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Every backpacker should have a slightly miserable trek just once in their life. Nothing extreme – just one with a bit of good-old fashioned discomfort. Maybe a rock under a sleeping bag, or a slightly damp boot during a section of a hike – it’s during those moments of less than easy explorations that the true value of the little amenities becomes evident, and much more appreciated. The small bits taken for granted on daily basis are sincerely cherished on the trail. That being said, there is no reason that trekking should equate to trudging. Just as a few discomforts can change perspective; it rings equally true of comforts on the trail.

A few extra lightweight luxuries can make an incredible and positive difference in your backpacking experience! While not essential, these optional extras are easy ways to pack a bit of added comfort into the backcountry.
Camp Shoes
Hiking boots and trail runners are great for their purpose, but sometimes not the best bet for comfort at the end of the day. Any hiker who has experienced the blissful feeling of removing a well-used boot knows the almost unintentional groan of satisfaction that accompanies the action. While it’s perfectly reasonable and effective to rely solely on the shoes you hike in, bringing a light weight set of slippers or sandals to wear around camp provides freedom for your feet. Crocs are a light, durable option, but any kind of easy to slip in to model works – even foam sandals from the drug store work great. Zpacks offers an ultralight camp shoe option, and the foam Croc option has been a traditional standard. Strapped on to the outside of a pack, they are a light and easy addition. They’re particularly appreciated if your hiking footwear gets wet during a hike.
A High Temperature Water Bottle
Everyone has their favorite bottle, and the market abounds with options. While the main purpose may be to hold water for drinking, a durable, well-shaped bottle can be an added element to comfort as well. One of the best things about a bottle tolerant of high temperatures is its ability to hold boiling water. On colder nights, and with enough fuel to spare, fill one with boiled water, crawl into your sleeping bag, and snuggle up with your bottle buddy – no more fro-toes (frozen toes). Insulated by your bag, a dependable bottle will stay hot for hours.

An added bonus – in the morning, you have pre-boiled and warmer ready to drink water! The Nalgene water bottle has long been a forerunner in the bottle race and even with admirable competition, and its size and functionality are proven components to its success. If the wide mouth seems bothersome, ones with smaller mouths are available, as well as attachable guards which funnel the water to a smaller opening. If that's not enough, you can even pick one in your favorite color.
A Salty-Sweet Treat
Of course there’s the classic GORP, but if you’ve ever coveted a 5-dollar candy bar, take this as your excuse to splurge on your lust. Go for that one that contains maple encrusted bacon, or caramelized pecans, or elven magic – whatever ingredients really make you salivate. On a recent trek, a hiker brought a salted toffee dark chocolate bar and for nearly two hours – and then sporadically throughout the rest of the trip – we found ways to discuss its epicness. Whether it comes in the form of chocolate or some other kind of special treat, the salty-sweet combination is oh so appreciated, and oh so much more delicious after a 6 hour hike.
A Backcountry Café
Coffee in the morning hours just makes everyone friendlier. Melitta or similar cone-shaped coffee makers are lightweight and simple to use. Pack one up with a pre-measured ration of ground coffee, and as many filters as needed. If space is an issue, there are traveling editions made of soft, flexible plastic for more compact traveling.

If coffee’s not your thing, hot chocolate or tea bags are light and welcome warmers. Bring along some dried creamer and a bit of sugar, and you could practically label your camp an experimental micro-café.
A Pen and Paper / A Notebook
There are always practical uses to bringing paper on the trail, but in this particular pull for its inclusion, the entertainment value is the tout: Games, writing, and drawing to name a just few possibilities. Do you sketch for fun? No? Well, with a few hours lounging at camp, now’s the time. It’s fun!

Same with poetry, writing or a poorly played hangman. You never know, though, maybe those jotted sentences or thoughts will be the first lines to your great literary masterpiece.
Spices
Ah spices. If hard pressed, spices might rank as the most appreciated extra when backpacking or camping. While the main priority of food is to provide the necessary energy and balance of nutrients, having it taste good is a highly valued bonus! Spices are the easiest way to pump up the flavor profiles – salt alone makes a huge difference.

