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Performing a few simple yet vital tasks, our choice of a backpacking pot is one item that the rest of our cooking gear will frequently revolve around, especially if you like to pack your entire cooking kit inside your pot. A backpacking pot serves as a vessel in which we can prepare our backcountry meals and heat or even sanitize water if needed – and despite being such a simple item it is not one easily replaced.
In fact, if one were only allowed to take a few items of gear into the backcountry a good pot would be near the top of one’s list. This article will cover basics on backpacking cookware selection while focusing on the main player in this department – the backpacking pot – as we’ve already covered mug selection and backpacking utensils at the aforementioned links.

An assortment of titanium backpacking cookware
Backpacking Pot Capacity
With options out there in nearly every shape and size, the first step in narrowing down our cookware selection process is choosing the right capacity. In this regard we want to go with the smallest backpacking cook pot that will adequately cover our cooking needs, since weight increases with capacity. For solo use, pots or mug / pot combos in the range of 600-900ml are usually ideal for weight conscious backpackers. Sizes on the low end of this range will serve one well when it comes to boiling water for a freeze dried meal or for freezer bag style cooking, but if you like to cook simple meals in your pot, larger options are suggested.
In these sizes many options will be of the mug / pot combo variety, like the Toaks 750 or the MLD 850. These choices, while often being on the large side for a mug and on the small side for a pot, can save some weight and keep your camp kitchen simple by having only one vessel, whether it’s needed for morning coffee or meal preparation. In many cases and if you so chose (and get the sizing right), you could potentially even fit a fuel canister inside your mug / pot combo for packing, ending up with a very compact camp kitchen setup. For more involved meals it may pay to go with a larger, dedicated cook pot however along with a smaller dedicated mug.

The Toaks 550 cup / mug / pot combo in titanium
For groups of 2 or more however it will be time to move to a dedicated mug for each person, but a single pot can still be shared if desired. Here it pays to increase capacity as we’ll be boiling more water at once and having a pot that can handle this capacity will increase efficiency. Generally, unless appetites are limited and you plan to split single meals, moving into the 1000ml / 1liter + capacity range is needed, and it’s nice to have a little buffer to lessen the chance of spilling or boiling over. For 2 person trips the Evernew 1.3 liter pot has been about right for me, not only for basic meal preparation but this 1.25-1.5 liter range works very well for a wider range of cooking needs, from boiling water for 2 freeze dried meals, to cooking up a pasta dish right in the pot, or for comfortably heating water for an entire Nalgene.
For larger groups you will simply increase the capacity from here, although you can use your normal 2 person pot with multiple boils for the occasional group trip if needed. This won’t be convenient for meals that are made in your pot, but can work for boiling water to go around for meals that just need hot water. At some point however it may pay to take separate cooking gear for speed, convenience, and for requiring less group coordination – and large pots are difficult to pack.
Additionally, larger pots may also be too unstable, or too heavy when filled, to work with your stove of choice – suggested maximum pot sizes can often be found in your stove user manual. Solo or in a group, one situation where you will want to step up in capacity is if you’ll be going winter backpacking and melting snow for water – with low water content in snow it can take a lot of snow melting to get those water bottles filled.

The Evernew 900 titanium pot is a good size for 2 people that need to boil water for freeze-dried meals.
Backpacking Pots & Camp Cookware Features
Once you’ve decided upon the right capacity, there are a few other features to look for in the cookware department. One of the most important is shape. If you’re going solo and choose a pot / mug combo option, your pot will probably end up looking like a large mug. However, when choosing a dedicated pot something shallower and wider is desirable over a skinny and tall form factor and the wider pot will be able to use more heat from your stove and increase your fuel efficiency on the trail.
A nice tight fitting lid is essential for further fuel efficiency, as are ways to “handle” your pot. Look for collapsible handles, and if the handles feature an outer insulating material (often for lifting the lid as well) this can be helpful while adding minimal weight. However, ultralight cookware will often omit this feature to save weight, and in this case you can still handle the pot with a pot holder (bandanna, etc.) and / or by always making sure to configure your handles upwind.
If you’ll be cooking more complex meals in your pot quite often a non-stick coating can be helpful, but may have health considerations or concerns for some, will add weight, and can scratch if the proper utensils or cleaning methods are not used. The ability to perform cooking tasks such as dry baking would also be limited. Additional features to look for include measurement marks stamped right on the pot to make meal preparation easier, and a built in pour spout is a nice to have for spill reduction when you’ll be transferring hot water to another vessel. This could be the case when heating up water for a Nalgene bottle to make a shoulder season heater for example.

