the size and shape of the panel isn’t the easiest to find a spot for (without stressing the panel) in your pack. The panel fits well in an older Zpacks Slim dry bag that I had on hand – which keeps the rain out, and the clip lets me clip this anywhere on the outside of my pack. This marks the first time I can ever recall using something to store a product in where the case / bag / packing solution costs more than the product it will protect. All said and done for me the panel, dry bag, cable, a lightning adapter, USB AA charger, plus a Ziploc for the cables tips the scale at 5.65 ounces. Fairly light as it is, but if your headlamp has a micro USB charging port my .75 ounce USB AA charger can be left out along with the lightning adapter if your phone charges via micro USB (subtract .9 ounces total). A gallon Ziploc instead of the dry bag will take off about another half-ounce. Making things even lighter for me, I can leave out a 1.5 ounce spare camera battery or two, potentially making the total additional weight packed only around 2 to 3 ounces.

With the Lixada solar panel you have the ability to build out an ultralight backcountry charging solution.
In Conclusion
Overall, while it won’t charge your devices at a 10 watt clip (the most I’ve ever seen is 4.47 watts of output), the Lixada 10 Watt solar panel does work for many devices, but not all, that are most often carried into the backcountry. Is it worth packing? Maybe. All of these devices already can last for extended trips with prudent usage, and for me there’s something to be said for self-limiting your electronic usage on the trail, limiting the devices you take, and not taking any recharging solution whatsoever. And if it doesn’t work well with your own devices, you’ll have to either add weight to the system by way of a power bank, or just go easy on that device. Additionally, for some a (larger) power bank charged at home may offer less fuss on the trail. However, for longer trips and for those that would prefer a recharging solution that won’t ever run out of charge so long as the sun is out, the Lixada USB Solar Panel is an option and about as ultralight of a charging option as you can get – so long as it’s compatible with your device, of course.
You can find the Lixada USB solar panel here at Amazon.com. For additional reading in the ultralight backpacking solar panel category see our Solarpad Pro solar panel review as well as our PowerFilm USB+AA solar panel review.
Editor's Note: This review originally appeared in Issue 50 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for more photos, pros and cons, and our star rating of the Lixada ultralight solar panel.

No matter the lengths we may go to in order to find a great campsite, when it comes to the flat and level part of the selection process I can think of only a few occasions when a chosen spot for the night was truly perfect in this regard. Most of the time in the backcountry, instead of finding a spot that is perfectly flat and level, you’ll likely end up finding one that’s flat and level enough. When you combine these types of sites with a slippery tent floor and especially when combined with slippery ultralight inflatable sleeping pads, you can be in for a night of spending nearly as much time re-arranging your setup inside your tent as you spend sleeping due to your sleeping pad continually sliding downhill.

With a little work and / or some extra gear, you can greatly reduce any sleeping pad movement throughout the night.
How to Keep Your Sleeping Pad from Sliding
To combat the problem there a couple different approaches that can be taken. The first is to simply apply a silicone treatment to your tent floor using a product like Seam Grip SIL seam sealer. This is especially helpful on silnylon tent floors, and can be done the same day that you seal the seams on a new tent. For the anti-slip treatment, just utilize the brush included in the seam sealer package to add a pattern of dots, stripes, or any design you wish – you can get creative – on the floor of your tent.
Make sure you let the solution cure fully before packing your tent, and you now have a grippy surface on your tent floor that will hold on to the bottom of your sleeping pad for years to come. Alternatively, you can also apply this pattern to the bottom of your sleeping pad (or both if you need the most grip). For a more aggressive approach and especially if you have a Dyneema Composite Fabric tent, you can check out the sleeping pad slide stoppers from Zpacks.
Another way to combat the issue, although it will add more weight to your pack than the previous methods, is to bring along a closed cell foam pad in addition to your inflatable. The foam pad provides a grippy surface all on its own to stop your pad from sliding, and also has the secondary benefits of protecting your inflatable while boosting the r-value and warmth of your sleep system as well. If desired, these can easily be cut down to a torso-length size to save some pack weight. You can find a wide selection of CCF pads here at REI Co-op, and ULA Equipment offers an ultralight option in their Siesta foam pad.
Final Thoughts
No matter which route you choose to take or in whatever combination, these techniques can help you stop the sliding struggle and will help you stay in place throughout the night on all but the most un-level backcountry campsites.
Editor's Note: This backpacking trail tip originally appeared in Issue 41 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