The possibilities here are endless: cinnamon, pepper, pesto powder, ground ginger, and so many more. Being so light, having variety doesn’t mean weighing you down. Just be sure to label that sugar clearly from that salt. Even in the surrounded by beautiful wilderness, that accidental switcheroo is no fun. Find more on packing backpacking spices here.
A Riddle
This one could be a freebie! Playing cards and similar packable outdoor games are great for the campsite, but while hiking, riddles can be fun forms of entertainment when the trek feels a bit more like a trudge. Though every hiker wishes they could say they hike in constant awe of nature, but there are always those more monotonous stretches, after other conversation has been exhausted, when you simply want to take your mind off your tired feet. Having a go-to riddle is an easy way to provide some distraction, and packing up a few for longer treks can continue to fuel the fun factor. And obviously, the only added weight is your brain mass. Don’t leave it behind.
A Change of Clothes in the Car
Returning to the parked car after a decently long backpacking trip, to realize you have a nice clean wardrobe change in the car will never become old. Nothing fancy, but a pair of sweatpants and a fresh smelling shirt are always well-received – particularly if the ride home from the trailhead is longer than 30 minutes. It’s a secret to be shared: the value of cleanliness to a weary traveler.

Packing light can be paramount for longer treks, but even with all these additions, you won’t weigh down your pack. The delight experienced from these small comforts will feel far, far greater than the ½ pound or so you might cumulatively add. So go, frolic, explore and adventure – but no harm in bringing a bit of cozy to that backcountry.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 8 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

Unique among the seasons, winter wields the power to make many hiking destinations inaccessible. Roads are gated due to snow, mountain passes become snowbound and hazardous, and specific four-season gear is required in many regions for those venturing out in the winter months. Human-powered recreation is mostly left to snowshoers, skiers, snowboarders, and winter is also a good time to focus on cleaning gear, summer trip planning, fitness routines, racking up vacation time, and other hobbies. Getting away to a warmer locale for a few days or a week also doesn’t hurt if you’re able to accommodate the expense of time and money.

In winter, places inherently seem to become more remote.
The Wilderness of Winter
Winter also has the singular ability to bring a feeling of wilderness and raw nature to places that feel mundane, even boring, in other seasons. Many of the bumpy and potholed forest roads flanked by endless lodgepole pines that are merely tolerated on drives to the trailhead in the summer become the proverbial “winter wonderland” with the addition of a few feet of snow. Putting on the cross-country skis and heading up one of these roads for a few miles to a scenic overlook that merited only a glance out the window before driving further a few months before becomes an expedition to a breathtaking picnic spot. A cabin that you could drive to in June is transformed into a rustic outpost where you can sit in quintessential tranquility and watch snow fall while a woodstove heats the tiny structure.

Favorite trails suddenly take on an Arctic charm that highlights the rock and water features, especially when the water turns to ice. Animal tracks left in the snow can be examined with a clarity rarely provided in typical dirt patches on the trail. The play of light and reflections of the sun off the snow make for near-mystical conditions.
Seeing Stars
If you have the gear and experience to safely and comfortably do overnight trips in the winter months, the stargazing is incredible. The skies are can be exceedingly clear and the stars come out much earlier compared to the summer months. As long as you have the gear to stay comfortable in periods of inactivity in cold conditions, you can fit in some amazing stargazing between dinner and a reasonable bedtime. If you’re staying in a cabin or other structure, such as a lookout, you can head back inside to warm up, make some tea or hot chocolate, and head back out with your beverage in an insulated water bottle if you've brought one along. The sky will be darker, the stars shining brighter, and you’ll be warmer. This back-and-forth can go on as long as your eyes stay open and the rewards always seem to be worth pushing through the sleepiness.

With the right gear, backpacking in winter offers solitude and quiet reflection.
Hot Springs, Water, and Winter Views
If you’re lucky enough to live in a region with natural hot springs, visiting these in the winter can be a luxury almost impossible to describe. Sitting in hot tub-warm water, rich with minerals, and watching a frigid river run beneath snow-draped trees is a surefire way to put a smile on your face. The juxtaposition between the harsh and benevolent characteristics of nature are visibly, and physically, apparent.
Hot springs that would be crowded in the shoulder-season months due to their proximity roads and parking areas become much less visited. An easy stroll in the summer suddenly becomes a 1/4 mile epic in winter, requiring snowshoes and proper clothing to be comfortable in frigid temperatures until you’re able to immerse yourself in the water. As expected, however, the reward feels much richer and well-deserved.