A pour spout can make all the difference when adding water to freeze dried or freezer bag meals.
Cookware Materials
While exceptions exist, most of the time for backpacking purposes we’ll be deciding between two materials – aluminum and titanium. Titanium will be the most expensive option, but is very light and strong, allowing pots constructed of this material to be of a very thin gauge. And while debatable, if aluminum cookware poses a health concern / consideration to you, titanium would be the way to go.
For actual cooking, with its thin gauge construction and tendency to develop hotspots, titanium can be challenging, but not impossible to use if you’ll be performing more complex trail cooking tasks in the pot like trying to bake a trail pizza, simmering, or when cooking less watery meals where burning is more likely to occur than with aluminum pots. Stainless steel pots can be found (such as the MSR Alpine series), however a stainless steel pot will be most ideal in a base camp or car camping type scenario.

An aluminum pot will conduct heat across the pot surface more evenly and distribute the heat better, while still being pretty light, and cheaper. In the end the best material to choose comes down to budget and personal preference / style. If you're car camping you might as well just take the traditional heavy stainless steel cook set or the cast iron cookware from the kitchen cabinet, but for backpacking purposes it's best to stick with lightweight aluminum or titanium pots.
Optional Items
Once you’ve settled on a pot, a mug (or pot that can also be used in this regard), and your utensil of choice about the only thing left to consider might be a plate or bowl of some type. If you’re making freeze dried meals no plate will be needed as you’ll be eating right out of the bag, and if you’re solo eating out of the pot or eating freezer bag style will certainly save you the weight and extra cleanup of bringing a dedicated solution here. Lids of larger pots can be used, and mugs can perform double duty, but if a dedicated plate or bowl is still needed various solutions like the popular Fozzils Bowls are worth a look, and other options include this Snow Peak titanium option. This category is a bit of a luxury however, so it pays to go as light as you can or accomplish this task with your other cookware if possible and if weight is a concern.

For the solo backpacker, pot / mug combos can work well.
Conclusion
Whether you end up with an ultralight titanium mug / pot combo for the lightest trail weight or the slightly heavier anodized aluminum pot sure to be great the next time you need to sauté a side dish in camp, much like a good down sleeping bag outdoor cookware is one area where it does makes sense to invest. Of all the things I pack on backpacking trips and while a lot of gear changes over time, I still often pack the same titanium pot and mug that I’ve been using for over a decade.
For a list of backpacking cookware that you can sort and filter by many of the options we’ve discussed above, take a look at this page at REI.

Both a prerequisite for the enjoyment of any day hike and critical for the success of any extended backpacking trip, our choice of a hiking shoe or boot is one of the most important gear related choices to make and dial in prior to any outdoor excursion. Not only does the best hiking boot or shoe depend on fit and our own individual preference, but the best options will also vary widely by season – although many options can also be workable across more than one season, or even with a few caveats year round.

A selection of lightweight, breathable trail running shoes. Most hiking shoes should last you at least 500+ miles, more for hiking boots.
Footwear for Early Spring and Late Fall
Characterized by cool to temperate weather conditions with moisture being frequently encountered from many angles including precipitation, light snow, river crossings, and just overall soggy or muddy conditions (i.e. “mudseason”), feet will likely stay pretty warm on their own – as long as they’re dry. Thus a waterproof / breathable option (Gore-Tex, eVent, proprietary membrane) can be very suitable for these conditions and shoes with these technologies are offered in a wide array of styles.
Water resistant trail running shoes, like the Altra Lone Peak waterproof line can be one way to go if you prefer a trail running shoe, or for conditions where you’ll be moving fast (including trail running) and only light moisture may be encountered. Alternatively another option to take a look at would be the Salomon X Ultra line (view at REI), which is offered in low and mid-height versions using Gore-Tex (also offered in non-waterproof versions for milder weather).

Many of the best hiking boots will feature a Gore-Tex waterproof breathable lining.
Slick conditions will frequently be encountered, and snowy conditions are par for the course in mountainous areas from remaining winter snow in the spring and new snow as winter approaches in the fall. Thus a little ankle support from a mid-height boot can offer some reassurance...which will also help further to keep snow and mud out. And admittedly on any soggy backpacking trip with a waterproof / breathable shoe, it’s always nice to hike through the mud all day and still have clean feet at the end of the day when it’s time to crawl in the sleeping bag.
Some hikers who, like myself, prefer to hike in trail runners whenever possible do have success pushing trail runners into these seasons and cool to cold, wet conditions by adding waterproof breathable socks, and while this technique has worked for me in the past, at some point I simply find it more comfortable to bite the bullet and wear hiking boots of the waterproof variety when I head out in these conditions.
Summer Hiking / Backpacking Shoes
With hot and mostly dry hiking, except perhaps for the occasional water crossing or summer rainstorm, summer is ruled by footwear of the non-waterproof and very breathable variety. Trail running shoes vs. boots is up to you and your preference for mobility and light weight vs. ankle support and protection, as well as pack weight, but in these conditions a breathable shoe will keep your feet more comfortable throughout the day, increase comfort and reduce the likelihood of blisters and hotspots, and dry faster overnight.