The down socks offered by GooseFeet Gear are essentially a max warmth at a minimum weight solution for keeping your feet warm at night – or in and around your campsite with optional overboots. Each pair of the socks / booties are made to order with your choice of lightweight fabrics and colors both inside and out, choice on the amount of down fill (850 fill power water-resistant down is used), and of course the size. Zpacks also offers the socks without a fabric or color choice.
Construction Details and Performance
Simple elastic secures the socks and seals in the heat around your ankles. I normally wear around a size 12.5 men’s shoe when backpacking, and found the GooseFeet size large socks to be perfect; loose enough so that they seem to fully loft and they stay on just fine, and the socks are available in 6 sizes. Various fabric weights are available, and my pair ordered with +50% down and made with Pertex Quantum weigh just 2.6 ounces for both (the grey pair shown in this review). A small stuff sack is included, but I just throw them inside my sleeping bag and pack it away all as one.

The GooseFeet socks don’t have any type of durable sole, so if you’re looking to walk around camp GooseFeet also offers a pair of waterproof overboots, complete with a removable foam insert to cushion your feet and with an optional Toughtek sole, all of course at incremental weight penalties. As such, my preference is to only use these socks by themselves in a tent and while I sleep, with my loosely laced trail running shoes in the vestibule making for great camp shoes in the case that I need to run to my Ursack to return that overlooked energy bar forgotten in an unchecked pocket before turning in for the night (combine with plastic bags if said shoes are wet).

The socks are a simple solution that’s perfect if you’re looking to boost the warmth of your sleeping system or if you want to essentially scratch cold feet off the list of things that might keep you up at night…while adding a dose of luxury to any trip – they also make a great gift for that cold-natured hiking partner that’s always keeping you up at night, I’ve found as well! I’ve most appreciated the GooseFeet solution on those particularly rough trail days – perhaps a chilly day trekking through mud and rain in cold, borderline freezing weather that puts your rain gear through its paces and may test not only your physical, but your mental resolve. Arriving at camp running warm from effort – warmth that quickly fades as the hiking stops – nothing beats taking off your soaked rain gear and switching from those muddy, soggy, cold shoes to a dry tent, a warm sleeping bag, and dry socks. For 3 season hiking and backpacking I’m usually wearing Darn Tough Light Hiker socks – excellent socks but not overly warm by design…at least when compared to something like down. Adding a pair of GooseFeet socks to the equation just takes it one step farther. And of course, they’re great for winter and really cold trips.

Elastic around the ankle serves to seal in warmth and keeps things simple (no drawstrings, etc. are needed).
Conclusion
With these down socks / booties from GooseFeet I’ve essentially been able to eliminate cold feet from my backcountry sleep system equation (hopefully you can tell by the photos that the loft of these with some overfill is basically off the charts), and add versatility almost in the form of down overfill in the footbox of my sleeping bag – but that I can remove. Just like a warmer down jacket, warmer baselayer, or an extra foam pad, I can still leave the down socks behind if I so choose for those warmer forecasts.

Combined with a few other choice items, I’ve found the GooseFeet Gear down socks to be a nice component in a group of items that I can add to my pack to add warmth or leave behind depending on the trip at hand. A pair of GooseFeet Gear down socks start around $70 before any options. Take a look at GooseFeet Gear and here at Zpacks.com.

Every backpacker should have a slightly miserable trek just once in their life. Nothing extreme – just one with a bit of good-old fashioned discomfort. Maybe a rock under a sleeping bag, or a slightly damp boot during a section of a hike – it’s during those moments of less than easy explorations that the true value of the little amenities becomes evident, and much more appreciated. The small bits taken for granted on daily basis are sincerely cherished on the trail. That being said, there is no reason that trekking should equate to trudging. Just as a few discomforts can change perspective; it rings equally true of comforts on the trail.