For hikers who live in a region absent of the geothermal phenomenons that are required for hot springs but with sustained subfreezing temperatures, winter often presents the opportunity to see frozen waterfalls. Visiting a gushing waterfall in May and then returning in January to see it frozen from top to bottom provides a sublime comparison. In regions with dense ridgetop deciduous forests, such as many Eastern forests, the views in winter are much grander than in summer. Trails that have the “green tunnel” effect suddenly become much more open and the shadows and shapes created by the bare tree limbs become a spectacle in and of themselves.

Certain “life list” destinations are at their most hospitable and enjoyable in the winter months. Big Bend National Park, Everglades National Park and Dry Tortugas National Park come to mind in this regards. Backpacking on Cumberland Island National Seashore in December is a particular treat – the crowds are low, the weather is mild, and the citrus trees are ripe. There’s something beautiful about getting to a campsite, setting down the pack, and picking an orange or grapefruit to enjoy with your oatmeal the next morning.
Final Thoughts on Hiking in Winter
While the coming of spring is an occasion for celebration, especially for those of us who reside in the northerly latitudes, winter has its merits. It offers a chance for skills to be honed, inimitable adventures to be had – such as moonlit cross-country skiing, familiar places to be experienced in a different atmosphere. If you weren’t able to appreciate the opportunities for solitude this past season, you’ll have a summer full of hiking to look forward to and plenty of time to plan for when the snow flies again.
For a detailed article on the "how to" of experiencing the outdoors in winter with many tips along the way, check out this Issue 26 article courtesy of @PaulMags.

Zion National Park is one of my favorite national parks, and for good reason: there are amazing views, beautiful cliffs and streams, abundant photography opportunities, and wonderful hikes. The park has several well-known popular hikes – The Subway, Zion Narrows, and Angel’s Landing for example – but there are some other shorter or lesser known hikes that are also well worth your while. I have made a couple of short visits as part of my mountain biking and hiking trips over the past two years, and these two hikes stand out as favorites. Both are relatively short and have breathtaking views.

Looking out from the alcove along the Canyon Overlook Trail in Zion National Park
Hiking the Canyon Overlook Trail in Zion
A very short hike, by most hiker’s standards, Canyon Overlook Trail is just a half-mile long well-maintained route. It is quite popular, so solitude is not usually part of the experience here. The trail starts off with a climb up rock steps leading past a “bonsai” tree and along a cliff edge high above the Pine Creek Slot Canyon. The trail has handrails in places to protect sightseeing tourists from falling to their doom while gazing at the amazing scenery. The main rock that forms the massive cliffs of the park is of early Jurassic age (about 180 million years old) Navajo sandstone, a formation that was laid down in a vast sand dune field covering much of what we now call the Colorado Plateau. The sand is cross-bedded, showing the layers of the dunes as they shifted and blew across the area. With this thick formation now exposed to wind, water, and freeze-thaw cycles, the rock has been eroded into fantastic shapes, exposing the layers and colors.

Along the hike to the canyon overlook there is a section of the trail which passes under an overhanging rock that forms a small cave-like alcove, plus hanging gardens with plants growing on the vertical rock faces and a bridge suspended above the canyon. Arriving at the end, the views open up and you are treated to a view toward the west, where you can see the massive (over 2,000 foot high) orange, pink, and cream-colored cliff walls of the main Zion Canyon. Visible from the overlook are peaks with names such as Bridge Mountain, The West Temple, Towers of the Virgin, Altar of Sacrifice, The Streaked Wall, and The Sentinel. It took my group of four mountain bikers about an hour to complete the hike (on foot) while taking plenty of photos.

The Canyon Overlook (left) and Many Pools (right) hikes in Zion offer stunning scenery and relatively easy hiking.
Many Pools Hike in Zion
Another short, but lesser-known hike on the east side of Zion National Park is along a canyon known unofficially as “Many Pools.” This hike is not along established trails, but instead follows a fairly wide drainage that rises to the north. On my visit, we hiked just under a mile up the canyon and gained about 600 feet of elevation by the upper end. We could have continued further, but we were running out of time for this day. Views from all along this canyon are spectacular in every direction. On the hike, you pass several of the pools or potholes, which are places where the flowing water has eroded the Navajo sandstone and formed low areas where water collects. We saw several of these pools filled with water, and some that were dried up when we were there in May of 2022. There were even a few tadpoles in a couple of the pools.