While our shoes or boots may get wet from the occasional water crossing or rainy day…once things dry up and with warm to hot temperatures, the simple act of hiking dries the shoe as we go along during the day. In contrast a traditional hiking shoe made from leather and / or utilizing waterproofing layers will hold sweat or outside moisture in, and in rather miserable fashion sometimes day after day while backpacking. Usually summer is also the time where our higher mileage backpacking trips are planned, and staying light on your feet helps greatly in this regard. Popular lightweight options include trail runners such as the Altra Lone Peak and the Brooks Cascadia, and for a boot option the non-waterproof version Merrel Moab Mids can frequently be seen on the trail.
Best Winter Footwear Options
True winter hiking and backpacking are where things start to get specialized, keeping feet dry and warm is key, and keeping your feet dry doesn’t mean your feet will necessarily be warm at this stage. Here we know we’ll be encountering deep snow, and waterproof mid-height to higher winter boot options will be sufficient at keeping snow out as long they are compatible with another key piece of winter gear – your gaiter choice – and for cold conditions two things can be helpful: a vapor barrier liner and going with an insulated boot.
Insulated boots are typically insulated with Thinsulate, proprietary insulation, or even space age type materials like Aerogel, and are typically rated by a temperature rating (usually quite generous), and / or an insulation weight spec such as 200 gram, 400 gram, etc., but in all regards the addition of insulation moves this option into a quite specialized category. Even in these conditions, I prefer to avoid a traditional hiking boot with extensive full grain leather, etc. – these boots are often too heavy and considering the leather combined with waterproof membranes, lack breathability.

A 200 gram insulated waterproof breathable boot for backpacking. Many hiking boots will feature a gaiter ring or attachment point towards the toe.
Preferences will vary, but generally in cold conditions the more sedentary you’ll be the more insulation you’ll need – if you are a wildlife photographer or heading in for a day of icefishing, you will probably want the heaviest insulated boot you can get, or you may need to go with a specialized option for something like backcountry ski touring or mountaineering.
For lightweight hiking, backpacking, and snowshoeing purposes however, I’ve found 200-400 gram insulated boots to be perfect for higher output hiking and snowshoeing activities , but as part of a footwear solution. This involves adding in a VBL, gaiters, and a warmer sock solution while making sure the boot is sufficiently sized to accommodate good circulation and the additional gear. Either way, in these bitter cold conditions, test your setup on day hikes first, test both on the move and not, and adjust as needed.
The Lightweight Big 3
Over time I’ve found that for the great majority of year-round backpacking and hiking purposes, having 3 types of footwear options on hand can handle almost any condition very well. A lightweight, breathable trail running shoe is my go-to option from mid to late spring through early to mid fall and for anything from the easiest day hike to the longest backpacking trip. In fact, I find I lace these up as soon as I can in spring and hold out as far as I can into the fall; the light weight combined with the breathability and quick dry times make these a comfortable option for the majority of the hiking season and for backpacking with a reasonably lightweight pack.

For cooler springtime and fall conditions, stepping up to a mid-height, waterproof / breathable hiking boot adds warmth, keeps your feet dry during these times when additional moisture will be encountered and dry times are increased anyway, and the extra height provides a little ankle support on slick, uneven terrain (you can't always tell where your foot will end up in snow), and will help to keep light snow out.
For true winter conditions, a lightweight, insulated winter hiking boot will be well appreciated as temperatures fall into the teens and further to below 0 temperatures. A 200-400 gram insulated boot (depending on activity level) has worked well for me even in extreme cold, and in these true winter conditions I always utilize a VBL and gaiters, providing additional warmth and keeping the interior of the boot dry. If you’ll however, be sitting around a lot, or opt to skip the VBL on day hikes, you will want to swing your choice towards boots of the heavier insulated variety. Keeping the rest of your body dry and warm is also critical in this type of weather (and goes a long way towards keeping your feet warm as well) – but that’s another article.
From trail runners all the way to winter boots, out of the box fit is just one part of the equation. While most of the shoe comfort will be built into the shoe, you can also customize fit and performance using a few lacing techniques that can help take a good shoe to great. For more on lacing take a look at our lacing tips guide which offers a few techniques to help customize your fit.
One Footwear Option to Rule Them All?
With all the previously discussed options in mind, without a doubt hiking shoes are not only a personal choice, but they are for the most part, specifically suited for individual situations. But what if you want one hiking or backpacking shoe that would work well across many, if not most seasons and conditions?
While I’m a big lightweight trail running shoe fan anytime I can possibly get away with wearing them – if I had to pick only one shoe for all conditions, and as much as I might grit my teeth on summer hikes or even stay home when temps fell below 0, I would have to choose a venerable mid-height, waterproof breathable lightweight hiking boot for these conditions.
The mid-height waterproof / breathable boot is perfect for shoulder seasons and in light snow, and provides sufficient warmth in these cool, but not cold conditions while keeping feet mostly dry. These boots are a bit too hot for me for summer hiking, but with a few changes of socks are totally workable for warm, but not too hot, mountain hiking. While an uninsulated boot will be too cold for true winter hiking, they can be used for quite cold temps combined with a liner sock, a VBL setup, and another warmer sock as long as the boot is sized appropriately. Combined with gaiters, this setup will be appropriate for many warmer winter hiking conditions.

The lightweight waterproof breathable mid-height boot is an extremely versatile option across the seasons.
Conclusion
As we've detailed, the best hiking shoes vary by season, terrain, weather, and your personal preferences. Just like the usefulness and performance of an otherwise nice vehicle can be compromised by a set of cheap tires, keeping the right hiking treads on your feet will ensure you’ll be able to make the most out of any hiking and backpacking trip – and if you take care of your feet in the outdoors, they’re sure to take care of you. No matter the solution you choose to go with, fit is of course as important as design, and once you’ve dialed in your own outdoor footwear system – be it a collection of shoes and boots perfect for each season and scenario or an option or two that’s workable across many, all we have to do is lace up and hike.
For a list of hiking / backpacking shoe and boot choices, including everything from trail runners to winter boots and beyond that can be sorted and filtered by the options discussed above, check out this page at REI.

I hear the wind approaching as it moves up the ridge. No other sound breaks the night's long silence, not even the rustle of a possum in the undergrowth. It is early autumn in a year of drought; perhaps the lack of water at this elevation keeps the critters away, which suits me fine. We took care to hang the bear bag high off the ground, regardless. Why tempt fate?
I drift off, awakening later to an unmistakable sound a few feet away. Zzip! Opens the tent. Zzip! Closes the tent. It is Mary, up and around in the darkness. Without looking at my watch I know it is morning, but I am in no hurry. My sleep was restless, as it often is the first night or two on the trail. I listen to the activity and stay warm in the cocoon of my sleeping bag. Soon I hear Deb getting up and decide I had better move. Day is breaking.

A backpacking campsite along the Ouachita Trail
Soon we are back on the trail. Eight more miles today to finish this segment. Back home in the flatlands, that distance would take about 30 minutes for a cyclist, less than 90 minutes for an average runner, two to three hours for a brisk walker. For us, it will take a good half-day with fully loaded packs, here on the rugged terrain of the Ouachita Trail.
Section Hiking the Ouachita Trail
We are hiking the trail a section at a time. Its 223-mile length is divided into 10 segments, each easily hiked in a weekend. A long weekend, for those of us driving from Central Oklahoma to the southeastern part of the state to enjoy the remoteness and beauty of this National Recreation Trail. The “OT” begins at Talimena State Park, just outside Talihina, and stretches eastward into Arkansas through the Ouachita Mountains, the highest peaks from the Rockies to the Appalachians, topping out at 2,753 feet.

Unlike its big brother in the Appalachians, traffic on the OT is light. Begin a section alone and you may well complete it without seeing another hiker. I cling to this feeling of being “in the wild.” The wildness is, of course, only relative, but it feeds a yearning in me. As a youth I explored the woods and ponds on the outskirts of my home town, defying frequent warnings of snakes and ticks. It was what I knew, and I made the most of it. My best friend and I would clamber over gates and squeeze between barbed wire, exploring the countryside.
Cowpaths, oil roads, and an abandoned railway bed were our trails, when we weren’t bushwhacking (not that we knew that word). Stumbling upon a pumpjack or the remains of some old building excited our imaginations, and occasionally we found “treasures” in our explorations. Digging around in a pile of refuse near the railroad we retrieved vintage medicine bottles still in good condition; I have them to this day, displayed on my bookshelf, bearing witness to the truth of the adage, “One man’s trash . . . .” A creek trickling over the graduated layers of an abandoned rock quarry substituted for the waterfalls and lush, fern-filled streams I studied in my grandfather’s National Geographic and on the cover of my favorite three-ring school binder.

Decades later, I have visited more beautiful places than I can recall, close to home and continents away. But rather than quelling the longing to be out in nature, time and experience seem to make it deeper, more urgent. Am I more keenly aware of the gift of God’s creation? Or of my own mortality? Assuredly, the pause it forces in a frenzied life cannot be discounted.
Whatever its origin, this calling to be outside won’t leave me alone, and I am thankful that “my own backyard” provides an easy outlet. I can leave my home in the middle of Oklahoma early in the morning and be on the OT by mid-day. There, my mind is washed clean, attention only rarely drifting to anything beyond the journey. Intruding thoughts of responsibility are easily set aside in the sufficiency of the present. I am content to walk, talking with companions or hanging back to enjoy a solitary experience...watching the trail ahead for the next landmark, keeping an eye on the surface as I pick my way over rocks and roots, digging in with my hiking poles as I climb a steep slope, or stopping at a vista to absorb the long view over the mountains. I notice the forest change from hardwoods to pines as I move from the north side of the ridge to the south. Ferns and wildflowers appear where there is moisture, and I watch for the coy Mayapple and delicate Dwarf Crested Iris in the spring of the year.

After miles of rocky trail, something as simple as a wide, level stretch with a soft covering of leaves or pine needles becomes a special treat for the feet, and a moss-covered path through a “wizard tree” grove seems magical. Then traversing the granite shards of a “rock glacier” is a welcome challenge.
Occasionally the trail reveals an old road trace or sighting of an abandoned homestead. I see a lone chimney or the remnants of a stone wall and wonder, “Why here?” pondering what happened to the families who tried to scratch out a living in these rugged hills, now a land set aside for the pleasure of city folk who want to carry their stuff around on their backs for 20 or so miles and then go back to their leisure. Like me.

The sun is warm on the back of my neck as we ascend another switchback, leaning heavily on our hiking poles. A walking stick drops on my arm, and I hurry to brush him off. These insects may be harmless but I find them distinctly unpleasant. Poison ivy lines the trail and will no doubt leave its itchy legacy. We are just at the cusp of hiking season, still a bit too early in the fall, so undergrowth and insects are part of the experience. Water is getting low and I am thankful we cached at Horsethief Springs. It is not far now, and I look forward to taking off my pack, knowing the rest is well earned.

A faint Ouachita Trail winds its way through a wooded section of our route.
Another Ouachita Trail Backpacking Trip Comes to an End
Reaching the end of the trail is bittersweet. The satisfaction of completing another section is tempered by the knowledge that other obligations and adventures will delay my return. But while I am gone the Ouachitas will remain, the mountains unchanging in any span of time that I can perceive and the forest continually renewing itself in a timeless cycle.
Need to Know
Information
The Ouachita Trail is primarily within the Ouachita National Forest and is administered by the US Forest Service. It traverses the Flatside Wilderness, the Upper Kiamichi Wilderness and several wildlife management areas. Camping is allowed anywhere along the trail, except near Queen Wilhelmina State Park and the last 30 miles on the eastern end. No permits are needed to hike or camp. Five campgrounds are located along the Ouachita Trail: Talimena State Park, Winding Stair, Queen Wilhelmina State Park, Big Brushy and Lake Sylvia. Shelters are located along the middle stretch of the trail, with new ones under construction on the western end.
Best Time to Go
Late fall, winter and early spring are typically best for cooler temperatures, minimal undergrowth and insects, fall colors and spring wildflowers.
Getting There
The western trailhead is at Talimena State Park near Talihina, Oklahoma, 142 miles southeast of Tulsa. The eastern terminus of the trail is near Little Rock, Arkansas. Multiple access points exist along the length of the trail.
Maps
You can find maps for the Ouachita Trail here at Amazon.com.
Books
Ouachita Trail Guide, Tim Ernst.
About the Author
Susan Dragoo is a writer and photographer living in Norman, Oklahoma who would rather be hiking just about any day of the year.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 10 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

When it comes to outdoor recreation, Algonquin Provincial Park in Ontario, Canada is known mostly for its interconnecting canoe routes and park maintained portages. While not its most popular pastime, those on foot will find a hidden gem of a trail system and a true Canadian wilderness experience. Over 2000 lakes dot the landscape, many offering good fishing opportunities, and with almost 2 million acres of this lake-filled forest, one could spend a lifetime exploring the various nuances of the park.
The Backpacking & Hiking Trails of Algonquin
For the backpacker seeking a maintained trail system, there are a few areas that we can focus on. The two most convenient trail systems are on the western side of the park off Highway 60 which intersects the Park west to east.

A quiet sunset - backpacking in Algonquin Provincial Park
The Western Uplands Trail
The Western Uplands Trail will be your most remote option and provides 3 separate loops totaling nearly 70 miles of marked trail. Access the trail either from Highway 60, or from the Rain Lake access point on the northern end of the park which will require driving on a sometimes snowy and rough dirt road. This trail system will explore the terrain to the north of Highway 60.

Wherever you hit the trail in Algonquin, you'll find wooded trails and quiet hiking, interspersed with lakes and views along the way.
The Highland Trail
The Highland Trail access can be found by driving east on 60 just a few miles from the Western Uplands Trailhead. Here you’ll find a 21 mile trail system exploring the southern side of the Park. This trail is also popular for winter activities like snowshoeing. Backcountry campsites are used more heavily compared to some other backcountry areas in Algonquin in our experience.
Eastern Pines Trail
Quite some distance across the Park farther to the east you’ll find the Eastern Pines Trail, an 11 mile trail system. Whatever option you choose, register with the park at headquarters or at the Kearney permit office (if using the Rain Lake access point) prior to departing, as permits are required – about $12 per person per night. Before your trip obtain the backpacking trails map supplied by the Park, as the staff will need to know your planned itinerary and campsite selections.

A wintry backpacking trip on the Highland Backpacking Trail in Algonquin Provincial Park begins.
Algonquin Provincial Park Hiking Resources
Most literature that's out there is focused on canoeing the park, such as a Paddler's Guide to Algonquin Park. Another title worth looking at is The Explorer's Guide to Algonquin Park. Find a map of the park here.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 2 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

We were five days into a trek across Olympic National Park – at low elevation in mid-summer. Even though I was tired and about as cold as I think I've ever been, I was relishing the experience. I knew it was always the hard days that we remember most, and most of the days on this trip were hard. Really hard. And after this experience down at Cream Lake I knew I’d be able to tell a good story.
We also remember the beautiful days. Our ten-day journey – our own take on a traverse of the Bailey Range – along trails and backcountry from Lake Crescent in the north of Olympic National Park to the Quinault River Basin in the south fulfilled both the “hard” and “beautiful” criteria in spades.

The Bailey Range offers rugged terrain, challenging hiking, and rewarding views.
When my son entered the world in December 2013, I knew 2014 was going to be a particularly difficult year to find time for adventure. I wanted a hike that was accessible, challenging both physically and mentally, and yet with an authentic “remoteness.” Ideally the route would travel through varying types of terrain, and it needed to be at low elevation as the timeframe was just too short to acclimatize to anything over 10,000 feet and still enjoy it.
A Bailey Range Traverse Begins
A traverse of the Bailey Range in Olympic National Park seemed to fit the bill perfectly. I had done day hikes in the old growth forests of the park and had hiked most of the 70 miles or so of wilderness coastline and I was in love. I knew I needed to delve much deeper into this magical place.
The Bailey Range flanks Mt. Olympus, the tallest and most glaciated peak in the park. A classic traverse of the range leaves from the Sol Duc Trailhead, along trails up past Heart Lake and onto the High Divide. We wanted to extend the trip a bit, so decided to follow the first sections of the traverse as noted in Olympic Mountains: A Climbing Guide, the premier climbing/hiking book about the park. We’d take the Boulder Creek Trailhead to Boulder Lake and head backcountry from there to Appleton Pass and from Appleton Pass to Cat Basin before getting on the main portion of the Bailey Traverse. If time permitted, we hoped to finish by hiking the Skyline Ridge Trail instead of following the North Fork of the Quinault River down from the Low Divide.
Unfortunately, the Boulder Creek Trailhead was closed due to a major dam removal project, so we started from Lake Crescent. After some crazy rental car logistics and a bus trip we started late in the afternoon of August 29th.

On this trip we took and used a bear can as well as technical mountaineering gear, which combined added an additional five pounds and some bulk. That, along with ten days of food, made for a heavy pack and we were happy to make the first day a very short one. We had crossed over Barnes Creek on a 150-foot log bridge made from one single tree, and we camped next to the creek, surrounded by huge conifers and large leafy plants.
Day 2 and Into the Olympics
Day two involved a long climb of over 4,000 vertical feet up to the Aurora Ridge Trail to the Happy Lake Trail and finally to Boulder Lake. On our way up, as we reached about 4,000 feet of elevation, a layer of fog suddenly appeared in trees, unmoving, ghostlike, and magical.
We hadn’t seen a soul the entire day and when we got to Boulder Lake, we camped on a peninsula surrounded on three sides by steep walls. Before hitting the sack, we heard another couple come in but never laid eyes on them.