A few extra lightweight luxuries can make an incredible and positive difference in your backpacking experience! While not essential, these optional extras are easy ways to pack a bit of added comfort into the backcountry.
Camp Shoes
Hiking boots and trail runners are great for their purpose, but sometimes not the best bet for comfort at the end of the day. Any hiker who has experienced the blissful feeling of removing a well-used boot knows the almost unintentional groan of satisfaction that accompanies the action. While it’s perfectly reasonable and effective to rely solely on the shoes you hike in, bringing a light weight set of slippers or sandals to wear around camp provides freedom for your feet. Crocs are a light, durable option, but any kind of easy to slip in to model works – even foam sandals from the drug store work great. Zpacks offers an ultralight camp shoe option, and the foam Croc option has been a traditional standard. Strapped on to the outside of a pack, they are a light and easy addition. They’re particularly appreciated if your hiking footwear gets wet during a hike.
A High Temperature Water Bottle
Everyone has their favorite bottle, and the market abounds with options. While the main purpose may be to hold water for drinking, a durable, well-shaped bottle can be an added element to comfort as well. One of the best things about a bottle tolerant of high temperatures is its ability to hold boiling water. On colder nights, and with enough fuel to spare, fill one with boiled water, crawl into your sleeping bag, and snuggle up with your bottle buddy – no more fro-toes (frozen toes). Insulated by your bag, a dependable bottle will stay hot for hours.

An added bonus – in the morning, you have pre-boiled and warmer ready to drink water! The Nalgene water bottle has long been a forerunner in the bottle race and even with admirable competition, and its size and functionality are proven components to its success. If the wide mouth seems bothersome, ones with smaller mouths are available, as well as attachable guards which funnel the water to a smaller opening.
A Salty-Sweet Treat
Of course there’s the classic GORP, but if you’ve ever coveted a 5-dollar candy bar, take this as your excuse to splurge on your lust. Go for that one that contains maple encrusted bacon, or caramelized pecans, or elven magic – whatever ingredients really make you salivate. On a recent trek, a hiker brought a salted toffee dark chocolate bar and for nearly two hours – and then sporadically throughout the rest of the trip – we found ways to discuss its epicness. Whether it comes in the form of chocolate or some other kind of special treat, the salty-sweet combination is oh so appreciated, and oh so much more delicious after a 6 hour hike.
A Backcountry Café
Coffee in the morning hours just makes everyone friendlier. Melitta or similar cone-shaped coffee makers are lightweight and simple to use. Pack one up with a pre-measured ration of ground coffee, and as many filters as needed. If space is an issue, there are traveling editions made of soft, flexible plastic for more compact traveling.

If coffee’s not your thing, hot chocolate or tea bags are light and welcome warmers. Bring along some dried creamer and a bit of sugar, and you could practically label your camp an experimental micro-café.
A Pen and Paper / A Notebook
There are always practical uses to bringing paper on the trail, but in this particular pull for its inclusion, the entertainment value is the tout: Games, writing, and drawing to name a just few possibilities. Do you sketch for fun? No? Well, with a few hours lounging at camp, now’s the time. It’s fun!

Same with poetry, writing or a poorly played hangman. You never know, though, maybe those jotted sentences or thoughts will be the first lines to your great literary masterpiece.
Spices
Ah spices. If hard pressed, spices might rank as the most appreciated extra when backpacking or camping. While the main priority of food is to provide the necessary energy and balance of nutrients, having it taste good is a highly valued bonus! Spices are the easiest way to pump up the flavor profiles – salt alone makes a huge difference.

The possibilities here are endless: cinnamon, pepper, pesto powder, ground ginger, and so many more. Being so light, having variety doesn’t mean weighing you down. Just be sure to label that sugar clearly from that salt. Even in the surrounded by beautiful wilderness, that accidental switcheroo is no fun. Find more on packing backpacking spices here.
A Riddle
This one could be a freebie! Playing cards and similar packable outdoor games are great for the campsite, but while hiking, riddles can be fun forms of entertainment when the trek feels a bit more like a trudge. Though every hiker wishes they could say they hike in constant awe of nature, but there are always those more monotonous stretches, after other conversation has been exhausted, when you simply want to take your mind off your tired feet. Having a go-to riddle is an easy way to provide some distraction, and packing up a few for longer treks can continue to fuel the fun factor. And obviously, the only added weight is your brain mass. Don’t leave it behind.
A Change of Clothes in the Car
Returning to the parked car after a decently long backpacking trip, to realize you have a nice clean wardrobe change in the car will never become old. Nothing fancy, but a pair of sweatpants and a fresh smelling shirt are always well-received – particularly if the ride home from the trailhead is longer than 30 minutes. It’s a secret to be shared: the value of cleanliness to a weary traveler.