To the sides of the wash, there are interesting hoodoo formations, as well as areas with several different colors of rock and lots of cross-bedding. Hiking is mostly easy, with only a few areas where you will need to bushwhack through low shrubs and trees and a couple steeper places that are easily climbed over or around. This is an excellent hike in east Zion, and took my group less than two hours to finish. It’s an excellent spot that is less busy than many other trails in Zion, and affords you with stellar views of the eastern part of the park.

Looking south from the upper part of the canyon (Many Pools).
Final Thoughts
There are many other hikes in Zion, but these two are fairly easy and show you a good example of the geology and scenery of the eastern part of the park. Utah offers countless hiking opportunities and one can spend many years exploring the various corners of the state. As far as views go, in my opinion, you can’t beat Zion National Park, and the two hikes mentioned here are an excellent introduction to the views and experience the park has to offer.
Need to Know
Information
No permit is required for these hikes. There are certain other hikes in the park which DO require permits. The park has an entry fee of $35 for private vehicles, or you can purchase an annual national park pass for $80. For more hiking and backpacking ideas in Zion, see our TrailFinder Page with links to all of our previous TrailGroove Zion articles and find even more by searching for Zion here.
Getting There
Parking for the Canyon Overlook Trailhead is just east of the eastern end of Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. Parking is limited to two small parking areas and a few roadside spots, but we had to wait only a few minutes (we were there around 8:00 am on May 1st) for a hiker to return from their hike and vacate their parking spot. During busy times of the day, it may be necessary to return several times to get a space.
For Many Pools, parking is at a small parking area less than one mile to the east of the eastern tunnel along Zion-Mount Carmel Highway on the eastern side of the park. There is an outhouse at this parking lot. From the parking lot, walk east along the road (be careful as the shoulders are very narrow) for about 500 feet, then cross to the western side of the road. From there, you will descend into the lower end of Many Pools Canyon. The hike continues to the north up the drainage.
Best Time to Go
For the Canyon Overlook Trail, morning is best for photography, as the view is to the west and the canyon walls will be well-lit during the morning. Sunset may be another good time if clouds are just right, but the canyon will be in shadow then.
Any time of day would be good for photography at Many Pools, as the views from Many Pools Canyon are mainly to the south. The hike would be most interesting after there has been sufficient rain to fill the potholes, but it would be a good hike at any time of the year. In summer, try to avoid the hottest part of the day, as it is quite exposed to the sun.
Maps and Books
The National Geographic Trails Illustrated Zion National Park map is a great general map of the park. Canyon Overlook Trail is shown on the map, but Many Pools is not. Trails Illustrated also offers a Zion Day Hikes map and the Utah Delorme Atlas can be helpful for getting to and from trailheads and exploring the rest of the state. For a guidebook on the area, see Best Easy Day Hikes, Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks as well as Hiking Zion and Bryce Canyon.

For many backpackers, thru-hiking a major long trail just isn’t a realistic option. Not everyone can pause life, quit their job, and leave their family and friends behind for half a year to hike a long trail. Even if they could, not everyone has the mental and/or physical stamina to enjoy such an arduous task over multiple months. Maybe you’re an aspiring to thru-hiker, but feel like you need more experience before committing to such a long endeavor. If you fall into any of these categories, or maybe have put the idea of thru-hiking on the back burner, I’m here to tell you that there is still a complete thru-hike experience out there for you! The 173 mile Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) is the perfect solution!

To give an idea of my perspective, I’ve hiked over 10,000 miles along long distance trails, and the 173 miles spent on the TRT are some of the most memorable. Having already experienced hiking’s Triple Crown (Pacific Crest Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Appalachian Trail), I can honestly say that I came into the TRT a bit jaded with few expectations. My impression of the TRT was that it would be a redundant walk around the same lake for a week or two. Fifty miles of which, I’d already done as it overlaps with the Pacific Crest Trail. I planned the TRT (with two friends of mine from the area) more to fill time between two other long hikes, and was more excited about spending time with my friends than the trail itself. Don’t get me wrong, I knew it would be fun because I love backpacking, but I didn’t expect it to be as great as it was. What a wonderful surprise!

The 173 mile Tahoe Rim Trail offers the opportunity for a shorter thru-hiking adventure.
Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) Logistics & Hiking Overview
To start off, there are many pros to the TRT for logistical purposes. As a loop hike, it’s simple to park at a trailhead and return to that same trailhead at the end of the hike. No shuttle is needed, but there are also public transit options if you are not using a vehicle. If something happens and a hiker needs to exit sooner than planned, there are many exit points that will eventually lead to frequently used trailheads and a possible hitch from day hikers, mountain bike riders, or equestrians. Another unique advantage of the TRT is that many access points also allow for caching of water (and food if needed) in stretches that are relatively dry with significant gaps between water sources. All of this access to civilization, and yet the trail still provides a great balance with solitude and scenery. Perfect for someone testing out their thru-hiking skills for the first time.
Our Hike on the TRT Day by Day
What follows is a brief overview of each day of our hike to get a feel for this as a thru-hike and why I recommend it. By the end of the hike, we (myself aka Wired and my friends Christy aka Rockin’ and Nancy aka Why Not) felt like we had experienced a microcosm of what we do on a long trail over multiple months. It was wonderful! Note a few things. Mileage is included as a reference, but not recommended for all hikers. Each hiker should do mileage that in their personal comfort range. Even as a conditioned thru-hiker, I’d have enjoyed a slower pace to really take this trail in more completely. We chose to go counterclockwise and begin at the Kingsbury South Trailhead. This would allow us to see more PCT hikers by hiking against the grain when the two paths overlap. There are multiple trailheads to access the trail. It’s all up to personal preference where you choose to start/end and which direction you choose to go. We started fairly early in the season on June 2nd on a low snow year, so it may not be advisable to start that early on in other years with a higher snowpack.

The Tahoe Rim Trail keeps things interesting and takes hikers through scenery that's always changing.
Day 1: Oh How I’ve Missed You (10.1 miles)
After having just spent a couple months along the Hayduke Trail in the desert of S Utah and N Arizona, it was like a reawakening to be on the Tahoe Rim Trail. Fresh air, a cool light breeze, a beautifully winding blazed trail, amazingly large trees, and a reunion with good friends. We even got a glimpse across Lake Tahoe at what lied ahead with some snowcapped mountains.
Day 2: Lakeview Hiking (23.5 miles)
A day of beautiful views of Lake Tahoe to our west as we hiked high above the lake (most the trail is well above the lake) on the east side. One of my favorite views of the hike was a ridge walk along North Canyon with views of Lake Tahoe and Marlene Lake. Expansive views with low lying clouds in the distance that would build over the next 24hrs. Off a friend’s recommendation, we took a side trip to Sand Harbor Overlook. Well worth the effort for that view at the end of the day!
Day 3: Rockin’ Gets Her Wish (20.2 miles)
Threatening clouds had moved in overnight and loomed all morning as we descended to the flower filled Tahoe Meadows. Rockin’ mentioned that she’d like a bit more of a challenge on this hike given the wonderfully clear trail we’d been on thus far. Well, she got it as we climbed to the highest peak on the TRT, Relay Peak at 10,301ft. Temps dropped and snow fell as we hit snow covered trail that had yet to melt from the winter. It was like we entered a magical winter mountain expedition for a brief period before dropping back down to snow free trail.

Some areas still had remaining snowpack from the previous winter.
Day 4: Of Course We Did! (31.1 miles)
We awoke knowing that we were 31.1mi from our resupply location of Tahoe City, which the trail goes right through and the one point where the trail goes down to Lake Tahoe. There was quite a bit of wooded hiking with a gradual descent. The pull of a hotel room, a restaurant meal, and shower motivated us to make the miles in time for dinner. It was glorious in only the way a meal at the end of a 31 mile day can be.
Day 5: This Is the Life! (9.7 miles)
A relaxed return to trail after a half day in town and taking in the atmosphere at a quiet and clear Tahoe City Marina. The less populated trail is a bonus for hiking early in the season. One of those days that feels free, relaxed, and calm. With full packs, we began the climb back up into the woods and rain began to fall. We got our tents up in a sheltered area just as an earth shaking thunderstorm blew through for brief periods before bed. Just awesome!
Day 6: Returning HOME (21.4 miles)
The day we all were excited about! We started our 50 mile overlap with the Pacific Crest Trail! Before hitting that intersection, we took a side trip to scramble to the summit of Twin Peaks, a highlight of the hike. All of us have completed the PCT and this was like returning HOME. We talked to countless thru-hikers and reminisced on our respective days through this section.
Day 7: Stupendous & Serendipitous (18.9 miles)
One of my all time favorite days ever on trail..heck ever in life! Sometimes the trail is just magical. We spent the morning hiking through the Desolation Wilderness while still overlapping with the PCT. We were transported to an abundance of alpine lakes reflecting granite peaks with snow on top. Temperatures were the warmest of the entire hike – in the 80s – and that made for some welcoming dips in the lakes and streams. An amazing number of coincidences happened the second half of the day that had us, not only hiking the most beautiful section if the TRT, but also experiencing some true trail magic.

We were unexpectedly hosted by old trail friends that happened to be staying at Echo Summit Lodge. Dinner was made by a world famous chef, and we were invited to stay the night. Even more magical, as the evening wore on, we discovered how many of our paths had unknowingly crossed years ago, and how serendipitous life can be. We were definitely where we were meant to be that night!
Day 8: Nice Climbs & Fun Finds (17.9 miles)
Coming off the high of the previous day, we were gliding. We saw many more PCTers in our final miles overlapping the PCT. After forking off the PCT, we dipped down into a forested area where we surprisingly found ourselves surrounded by treasure in the form of morel mushrooms! At $40/lb these are a rare find and they were in abundance around us given the unique conditions of cold damp weather. Why Not found a whole new use for her mosquito head net as she collected quite the loot of morels. Note, that it is legal to pick small amounts of morels along many areas of the TRT and as long as they are not being sold for commercial use.

The final day would be defined by fog and wet weather.
Day 9: Socked Ending (22.3 miles)
The final day ended in deep fog. A viewless, yet mystical ending, that seemed fitting after having experienced almost every type of weather. It was really unique to experience a day that felt like fall in the Northwest, when it was early June and we had been in 80 degree heat just two days prior in the Desolation Wilderness swimming in alpine lakes. Much of the trail that day was in a forested area and made for quite nice scenery, but we did miss out on one particularly great view at the pass near Freel Peak. Looks like I have yet another great reason to return to do this hike again!

The Tahoe Rim Trail holds its challenges, but the rewards made the effort worth it.
Final Thoughts on the Tahoe Rim Trail
As I said before, I’ve hiked thousands of miles, and the Tahoe Rim Trail ranks up there with some of the best. It’s remarkable what we experienced in just the 9 days that we took to hike the trail. I think I could hike this trail multiple times and get vastly different experiences each time. The TRT is unique in providing such a variety of experiences and scenery while also being a trail that both beginner and veteran hikers would greatly enjoy. There are definitely challenges to face with terrain, elevation, weather, and water, but the TRT is one of those trails where the rewards definitely make the challenges worth facing. A highly recommended trail for day hiking, biking, thru-hiking, section-hiking, and horseback riding. Enjoy!
Hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT): Need to Know
Information
Head over to www.tahoerimtrail.org for links to resources and more information on the Tahoe Rim Trail. Pay attention to days when mountain bikers are allowed on trail, and plan your hiking schedule to avoid them if possible. There is a schedule on the TRT website of which days specific sections are open to mountain bikers as well as hikers. With melting snow and lakes along the way, be armed to defend against mosquitoes during those weeks that they tend to multiply once the snow melts off. Also, look into where the waterless stretches are if you think you’ll need to cache water along these notoriously dry sections.
Permits/Reservations
The two permits needed to hike the Tahoe Rim Trail are a Campfire Permit and a Desolation Wilderness Permit. Information on obtaining those permits can be found on the TRT website.
Best Time to Go
The most ideal window for thru-hiking the Tahoe Rim Trail most years is July-September. Check snow levels if going during the shoulder months.
Maps & Books
There are multiple maps and guidebooks available. Some are listed at the TRT website above including some free ones available for download. A summary of top resources for the trail includes:
Tom Harrison's Tahoe Rim Trail Map Trails Illustrated Tahoe Rim Trail Map 1013 Tahoe Rim Trail Pocket Atlas The Tahoe Rim Trail: The Official Guide for Hikers, Mountain Bikers, and Equestrians The Author
Erin “Wired” Saver is a long distance backpacking blogger that has hiked over 10,000 miles since 2011 including hiking’s Triple Crown (Pacific Crest Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Appalachian Trail).
Editor's Note: This article by Erin "Wired" Saver originally appeared in Issue 27 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

On this trip, I was able to return to Canyonlands National Park, but this time stayed on the opposite side of the river from the Maze to join up with Ted Ehrlich and Christy who drove in from Colorado to backpack through Salt Creek Canyon and the Needles.

The Needles offer a near endless array of unique rock formations to find and routes to explore.
Backpacking Into the Needles
Our respective drives late on a Thursday night resulted in a noon-ish start from the Cathedral Butte trailhead the next day after shuttling a vehicle. The weather was slightly sketchy, overcast with what looked like rain in the distance and a brisk wind reminded you that spring wasn’t yet in full swing. However, once we dropped off the top of the butte and into the Salt Creek drainage we escaped the wind and settled into hiking the easy 12 or so miles we’d planned for the day…or so we thought. This early in the season, the earliest signs of spring were just starting to show themselves, and at many points along the way it was fairly apparent that others had been here before, some not so recently.




Following the drainage downstream it soon became apparent that we weren’t making the progress that we should have been making. Ted and I cross checked maps and found that there was a mileage discrepancy – with the map we’d been referencing underreporting the trail mileage. In the end it took us much longer than expected to reach our goal for the day, the Salt/Horse Zone for which we had obtained our backpacking permit. 6 hours of expected hiking ended up being more like 9, and headlamps on, we filtered water, found a spot to setup camp, and ate dinner before retiring for the night. I tried to stay up and read a while, but actually woke up in my tent some time later during the early morning hours, headlamp still on.

Desert wash in the Needles
Hiking to Higher Ground
We continued following the drainage downstream on day 2 to Peekaboo, where we turned west and started climbing to higher ground – sometimes via unexpected ladders. Here there was no trail, only cairns, and the views didn't disappoint. Sunset found us still a few miles from our reserved site, and once again we found and setup camp after dark. It would be our last night, and with long drives home the next day we planned to wake up early in hopes of squeezing in one last side trip prior to trip’s end.




A cross country route through the Needles.
A Canyonlands Needles District Hike Comes to a Close
Soon after 7 A.M. the next day we all managed to pack up and put in a few extra miles, climbing to Druid Arch. After admiring the arch for a few minutes and snapping a few photos, we then reversed course on the out and back trail that leads to the arch and made it back to the other car…crowds increasing along the way…parked at Elephant Hill by noon. With 40+ miles down and a lot of it in soggy shoes from hiking through Salt Creek, it was nice to rest my feet. An hour later we parted ways back at Cathedral Butte, and I drove north anxious to make it home shortly after dark. A snowstorm near the border of Utah and Wyoming thwarted that attempt however, and at one point I found myself crawling along in a strange mix of fog and snow in the mountains after dark at 5mph.
Great scenery and hiking, sand in my shoes and snow under the tires at some point – what's starting to seem like par for the course on a typical trip to Utah in spring.
Backpacking the Needles: Need to Know
Best Time to Go
Spring and fall are the best times to explore Canyonlands to avoid summer heat and winter weather.
Getting There
From Moab, drive south on U.S. 191 39.7 miles to UT-211. Head mostly west towards Canyonlands National Park. The turn off for the dirt Beef Basin / 107 road leading to Cathedral Butte is 20.3 miles on the south side of the road. When we were there, the road to Cathedral Butte was easily passable for 2WD passenger cars but conditions may vary. The Cathedral Butte Trailhead and parking area will be about 17.2 miles down this road on your right. Continuing west on 211 past the turnoff for the road leading to Cathedral Butte 14.2 miles will get you to the visitor center, and another 6 miles, the last couple on a narrow dirt road, will get you to the Elephant Hill parking area.
Information
Permits start at $36 and can be reserved online here – individual designated sites as well as some zone camping is available. Effective May 1st, 2014, hard sided bear resistant food containers (check out our BearVault BV450 review if needed!) are required for backpackers in the Upper Salt Creek and Salt/Horse Zones. No fee is required to access Cathedral Butte, but the other end of our shuttle required entering Canyonlands National Park to access the Elephant Hill parking area and requires an entrance fee in addition to your backpacking permit. Be sure to stop by the visitor center for an update on water conditions. If you get in late like we did, camping is available just outside the park at Hamburger Rock. More information can be found on Canyonland's Needles Page.
Maps
We used Trails Illustrated Map #311 and 210, though be aware that the mileages shown on the map from Cathedral Butte to Peekaboo weren’t entirely accurate (per National Geographic, this will be updated in future versions). Delorme’s Utah Atlas and Gazetteer can also be helpful for getting to and from the trailhead and hike planning. National Geographic also offers their Canyonlands Map Pack set.