A Bailey Range traverse campsite.
Day 3: Slow Going
Day three was probably the most physically exhausting of the trip – and the slowest. Counting our break time, it took us nine hours to make it just six miles! Why so long? Were there technical sections, crazy river crossings and lots of vertical? Nope. There were blueberry bushes. Oh the deadly blueberry bushes.
We climbed up and down, over rocks and ridges, past beautiful lakes and eventually to the Appleton Pass Trail just south of Appleton Pass. The entire off-trail route was covered in blueberry bushes, and as it was misting all day, it was slick. There was very little purchase for our feet, and it was all sloped downhill. The heavy packs didn’t help things. We were happy to set up camp when we reached Appleton Pass.
Day 4: The Bailey Range Traverse Proper
The next morning we were treated to an incredible sunrise on the surrounding peaks. Knowing that we didn’t want a repeat of yesterday, and that we didn’t want to be done before even starting the actual traverse, we chose to take a slightly longer but significantly easier route using trails. We followed the Appleton Pass Trail down to the Sol Duc River Trail where we climbed up to Heart Lake. Just above and beyond Heart Lake is the turnoff to the High Divide Trail, where the traverse of the Bailey Range really begins.

From my understanding, the Civilian Conservation Corps created this trail before World War II. It follows along a ridge before skirting the edge of Cat Basin and then contours around Cat Peak. This trail is an incredible sight to behold as it’s cut right into a steep mountainside with the Hoh River Basin dropping dramatically to the south. Originally, the High Divide Trail was supposed to cross much of the Bailey Range and meet up with the trail at Dodger Point; however the project was abandoned at the beginning of WWII. Basically, the trail just ends at a drop-off and we had to climb up a very steep eroding way-trail for a few hundred feet to reach the shoulder of Cat Peak.
According to many hikers, the next section was the crux. We had to cross the Catwalk, a technical arête which crosses between Cat Peak and Mt. Carrie. Many people camp at Boston Charlie’s, which is a camp located on the far (east) side of the Catwalk. But visibility was dropping, rain was coming in and the wind was blowing hard. We decided to save the Catwalk for the next morning and set up camp on the shoulder of Cat Peak just above the Catwalk. We knew water would be hard to come by so we had carried numerous liters up from Heart Lake. It turned out to be an interesting night. First, just as Jevan and I were discussing the fact that we probably wouldn’t see anybody else now that we were hitting the more remote portion of the trip, out popped two hikers who were coming from the Catwalk. We came to find out that it was a father and son team, and after spending a long time trying to cross the Catwalk in deteriorating conditions, they decided to turn around and ended up camping next to us.
A Fifth Day in the Bailey Range
The beginning of day five started out sunny and beautiful. From our ridge we were afforded our first incredible views of Mt. Olympus across the Hoh River Valley to our south. Low clouds filled the valley and the gigantic Blue Glacier radiated the early morning sun. Thinking we finally had a perfect day, we took our time getting ready. That was probably not the wisest decision, as the clouds and wind started rolling in by 9am and the day turned out to be the roughest and most emotionally and psychologically draining of the trip.

The Catwalk began with a tricky traverse along the side of a ridge. The narrow trail fell away below. Once onto the arête, we had to make our way across some short but technical sections. Doing all this with a large pack made the going much tougher. The section was short but exhilarating and in less than 45 minutes from camp we were at Boston Charlie’s, which did indeed have water.
Even though the Bailey Range traverse is technically a route, not a trail, enough people do it that there is an informal path for some of the way. We followed it as it contoured along the side of Mt. Carrie. The wind was picking up and by 11am we had 100-foot visibility, sideways rain with a constant 30mph wind and no shelter to speak of as the route was almost entirely above timberline. The trail became increasingly difficult as it crossed steep, wet, unconsolidated gullies. The temperature was probably in the upper 30’s but the wind-chill and rain made it feel much, much colder.
Most people head down to Cream Lake. With limited visibility we continued contouring until the path petered out at a gully that was too steep to cross. Instead, we half walked, half butt-slid down a steep rocky streambed to a meadow and eventually to Cream Lake. During an extremely brief window when the rain stopped, we set up our tent on a gravel bar next to the lake.

Typical for the Pacific Northwest, our traverse of the Bailey Range featured its share of moisture that turned to ice with overnight temperatures.
Day 6
Luckily for us we woke to bright blue skies with a rapidly warming day. Our wet gear was coated with ice, and we put everything we owned out on the “beach” to dry. By noon we were finally feeling like ourselves again. We left Cream Lake around 1pm, thankful for a beautiful day and glad the last section was over.
We followed an inlet stream up the valley and came within one hundred feet of a big bear that was slowly ambling by. He didn’t seem to care much about us and walked on past. Soon after, we were stymied by a steep wall with no real idea of where to go. After following the wrong stream for a while, we were able to get back on route and followed a ridge up to Ferry Basin where we set up camp above treeline next to a beautiful alpine lake. The lake was surrounded by incredible wildflowers, and as sunset approached, the clouds flowed up the valley toward us. Just when we thought we were going to be stuck in the middle of a cloud for the night, the fog was sucked back down the valley as it took on the bright pink hue of dusk. It was as if the air itself was glowing while the mountains took a final breath for the evening.
Day 7: The Route Continues
We woke the next morning in the cold rocky moonscape and continued on our route. As the day wore on Mt. Olympus seemed so close we could touch it and eventually we set up camp on the edge of the Queets Basin at what was without a doubt our most beautiful (and windiest) campsite of the trip. We climbed a small peak just to our east and took in a stunning sunset. We could see the ocean down the Queets River Basin and beautiful alpenglow shone off the snow-covered patches on nearby peaks. Our first day without having seen another person (Jevan had spotted a hiker on a nearby peak a day earlier) we climbed into our sleeping bags satisfied that this day exceeded our expectations for beauty and adventure.

High alpine terrain on our Bailey Range traverse.
Day 8
Day eight began sunny as we climbed down to Dodwell-Rixon Pass and said goodbye to the Bailey Range and headed down the Elwha Snow Finger. In a typical normal or high snow year, or in early season, hikers can make quick progress as they scamper down on top of the thick snowpack that fills the valley even in late summer. After a dry spring and hot summer, the Snow Finger had withered away. We traversed the snowfield for a few hundred feet and then alternated going around on the steep banks, rock-hopping and moving quickly past a number of huge snow bridges.
A choke point in the river led to a steep scramble out of the valley and down to a meadow. We then bushwhacked through dense alders, waded across the river and finally reached the Elwha River Trail. We made quick progress down to Chicago Camp and up to the Low Divide.
A Hike of the Bailey Range Comes to a Close
We decided to finish by hiking the Skyline Ridge Trail. This was a last-second decision and we didn’t know anything about the trail. Luckily (or so we thought) we ran into a guy who had just come along that trail, gave us a bunch of beta and told us there was no water up to the high point, but plenty after that.
Unfortunately for us, Washington was experiencing the hottest days of the summer. We stopped for lunch near a small tarn not far from Lake Beauty. By the end of lunch, it must have been over 100 degrees and after struggling for another hour up exposed (to the sun) rock, we decided to take a mid-afternoon siesta. Starting out again around 5 o’clock, we were able to enjoy the strange rocky moonscape below Kimta Peak. We arrived at Kimta Peak just as the sun was setting, and we were treated to a magnificently multi-hued sky as we watched the glowing orb set over the Pacific Ocean.

We had already hiked about fifteen miles and were happy to do the final five mostly downhill to the Three Prune Campsite. Strangely, there had been plenty of water on the way up and we had carried too much. Having drunk most of it, however, we were glad to know there were plenty of water sources on the way down. For the first half mile along the ridge we had stunning, unobscured views to the west.
Once the ambient light had fled and we were cruising through forest, we both came to the realization that our helpful hiker had led us astray. He had mixed up his directions and there was no water to speak of. Very thirsty and tired, we raced down the trail. By the time we arrived at camp, we were so tired that all we could do was drink up and pass out. The next day was a leisurely stroll through beautiful old growth forests, past the Three Lakes Campsite and out to the car with lighter packs and even lighter hearts.
Need to Know
Information
Bear cans are required, but you can rent them very cheaply from the Olympic National Park ranger station (and they've got the lightweight Bearikades to use!). The higher portions of the route involve snowfield and possible glacier travel. You'll also need to get a backcountry permit and give your itinerary to the rangers before heading out.
Getting There
There are numerous places to start, but if you're going from the north, you can base your operations out of Port Angeles. There are supermarkets and outdoor gear stores as well as a ranger station. If you leave from Lake Crescent as we did, you can catch a public bus to the trailhead. The closest major airport is in Seattle and you'll probably want to take the ferry over to the Olympic Peninsula. There is no public transportation to the southern trailhead at either the North Fork Quinault River Trail or the Irely Lakes Trail just down the road so you'll need to drop a car or arrange for a pickup.
Best Time to Go
It depends on the year, but most hiking in the high alpine sections of the park have a short window from July through early September if you don't want to be dealing with much snow.
Maps and Books
I used Caltopo.com to print my own maps on waterproof paper. I also carried the National Geographic Trails Illustrated map of Olympic National Park and I used a phone app on my smartphone, which allows you to download detailed topo maps prior to your trip and utilize the GPS functionality of your phone without cell service. For books see Olympic Mountains: A Climbing Guide. For a more general guidebook on the park, see Hiking Olympic National Park.
Editor's Note: This article Eli Burakian originally appeared in an online magazine form in TrailGroove Magazine and has been republished here.