Packing light can be paramount for longer treks, but even with all these additions, you won’t weigh down your pack. The delight experienced from these small comforts will feel far, far greater than the ½ pound or so you might cumulatively add. So go, frolic, explore and adventure – but no harm in bringing a bit of cozy to that backcountry.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 8 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

There’s more than one way to hang a food bag – but after trying a few, I’ve come to rely on the using the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) method. The PCT method balances simplicity, speed, and effectiveness. Rather than simply tying one end of your throw line onto a nearby tree, where a bear or another hungry forest dweller could attempt to chew through the line, break the line, or cause other forms of disorder, PCT style hanging eliminates that point of failure in a quick and easy way.

The PCT method requires a minimal amount of equipment and once you know the steps, it isn't too difficult to perform.
Equipment
Food bag. Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil dry bags or a Dyneema dry bag are among the lightest options. Throw line. I’ve settled on 60 feet of DynaGlide throw line with a small bowline knot tied into one end. Throw bag – a stake bag works great. Small carabiner of choice. Find a selection at REI Co-op and Zpacks offers this ultralight option. A rock or two and a short stick located at the hang site Optional: 12x20" OPSak liner bag for additional containment of smellables Zpacks offers a bear bagging kit containing many of these components.
While you can perform a PCT style hang with just about any bag or stuff sack, a roll-top dry bag offers the best weather protection and makes things easy.
How to Hang Your Food Using the PCT Method
Locate a suitable limb for hanging. Not so strong that a bear can climb out onto it and get your food, but not so small that they can easily just break the branch. Far enough out from the trunk of the tree, and high enough up that they can’t simply reach out from the trunk of the tree or up from the ground and grab your food bag. Once you’ve found the right branch, locate a small stick a few inches long, the smoother the better. Hold onto this for now.
Place a rock or two in your throw bag to give it some weight, and using your carabiner, link the throw bag to a loop in the throwline (you can leave the carabiner permanently attached to the line).
Keeping your foot on the opposite end of the line so it doesn’t fly away, throw your bag over the branch. An underhand swing is easiest, but sometimes an overhand baseball style throw can provide more accuracy. Lower the weighted bag to the ground with the line over the branch.

Tying the clove hitch
Unclip the carabiner from the throw bag and attach it to your food bag. Feed the loose tag end of your throw line through the carabiner and hoist the bag up to the tree branch. Reaching up as high as possible, grab the free end of the line and tie the stick in with a quick clove hitch. An easy way to tie the knot is to simply form two loops with the tag end running under the standing part of the line, then place the right side loop on top of the left side loop. When the stick is inserted and the line tightened, the knot will form.

Once your "stopper" is tied in, you can lower the bag back down a bit until it contacts the carabiner to hold the bag at height.
Lower the food bag down – When the stick comes into contact with the carabiner, it will act as a stopper and your food bag has been hung (to retrieve the bag later, pull the free end of the line down again and remove / break the stick). Now that everything is hung, you remembered to put those snacks that were in your pocket in the now hung food bag, right? A mistake I've been guilty of on more than one occasion.

PCT hang in progress
In Conclusion
While these days I prefer the convenience of taking an Ursack bear bag to save time in the evenings, there are trips where the trip length and / or group size exceeds the amount of Ursacks I own and I still utilize the PCT method to hang extra food at the start of a trip. If you find yourself in a similar situation, or if you're looking to go as ultralight as possible, when properly used the PCT method is worth having in your backcountry skills repertoire.
Editor's Note: This trail tip originally appeared in Issue 9 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos.